wozza

This video shows the issue with the thread leaking: How to fix wash basin waste leak for good How to seal waste. - YouTube If the new plumber did not seal the thread then do not keep his number.

Its hard to see much from your video - the leak wont be where its dripping - it will be somewhere else and tracking to the point where it drips. Is that a shed load of silicone bodged on the waste thread? Wastes can leak water (around) through the thread around the nut - its a common problem - I would be checking: if there is a seal between the waste nut and the sink and then Is there something to seal the thread on the waste where the nut currently is?

If you are having a Quooker then you need a waste pipe - as PeterW has said they have a pressure outlet that is plumbed into a drain pipe. I doubt that a Sink trap connected to a pipe through a sound proof wall would be a concern or allow enough noise transfer to warrant concern - is the wall sound proofed for a specific reason and how is it sound proofed?

It should be ok - just ensure that you hold the window when you release the chain as it will swing open / shut. I would hold the window, release the chain, operate the bar, then reconnect the chain and try it. How did you get it into that position? the chain releases the lock before opening the window in normal operation.

You will need to disengage the chain - you should then be able to operate the bar by hand.

Looks good, but I would be worried about the glass end panel - on mine I have a cross brace that comes from the other brace you have.

Where are you based? We used a company called Solus - they have two showrooms, London and Birmingham.

Have you tried a reset - there is a small reset button (hole) in the battery box that needs to be pressed for 8 seconds to reset the window.

Touch wood, mine have all been fine - are they the 240v version? There was a thread a while back, someone had some problems with them getting too warm so he made his own vented surrounds.

Do this, or depending on the age they may have quick release connectors on them. I would be tempted to try some Tikkurila Anti Reflex 2 paint on that ceiling.

I have used a lot of Tikkurila Anti Reflex on ceilings and it is IMHO the best ceiling paint I have used - it is super flat matt - I have also used a lot of Optiva 5 on the walls (6 different colours) and again I rate it as very good.

I would be interested in any answers to this as I am considering doing the opposite. I have lived in my house for 20 years, I want to remove everything form the loft, remove the boards and insulate to a good depth. - My trusses are of a similar size.

I used one of these on each of my trays: No More Leaks Bath & Shower Sealing Kit - YouTube

Sorry but that trim / seal is nasty. Do you really need it?

If using an MF system, you can make your own hangers to whatever length you want. Have a look at MF Ceiling systems - plenty of videos out there and its easy to do. I have three voids, 1 is about 80mm, 1 is about 50mm both on vaulted ceilings and the other isn't really a void as such- I just used the sections (MF5s I think they are) with plastic spacers / packers to counter batten / level the underside of a ceiling that had uneven joists so its now nice and level