wozza

We had ours fitted in 2011 - they cost a lot - but they have paid for themselves and we now earn clear profit (from the FiT payments) - We had a 4KW system fitted and receive around £2100 a year in payments (our FiT is around 54p a KW - now you only get around 4p We also manage how we use the free generated electric - we tend to put the washing machine, dishwasher etc on timer so they run whilst we are at work - using free electric that would otherwise just be fed back into the grid. I believe that you have until the 31st March to sign up for FiT payments as they are ending the scheme.

So, just looked at the Main Fuse at the meter and its marked up as 100A and also as 80Amp by a sticker (See the Pic) We did have a new meter a few years back so I am assuming that they changed the 100A fuse for an 80A fuse. So should I ask the electrician to fit a 80A fuse or 60A fuse in the new switch?

Thanks to everyone for your great replies and advice Could anyone advise on suitable master switches?

Thanks Dave. just to clarify, It will definitely be an electrician who does the work, and the disruption is inevitable as we are extending upwards and converting the garage to a bedroom. The supply / meter box is on the outside wall, it feeds through a hole into the garage and up to the CU in the garage - the cables then go off inside the garage roof space in various directions to feed the house. The extension is going above the garage and also converting the garage to a ground floor bedroom, so the plan is to move the CU along the wall by about 8 meters, the cables to supply the house from it will then be in between the floors.

Sorry its a TN CS (Marked up as P.M.E)

Standard 240v mains supply. Earthing I believe is 6mm, it was replaced a few years ago.

Hi All, Our current consumer unit (also the solar inverter) is in the garage , which will soon be converted to a bedroom, so SWMBO has asked if the consumer unit and the solar inverter can be moved into the utility. No problems with the inverter as its just a couple of cables, but the CU would be around 8 meters from its current location. I have not spoken to the electrician yet but wanted to try and understand what it involves / requires before I do so that I am better armed when I do. I have a few questions, and as I have only a basic knowledge that I have gained from reading threads here and the tinternet, so please feel free to correct me. 1, If moving the CU more than 3 meters from the meter then I need protection for the cable, which would be better, a fused switch or a RCD? (it will be housed in the external meter cupboard) or is either fine? 2, Some of the existing cables will probably not reach the new location and they cant be replaced, what would be the best way to join them (Wagos in a box, Junction boxes? something else?) 3, I was thinking of getting a High Integrity CU so that "Mission Critical" (not my term) appliances such as the alarm, smoke alarm, freezer etc would go on their own RCBOs with everything else split across dual RCDs. (I have read that some people put smoke alarms etc on the same circuit as lights so you would easily find out if the rcd has tripped, but I have had bulbs blow before that have tripped the RCD) - Any thoughts on this and what mission critical items to have on the RCBOs 4, Any recommendations or brands to avoid for the consumer unit etc (currently liking a Wylex NMX High Integrity Unit) 5, Apart from the height, does the CU need any considerations, for where it is mounted? Please feel free to add anything that I have missed, Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Joe

Can you tell me the manufacturer? I am researching now as much as possible ready for my new door.

They now use a 2 screw cover and 2 x 1.5 volt AA Batteries.

Can you give me some details on the door? Manufacturer, Supplier etc. I will be needing one soon. Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Russell.

When I say open cavity, I mean that it is intended to be closed with a cavity closer that would normally be hidden by the door frame. But if I fit the door behind the opening then the cavity closer will be seen / exposed to the elements.

Hi All, On my extension plans the wall for my garage is showing an open cavity (Brick and Block wall) in the opening for the garage door. I presume that this would normally be finished with a cavity closer and then the door fitted in the opening. However I may want to fit the door behind the opening to allow for extra headroom (Insulated Roller Door) Is it possible to close the cavity if I fit the door behind the opening without creating a cold bridge? Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Russell. Off to look for Led Panels now.