wozza

Thanks Joe

Can you tell me the manufacturer? I am researching now as much as possible ready for my new door.

They now use a 2 screw cover and 2 x 1.5 volt AA Batteries.

Can you give me some details on the door? Manufacturer, Supplier etc. I will be needing one soon. Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Russell.

When I say open cavity, I mean that it is intended to be closed with a cavity closer that would normally be hidden by the door frame. But if I fit the door behind the opening then the cavity closer will be seen / exposed to the elements.

Hi All, On my extension plans the wall for my garage is showing an open cavity (Brick and Block wall) in the opening for the garage door. I presume that this would normally be finished with a cavity closer and then the door fitted in the opening. However I may want to fit the door behind the opening to allow for extra headroom (Insulated Roller Door) Is it possible to close the cavity if I fit the door behind the opening without creating a cold bridge? Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Russell. Off to look for Led Panels now.

The diagram was drawn by me - I was trying to see how it would all work 😯 So would this be better?

We have a 100mm full filled cavity (Earthwool Dritherm 32) They are included in the build cost.

Rafters are drawn as 150mm We have planned for triple glazed Velux Is my diagram below how it should be done? or would it be better to fill the area directly behind the plasterboard? Or is there a better way?

We have a Grohe 1000 - its used at least twice a day and has been going strong for over 10 years. We need two more showers for our new extension - I will be buying Grohe.

Hi All, Cavity Closers - anything to discuss? any recommendations? or are they all pretty much the same thing. Can they be mitered in the corners or should they overlap vertically or horizontally? Thanks, Wozza.

Russell, I think you may have hit the nail on the head, we are having a wrap around ground floor extension with a vaulted roof and also an extension above the garage, so there are two different types of roof - I had them confused as one roof, doh. I have attached a plan. A couple of questions, the plans show Celotex on the sloping roof, 100mm between and 40mm below the rafters: 1 - How much difference would it make if I upgraded the 100mm to 125mm (would it be worth the cost etc)? 2 - How do people fit downlights in a roof with PIR insulation? Thanks, Wozza BR-001 REV A.pdf

Hi All, Would someone be able to visualise or understand my roof construction on my extension - I cant get my head around how the architect has planned for it to be constructed - I get the majority of it but I cant work out how she has planned the insulation etc, this is what she has written on the plan. Proposed roof tiles to match existing to suit roof pitch on 38x25sw treated battens on Tyvek Supra breathable membrane on rafters and ceiling joists as specified on plans on sw wall plate anchored to block inner skin with 30x5 gms straps min 1.0m long and at 2.0m max centres. The first 3 No. rafters and ceiling joists strapped back to wall with bat 30 x 5 x 1200mm gms restraint straps at max. 1800mm centres and supported with 50 x 75mm sw noggins packed tight to wall. All roof timbers to be tanalised. Roof voids to have 150mm quilt insulation laid between joists and 150mm laid above at right angles. Insulation to roof slopes to be min 100mm Celotex between and 40mm below rafters with min 25mm void to underside of roof membrane. Thanks, Wozza.