wozza

My PV cables go between the overlap in the felt, that is just lazy, it would not have taken long to thread them through. You could put a loop in the cable to stop any drips reaching anything electrical. I decided against putting my inverter in the loft, due to the high temperatures in the summer months. Even with it in the coldest room in the house (the garage) the cooling fan still operates during the summer.

Thanks chaps.

Hi All, My side extension roof is 2300mm wide, the architect has specified 400mm rafter centres (so 7 rafters) What do people normally do when its an odd size? would you fit them at 400mm centres and have a smaller centre at the end or would you divide the space up equally so that they are all the same centres (in my case it would be 383mm centres) Thanks Wozza.

Fitted one last week and four a few months ago without any problems. Are the windows square and flat once fitted (same gap / space around the openings) My latches look totally different to yours. Have you tried calling Velux technical? they were very good when my builder had an issue.

Just sign up and send a copy of the receipt / invoice. https://velux.qwasi.com/rewards/

Our Siemens hob, is just placed into the hole in the Silestone quartz, no fixings.

Sign up to the Velux rewards scheme. I got £140 back (in vouchers for various shops) for my Velux windows.

Exactly what I did last week

100mm PIR should achieve a U value of around 0.15 according to the Kingspan calculator (See link below - there are others available) I believe that the recommended values for a domestic extension floor in England are a U value of 0.22, new build is 0.11 - this will need confirming I did have the same floor make up, 100mm concrete, 100mm PIR, 75mm sand cement screed, however I have now changed this to 100mm concrete, 120mm PIR and 55mm liquid screed as I am also having UFH. Kingspan calculator: https://www.uvalue-calculator.co.uk/calculator/floors/ground floor/solid concrete - insulation below screed/1/100/

Thanks Nod, I should have said that the original 75mm screen was most likely going to be a sand / cement, the new 55mm screed will be liquid screed.

Hi All, Our floor make up was / is going to be 100mm Concrete, 100mm PIR and 75mm Screed We are considering increasing the insulation to 120mm and reducing the screed to 55mm The UFH pipework will be fixed directly to the PIR What are the pros and cons apart from installation time of using a 120mm PIR board vs using 20mm and 100mm boards combined?

Looks very smart - please post more pics as you progress. Can I ask a couple of questions? What tiles are they? SWIMBO likes them, we have had our eye on some 1200 x 1200 matt white marble effect Why did you use the matting?

Is that 50mm PIR insulation in a 100mm cavity? If so then as PeterW has said it would be cheaper and better insulated with full fill cavity batts. Try this: https://www.cba-blocks.org.uk/u-value-calculator/ I am using Plasmor Fibolite blocks and 100mm Dritherm 32 insulation.

Thanks for your reply Only 2 zones, but one is around 60 square meters (open plan kitchen living area) and the other is about 20 square meters (bedroom and en suite) Thanks for your reply Will only be using for UFH and I believe that the wiring centre will also be Heatmiser.

Hi All, A nice chap has been round to quote for UFH - he uses Emmeti Pipe and manifolds - are they any good? anyone used them or got experience of them? The pipe is Emmeti alpert PE-RT/AL/PE-RT Also he said that he uses Heatmiser Thermostats - is there a particular one that I should request or avoid? Also is there any reason why the pipes cannot be looped under the floor where the stone resin shower tray will be fitted. Thanks, Wozza