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After what seems like an age (but is not compared to others on here) we have at last are formal planning approval! We had quite journey, some of which is detailed here. We were told by our planning consultant just before Christmas that it would be approved by the 10th but of course until it actually states "Application Approved" on the portal then of course nothing is guaranteed. We were on site today cutting the overgrown boundary to the rear when I got the call to say that it had been approved. So, just a bit to do over the next year or so! Onwards and Upwards.

Because they can. In the same way as Elon Musk can do what he does. He does so because he can: and will soon realise that one day - because he abuses that right - will be roundly ignored. It's the quality of what anyone has to say that matters. Immaterial Objections ( technical term in the Planning context) cannot be taken into consideration. Because if they are, and they lead to a rejection of a Planning Application, they form grounds for Appeal. It's hurtful, its nasty. Its normal. You are not alone.

I filled a cavity wall from the top using beads for a similar sized area of internal cavity wall, which in our case was allowing cold loft air down into the wall. I just bought some beads from ebay and lots of PVA glue, mixed the glue up in approx 10:1 water:pva in a watering can, then worked up in layers of beads/PVAmixture, pouring from above The beads flowed very well so I had no worries about voids etc, and I could see with a headtorch that all areas were being filled. If you had two people then you could pour both beads and pva mixture at the same time which would probably work better; I am sure that the PVA mixture in my case didn't quite reach all areas. Its made a big difference for us, so I think would be well worth doing. I knew it was unlikely we would ever drill a hole through the wall and it wasn't connected to other cavities, so I guess I was a bit more relaxed about how well the PVA mix worked, as long as the beads reached all parts of the cavity (you could foam the top?).

I suspect I am not alone here, but why do people put in public objections for a property that does not impact them in anyway. We have just received our first public objection (currently, cannot read the comment) from someone who lives 200 metres down the lane, and only comes past our plot when they walk their dog up the no through lane. So it can only be a "I don't like it as it changes the appearance of the lane", when in fact, it's that he wants to walk his dog along the lane without anyone being able to look out a window and see him. Just reinforces my view, that there are some very sad and bitter individuals out there!

Hi All, I am hoping to start work to demolish a 60's bungalow in a matter of weeks, and then rebuild using off-site timber frame. I have had planning approval for a year and as yet I am unable to begin as there is the flipping SuDS condition to discharge, which is proving frustratingly awkward. I am a retired (health issue) cabinet maker and have worked on a few building sites, and done some shop fitting. My bro-in-law also happens to be my architect, and he's currently completing a self build ICF annexe for himself just around the corner from my re-build. Despite these advantages it is still pretty daunting as I am the self appointed PM. I look forward to interacting with the good members of this forum, and hope that you won't mind me firing off the odd (probably dim) question. Onwards, and upwards! Tim

Hello all, I`m Chris and I`ve taken the once in a life-time task of renovativ (rebuilding actually) a house from ground-up. From underfloor heating, MVHR, smart-home, electrics, pipework, sliding doors and adding a dormer. Nothing was kept except brick walls, some of the windows and the staircase. Project is done, need to do some final touches and work on the smart home automations... Glad to be here among other DIYers.

Appeal Decision notice attached for anyone who is interested. 3350167 Appeal Decision (1).pdf

Wait. Do not lose focus on the possibility of a house Keep the area mown. Watch - like a hawk - the Planning legislation develop over this Government's incumbency Network with appropriate people - Planners, Local Govt execs, Estate Agents, builders, publicans Prime key people to tip you the wink when anything new and relevant is happening in your local Planning area Know your Local Development Plan inside-out As @IanR says - infrastructure : no poop disposal, no sparks, no phone line, no water - > no house. Double check everything Check your LPAs website regulalry for similar applications - 'know' the territory Keep the idea alive in your head: plan > cost >replan We waited from 1985 to 2012(ish) . SWMBO never forgets anything. Useful (sometimes😑)

We have porcelain tiles on pedestals. The ground underneath is anything but level and the pedestals we’ve used are from 50mm to 300mm high to give us a level patio. No grout required, water pours through the gaps. Jet wash it once a year and it still looks as good as new. As with @Andehh our tiles are the same inside to out. Slippery little bastards with frost on them.

Hi & welcome. Assuming you are outside of an established settlement, now the buildings have been removed they can't help with a new planning, unfortunately. From what you've said they are likely to have been removed in a trade-off for the development that has occurred, making it even less likely that the site could be re-developed. That leaves the Para 84(e) option mentioned by your architect. This is a long and expensive route with no garuntees, costs overall will be much higher than £8K. Do some research into Architect's that specialise in this type of application. Some LPA's may not accept that the site is an "Isolated" position (that allows for Para84(e)), due to the neighbouring properties, but there is now some case law that has defined "isolated" as anything that is not within a built settlement. Ref. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/national-planning-policy-framework/5-delivering-a-sufficient-supply-of-homes If it were mine I'd canvas the adjacent properties so see what it is worth to them, someone may want to keep a horse and pay a premium for it. If no one offers an amount acceptable to you, then you could apply for Equestrian use + stables and tack room, with a high enough ridge that can be later converted. With water and electricity connected it could return a reasonable rent, while you wait it out for 5 - 10 years and then approach the council for a conversion/re-build. It's got a low chance of success, but stops being a chain around your neck and covers its costs. Caveat - hopefully you have access rights over the drive/track and it includes running utilities?

Appeal successful. I need to sit down for a while 😁

Somebody - maybe us, needs to put together a briefing paper / manifesto / letter to HMG via the MPs and the PM to let them know what's going on, why it's all wrong and offer some solutions. We could probably send a letter to the majority of MPs, we all live in a constituency somewhere don't we. The challenge will be getting us all to agree what needs to be said.

They are skewing the market and need to go too. Do it over a 5 year period starting now. I do like this idea if MCS is overhauled instead of being scrapped. Regarding the fuel poverty aspect of this, owners of property must be "carrot and sticked" towards properly improving the insulation of those properties. We need to get all homes upto a minimum C EPC rating - I would suggest 75C to start with, but with a road map outlined for steady improvement over a 10 year plan, so those who want to can move faster if necessary. How about linking stamp duty not only to value of house but EPC rating as one of a package of incentives?

To me yes. I think anybody who might be doubtful won't notice unless i point it out, so i won't. Iive learnt a bit about the foibles of these so the next use, on a more important wall, will be improved.

Congratulations it’s a great feeling. I too was at our plot pulling out gorse when I got the call.

Congratulations

Once it stays below 0 even in the day, there is little humidity in the air and I rarely see the ASHP need to defrost. I think our record was -18 one year, and a friend with a Cool Energy ASHP (that I had wired for him earlier that year) phoned me to say it was not working. Looking up the error code given it was "outside temperature too low" so I guess not all of them work in real cold. Something worth checking. It is no particular hardship at these temperatures, but that is the benefit of a well insulated house, I am not worrying if I can afford to have the heating on like many do. It only becomes a nuisance when you want to go out, and the daily ritual of shoveling last nights snow away. At least i am getting some exercise. If I was not doing that and it was less cold, I would probably be chopping firewood instead.

Thermally you're not going to achieve much here in terms of reducing conductive heat losses. The build up is just too thin. This is what you have currently. This is what you are proposing. Sonic gold isn't magic. It'll perform much the same as any thin layer of insulation but it's K value isn't great at 0.048W/m2k. Ideally you would lift the existing floorboards and insulate between the joists, lay something like Egger p5 chip board on top and then your floor. However if you've ruled this out then I would really concentrate on air sealing all the drafts from the floor. This really is the biggest win thermally and in terms of comfort. I wouldn't bother with the Sonic gold. Its mostly marketing guff. Like mentioned above you could glue the wood floor directly to a tile backing board like Jackoboard which has a K value of 0.034 W/m2K. Lay the boards and seal all joints fastidiously with sealant or tape. Seal them to all perimeter walls similarly to completely eliminate all drafts. This will be your biggest win. The elimination for the need for a layer of ply or OSB will buy you some more insulation depth too. Here's 12mm. And here's 20mm if you can fit it. Both are better than the sonic gold in terms of heat loss but like I said before. The really really big gain is to be had in airtightness and the elimination of drafts.

Even barns are difficult unless you have over 5 hectares

@croboy we are in a similar position at the moment, having been looking for a suitable plot for a new build for many years, last year a bungalow with 1.5ish acre came up for sale in a great location, (with possibility of buying a further 10-15 acres later on). it had been built by the two farmers for their parents who passed and then sold to another family (who I purchased from) who knocked down the old barn and applied for planning for a replacement barn - refused, then re applied for a oak framed triple garage - refused, appealed and again refused. We bought the place, used a local architect and applied for a man shed on the paddock area - no chance, re applied with the shed moved onto the garden area to replace some old stables - nope! We reduced the size to 150sqm but still no, planners are now willing to discuss a possible design for 2x 75sqm (so they are unlikely to become dwellings in the future) under permitted development. hoping to get a go ahead in next couple of weeks so I can build my man-sheds.

Stick a barn on it, allow the neighbouring farmer to use it for ten years after which apply for change of use to residential - and then knock it down and build a house?

Sounds v unlikely, that's why they made the developer remove the old buildings - exactly to preempt further development. Wildflower meadow maybe - may need less upkeep and should be good to look at?

Hi, welcome and well done

You can get your LPA website to post new applications to you. The neighbouring areas too if similar circumstances. Learn from them free of charge. You may even end up being more expert than the experts, but will still need them for their credibility.

Sometimes if something is several hundreds cheaper than its equivalent rival, one has to ask how it is possible (when the nearest cheaper alternative is a market leading, reputable quality item anyways). I need quality and reliability without question, so I stick to what I’ve been installing for 25+ years eg Telford. Matters not one jot to me who uses what btw, just my experiences and advice, but I’ve been doing this for 30+ years and have kissed many frogs on the way…

Holiday cottage on it, if your in a sought after area.

It's not the flash point you you have to think about, it's the autoignition temperature. They're not the same. Flash point is the temperature you have to heat something to so that when you hold a naked flame over it, the vapours coming off it will ignite. As you raise the temperature, the concentration of the vapours in air increases until it gets to the lower flammable limit and a flame will ignite them. Autoignition is the temperature you have to heat something to so that it ignites without the presence of a naked flame. Not being pedantic, just want to highlight that it wasn't a naked flame which caused markocosic's towel to catch fire. It just got too hot.

@Russdl thanks! And yes, utterly bizarre. All I can think is the compression joint to the 28mm was not quite tight enough so over a number of expansion and contraction cycles it was pushing against it and managed to rotate on it, a bit like a ratchet. The fact I do DHW reheat and space cooling on higher outputs during cheap over night electric (and this happened exactly in cooling season, starting May) perhaps compounding it. It must have had a pretty bad kink to start and then this just collapsed it. The other thing I noticed is the pipe seems to have lost a lot of its "flex", almost like it has perished and seized up a bit Anyway for a part costing so much (for what it is) it's very disappointing to have this happen It'd be interesting if there's industry figures on failure modes and reasons for breakdown call outs. These do seem a prone part (having installed new ones and seen how easy it is for bad bend radius to kink them, but hidden under the insulation)

It was a local metal fabricator but I’m pretty sure he didn’t fabricate them himself. He knew someone that did and supplied them to me.

The relationship is truly hosed, especially, after our neighbour was the one who was nice as pie before we handed over the money to purchase the plot, and then submits an objection.

Just break things down in piece parts. MVHR set at building regs for the first year. After that you can reduce a little, based on CO2 levels and humidity. But wouldn't go much lower than 0.3ACH. Water heating set cylinder thermostat to say 48, set a timer window of heating for 1 hr twice per day. Assess usage. Set ASHP to weather compensation run 24/7, or set flow temp to 35 and use a single thermostat (assuming no radiators). That will cost you £2k, and a consultant would tell you no different.

Can I get people's thoughts on whether the response below from our Architect is adequate. I am not sure whether any of the objections that were raised, can be countered using reference to planning policy, or whether it is not like law where you can reference case law when arguing a raised point. The objections are on page 1 of the post history. Response to Mr ... Objection Architectural Design and Context The proposed design has been developed with reference to the Hampshire barn vernacular, which is appropriate for the rural setting and enhances the character of the site. Existing properties along White Lane lack a cohesive architectural style. For example, Woodstock has evolved over time, resulting in a fragmented design, while Primrose Cottage is a modest bungalow constructed with low-quality materials in a DIY manner. Our proposal introduces a high-quality, cohesive design that respects the rural environment without replicating the inconsistencies of its neighbours. Permitted Development Rights Concerns about potential future extensions over the garage under permitted development are noted. To address this, a planning condition could be imposed to remove permitted development rights, ensuring that any future changes would require planning oversight and maintain the character of the development. Drawings and Context The drawings provided are accurate, to scale, and represent the closest built forms for context. It is unclear why they have been described as disingenuous, as they adhere to all planning requirements including scale. Furthermore, as noted above, Woodstock lacks a distinct architectural style, making it challenging to use as a reference for the new design. Windows and Ridge Height The inclusion of a small number of first-floor windows has been carefully considered to avoid overlooking any neighbouring properties. The overall massing of the proposed dwelling is smaller than the previously approved scheme, and the building has been positioned further away from Primrose Cottage. Importantly, the ridge height remains unchanged from the approved application, as shown in the submitted drawings. Response to Mrs .... Objection Design Features and Materials While the new design differs from the previously approved scheme, it addresses several of the concerns raised in the earlier application, including: First-floor windows will be constructed using hardwood, ensuring a high-quality and sympathetic finish. The ridge height remains unchanged, as the property will be set into the site using the existing lower ground level to reduce its visual impact. A traditional timber gate, set 5 metres back from the road, has been included for security purposes. However, we are happy to omit this feature if it cannot be supported. The building incorporates high-quality materials, including timber cladding at first-floor level and heritage multi-brick at the ground floor, to achieve a Hampshire barn aesthetic. While extending the timber across the entire façade is an option, we believe this would detract from the overall design and is inconsistent with other properties on the lane that also use a mix of materials. Additional hedging is being planted to enhance the landscape and compensate for any loss of existing vegetation. Architectural Style and Landscape Integration The design adopts the Hampshire barn style, which is sympathetic to its rural surroundings. The use of heritage multi-brick and dark-stained oak cladding ensures that the building blends seamlessly into the landscape. Attempting to mimic the ad hoc design of Primrose Cottage or the overdeveloped nature of Woodstock would fail to meet the high design standards achieved by the current proposal. Future Extensions The client has no intention of extending the property in the future. Any such extensions would require planning permission, and a condition can be included to remove permitted development rights, ensuring that the building’s form and scale will remain as proposed. Proximity to Primrose Cottage and Visual Impact The proposed design is positioned further away from Primrose Cottage than the previously approved scheme: The ridge height is located an additional 8 metres away from the property. The garage is positioned an additional 4.5 metres away and features a flat roof, which is less imposing on the outlook from Primrose Cottage. These changes ensure that the visual impact on Primrose Cottage is reduced compared to the previously approved scheme. Even if future development over the garage were proposed, it would remain further away from Primrose Cottage than the earlier application. Conclusion The proposed design has been carefully developed to address concerns raised in the earlier application while providing a high-quality, purpose-built family home that integrates with its rural surroundings. Although the design differs from the previous scheme, it has been designed to address some of the earlier concerns whilst standing on its own merit and respecting the character of White Lane and the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. We are happy to discuss any further adjustments or conditions to address the concerns raised, including restrictions on permitted development rights. Thank you for your time and consideration, and please do not hesitate to contact me should you require any further clarification.

Any use?

In my opinion having a clear island is much better. When hosting, you have two separate congregation points, without cooker mess and paraphernalia in the way. Cooking than then be kept separate. I used to think otherwise, but having just been to a friends new home, they have the cooker against the wall, a similar sized island to your proposal, and it worked really well as a gathering space.

Welcome. The adding of 'tech' is often misunderstood. There is the hardware i.e glazing, heating, lights, security. Then there is the control of it, i.e manual, semi-automatic, automatic, remote and/or local. Finally there is the monitoring, i.e. remote, local, just data data and control. Most end up with a basic heater and an adjustable weather compensation controller. Not enough people collect and analyse usage data.

I think what you have to remember ( forgive negativity ) . LPA don’t want it to pass , locals ( or nowhere near ! ) don’t want it to pass . So when the council gets so much ‘refuse permission’ kick back it’s FAR less hassle to go that route . It took me 5 yrs to get planning . LPA were against it all the way . My 23 opposing neighbors ( aka (expletive deleted) ) worked together to form as many objections as possible . Again , remember , valid objections can override hundreds of other objections. Overwhelm the LPA and they’ll win . I went to a LPA meeting with 130 reasons to reject ( council and neighbors ) . Hours later that was whittled down to 3 valid I.e planning reasons . Record all conversations is a MUST ( recording pen is good as you’ll be expected to turn your phone off ) .

Unless something has passed me by *all* PIR boards are made of foam. I have done a number of floating floors on PIR,on XPS and on rigid wood-fibre, and in none of those cases has the floor felt anything other than solid. No discernible bounce whatever. I have never done one with rigid rockwool, though, so unfortunately I cannot comment, except to say that if I were trying it as an experiment I would start with the external wall insulation grade of rockwool. BTW the web says this about thermal conductivity of the RW boards you mention: "Thermal performance. ROCKWOOL Thermal RockFloor has a thermal conductivity of 0.038 W/mK. ROCKWOOL Acoustic RockFloor has a thermal conductivity of 0.040 W/mK". So just over half as good as PIR for a given thickness, but it has the acoustic properties which PIR neither has nor claims.

Have you ruled out insulating below your existing timber floor? You'll be able to fit far more insulation. It sounds like you're already raising your existing floor level a fair bit with both ply and 10mm flooring and something in between, is that going to cause problems elsewhere? Including the 25mm insulation you linked would mean losing overall best part of 50mm headroom throughout, including all the doorways and make your bottom/top stair a tripping hazard due to uniform height. On a positive note those dense foam underlays like sonic gold are very stable and do a great job of deadening sound (have used under a floating floor before now)

Topps Tiles, backing board. There are others like this. Jackoboard. Wedi board. It is much denser, made for under tiles, and it has thermal qualities which the foil would not. And/ or mineral wool in the space below.

No problem. In the early design drawing stage, no not really, but there are a few things you need to think about a little further on, which I wish someone told me! What is your finished floor covering going to be? Microcement/polished concrete = easy. Engineered wood (like us), will need a little more thought when it comes to fitting and for expansion allowance. Your plasterer will need to be onboard with the idea, as it'll be his skimming which determines how clean the finish is. How do you plan to finish around your doors? Do you also want a shadow gap, or an architrave?

I’m sorry but installing insulation takes time and I always charge for it. It is not something that should be included in the rates the same as feature bands, cutting up gables and cutting the bottom course of blocks where others have lost the ability to use a laser level correctly. I won’t take on projects with tongue and groove insulation because it’s not fit for purpose. Cutting and installing full fill insulation requires the following skills. 1) be able to use a tape measure 2) be able to use a long sharp knife and a cutting slot. 3) be able to think ahead 4) checking each junction as you go. 5) protecting work properly as brickwork progresses Gaps in insulation is my pet hate and the lads who work with me know it and have known it for years. I can guarantee that there isn’t a single gap in any of the cavity insulation on the 2 houses that I have just built for myself. Like I said it’s not rocket science but it does take time to get it bang on. Time should be paid for. Some of the bricklayers that have worked for some of this forums members were most likely used to working on a ‘rate per 1000 all in’ to include all the sundries. I stopped giving my time away for free 30 odd years ago. You pay peanuts you get monkeys. I do agree that there are plenty of poor bricklayers about but to tar them all with the same brush is pure stupidity.

Won't worry over it, just run at a lower temperature - problem fixed.

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I've seen this issue of intent mentioned several times in this context. Be prepared for HMRC to contact your lender for copies of any paperwork relating to the mortgage. For example if you tell the bank that you will only need some of the money for a few years because you intend to sell the first house then that may come back to bite you later. Its also unlikely to work if the second house is near identical to the first. You really need some sort of reason for moving just 10 yards. I would consider re-applying for planning permission on the second house before building it, perhaps to make it larger as you "intend starting a family etc". Remember you also need to live in the first house for 3 years to avoid the CIL.

My PP covers 2 houses and when I put my VAT reclaim in HMRC contacted me and asked what my plans were for the other plot. As it happens I didn’t own the other plot as the original plot owner built one house, sold it, split the title and sold me the other plot. I did however ring HMRC to explain (and also to explain something else they queried). The lady was very clear to say that they had to understand intent and implied that serial self builders may be viewed as avoiding tax. If you don’t build the other house straightaway you could perhaps say that currently your plans at present were to sell off the second plot at some point to offset some of the cost of the self build. You could have sold the plot at the start surely anyway. You would need to take advice clearly and probably would not want to build the second house immediately afterwards. You may get challenged if the second house was identical for example. They do seem to be tightening up. Maybe you should consider whether to sell the second plot as a plot rather than building a house to sell? That could maybe work out better financially.

Suds can be BS . Mine recently got signed off without ‘complying’ with suds . Why’s that ? . It’s mandatory. So I find planning applications where it has magically not been applied . Then I find planning applications with zero mention of suds passed by my planning officer . Funny how kicking the cat makes the dog shit itself 😉

Keep them empty and I shall come over and put some decent logging in. Then I can publish a paper about them, mostly at your expense.

They be (expletive deleted)ers

Ha! Fair enough Pocster! I can't compete with that!