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thefoxesmaltings

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  1. I am just about to put my project out to tender. In addition to the technical drawings I am going to ask the TF companies to mark what's included, what's extra, and if there are additionals, to add them to the below sheet. Would appreciate any feedback on the below tender spreadsheet I have pulled together. - Does it seem comprehensive enough to cover everything? If there is something obvious I am missing or anything unclear, please let me know!
  2. Quick update after speaking with Glideline, specifically about a 3 pane sliding pocket, so thought I would share and update the thread... Apparently, it would be fine to fit a 3 pane sliding pocket door into that space and nothing will change structurally from the build. The outer skin brickwork, cavity, timber frame wall is all on the outside and the pocket frame door is on the inside and set back from that. For example, in an external timber frame wall section, rather than 140mm timber frame, reduce that to 100mm. Insulate that and put something like marine ply. The pocket door and tracks slide behind all of that. An additional stud wall is built on the inside which hides and forms the pocket which houses the panes of glass. All doors operate on the inside of the inner skin, so there shouldn’t be a break in the thermal envelope. With a triple track being approx. 210mm, it’s inevitable that I'd lose a bit of internal space as the wall thickness will be slightly greater, but reducing the thickness of the timber frame on the outside, and removing the insulated plasterboard for the wall section, would accommodate and help limit how much that wall encroaches into the living area. I wouldn’t even need to run additional steel into the wall to support the pocket door as it’s not bearing any weight. (To be confirmed by structural engineer of course). Meaning the only additional construction cost for this is for the extra pocket track and studwork. One of the concerns (rightly so) raised above was that when the sliding doors are closed, I would we see a huge 210mm gap on the side of the wall, but the glazing company said that there is a pocket plate which goes onto the interlock covering that up. When the doors are slid, the plate moves with the door, thus sealing the gap.
  3. What about reducing the thickness of the timber frame, in that section from 140mm to say 100mm, insulating that, putting something like marine ply and then the pocket door tracks sliding behind all of that? Might end up with a thicker wall on the LHS to accommodate the extra depth of the triple track, but seems like it could work? Current External wall:
  4. I have been told by my architect that it is "impossible" to have an external sliding glass pocket door with timber frame construction. Something I honestly thought was pretty standard. My architects comments when I asked to make the change on the drawings: "This would be impossible due to the inability to waterproof and insulate properly, and that we would need a very large steel above in order to cover almost 8m of opening. This would mean also using posts and boxes in order to cover everything, and quite frankly would just look unsightly and be awkward to construct." The total length of the proposed glass sliding door is 6m, with 3 panes...nothing I would class as out of the ordinary. We would need a steel beam there anyway, due to the 6m span. I envisioned a small extra cost for additional steel in the span, and also the small cost of the extended track. However, overall, I would have expected the cost difference to be pretty minuscule. Each pane is approx 1980mm and the width of the wall for them to slide into is approx 2400mm. I had planned for the 3 panes to slide from right to left. It seems like we have enough space to house the doors within the wall? Has anyone successfully planned or installed a large external glass pocket slider into a timber frame house? Or alternatively can provide me with some drawing detail or ammunition to go back to my architect with? Image below for example:
  5. Not really, but the alternatives we've looked at either aren't suitable or 5x the price. Open to suggestions though.
  6. Yeah I've come across these acrylic adhesives which look like they could be suitable - https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/bonding-and-assembly-uk/substrate/metal/ "Structural bonding of metals" apparently. The cure time of 10mins or so could be a bit tricky to keep the panels in place for that amount of time.
  7. What would you hang the U section backing on the steel onto? i.e. What surface would there need to be instead of battens? Just trying to visualise how this would work...
  8. Screws/rivets is the obvious choice, yes. But trying to avoid any visible fixings as it doesn't look good with corten steel.
  9. Edited the original post with further detail. Also below. Apologies for the ambiguity. 2mm thick corten steel sheets Not sure yet what fixing to...battens etc. Indoors and outdoors Multiple panels, have not intended to seal the joints. Would you say this is necessary?
  10. Has anyone got experience of using solely 3M VHB Double Sided tape, or steel grade liquid adhesive (if that exists?), to affix a non-structural corten steel facade panel. We have a requirement to clad some external walls & columns in corten steel, but want to avoid showing any fixings (rivets/screws etc.). My thought process is to purchase the 2mm thick corten as sheet metal, already cut to size, and then affix to the flat structure using the 3M VHB tape. Fixing required indoors & outdoors. I'm aware of the various cassette facade systems with hidden fastenings, but these come at a significant additional cost. Alternative ideas welcome...
  11. Looking to hear from those with experience of installing or using corten/weathering steel cladding. What is the minimum recommended thickness? I have read differing views and corten suppliers won't give me a recommendation, to prevent accepting liability if it goes wrong. Naturally, the price rises exponentially with thickness, so looking to hear some real world experience on this.
  12. Interesting. Do you have any links to companies and/or examples?
  13. Planning total end to end was 4 years, but mostly handled by our architect. I'd be suprised if anyone told you it was easy to achieve planning under Paragraph 79 (Now 80) as there are some very strict (and quite vague) guidelines on what is a suitable proposal. I would recommend finding a great local architect who has a proven track record if success and/or planning consultant to assist.
  14. @saveasteading seems to have a different experience in that the rust will not come off when brushed against, when used indoors. This still brings me back to my original question on how to seal it effectively though.
  15. Good to know, but you're saying it will definately get on clothes if leant/brushed against etc?
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