torre

I'd have thought there's a structural adhesive that could cope with bonding brackets, rails to fix the panels to. +1, especially if you're looking at flexible panels for a curved roof?

I agree if you fit something below agreed spec or just badly, but if TT co already taken an average velux into account when quoting target, then it's not the fenestration that's caused the shortfall in performance

Are you sure? A couple of 150mm diameter holes open when testing?

I'd be interested if you do get clarification on the difference. Space between floors is about a 10% difference, so 0.64-> 0.7+ Personally I'd be happy enough but if the TF quoted knowing your window spec etc to meet 0.6 and the real figure looks like heading over 0.75 maybe there's a conversation to be had with the TF along the lines that you'd be happy with them chipping in 1K towards your resulting higher bills to save them 2K towards aero barrier, maybe not worth the goodwill cost though

You'll be underinsured, no insurer will accept a 1M+ property can be rebuilt for anything close to 400K If there's a claim in the future, say 100K corrective work, you won't get anything like that much paid out. Instead you'll get a proportion, relative to their own assessment of realistic reinstatement cost (close to your own market valuation). So probably around 400K/1.2M as a percentage, meaning they'll pay out maybe 30K of your 100K bill for collective work and you'll be left with the rest. Same applies to any future buyer, their and any mortgage solicitors will flag the warranty isn't worth much. It's probably cheaper to get realistic warranty cover now than retrospectively, but your call if you want to take on the informed risk

On sound brickwork we've had good results using brick acid. Soaking the wall first with water to minimise penetration into the bricks, brushing on the acid, leave for 30 seconds or so, give it a scrub with a scrubbing brush not wire brush and thoroughly rinse off. You can try it diluted first and on a small area. Always wear eye protection and you should, if diluting, add acid to water not the other way around! I'd be more wary of doing this on stonework, a stone mason who worked on our build suggested it's okay if the stone is saturated first and the acid not left on for long but I'd definitely want to try it on an off cut or something first, as the acid will react with the stone much faster than brickwork.

Something like this would be shallow enough and affordable, can't vouch for the quality though. https://vodaland.co.uk/products/easy-low-plastic-channel-drain-with-plastic-grate You do get clips to retain the edge of tiles on pedestals but they won't give much additional support to the overhang.

+1 to using pedestals, we'll probably finish our exposed patio edges with vertical tiles that fix to the pedestal with clips example, which hopefully avoids the risk of vermine getting below

Fair enough on the neighbourly point then, sorry. Moving or losing 400mm may still be simplest though.

As @Conor says, moving it just 400mm will be simpler and maybe a bit more neighbourly too? It's going to be a substantial not very attractive building that it sounds like you might cut corners on and you don't want close to your own house - they probably don't either!

We're only just into G99 but my impression from our installer was that the DNO set an export limit rather than just saying no.

Pop up plug with wireless charging maybe? I'm not personally a fan of pop up plugs, but neither do I like expensive phones easily sliding / being knocked off hard surfaces in a working space. I do like @Conor's charging drawer idea!

One thing to check is whether they are SBD or PAS24 approved, required for a new build. I'm sure the Rationel will be but the Cortizo may not be - the 4600 isn't their most common model. We bumped into a situation where they have a PAS24 certified configuration of their Cor Vision, but not their Cor Vision Plus. BCO wouldn't allow the Plus. Cortizo is rebranded a lot so might be a bit less consistent. If you can, it's nice to be hands on with these big sliders to get a feel for their quality

I thought 25mm was the minimum for roofing anyway, wouldn't use less

Tektite push fit copper might be a decent alternative - slimmer than plastic push-fit externally and wider internally, no need to hire / buy tools versus press fit (which Tektite sprint looks similar to assembled) Working on our own house they're my preferred option if I do need joints in copper but generally I prefer long runs in Hep2o terminating to copper only as needed.