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  1. Thanks @nod, but I only see barge board verges in your photo.
  2. Interested in some thoughts on this design... I'm especially interested in how to make the front elevation look more interesting. It faces on a bearing of 190 deg, just west of south, so perfect for a large array of PV panels. I have 3 phase so planning for an 11 kW array. Unfortunately though the large plain roof could result in a rather uninteresting design. We're in a conservation area, but our planning consultant has told us this is more about the leafiness than any particular look to the houses, so contemporary would be fine. The street has a mix of late Victorian, 1970s and recently renovated modern houses. The owners describe the Victorian houses as Arts and Crafts, I'm not so sure about that, but they have interesting hanging tiles which is not a look we plan to imitate. Contemporary would be fine. We have been thinking about ways to address overheating from the sun on the front of the house, and looked for ways to design in overhangs, but our architect didn't find a way to make that work. We think we'll have to install external blinds instead and a probably a heat pump with air conditioning. The angled external wall on the kitchen dining room is to get more natural light into the north facing elevation. On the first floor, we're going to switch the master bedroom en suite and dressing room so that we don't have the bathroom with a big window at the front of the house. The views are to the rear. Interested in your thoughts 🙂
  3. We're discussing design details with our architect and told her we like the look of parapet verges, similar to the attached drawing. She told us that a parapet verge on a timber frame house is not buildable. The attached drawing is actually from a timber frame company we got a design from but didn't proceed with, so I guess they thought it was possible. I do understand that you only have the one leaf of brickwork, so I'm not sure if the timber frame company were proposing a verge just one brick thick, which would look a bit skinny, or had some other way in mind of building the parapet wide enough to look correct. Any thoughts? Can you have a parapet verge on a timber frame house?
  4. @Nick Sheppard what do you think of the CITB CDM Wizard app?
  5. Gas hobs (and stoves) are increasingly being criticised for affecting air quality in the house. Nitrogen dioxide seems to be the main issue and its link to asthma.
  6. The government has published its response to its consultation document on the Clean Heat Market Mechanism. The original consultation is here. Targets for generating or acquiring heat pump credits for the first two years of the scheme will be 4% of a manufacturer’s relevant fossil fuel boiler sales for April 2024 to March 2025 and 6% of relevant sales for the following year. A tradable heat pump credit will be earned by a heat pump manufacturer upon the installation of a qualifying domestic-scale hydronic heat pump. Boiler manufacturers will have to pay £3,000 for every boiler they sell above the target. This will have an impact on the up front purchase price decision whether to buy a heat pump or a boiler. But it might be more effective in incentivising people to choose heat pumps, if they were to break the current relationship between the price of gas and electricity, to reduce the relative running costs of heat pumps? Interested in thoughts ...
  7. Here you go https://www.pipelineservices.co.uk I'm not sure if the forum rules or etiquette would prefer me to DM this, but why not give them a shout out as they did a good. I'm sure Forum Admin will advise if I got this wrong!
  8. As well as the water supply work described above, I've also moved the electricity and gas meters and at the same time got new supplies from the street - Cadent for the gas and SPEN for the electricity. I also wanted to relocate the supplies away from conflicts with the new build. Cadent told me that if I was increasing the size of the supply they would install the new supply from the street or free and I would just have to pay for the fairly short relocation of the meter, which is what I did. I got Cadent to leave the trench across my garden open, so SPEN could use it for the new 3 ph supply. SPEN billed me for the trench but agreed a reimbursement if they could use the Cadent one, as they did. Btw, despite the agreement, I'm still chasing them for the reimbursement. This all went well and the only problem I had was with energy supplier Eon Next who I needed to commit to installing the new meters to ensure continuity of supply. They were a compete pain in the proverbial. I switched to Octopus shortly before the work was done and they were much better. Technicians showed up when required to install both new meters.
  9. I'm preparing to demolish the house into which the water supply goes, prior to building the new house. We're still living in that house and will live onsite in an outbuilding during the build, so need to maintain the utilities. The water meter was inside the old house so I wanted to relocate it out of the house and agreed with United Utilities it would go in the street by the stop valve. UU agreed that the supply to the current house (built in the 1960s) could be replaced under their lead replacement programme. I did it all at the same time and the way it worked was, I paid UU £82 survey cost for the meter relocation, paid a private moling company £785+VAT as described above, they submitted paperwork to UU to demonstrate the work had been done, UU paid me £550 grant under the lead replacement programme, and I paid UU £183 to remove the old meter from the house and install the new meter in the street. I got quotes for the moling, and they did the connection in the street and installed an Atplas box over the stop valve and all UU had to do was screw on the new meter. It all went very smoothly. I only talked to two moling companies and the other one was more expensive and was going to do less - they were just going to install the new MDPE pipe and leave me to arrange a plumber to bring the new supply into the house and were going to leave UU to do the connection in the street. This would have left me with having to coordinate work to ensure continuity of supply. Very happy with the moling company I chose and UU were easy to work with.
  10. I just got about 15 m of 25 mm MDPE water pipe installed by moling for £785+VAT. That included making the connection to the main in the street. It also included bringing the new pipe up into an existing house and connecting it with new shut-off valve and drain. No road crossing though.
  11. The Telegraph article is behind a paywall. I've attached the Autumn Statement. On page 61: "The government is also creating more certainty for investors in low-carbon infrastructure by extending the critical national priority designation for nationally significant low-carbon energy projects. Alongside this, the government will look to remove unnecessary planning constraints by accelerating the expansion of electric vehicle (EV) charging infrastructure and will consult on amending the National Planning Policy Framework to ensure the planning system prioritises the rollout of EV chargepoints, including EV charging hubs. It will also consult on introducing new permitted development rights to end the blanket restriction on heat pumps one metre from a property boundary in England. Together these measures will reduce delays and capitalise on the UK’s world-leading approach to decarbonising the economy." Also interesting on the same page: "Substantive action is required to address the lengthy wait to connect to the electricity grid. These delays limit investment in the transition to low-carbon power generation, which is critical to the UK’s energy security. The government is therefore announcing reform of the grid connection process to cut waiting times, including freeing up over 100GW of capacity so that projects can connect sooner. This will help to enable the significant majority of projects to get their requested connection date with no wait and, for viable projects, reduce overall connection delays from five years to no more than six months." E02982473_Autumn_Statement_Nov_23_Accessible_v3.pdf
  12. If you were putting in a gas boiler, I guess it would have to go on an outside wall. But if you're putting in an ASHP with UFH, is it perhaps better to put the plant room in the centre of the floor plan - shorter runs for DHW, pipes to UFH manifold, MVHR ducts? Is there a maximum distance how far the plant room should be from the outside ASHP unit?
  13. I discussed this with a friend who is an acoustics consultant and spends his time investigating noise complaints from heat pumps as well as commercial fridge units, railway lines, aeroplanes etc. He made a couple of comments. Even if you meet the criteria required for the installation to be allowed under PD or have planning permission, a neighbour who finds the noise problematic can complain to Environmental Health who will investigate whether it's a nuisance. Their decision will be guided by BS 4142, but it is somewhat subjective - not just a question of measuring sound levels. In his experience 42 dB, can be quite a noticeable noise. Even if you meet PD criteria or have planning permission, you might find yourself having to mitigate the noise. If the government want to facilitate the installation of heat pumps, they'll have to deal with this, and we'll all have to get used to the noise.
  14. All good points. We'll see. I can put decking on top of it if I have these kinds of problems. I designed it with that in mind, e.g. set the handrail on the balustrade higher than the 1100 mm required by building regs to allow for the height of the decking.
  15. It's an 11 m x 4 m roof terrace, which means we walk on it. It has a parapet around it so the GRP goes up and over the top of the parapet under the masonry copings. Two layers of 450g fibreglass mat, two pack polyurethane resin and top coat. Including flashing, trim, rollers, acetone, parapet rain outlets etc the materials came to about £1300. I got a builder to install it and it took him about 4 days with a labourer, so about £1,000 labour. I decided not to use non slip top coat because I was concerned about keeping it clean. It's only been in a few months and so far don't see the need for non-slip. If I change my mind I'll just put a coat of non-slip top coat on it.
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