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We did the same. You need something independent of the main central heating system so that you can easily dry towels and add some heat to the bathrooms in the shoulder months.

It's pointless looking at graphs and doing sums. Just try it, and aim to run it at the slowest (quietest) speed that will achieve the flow rate that you want. Good pumps those nice and quiet.

so, I have a powered up Loxone cabinet! I can't say it's fully working yet as I can't get the DMX stuff to work. not sure what I'm doing wrong tbh but I'll take a look at it and try and figure it out. I also need to look at automating the lights as I've put a presence sensor in to each room but when I walk in nothing happens when I would've thought the lights should come on and when I test within config it shows the lights circuits being switched on but it doesn't work in real life. again, just need to look in to it as it's probably something I'm doing wrong. but, for now, we have lights being switched on by the switches (Touch tree and retractive) and so things are definitely moving along! here's my cabinet now wired up to the consumer unit.

Just for balance I believe there are some of us here who are still happy with their Sunamps, I certainly am despite having the thermistor string replaced under warranty a couple of years ago. In the OP’s proposed set up surely the complex magic box is the ASHP not the Sunamp, there are no pumps etc in Sunamps anymore. Personally however I do feel that a Sunamp is best as a stand alone hot water solution and not coupled to some other hot water creator. That of course then needs some other solution for heating and if significant heat is required then the ASHP has got to be the way I guess. So after bravely defending the Sunamp I’d have to agree with @ProDave and @SteamyTea in this instance. Just off to get my hat 🏃🏼

Thank you for that, I might have a word and see if they can offer something for us.

In a "passive house" the flow temps are inconsequential. I now pipe under every single shower tray for my clients builds, staying around 400mm away from the waste / drain. Why? Not sure, but I am reasonably sure confident that it's entirely moot tbh.

You can't do any harm, so just work out what the lowest setting is that will maintain the room temps. Biggest question you should be asking right now, is what temp to set the mixing valve to Start off at 40oC and go up each day in 2oC increments until you are happy. Don't make adjustments in the same 24hr period, patience will pay dividends here

Right, that's what I was suspecting when I said " Most often it's the room is too bright (if you have the Br brightness input wired up)" 👍🏼

Your UFH risers are coming very close to the side door. Make sure that you have enough clearance to get the manifold assembly in.

+1, nothing like a warm towel.

I do 127mm cores fairly often, but by hand and without a rig. Just be patient, and like with metal, run the drill at a slow speed and let the diamonds do the cutting. Depending on how thick the slab is, bring the bit out every now and again to clear the dust. Just double check if the bits you're supplied with the drill or which you buy yourself are for wet, dry or suitable for either. I buy the Marcrist ones and they last pretty well. Oh, and make sure your unit has a good clutch!

Suggest the centre one, II, (constant pressure) there are three setting, i,ii & iii,, try ii for a start.

Good job! You have light switches and some lights working - that deserves a beer. Most likely thing for DMX is getting the signal pair + and - inverted. I do this every time regardless how methodically I follow it through. Also try just having one device on the DMX bus to start, plus the terminator resistor, then add more things once that one is working. Daisy chain, not star. For the motion sensors, I can't remember which brand you used but it sounds like you're seeing the digital inputs trigger in live view when there's motion? Just the lights don't automatically come on? In the loxone app go to the lighting controller -> History and that tends to give a little explanation why it did or didn't do something. Most often it's the room is too bright (if you have the Br brightness input wired up) or something is asserting the DisP input which disables all presence-based lighting

btw, my sparky was standing next to me today as we worked on the cabinet and I talked to him about the Gnd- terminals and running multiple cables and he said why don't you just run 4 x Gnds as they'll all fit in the WW. so I did, as you might be able to see from the photo. so thanks again for the information, it really helped.

Oh dear, another set of dreamers that do not know the difference between power and energy. From the Sunsync site. Ridge Blade Keith Gough, Managing Director of #Sunsynk Ltd is visiting a wind turbine site in North Yorkshire. The turbine is called the Ridge Blade ® and its unique design allows it to generate power during levels of wind speed from low to high. This is a remarkable new design of turbine and destined to revolutionise the production of renewable power. At the present moment in low wind conditions the device is producing 240Wh, however if elevated it is forecast to produce 2kWh. Sunsynk will be monitoring developments with great interest!

We have a Sunsynk inverter which can be connected to their cloud through a wifi dongle or an ethernet connection. You can also attach a modbus interface - I've done this because their app which accesses the cloud data only updates every 5 minutes, so doesn't really give real time data. So you could simply disconnect the wifi dongle and not connect a LAN connection and just use the local modbus interface - of course you won't be able to use their app but while that is comprehensive it ain't brilliant... Ours btw is still connected to the Sunsynk cloud whiel we're still tinkering. For modbus I've half-inched a nodered set of flows -> https://powerforum.co.za/topic/8451-sunsynk-inverter-monitoring/ to read the data and feed it through to a local open energy monitor server -> https://openenergymonitor.org/. The flows are very comprehensive and also include setting parameters and there's a pretty amazing nodered dashboard . I reckon if any other inverter has a modbus interface, you could use a lot of the flows with only a bit of adjustment. Not massively pretty but below is a dashboard from an openergymonitor server on a Pi Zero 2 which we're using at the moment as we get used to the new batteries and inverter. PV and house load are fetched every 5 seconds and the more slowly moving things every minute. The diverter data is from our Eddi.

architect says that the eaves height of a flat roof is measured at top of roof, ignoring the parapet which would sit above the top of the roof from the Government Website http://data.parliament.uk/DepositedPapers/Files/DEP2012-1435/Parapets.pdf For the purpose of measuring height, the eaves of a house are the point where the lowest point of a roof slope, or a flat roof, meets the outside wall. The height of the eaves will be measured from the ground level at the base of the external wall of the extension to the point where the external wall would meet (if projected upwards) the upper surface of the roof slope. Parapet walls and overhanging parts of eaves should not be included in any calculation of eaves height.

Well we're in the wrong forum for the detailed behaviour of filament bulbs, fuses and MCBs (try eevblog or some of the more inquisitive physics/electrical youtube channels). Here's the short answer: The bulb is normally ~40W i.e. 0.2A i.e. not much. This is a total guess on my part, but I am going to suggest that the current spiked to, say, 10-30A for, say, 100ms. If you had current clamp and an oscilloscope, and could repeat the experiment at will, you would be able to see the fast spike and estimate the maximum current amplitude. That spike was enough to blow the fuse and trip the trip. The fuse blew in say 800ms, but while that was going on the MCB tripped - yes, the MCB shut off the current, but the fuse was already red hot by that time. There's endless detail (as there is in any subject if you dig deep enough) but here's a bit more: https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/341134/how-to-calculate-melting-time-of-a-fuse https://library.e.abb.com/public/114371fcc8e0456096db42d614bead67/2CDC400002D0201_view.pdf >>> I'm trying for an analogy in chain terms but can't think of one. OK this: suppose you have a chain with a breaking load of 10T. There are two weak links of various sorts, one 1T, one 0.5T. You suddenly drop a 500T load on the end of the chain (remembering to stand well back). Everything flys apart, both weak links shatter with the shock load and two bits of the rest of the chain shoot past your ears dangerously (the final part is still secured to the ceiling). Theoretically the main chain would break too but the very short time before the weak links break means that there isn't any time to do the work (force x time) to make the main chain break before the weak links give way and remove the force. In this case, the analogy for the main chain is the mains cable. Now, be happy that this worked as it should ... because you didn't melt any mains cable and you didn't have a fire. I think that mice don't nibble cable so much but rats and squirrels like to sharpen their teeth on everything. So best to remove the problem promptly.

I would add an electric towel rail in to the bathroom as well. Other than that it looks good to me

I think it will need packing out. You could use the Marmox type boards which are lightweight and easy to cut.

Some of these specific products are hideously expensive. Just use PIR, the slight difference on thermal performance can easily be taken care of with 10mm or 25mm more insulation. I achieved 0.094 with 300mm EPS and concrete. Simple and cheap.

You will need to remove the whole roof structure and start again tiles off, rafters off, ceiling down ceiling joists down. then you wil need all new rafter done to the correct spec for that span, the rafters either side of the roof windows will need to be doubled up to take the load. it will all need fixing down correctly, as you have removed the ceiling joists which are acting as a support for the roof and to stop it spreading. if you just remove the ceiling joists you will end up with your roof tiles sitting in the kitchen.

I realise these 2 are not using GSHP, but I was answering your 1st post, not your 2nd. Both these use(d) solar thermal. Simple trickle at CAT and, I think, evac tubes in Tony's House. I think he is a member here so he might pop in to the discussion.

You have rafters holding the roof tiles etc. the lower framework is there to fix the plaster board to. The vertical pieces could well be supporting the roof, is there a wall below that point?

Tony Cowling also has ISHS, I think. He described it in a recent AECB webinar. http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/

I have a small turbine. 1kW Chinesium special from AliExpress. Bought it as a punt a few years ago. It fell down in a storm and broke. Finally put it back up with a more solid mounting system in Jan… So far this year it has produced the princely total of 17.2kWh of energy. A whole £5.16. The brackets for the guide wires cost more. A good breezy day from the S-SE and I get about a kWh out of it in a day. To be fair, it’s not in an ideal location cos I’m in the middle of the countryside and I didn’t want to go nuts and fall foul of planning. It’s shrouded by trees on one side. As an engineering project it’s fine. Compared to my solar panels (5kWp) they do in a day what it’s done in 3 months… I’ll add more solar next.

Centre for Alternative Technology in Machynlleth did. The basis was experimental (and cheap, I guess!), so it (water-trickle solar roof over black-painted crinkly tin feeding a 100,000 litre - IIRC -thermal store which ultimately leaked) proved the concept very well. The store was a big hole lined with huge EPS blocks and lined with pond-liner. I believe the issue was that the liner used to extrude into gaps between blocks and pop! I believe the short-lived Earth Centre at Conisborough had an inter-seasonal heat store too, but I am not sure how well that worked.

Ok in this one I only used 2x 1.5mm via a double entry ferule but you get the idea. The two black wires on the left route to two - terminals on the PS+B

In the PS+B all The grounds are commoned together, so it doesn't matter which one you use for what. (Unlike say Rcbo where you need to strictly match circuits to use L and N from the same breaker) Obviously best practice is to keep your 24v circuits clean and match + and - connections as pairs in the PSU wherever you can, for maintainability However for the rgbw dimmer I slightly broke this and connected the negative terminal of the dimmer to all three of the corresponding- terminals on the PSU. It'd work fine with only one connected, but may hit current for a single wire / terminal. Happily the rgbw negative terminal is huge so easy to stuff 3 lots of 1.5mm2 into it. (I think I used one large ferrule for the whole lot) If you do this keep all the black wires the exact same length to encourage current to spread across them all. If one is shorter it'll favour that one (lower resistance)

You need to calculate the thermal losses, then find out the most effective method. Getting the floor right is probably the most important thermal engineering thing you have to do, not as if you can change it once a few tonnes of building are on it.

Little confused, you have said you are doing a passivhaus, there is nothing passivhaus about 0.18. You need 2.5x the depth with insulated concrete compared to PIR. Kingspan is just a brand name, plenty of competition in the marketplace. I bought online, it came direct from factory. I would limit my choice to either 300mm EPS, slip membrane, UFH pipes, the screed or concrete, circa 100mm will allow you use as as storage heater, thin more like a radiator. Or 200mm PIR in 2x 100mm staggered layers. Then as above. If you are doing UFH aim for 0.1 U value

Right. Not very good for UFH. Take the example where the ground temperature is 10°C (quite high) and a mean flow temperature of 35°C. 0.18 [W.m-2.K-1] x 1 [m2] x 25 [ΔT] = 4.5 W.m-2 of energy needed before you start heating the air in the room. So if your room needs 10W.m-2 you actually need to supply 14.5W.m-2. If you get the U-Value down to 0.1 W.m-2.K-1, you will only need to supply 12.5W.m-2, a 15% saving.

I've never met or spoken to a sepa person. I have often dealt with the EA though and have assumed they are similarly set up and empowered. They have all been knowledgable and professional. But EA are hugely under- resourced. Also they are civil servants and cannot comment personally. Hence the EA spokesperson on thd news asked to comment on flooding or pollution cannot say that its obviously due to building on flood plains/ government policy, the private water companies or whatever.

This would not pass Scottish requirements. Is this correct? I prefer to put the UFH into a big concrete slab, so would go for maximum insulation PIR or EPS, we used 300mm of EPS, nit 150PIR would be equivalent, and UFH in concrete slab. Then allow for a thin layer of latex self leveling. It will be cheaper than concrete and screed and IMHO gives better results. "People" use liquid screeds for speed of heat up, your building an insulated / Airtight house(I hope), so slow and steady will win the race.

Was it an incandescent lamp or a LED. If the former then it is entirely possible that the blub going will cause a current spike. Triping both the CU and the fuse is unlucky but not impossible given the right circumstances.

It is force (N, mass x acceleration) at a distance (m, metre). So Torque = Nm So basically, the longer the handle, the more torque can be applied. Power (W, kW) is torque times angular velocity (degrees/time, though usually expressed as radians/s) This is why a car engine gives maximum torque a little below the maximum power RPM and an electric car has maximum torque and power at 0 RPM. As for safety, just don't put the drill between your legs (if your are male, females I will not comment on).

An old-fashioned filament bulb? There’s often a big fast spike of current when they fail and a corresponding flash of light (think thermal runaway) which will take out fuses / trips etc. Not so much of.a problem these days since we don’t use many filiament bulbs. But … a big spike of current can still be a thing when electronic components: capacitors, transformers, resistors etc in modern LED assemblies, dimmers etc go pop.

TLA has twice the thermal conductivity of PIR. Much better off with 150mm PIR. Price comes in about the same once you account for labour for the PIR. Still need 50mm liquid screed for both.

If the fuse spur fails, at the time of failure is it possible it allows an excess amount of power through to the bulb which then fails? I suppose the CU is the final failsafe point, so it must have detected something wasn’t right and did its job. Just my guesswork.

Why ever not? I hadn't heard of this and planning is usually about the external dimensions. I don't think you answered why you need the upstand.

Do you have a circuit diagram somewhere - it should be easy to work out where the GND goes from that!? In general - and I would not advise it without understanding the LV circuits, you can safely connect all the 24V grounds together PROVIDED you are not in need of isolation IE you may have an DC-DC converter in there somewhere that has isolation as a feature and the you would not want to bridge out that isolation by commoning the 24V GNDs. You should NOT directly (indirectly via failover switching systems and / or diodes might is possible) common the 24V positives from the various power supplies under any circumstances.

I used DJP Finishes based in Tiverton/Exeter area. They made a very good job of our house.

I think you need to establish the cause of the mold first, leakage (internal or external) or lack of ventilation. Kitchens tend to be like bathrooms producing lots of moisture.

Sorry to hear that. Hang in there!

Nothing unsophisticated, just simple science, if you throw lots of kW of heat at water it will overheat, unless it's moved at a fast enough rate to carry the heat away. You are basically trying to heat up everything too quickly, the trv's shut off the radiators they kill the flow route. You get the blocking alarm. No heating no DHW until lock is released. You would have the same issues with any heating device, even bigger issues with a heat pump. The alarm you get is just a low flow alarm and it locks the boiler until resolved. Our last house was 200 years old most uninsulated thick stone walls and single glazing. We never ran the boiler over 60. The only time I had issues, was when I added timers and electric trv's to the radiators. Undid what I did, never had an issue again. Run a cooler temperature for longer, will fix nearly all your issues.

It also says “wherever possible”. There are ways to build close to the boundary without foundations, soffits or gutters overhanging. So if that can be proved to the LPA (where there are situations with less than 300mm), then that should be acceptable.

Same as the degrees ° is on an iPhone when you press and hold the zero … 😁

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Today we had a a giggle. We had Sharps out. We asked them to come up with a walk in wardrobe/fitted furniture for our dressing room which is accessed from our pocket doors in our bedroom. We were hoping to get some inspiration and use it as a starting point for ideas. We just asked for it to be open (knowing this would be the cheapest pricing) and maximise space. Completely uninspiring design, no suggestions, no creativity. So who wants to hazard a guess at pricing. The wall with the wardrobes on is around 3.7m and the wall with the shelves and draws is 4.5m. He didn't even attempt to put something in under the window along the right hand side because it seemed there was no specific configuration of units that would work from his book of units. Completely useless... So come on who wants to guess how much this creation would be?

I have got the Urban Concrete in a TV / office / spare bedroom multi function room. I battened out the wall to run cables behind and had the furniture floating(ish).