SimonD

Not quite. With the Worcester controls, you'll use something like the EasyControl with the Worcester smart trvs to achieve modulation. In this instance you'll get the Easycontrol to turn the boiler on/off with modulation and just use the trvs to control room temp via flow control to rads not boiler control. As soon as you try to add multi-zoning using 230v relay on a Worcester you lose the modulation capability. IMHO the whole design of Worcester controls is pretty flawed and technical support for the controls is a bit random. You can't use Tado or Nest with a Worcester unless you're happy with relay control, which defeats the whole purpose. You'll also need the hot water diverter kit to be installed to provide priority hot water with the 4000. With regards to Glow-worm, it's essentially a Vaillant, so you're better off considering Vaillant/Glow-worm controls as they're ebus - they're better than the Worcester, but you're stuck with what they've got. TBH, just like @JohnMo says, there are plenty of other boiler options out there that can do a better job. ATAG are now offering 18 year warranties on boilers, so well worth a look. Even an Ideal Vogue Max will be opentherm with 12 year warranty with a max accredited installer, so can be set up PDHW with the EPH priority hot water kit and the Ideal own brand Halo Heat & System also supports PDHW (but as I've found with a couple of installs the Halo is a bit buggy and tech support doesn't fully understand it all). Otherwise Viessman is a good option too.

It completely depends on the roof and the required detailing. Installing a traditional standing seam roof is very labour intensive because everything is literally made by hand from a coil. Your other option is to follow the path of quite a few on this site where they've bought the prefab versions that are delivered ready profiled on a lorry and some of which you can then diy after a little training. There's also the company Metal Solutions that can supply all the types of Standing Seam but also have a prefab service, so worth getting in touch with them.

I need to install a suspended ceiling and tiles in our utility room. Can someone recommend where to get them from - framework and tiles? Also, any links for actually designing and installing the framework correctly? Many thanks.

Bless the politicians, so they're doing a similar thing to how they classified wood pellets and subsidised their use only to find out the cost was the massive loss of ancient forest and biodiverity around the whole of Europe. So the farmers will be forced to sell their waste product but buy more fossil fuel derived products to replace the natural co-product?

You'll be surprised how even the smallest drip will cause pressure loss in a sealed system. Given it's a new system, this could be in any multitude of places which you can very carefully inspect. The other option is to pour some CT1 miracle seal into the empty radiator before you re-pressurise next time. Then see if it solves the problem.

Absolutely. At my recent pre-plaster inspection, the BCO commented on the high standard of workmanship and detailing on my build and said it was a breath of fresh air. He said I should have seen some of the developer and contractor stuff he'd been inspecting earlier - which was along the lines of a dogs dinner, the lot of it.

Now that's a sublime piece of carpentry there! 😁

This is why self-builders always move onto another build...eventually...even when they say they won't 😉 Just watch it, you've started down the slippery slope. Next it'll be a two-bed tree house in the forest somewhere and then before you know it,it's another passivhaus 😁

First, I think you need to go back to your Gas Safe Registered person and question why they've failed it because of this reading. Whilst the regs state a theoretically acceptable limit of a design pressure loss of 1mbar this can not be guarenteed in practice so in and of itself it is not sufficient grounds to fail a safety inspection on existing pipework. The important figure is the minimum required inlet pressure specificied by the boiler manufacturer, which is given within the MIs. With 18.87, you are nowhere near the minimum which with some boilers can be as little as 13mbar and with others around the 16.5 mbar mark. The only times a boiler is deemed to be unsafe is if the gas pressure has been proved to affect the safe operation of the appliance. Refer your Gas Safe person to IGEM-G-11 which they should know and have available on site. And finally, with such a specific measurement, the person has used a digital guage. They're know to be very sensitive,going up and down and under test conditions a varation of 0.25mbar is consider to be no perceptable movement so your measurements are so close to 19mbar anyway, they're not an issue at all. With the information you've given me, you don't need to incur any costs at all for pipework! Get a new Gas Safe registerered person who knows what they're doing. And yes, I'm Gas Safe Registered.

Hmmm, what does this place do to me? I'm going to take some images with my thermal imaging camera to see what's going on with our pans.

My absolute favourite tool of the build, one of a growing collection. Does everything from 90mm ring shank framing nails to full head stainless for cladding. Still need a hammer, mind you.:

Yes, absolutely agree. My point wasn't that one was better than the other. I followed the specification of my SE, who is a specialist in timber frame buildings, and especially glulam/steel hybrids, which is what we've got for our main structure. My main point was that despite the SE report, specifications and design, BCO still asked for bolts, which in my view is not correct but seems like an argument I could simply not get into because I had so many other things to contend with. However, organisations like NHBC allow for nailing or bolting, for example, and don't make any distinction between those differences other than to say the design should be followed. To me it's a bit like the debate between using screws to assemble a timber frame. I've seen builders locally ignore the design documents suggesting that screws are better than nails. Two carpenter/builders I spoke to about our project said they didn't nail (because that's old school apparently) but would screw it all together using 'high' quality Spax......

I don't think the distinction is in whether the pan is 'heavy bottomed' or not, but I do think it depends on the materials used to make the pan itself. We have a load of different pans ranging from very expensive stainless steel to cheap stainless steel with very thin bottom. Apart from one stainless steel pan that doesn't work at all, they all work very well on our induction hob. However, during our build we got a really cheap milk pan that was supposed to be induction suitable and it always throws up errors on the induction hod - it just doesn't like the pan. Looking at the pan, it appears that it is actually some aluminium alloy with some steel bits added to the bottom to make it induction suitable. I have recently dug out one of my proper carbon steel woks I used to use all the time, obviously designed for gas, and although it doesn't get the all round heat distribution up the sides,it actually works surprisingly well on the induction. So I think you just need to be careful about the material of the pans themselves.

You need something like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173392601070?itmmeta=01HVPAS3JSCEQWW0W4N0S9MHA6&hash=item285f011fee:g:GZIAAOSw3iBbPIJ5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Oi4iRCxolWsvQjUCvlAxPDUyJ3HyTZxdFxpdhyaGrAoHs2BVbE2YCn2QThLokXYEC63iTcC2vWnVJ6Z8c8XtTUQEpqojWLMkSweP4%2FWbGHz44bDxv0OzcpSHtlqM4LBJwbwFw5d7WIjF09hFcNMcxUImF3DCgqB2HPJ4i81AFdK8KSnbCX61prd6h70SYCFCD5%2BOz74t6WMDk0MpXif7XU0G2RfMLpHXxANb93zMKvw61hBHQcXspoZeXpAcf6%2FsvFLJ68Ka0ndH8XJaYzS%2FiNlk2S64HTwIa9kYkG4Zm9%2B|tkp%3ABk9SR9q55MrdYw Problem is you're like to lose the will trying to find the right size that fits yours.

Every hire company I've dealt with will either insist on seeing an insurance certificate to cover plant hire before opening an account and check that it has enough cover for the plant being hired, or they will offer you insurance, which will cost you. It would be pretty stupid for a hire company not to ask for proof of insurance in this business - one company i have an account with insisted on speaking to the insurers directly even after seeing the insurance certificate because they've been conned before. Question is whether you want to take on the risk of a piece of machinery worth at least £50k and any damage it could cause?