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SimonD last won the day on March 12

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  1. I'm not quite sure how I did it either. I'm sure there's a repayment lined up somewhere! My oldest son loves the mountains, so we're off to the wilderness of northern Sweden for a while, then mainly to Austria to explore there for the climbing, but as we're meandering, we'll be visiting France, Switzerland and Germany, possible nip over the Norway from Sweden too. Desparately need to finish packing, meanwhile I've got some backboxes and 1st fix cabling to do to that the bloody electricians 'forgot' so the plasterer can come in to finish boarding up and plaster a few rooms while I'm away - hard work this malarky
  2. I think you're working too hard. I'm now off to take my son around Europe for 2 months. My wife's not too pleased as she's got to stay home and work coz she's an employee.....
  3. It's possible. I was insured through Towergate for 2 years and now through Howden Insurance.
  4. Make the stud wall on the floor without fixing the osb. Then lift in place. All you need to start are some braces to keep the wall upright. Then once upright can you brace for square, straight and plumb. My advice is build the whole stud wall structure without the osb, that way it's easy to attach temp bracing and only once all sections are in place can you take the brace off. Start like this: To this: To this: To this: Then osb. All one man job (with 16 year old nephew to help get the glulams from the driveway... 😉 Then use nails for the stud walls.
  5. No, they work 😉, with just plain old plasterboardand even better double plaster board and even on internal timber cladding. You just need to have a decent cavity behind the plasterboard to get the fixings in. This is partly why to toggle clamps are great as they need less room behind the plasterboard but also you can remove the screw, or bolt (because they come in different thread sizes) and the fixing stays in place.
  6. I don't trust those. These are much, much better: https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/category/toggler-snaptoggle-plasterboard-anchors/1001 which I use to fix radiators to plasterboard. Or, I use these to fix towel rads to plasterboard (because they get pulled about with towels etc. which are solid as: https://www.geefix.com/
  7. My wife is constantly asking for a worktop that actually stands up to use and abuse without staining and deterioration and looks nice - noen of the ones we've had so far stand up to her test. I keep on telling her that the only way to got is stainless steel (barring a bit of scratching over time which I think is just natural patina). One, day I'll get my way, I'm sure. I miss stainless worktops. In the last place I did get some stainless faced drawer fronts that were really nice with oak.
  8. You highlight the biggest problem with combi boilers - and long runs from the combi. I always ask my customers who are considering a combi whether their use of water involves frequent small draw offs and in those cases, it's always more efficient to have a cylinder, or some kind of small hot water storage. Some combis with preheat help, but not by much.
  9. Do we need a pronoun signature, I wonder? If we did, mine would definitely be 'it' 😉 I'll go back to my cave so as not to cause further offense.
  10. This is a ridiculous idea, don't even go down that route. It's never as simple as people think to 'just' run a new gas pipe and then re-plumb the system for the 2 boilers.
  11. I've used the Heat Engineer calculator once for a new installation and don't recall there being any input for connections, but that was about a year ago now. I'm not a fan of the software - I did all my calculations for the system and then after a couple of weeks it all disappeared from my account with no records available. Won't be using it again as I also didn't receive any reply from one of my support messages which was actually about why my payment wasn't going through when i was trying to set up a subscription! I prefer my own spreadsheet which not only has a rough calculation section for strawman design which is surprisingly accurate, but I have complete control of every input I want and can really play around with it as I wish.
  12. Gas pipes need to be buried to at least 450mm under a driveway with light vehicular traffic. If you can't reach that depth then you need mechanical protection, like a concrete slab at least 100mm above the pipe. If you've got heavy vehicles, then you may need more depth, like 600mm. The pipework should be bedded in sand.
  13. The multiplication factors for rad outputs and connections are: TBSE 1.00 TBOE 1.05 BOE 0.96 You're fine with TBSE
  14. It depends on where you are and who you choose. We're not a million miles away but we are caught by the Bath premium (i.e. a license for all trades and professionals to bump their prices up anywhere between 20% and 300% or more depending on how much money they think you've got, which is always loads if you live in a particular group of post codes, not to mention a Georgian townhouse). All our architect fee proposals came in at about £8k to £11k to take us to design and planning, not including building regs/construction drawings or SE design. But this was way before Covid, so no idea where the fees might have got to since then. The only percentage fee we got was for a ridiculous 7% of build cost all in full services throughout but specified number of site visits. Best thing to do is get a few in to submit proposals for your project.
  15. I'll ask her about it when I see her in a couple of weeks and see what she says. From talking to her before, it's getting the pigments right that is challenging, but she' been making her own paints for years so has learned that dark art well.
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