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SimonD

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SimonD last won the day on June 27

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  1. MSE has a regularly updated section on when it's worth fixing or not: https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/utilities/-are-there-any-cheap--fixed-energy-deals-currently-worth-it--/
  2. Where does this still connected pipe go to on the engine or does it simply vent to atmosphere? When you took apart the tap originally was there any sign it could be a vacuum or pressure mechanism?
  3. Yes photos please. These Honday gennies are almost always fixable...when they need fixing. I've got an old one I bought nearly 20 years ago that was second hand even then. Still starts every time.
  4. Just to be clear, are you referring to the insulation below and just above dpc? If so, EPS will perform just as well if not better than XPS. XPS is still specified but there are many studies showing EPS performance v XPS, even below grade. What I can't tell you is if the way your builder has layered the two has an impact on moisture movement in the wall.
  5. 3-4mm all round should be fine. When choosing your glue, as mentioned use a D4 but do make sure it's of the polyurethane type that has some natural expansion as this will fill small gaps and voids - as advised by @MikeSharp01
  6. Yes, best not to go there, eah? As in a set screw type thingies? They don't use nuts and typically go into threaded components so the screw taxonomy gets my vote 😁
  7. Unless you go by the definition that bolts are used to assemble unthreaded assemblies (using a nut) and screws threaded assemblies, including when they're self tapping. 😊😉 Here is doesn't really matter if they're fully threaded or not. So a woodscrew is a screw unless it uses a nut....but then you have machine screws, that can and do use nuts...... I'll get my coat and leave the argument to all those more sensible than me 😁
  8. Good luck. Just ask if there are any other questions and I'll try and answer as best I can. I had no head for heights and was crapping myself when I was crawling all over the roof structure and roof to get it built. I've always had a problem with heights but this build has now pushed that discomfort from starting at only a few meters to when my feet are at 6.4m above ground - i.e. the height of my roof. I'd did buy and use a proper harness which helped. Now I'll quite happily hang off the scaffolding at that height which is probably the wrong thing for health and safety - Kwikstage scaffolding has great standards for shimmying up when you can't be bothered to go round to the ladder (hhme, perhaps I shouldn't admit that 🙂). One of the neighbours actually said to my wife that they were relieved when I stopped having to hang off the roof and scaffolding and they could now relax again! Strange to think self-build can actually be therapeutic! 😁
  9. Mightily kind words indeed. Always nice to receive feedback that what I've written is helpful!
  10. Really good questions, I'll try and answer them as best I can. Doing it myself was definitely not taken lightly and it wasn't easy by any stretch of the imagination, but at the same time it also didn't end up as difficult as perhaps I'd thought once I got on with it. My project is technically a renovation/extension so I didn't have any VAT questions to deal with, but I went for self-fit mainly because I got such a huge variation in quotations for the fit. Lowest was about £4.2k, the hightest just under £8k. None included lifting equipment and I knew I'd need lifting equipment even if it was just to get the windows across the front banking to the house. Having personally seen (and read on here about) poor quality installations, I cynically surmised that I'd be better off ensuring detailing was done on installation rather than once the installers had already legged it from site, or further down the road. I know someone who used a known reputable company to supply and install and have had years of headaches down to poor installation, a fight probably going all the way to the courts because every time the company promises to come and fix the problems, they cancel a few days before visiting, or don't turn up. If I did it myself I'd only have myself to blame! Another reason is that all my ground floor windows are fitted externally to the walls to sit within the new EWI. I needed some additional detailing information about this for the most appropriate approach. But also to put it into context, I have built the whole house entirely myself, with the only exception of a 2 man team and crane to install the steel frame. I felt I'd be cheating on myself if I got someone else in to do this 😁 I measured, and re-measured, and re-measured, and re-measured.... the as-built rough openings. I know this part is a worry for a lot of people but it's just about being careful with the tape measure and re-checking the readings. I went for 8-10mm clearance. This really wasn't a problem. I ended up switching supplier having received a final massively inflated quote from the supplier I'd originally selected. This meant a change from aluminium to timber sills and a change in position of the frames within the openings - I had to move the frames slightly out from the timber frame on the first floor. All the relevant technical details about minimum frame support were available from the manufacturer. Then, in terms of weathering, it was just a case of doing the math to specify to total cill extension needed for either the cladding or render portions of the house. The more difficult process was detailing the rough openings within the timber frame and the EWI as I couldn't find a great amount of easily available and reliable information about this in the public domain. I got some from the window/door manufacturer which was very helpful, but then had to spend a lot of time doing research on this. I made up my own window and door sill trays where necessary too. I also got some detailing information from the EWI manufacturer. This part of the process was fine but time consuming. I've used a mixture of expanding tapes and airtight tapes internally (on the bay returns and EWI), and Soudal's SWS window system which comprises and external sealant, foam around the frame, and then either an airtight internal sealant or the LQ airtight liquid membrane. As a note of experience from the inexperienced, I've used a lot of the expanding foam tapes from several different manufacturers in the detailing of the EWI as the EWI requires a lot of extra careful detailing around any openings that comprises several stages of weather protection. What I've found is that when it's the middle of winter and the tape has been in the freezer, you've got loads of time to install the stuff before it expands. In the summer, when it's warm and you're using the expanding foam tapes to fill between about 3 - 12mm, it's expansion rate means you've got to work really fast even if it's been stored in the freezer! In this sense, when working alone, I prefer using the Soudal SWS sealant so you've got all the time you need to get the window into the rough opening, set it all true and plumb, get it fixed and then seal it all up and once set, fill the gap with foam. JMHO. Another tip is to have a section of soft plastic tube on the end of the foam gun so you can push it full depth between window frame and rough opening to ensure full fill of the foam. For the smaller windows I made up a simple dolly and used vacuum lifters as hand holds. For the larger items, I made up a trolly using kwikstage scaffolding with wheels (I bought the wheels with the kwikstage scaffolding). On the trolly I made a lifting arm for a chain hoist and vacuum lifter so I could lift the window/door onto the trolly from the pallet, then pushed the trolley round to the lifting point - with the really heavy items like the french doors I towed the trolley with my mini dumper. For the heay windows I used a rented vacuum lifter hung on the end of the chain hoist but for the smaller units I used a Grabo together with some Faithful heavy duty manual vacuum lifters used as handles to make it easy to move and position the unit.
  11. So these are your risk points. The lime on its own should be fine for woodfibre but the risk is what paints have been used on the lime that might render it unbreathable. It's not unknown to find some so-called breathable paints that actually have an sd value equal to a 10 meter thick wall!
  12. Just saw this.... I found a really helpful 5min video on YouTube that went through the process of getting the thinning and other settings right - probably saved me hours of grief and only took a few sprays set it up in the end.
  13. As you've already suggested, you've tanked the critical areas and you're installing the boards to go over the top edge of the shower tray and be sealed. If you're putting the sealant on, apply it to the top of the shower tray and then fix the boards on top of that so that the sealant is squidged between the board and tray and then clean it up nicely. I went extra by also having a final silicon bead at the bottom of the microcement/shower tray but is probably not necessary at all going by the installation guidelines. +1 to using the fine surface treatment to fill all the screw holes and joints before applying primer and mesh and do use scrim tape for the corners rather than the base layer mesh. I've just done this on my new kitchen worktop and it was so much easier. Are you doing it yourself? Microcement kitchen worktop although i decided on this occasion not to make the sink out of microcement too - just couldn't muster the energy for that much. (It looks more blue on the photo than it is, which is a 'silver' grey).
  14. I would give the window lifting department at Hird a call. They were very good and helpful for me. Several options of vacuum lifters and potentially glazing robots. https://hird.co.uk/products/glass-vacuum-lifters/ https://hird.co.uk/products/glazing-robots/
  15. If you look at the steico buildups there is one key difference. In the first example, the woodfibre is bonded directly to bare solid brickwork and therefore it doesn't require breather membrane or vcl. In the second example a vcl is used because there is an existing internal render on the masonry wall. Because this internal render is not likely to be very vapour permeable or hygroscopic, the vcl is used. Otherwise you end up with a risk of interstitial condensation at the face of the internal render. Do you have bare solid brick or is your wall already lined with plaster to which you're intending to fix the iwi?
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