SimonD

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SimonD last won the day on October 16 2020

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  1. I have some cantilevers within my structure which are entirely timber, but they're not multistorey. You'll most likely get a structure that includes a steel frame component as part of the timber frame, like @Bitpipe has said. I didn't use a timber frame company but built the whole frame myself.
  2. I actually have one of those. It was a bungalow built mid 1920s. Ours is 1st generation cavity wall of all things. We bought it as a development property, and following professional advice (from several sources) decided to go for renovation and extension. Taking it from about 76sqm to 200sqm. I really do kick myself on many days we didn't explore knocking it down and building new, especially because we're building an energy efficient home. (the reality is that the planners probably wouldn't have let us knock down and rebuild but we'll never know). Sometimes these projects can be amazing and fun, but you really do need to love the house because you'll be problem solving all the way. This has been the most difficult part for me. In our last place we renovated a mid 1800s cottage and I loved it to bits. This one I didn't love so it has been much harder. However, I'm now getting to a different place since the windows went in and I'm really warming to it again.
  3. What period house is it? This will inform the choice of EWI and render system. If it's period property you may want to go down the route of using natural insulations with lime render. Otherwise an EPS EWI system, but you need to consider breathability for the sake of the building fabric.
  4. I've got something similar on my current timber frame, although that is sitting on an existing ground floor masonry wall. In our case the SE also specified Tapcon anchors through the sole plate into the masonry but our roof is curved so there's increased uplift. I think it would be okay to use resin fixed anchor bolts and then use mastic to seal around the penetrations. In the US, when they're aiming for high airtighness levels, they'll add an EDPM strip to the dpm/dpc layer below the sole plate. The brackets you show above are really just uplift restraints so if you do need additional fixing, restraint straps as @Mr Punter suggests would probably be easier to install.
  5. That was the orginal plan for this project - it was designed to have woodfibre insulation throughout. However, the supplier then tried to stiff me on the price, hiking it massively compared to the price given during technical design. I then changed the timber frame design and now we have sheepswool throughout; so it's OSB as internal sheathing that doubles as vapour control and airtightness layer, sheepswool between studs and then I've counterbattened outside the timber frame for additional sheepswool, beather membrane, battens and cladding. Overall it'll perform on a par with the woodfibre and saved me nearly £9k overall on insulation.
  6. I'm not entirely sure what you're getting at here @Russell griffiths. You're now saying something different from your OP which said: What I said was that 'sheathing' is the term typically used in modern timber stick framing to denote a structural component in the timber frame (which, by definition would be done with a proper fixing schedule). This provides the wall with its racking strength. It was to help the OP find the information he was looking for which he'd failed to find using the term "racking." If you don't use a structural sheathing board you do, of course, need something to provide racking strength. But generally speaking: Again from the Structural Timber Association: "The racking wall gains its strength from a wood-based board sheathing material or plasterboard lining material fixed to the wall studs which provides racking stability and sliding resistance by its connection to the horizontal diaphragms and foundations." (http://www.structuraltimber.co.uk/assets/InformationCentre/eb4.pdf) A mere search on google for racking or sheathing will tell you the difference in how those terms are generally used in this context. There are always exceptions and alternative ways to do things. On my current project I have an unusual structural design that uses structural osb lining boards on the inside of the timber frame with no external sheathing. What I've said has nothing to do with minimum or better standards, nor poor workmanship, it's about terminology. If at the end of the day you prefer to use "racking," that's fine by me. I just won't and will stick with "sheathing." 😉
  7. Splitting hairs there me thinks 😉 and potentially misleading and vague. At the risk of being pedantic "sheathing" is both common and formal parlence in modern stick framing. If you doubt what I say here are definitions of timber frame by: 1. TRADA: "Timber frame construction uses timber studs and rails, together with a structural sheathing board, to form a structural frame that transmits all vertical and horizontal loads to the foundations. (https://www.trada.co.uk/start-here/timber-frame-construction/)" 2. Structural Timber Association: "Design of timber frame wall panels The lateral stability of the studs against buckling is provided by either a sheathing material or from the provision of timber blockings i.e. noggins or dwangs at intermediate positions in the stud height, to allow fixing of sheathings or to provide lateral restraint about the minor axis of the studs" Resistance to horizontal actions is provided by the in-plane shear resistance (or racking resistance) of sheathed wall panels which are connected together to act as contiguous wall diaphragms. Racking resistance is covered in part 2. " (http://www.structuraltimber.co.uk/assets/InformationCentre/timberframeeb3.pdf) There really is no need to double up sheathing to both sides of the studs in most cases for domestic buildings, except perhaps under particular circumstances where you need a specialist shear wall.
  8. That's good to know! Edit, ours were rejected for this and I've just looked on our regional requirements which still contain this, even with the latest guidance dated 2017. Has there been more recent change?
  9. the irony of this is that if you then need to submit drawings to planning, for example, they'll be rejected with this note, but notes to the effect of scaling from 'figured dimensions' is okay.
  10. You can use something like this https://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/detail/sole-plate-anchor/408 - sometimes they're installed fully to the inside like an angle bracket.
  11. On our project, the only people to provide dwg where the company who did the topographical survey and architectural technician who I specifically asked to provide dwgs (as he did the existing site drawings). I think they're mostly worried you'll steal their drawings and use them for other purposes, or that you might unintentionally change something and cock up the drawing leading to a build problem. However, if you really want dwg files, you can import pdfs created by cad software back into a cad programme and go from there. It's also sensible not to fully rely on drawing dimensions as many of the larger general arrangement drawings can be 1:50. Many suppliers won't accept drawing dimensions other than for quotation purposes and insist on as built dimensions for production. In my case, I can tell you that with this project, if I had gone with drawing dimensions, both my steel frame and glulam beams would have been wrong.The steel columns wouldn't have been high enough and glulam beams would'nt have reached the end walls of the house. That's some professionals for you....
  12. I've never used a product like the one you've linked above which looks more like an acoustic product designed to reduce impact noise through intermediate floors. How this might work to get rid of squeeking noises I have no idea I'm afraid. TG floors will provide an excellent floor free of squeaks. In your current situation, as previously suggested you've already added fixings, I guess at minimum 150mm intervals around the edges and 300mm in between but even better if it's 'shit loads' 😁. You've also added noggings and you've checked as best as you can to see if there are any obvious gaps between joists and subfloor. The next options really are to either add a floating floor on top of the existing installation and see if that works, or take up the existing chipboard, check joist installation and then re-install an alternative subfloor, probably plywood to see if this rectifies things. I'd say that in the first instance it might be worth laying a large 8 x 4 sheet of plywood on top of the existing floor in the area you've gots squeaks to see if this helps. If this works you can then proceed with installing a floating floor otherwise do the drastic. It's really difficult to say exactly what would work without seeing it all in situ