Wil

They completely lost my outgoing tariff from the bill recently. Took an email to their helpline and my £148 bill has gone to £305 credit. They still haven’t provided me anything to validate that with and my home mini doesn’t seem to be reporting properly now.

Funny that my Tesla Powerwalls died recently out of the blue. Tesla took a month but replaced them with PW3s FOC through warranty. It seems to be their modus operandi.

I’m running everything, rads and UFH, at 18 today and most of the rads are sweating buckets. Where it’s an issue there’s a towel on the floor under the rad. Irritatingly I have a 10kW FCU to put in the loft but it’s sitting in the spare bedroom on my ‘to-do’ list. We’re night purging hard, then sealing up and running as above for these couple of days.

Glad we just bought ours ahead of this!

Thanks John. My system is a mix of both, so will leave alone for now 🙂

@dpmillerWhat do the PID settings do? I get the overshoot/ start range but haven’t fiddled with PID??

I’ve got 2 3ph ASHPs. Cables not particularly chunky as they’re running at less than 20A as the power is split across the phases. That was my main driver to keep the loads spread on my connection and avoid a huge peak consumption on a single phase which would exceed my 60A fuses. Yes they’re big. They’re 15m away from the house behind an outbuilding so noise isn’t an issue. Pipe runs were annoying but are what they are. 300m2 and seem to run at about 5kW heat loss at 3degrees outside temp. House is a bit of a frankensteins monster of new bit, well insulated and old bit not so much.

Yes, have one as the only source of heat in our en-suite. Initial switch from totally cold is approx 1 minute to feel the heat (mounted at ceiling level). It's on a 15minute timer and if it's triggered repeatedly it feels warm quickly. Not much use for a quick pee, but sitting down or having a shower gives it plenty of time to warm up. It'd be better if mounted on a wall as a mirror as the heat would be right next to you.

IR heaters in small en-suites work well. Particularly paired with a motion sensor for extract boost/hot water re-circ/ towel rail heating etc. You can get them as mirrored panels so you can admire yourself as you toast…

Very subjective. I have some 240V strips for outside which look good but are way too bright and need dimmed so end up with a box anyway. It can be quite remote though. Internally I’ve gone all 24V. Kitchens/ bathrooms etc so seemed ‘safer’ with a remote T/X. Think each situation will need assessed. For the love of god, get COB strips so you don’t get ‘dots’ of light (unless that’s your look….)

This can be done depending on the car- our tesla is recognised so we get IOG despite the standard dumb 7kW charger. Check the compatible car list 👍

Use PIR (or mmWave) in the bathrooms to switch the recirc pump? On only when room in use.

Are you having MVHR? Best to have the downdraft re-circulate into the island via carbon filters and do your air removal through the nice efficient MVHR if a new extension. definitely don’t want kitchen grease building up in a void under the floor. Where does the air go if you shove it into the void? If you do duct to outside put a good non-return flap on it- Our friends have a permanent towel over their hob when not in use.

The connectors on my CE unit burnt too causing all sorts of fun (including a RTB). Upgraded connectors solved all woes.

Hah, my builder’s plumber managed this on our recent UFH install too. Fortunately a quick swap because of his other poor work. You do worry about some trades… At least it’s an easy fix 👍