Jump to content

Jenki

Members
  • Posts

    132
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Jenki last won the day on May 29

Jenki had the most liked content!

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Location
    Preston

Recent Profile Visitors

601 profile views

Jenki's Achievements

Regular Member

Regular Member (4/5)

32

Reputation

  1. Move A to pick up the clay pipe at the corner of the extension, just below A and to the left. move the pipe connecting A closer to the new extension line, Id run that drain in the same trench as the footings. you may need a rodding point or IC at the rear corner of the larger extension box. Have you confirmed the clay pipe is where it is shown as dotted.?
  2. Hi. where in Caithness? We're building in Occumster nr Lybster. With reference to the concrete asbestos pipe, we ran our road over a 3" asbestos/ concrete pipe. We had to expose the pipe to confirm the depth luckily the pipe was laid in a blasted trench so we were given permission to continue. The connection was straightforward. Have you seen the wayleave documents for the pipe? If they haven't got an agreement the ball could be back on thier court.
  3. how about thin wedges, use two on top of each other (folding wedge) these are 1-3mm so you will be able to use these, then possibly solid glazing packers. on the diminishing gap. I think 0-3 mm will disappear with weight / sag / shrinkage anyway Or Grout (the same used to bed steel columns etc, it will flow, but you will require a moat, and some clean up after. You could use low expanding spray foam to "seal" the larger gaps, then a bead of mastic. The foam will stop spiders, but not anything that will want to eat it. https://www.gbplastics.co.uk/Products/Horshoe_frame_wedge_packer_glazing/WP1-3
  4. Alternative, depending how visible this will be, but rubber roof products can work really well. Edit... Discard this, sorry re-read the title of the post. This won't work don't know what I was thinking 🙈
  5. ++ For above. Stub stack durgo / air admittance valve. My suggestion to go parallel and a sweeping bend was due to being unsure where the beam and block in the extension was height wise . My solution only requires 5 inch. But if it fits taking a few courses out then great.
  6. You can pick up a dumpy level (optical) for 50/60quid, a cheap tripod and staff for similar. not difficult to get to grips with and very accurate. only issue is its a two person job. The rotating levels and receiver can be used by one person. This is my approach, I put a master stake in the ground and set some other slaves stakes dotted around at the same level with the dumpy level. Then use the laser on my own to do a lot of the setting out, I can always check the laser against the master and slaves stakes. Once happy I then re check with the dumpy level. takes a bit longer, but not as long as pouring concrete at the wrong level.
  7. I Think you will struggle to get this tight into the corner. You really need to use a swept rest bend at the bottom of a stack, this aids both solid and liquid to exit together, with sharp 90 deg. bends you can get separation of liquid from solid, i.e. leaving the solid waste behind, ultimately resulting in blockages. Poor drawing time... but this might work, run a rest bend along the internal wall(under the floor, then put a sweeping bend to exit in to the extension under the beam and block floor.
  8. The benefit of soakaways is to slow down large deposits of rainfall to help reduce flooding down stream so to speak. just letting it run can have massive consequences in lower lying areas.
  9. This is a flow meter, its used to balance the flow through the individual loops of pipe. In the above photo, I would suggest this, and the loop to the right are off. as the red disc is at the top. 0 (or close to zero) flow.
  10. My Pods are about 5 Cube, Slab and thickened edge foundation cast in one go (insulation on top to form a floating floor) even at £10/kg (which I think is more realistically £20+) that's £40 / cube or £200 extra, plus the extra Cube for thickening the slab (£100) so minimum £300 extra per slab. mesh is around £280 per pod. There is the labour side, but that's my time. When I looked for costs for these fibres I was getting prices of £22 to £30 per KG. so old school it is - this is typical UK construction resistance to change and adapt - costs money. - I was asking a few builders merchants if they can supply large qty's of EPS 300 and EPS70 for my DIY insulated foundation and the response - its too cold up here so we don't use Jablite.
  11. Ok, to close this thread. @saveasteading and @Gus Potter suggested Fibres as an alternative . The main house slab - Sika advise that as this is an insulated raft Fibres are not a suitable replacement for the A142 / A252 mesh as it is not a ground bearing slab. For the two pods, they were happy to supply a spec for these, if Increased the slab depth by 50mm to 150mm. I did this, and the result was to use 4KG of fibre per M3 of a HPP50 fibre, (initial goggleing suggest £20 / Kg) so the upshot is little saving. @GavH Allan's of Gillock have provided a reasonable quote inc delivery. - Thanks A142 - £5.90 / M2 A252 - £9.28/M2 as of June 2022
  12. It's easy to chase out the insulation when your looking at the back of the board. But to first fix, and then start chasing out the boards to suit before you fit them will end up a PITA.
  13. Excuse the poor cut and pace job, but I still see issues with Air tightness. At the sides of the doors where the pocket is, when the doors are closed there will be a gap internal and external into the pocket void? maybe "sealed" with brushes, and wipe seals? but not air tight. You will also have 2x width of sash opening internally waiting to accommodate the opened doors? what do you do with that space?
  14. I'd recommend AC50, not as cheap as veg oil. But amazing stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...