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8.5kW at 230V is 37 amps. It will be the over current function that is tripping, not the RCD function. Replace it with a 40A rcbo.

I’m going to be a bit more positive here and say yes it’s going to be more expensive but not necessarily prohibitively so, but with the caveat that site location and ground conditions are the over riding factors. Much easier to basement into a hillside than boxed in on all sides, big hole with battered sides is much easier and cheaper than sheet piling, big Big much away unless you can loose it on site, plus many more factors like drainage, access etc.

It’s because they use air-air on retrofit and underfloor exclusively on new build.

Full details of costs, all labour by myself, so not costed Panels 12x 285W, used £700 £40 fuel to collect panels Inverter £150 Posts and postcrete. £400 Unistrut, £300. 4 core cable and three core cable £300 Isolators AC and DC, generation meter, stickers and MC4 connectors, £99 M20 glands £2.50 M25 glands £30 Coach screws £9 M4 bolts and nuts £9 Square plate washer £13 M8 Allen bolt £18 Panel mounts £32 DC cable £70 MC4 connectors £7 So cost all in £2210, for a fully installed ground mount 3.4kW PV system. Array mounted 52m from inverter.

If you have teenage children who like over-long showers, and a sufficiently Machiavellian mindset, is this an opportunity for lifetime indoctrination to short showers? Just asking .... 😇.

When did you purchase the terminal blocks? You have at least 14day money back on them, likely more. I'd be looking at that option myself

Electrician. Test the RCBO on tripping current and ramp test 0 and 180deg. Check cable for insulation resistance,measure current draw etc. plumber will check there's water then he's stumped 😂. Q What's the shower rating, cable size and RCBO rating out of curiosity ? It does sound like a thermal overload. So the answers to my question might point to the issues.

Time to chill a little if you can, do you have a cross section drawing of that wall etc, it’s difficult to visualise what we are dealing with here.

Have you considered a smart lock? I don’t know if it would work for sure but may be worth looking into, indoor lock with some kind of control panel/keypad outside, change the code for each guest?

Thanks. The brickwork was indeed done really well, as was the majority of the work, which is why this f&£k up has come as such a surprise. I think part of the problem was that to make a long story short, the parapet is where two different tradesman’s scope of works meet. One tradesman was doing the roof membrane, that was meant to overlap the parapet, the other tradesman was effectively responsible for everything else, ie the rest of the house. To make matters worse, I think the design was very ambitious, because it didn’t use the aluminium profiles you mention on the rear elevation, just on the parapet walls at the side elevations. (And those parapet walls are free of mushrooms!) So to work, it had to be executed meticulously. But it wasn’t. To answer @joe90’s question, I think small errors were made by all parties involved, including me as ultimate project manager. Enough errors that if I challenge any of them on it, they will just point the finger at the other tradesman and we will all just fall out, so it’s probably not worth going on a witch hunt. As long as it’s not too expensive to resolve, I rather keep people onside so that they can help me resolve it. @Mr Punter I’m considering utilising an aluminium profile to cap the rear wall’s parapet, and would be interested to know which type you recommend. Do the ones you’ve used have an integrated drip profile?

I was looking at the providers over Christmas as I need to test what could-be-artex-but-is-probably-textured-plaster. https://www.bradley-enviro.co.uk/services/asbestos-consultants/asbestos-sample-testing is the cheapest I found, and I checked out their lab accreditations to make sure they can do what they said.

The asbestos test kit I ordered on Amazon UK cost £34.95, includes UKAS lab testing fee, you send a sample back to them, they do the testing in the UKAS lab & send you certification of the results back by email. It’s just your standard UKAS lab asbestos test kit widely available!

And if they do you can appeal, I did and won and it’s not difficult.

my 120m2 basement cost £100k in 2015 so no more expensive, But there would be no windows, and various other simplifications. If it's a garage or plant room, of course it is plainer. The muckaway cost itself could be very high ( location) , but is possibly shown elsewhere as site prep. 120m2 x 3m x 1.3 bulking. say 500m3 or 25 lorries to load, transport and tip.

If you have decent ground conditions and you want it to be fully habitable space you could budget costs of 1.5 x the going rate per m2. The finished value is likely to be about 75% of the above ground value per m2.

Double the cost of the whole building. Treble the cost of any one storey. Plus I, as a contractor, would add risk money. Anything that could be a problem is multiplied. That also assumes a clever and practical design. I was looking into a hole while on holiday (as I do). This was a deep excavation for a basement. But a it was in a dry area of Spain, with no water table concerns, and self supporting sides, they just dug a hole and used clay block-work for the walls, and the usual concrete frame holding it all up. That will still cost more than an upper floor, but not much. In central London, dig a basement. Perhaps central Edinburgh where it isn't rock. Elsewhere, no. I've done one. Not good value but the client owned the site and wanted more space. Plant and kitchens went in there. It was a pain throughout, especially as it, being watertight, held the rain in.

£100K - there's some numbers here on BH somewhere - err, search for 'basement'. I can't remember whether that's the incremental cost or the whole caboodle. >>> such as ground type Actually, that could make a big difference - if you're on soft clay and going to have to dig deep foundations anyway, then the incremental cost for the basement will be less. If you're on hard rock...you get the idea. p.s. I see I have 1.2 £K/m^2 as a rough number from one of the threads here.

Indeed, I've been told to keep to the centre when drilling through them.

Been there. Done that: About 120 square meter building: Smoke detector in porch(through door to) smoke detector in lounge(through door to) heat detector in kitchen, and smoke detector in upstairs landing connected by open stairway from the lounge with the smoke detector all interlinked.

I've recently fitted some slotted concrete fence posts, I cut a couple and they had four lengths of rebar, one near each corner.

I know him also

The regs are different in Scotland, they were not needed in each bedroom just on a landing and within 3M of a kitchen door. I put a couple of extras. Utility room, I want to know if the tumble dryer is smouldering. Plant room / workshop above the garage, it is so far from other rooms I want to know if anything is going on in there. Kitchen /diner was just covered by the one heat alarm. Aico do a heat and CO alarm all in the one package that made things neat in the kitchen diner (gas hob and WBS so needed CO)

How much have you got? Because it will take it all and then some!

x2 times more than GF. But sooo many factors.

Hoover thoroughly, bin the bag, 10min wipe down... Move on!! This really is not a big an issue as you are fearing! If you'd been doing it for 6 months and have just realised, it's a very different story, but something like this barely registers in my book. There are millions of properties out there with asbestos in them, what you did will be done a 1000 times a day, most without anyone even knowing!

Maybe if I use one of those post fittings and turn it upside down on top of the post. Drill through it and bolt it down, then I have a platform to work off of....thinking.

Evenn If its asbestos, I can imagine you were breathing it in, any more than with plasterboard dust. Mist of it us cement, and that type of asbestos is low risk. Damp cloths to pick up and remains. And relax. Do get the test done.

Just dump the vaccum filters / bags etc and wet wipe clean. No harm in getting the carpet shampooed. No need to replace! Remember the risk from asbestos is direct inhalation of fibres. Cement bound is far less risky, as even the liberated fibres are still attached to cement particles.

Air-air has to be the answer to both these issues. Push button, heat comes out.

Well of course they do. Its free money from government. Many of said companies are set up with that sole purpose, and will disappear the minute grants are switched off. Its not like there isnt any previous history with this sort of thing.................................................................. The only thing that continues to surprise me is how everyone on here continues to be surprised by this The primary goal of the govt subsidies, for ASHP like PV before it, is to stimulate an industry of installers, and to make it worth the effort of getting the training and setup businesses in this space. That is very clearly an invitation from governments for the installers to take a lion share of the subsidy. This is just not my interpretation, a friend is a senior civil servant in the dept of energy (or whatever it's called now) and stated it to me. Making it cheap to install is pointless if there's no one trained up to install, or maintain them long term. Yes the whole things leaves self builders/self installers hung out to dry, which stinks, but we're a super tiny fraction of the big picture and not the intended market for it. I don't like it any more than you do, but there's little point getting het up about it as however unhappy it makes you, it's not going to change. Obviously the long term risk of this is industry collapse when the subsides are removed. Hopefully they learnt from PV and can taper the subsidy over a longer period on a well published timeline. And hopefully pigs can fly

We have a well insulated 160 sq m house with an Ecodan 8.5kW ASHP. Cost was £10000 less the then £5000 govt grant for the supply and fit of the heat pump a 210 litre hot water tank, buffer tank plus all the associated pipework towards the manifolds. This was fitted in Sept 2022.

It is the way they work. While it is possible to make a heat pump modulate as much as you like, you loose efficiency and reliability. It is a bit like modulating an open fire. You can put less fuel on it, which reduces the thermal output, but at the same time, it reduces the temperature difference, which causes the smoke to rise less. Eventually there is no air movement up the chimney and the room fills with smoke.

This ^^^^^ The things people on this forum do to manage and optimize their ASHP are far far beyond what any normal people will do. Indeed, well beyond what a lot of installers will do. If, when people turn on the heating, heat doesnt occur, then as far as they are concerned its not working. Iceverges point about intermittently occupied houses is a very good point as well. If you have a pooly insulated house, and you only turn on your heating for a couple of hours in the morning, and again in the evening, then i could well see why a ASHP, even well specced and installed will either cost way more to get house comfortable during hours of occupation, or, operated like the gas system, then it will be rather cold as the heat wont arrive when its required.

I used to have a couple of these in different sizes and found them invaluable for working on stairs. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-4-section-aluminium-folding-ladder-with-platform-3-30m/602kk

You need long term exposure drilling a few holes won’t kill you, relax a bit. Ive removed dozens of asbestos roofs from garages, long before we knew the risks, 35 years ago, I’m not dead yet. Lesson learned do a bit of checking in future. Hoover a bit more and chuck the filters on the vac away.

I don't really like to multi-position ones but I have a Little Giant Velocity ladder which is brilliant:

Asbestos is nasty stuff, but I really wouldn't worry in your situation. It's prolonged exposure that rapidly increases your risk catagory. A one off minor exposure is pretty small in the big scheme of things. How many home owners drill through it without realising then clean up the dust etc... Its common stuff unfortunately! I had asbestos removed from our place using a small firm, and the guys had a face mask and coveralls on, but we're pretty casual hanging around it during breaks or to talk without the mask on, even though I thought around the back of the van etc there could till be airborne bits... When considering it's their job I was surprised.

A: Zero. If you're not doing it yourself, it's not self build. A: Three. One to change the bulb, two to bitch about the architect that put it there.

The triple height Wago 2002-3201 that I use will fit in a standard depth FA enclosure if you mount the DIN rail directly on the back with no spacers. The last LXN5 I built was fine with these Wago's and there should be clearance of about 10mm behind the front cover. Also, you can gain another 7.5mm of depth by swapping the standard 15mm deep DIN rail for a 7.5mm deep one if necessary

So how do they remove the existing ceiling light 🤷‍♂️. Not what the OP is asking.

We all know it csan be done. But frquently just isnt. The most recent one was just outside kidderminster. Wall had to be 10 meters high. Circa 100 meters long. They were slowly working their way along on an adhoc basis. Sometimes nothing would be done for a couple of weeks. But huge areras of wall with the wool fitted and no outer cladding, all exposed to the emements. And its been a touch wet. I cant see how wall of that size is going to dry out anytime soon once the outer skin is nailed on. The idea that you can built a 10,000 sqft warehousde with this method, and it not get wet is laughable. Its the UK. It rains. A lot. This year all the time. 2 years ago we needed to move warehouses. In the end we got something built in the 60's with just about zero insulation. But looked at few inc new build. Leakpaths? everywhere. Could see daylight past window frames, feel the breeze past the trims at the corners. Could see sunlight peeping through the wall to eaves trim. My gripe, same as always, is all these standards are utterly useless if what is built bears little relationship to the design. All those expensive composite panels, defeated by simply not joining the walls together. I wouldnt mind betteing there were no seals on the panel joints either. So buildings are being built where the stated performance and actual performance, and hence energy consumption are miles apart. Nobody cares or accepts responsibility. So long as the boxes are ticked, its all good to go. Think of all the composite panels that have been manufactured, with all the chemicals and emmisions that entails that are simply doing nothing due to poor workmanship. Bonkers.

We have the same, and I really like it. Every bedroom, my study and the lounge has this. It is extra cost to do, but worth the convenience in my opinion. Particularly as I’m not much of a fan of ceiling lighting, so much of our lighting is a cocinaron of wall lights, table and floor lights.

I thought I was the only one that actually used 3W bulbs. I feel a bit decadent as I currently have two on.

Of course we have one, just that the search facility on here is so bad we would be better of getting rid of it and just putting a link to Google up.

Something I know a lot about. Industrial buildings vary. At its simplest it is keeping the rain off, with no need for any insulation. eg a waste handling shed. A timber warehouse actively encourages airflow . Avoiding condensation dripping from the roof may be allowed for with the tiniest amount of insulation. At the other extreme are high quality retail eg you don't want any cold or damp in a sofa shop. ditto call centres and offices, although called 'commercial' rather than industrial even if built much the same. In-between there are any level of air-tightness and insulation that may be appropriate. Composite panels to achieve a B rating will probably be 200mm thick, very expensive and requiring a lot of lorries. Then they have to be fitted by crane. thus a built up system becomes favourable. The labour is reduced but not enough. For a more background amount of control, a 60mm or 80mm panel can be used, but this may need supplementary insulation inside. Do they get wet and stay wet. Yes. they shouldn't though so this is workmanship and supervision to blame. In reality, the insulation is laid just before the top sheet, and isn't sitting in the rain for long. On a day like today they should not be laying insulation rolls, and i doubt if anyone is. They will be on the ground sorting panels, preparing flashings or reading the paper. On walls of built up cladding, the outer sheet is not sealed, so any damp will dry out. As appropriate. There are proven standard details for air-tightness, and the air loss is part of the SBEM analysis, when required. @Roger440Where do you think the leak paths are? i'm happy to expand on the above if you want. On a barn conversion i would likely recommend 80mm PIR composite panel, with additional insulation inside. OR built up system, probably 150mm, and again some inside supplement. OR an osb roof on timber rails, then spacers and the metal cladding only keeping the rain off, and lots of insulation inside.

So time for a "finished" couple of pictures. First the outside finished and with all trimmings. The whole design idea of the slim door framing with the door opening going right to the corners worked well. Framing a bifold door with a track across the top is a lot harder to get right than an ordinary door. I started with the door track fixed direct to the 3 by 2 framing, i.e. not a finished surface. I then fixed 12mm Oak trimmings either side of the door track to give the finished surface to the top of the door frame, effectively making the track recessed into the door liner. Otherwise just fitting the door track to the finished surface of a normal door liner would have looked horrible. The slim moulded Oak profiles to finish off the edges worked well as conventional architrave would not work with this door right to the corner idea. Then there was the shelving for the inside of the short wall. I was looking for some shallow shelving for tins, jars etc. We ended up with this. This is shelving units quite cheap from Temu. They do them as solid flat shelves or baskets. The flat shelf ones work best being exactly 2 tins deep and 4 tins wide each. 2 more are on order so when they arrive, this will be re jigged to give virtually floor to ceiling shelving with the baskets at the bottom and the solid shelving ones higher up.

This is essentially a balcony window, it has standard window hardware and not a multipoint locking system. I'm rather surprised they said they didn't have anything as it's basically a French door, you'll have a lever to open the secondary window. A French door is the same thing, just slightly bigger frames on the sashes. It can be changed, it's a bit of a ballache but it can be done but it does mean you need new sashes and someone with a bit of knowledge on how to do it. I can gaurantee they'll say it can't be done but it can.

Flow rate is set per loop length, there is no need to have the same or similar loop lengths. Salus self balancing a actuators will balance the system for you, on a fixed dT, just add one per loop. I have used both mechanical and electronic mixers and prefer the electronic ones. By electronic I mean 3 way valve and actuator controlled to a set or varying temperature. The reason I like, is that they always provide a good recycle flow back to the boiler and only mix when required not all the time. Is UFH right for you? Home all the time and happy with heating nearly all the time it's great. Away all day and heating off don't expect to warm before you go to bed. UFH in bedrooms is rubbish, either not warm enough or too warm. Avoid. Can you existing boiler do weather compensation? If so S and Y plan should be avoided, consider X plan or priory hot water. Low temp radiators or fan coils, would be my vote doing it all again.

Yes, 100%. There is a new(ish) timber frame Premier Inn near me with this detail. I can see it from my office.

Well done, yes trim the edge insulation but never hurts to keep a DPM upstand, it can go up behind plasterboard, plaster and skirts etc. stops any spilled water going where it’s not wanted and adds adds air tightness around the perimeter/through stud walls etc.