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About Rob99

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  1. @Hilldes the way the 110 block works is that you insert the 4 pairs of each cat6 cable into one section of the 110 block, one core into each section and push it down with an IDC tool. You then take the small seperate blocks and push these down onto the 110 blocks over the first set of cables. You then connect the bottom layer of cat6 cores from the connections on the top of the seperate blocks to wherever they need to go. There is a useful video here which shows what I mean about inserting the small blocks on top of the 110 frames.
  2. @Hilldes you could use a large 110 block like this. The 300 pair kit is a good price as it includes the colour coded connection blocks, but you can make up any size you need in multiples of 50 pair. You can then mount them inside a plain plastic enclosure, similar to this type
  3. I went the Ubiquiti route about 8 months ago replacing my mismatch of wifi routers and access points with a Dream Machine Pro and 2 Wifi 6 Lite AP's. Have to say, once set up and configured (several VLAN's etc) it's been faultless running 24/7 since install. What it has highlighted is how absolutely rubbish my Virgin modem box is with drop outs and slow speeds, even on a 350Mb connection. For the most part the reliability has at least reduced the previous constant whining from my kids about how bad the wifi is.
  4. The cable rating should be marked on the reel. If not, I'd be concerned about authenticity. The cable itself should also have writing on it. Generally 0.5mm2 is 11A, 1.0mm2 is 17A and 1.5mm2 is 21A. Note these are max values and derating factors will need to be allowed for. As @Dan F has done, you need to consider what appliance it is you're powering at the end of the circuit.
  5. Orbit ceased trading this rate we'll all be back to the 90's with a choice of 5 or 6!!
  6. Triple height are Wago 2002-3201 with 3 levels of connections. So, for example, if you use 5 terminal blocks in a group then you get 1 set of 5-core RGBW connections at each level. With double height terminals you can connect 2 RGBW for every 5 terminal blocks, or 3 RGBW if using triple height. Hope that makes sense 🙂
  7. Yes, use double/triple deck terminal blocks. I use the Wago 2002 range which are the push in type (screw terminals are a pita) and are 5.2mm wide. You can mount the DIN rail to the back of the cabinet if you need to create more depth for the terminal blocks. You can get around 100 of the Wago terminal blocks on a single LXN DIN rail. Why 4-core? For RGBW you need 5 surely. Again, use the same double or triple height terminals, in blocks of 5 to connect all cores on a single level. For example you only need 10 triple height terminals to connect all 6 RGBW. Wow, thats a lot of cat6! Do you need all 224 cores to connect into your cabinet, or just some of them? I would terminate cat6 outside the cabinet on a patch panel or a 110 block and then only bring into the cabinet the cores you actually need.
  8. Where I have RGBW dimmers in the cabinet I use fused terminal blocks - Wago 2002-1681
  9. Ah that's interesting. Just checked my LXN4 and it has an earth busbar at the top. It's 3 years old so maybe they have slightly changed the design with fewer options on location now. I also have an LXN6-D which I'm building which seems to have tapped holes everywhere!! To be fair I've never yet built a panel which doesn't require some element of adaptation.
  10. All FA cabinets have busbars for earth (and neutral), so that's where I terminate the CPC (earth) of the T&E. You may not see them in pictures as sometime they are fitted at the bottom but there are tapped holes for them to be fitted at the top too.
  11. They're located on pins and not soldered to the pcb. You can slide them off fairly easily. I use mainly the 2002-2201 terminal blocks, stated as 2.5mm2. These are fine to use as even using 0.5mm2 stranded tri-rated cables fit very nicely in the terminal blocks when you use ferrules
  12. The Wago 243 connectors are not designed for stranded cables and, in my experience, you can't fit a ferrule into them. The smallest ferrule for 0.5mm2 cable is too big. For Tree/Link/DI connections you only need to use cat6 twisted pair cabling (or equivalent)
  13. These are Wago 243 connectors and you just twist and pull to remove the wires, although you need to be a bit careful as sometimes they can break and then you can't remove what's left easily. They are quite cheap to replace and I always have a stock of spares. See 1:16 of this Wago 243 video for wire removal instruction
  14. I ended up with a smart plug from local bytes which comes pre-flashed with Tasmota and controllable through Loxone virtual commands. Works fine for switching things on and off but haven't yet been able to get the power monitoring data into Loxone, although haven't really had much time to investigate. I also like the fact it has a button on the side to operate the relay manually which can be more convenient when I'm standing next to it than using the Loxone app.