Rob99

You should start by using the project planning part of config. Input all of your room, circuit and equipment details and you can automatically create a complete config file. It will create most of the blocks and logic for whatever you have said you need and put them on separate pages named for the rooms. It’s not perfect but will be easier than creating everything from scratch. You then just go through and make changes or add additional logic.

Just a heads up - you can only configure the miniserver network settings in the first hour after powering up. Beyond that you will need to power cycle it to make any changes.

No. Hybrid inverter will disconnect itself from the grid automatically when it loses power and will only reconnect when the grid connection is restored. They are designed this way and only approved for connection to the grid on this basis.

In my case, I use them on cat6 when they are going into screw terminals to provide a bit more for the screw to hold on to, but as @Dan F said, not necessary if they are going into push in terminals.

I use 0.5mm for cat6A

Looks fine to me 👍

Which SSR's did you go for?

1.5mm2 tri-rated is rated at nominal 21A but you should derate that if you are bunching cables together. Sounds like your sparky knows his stuff though. Besides you have to keep below 16A if you're using the Loxone relays, or 10A on the miniserver relays.

Yes, all the earth connections are made with the earth bars fitted to the back plate of the enclosure at the top/bottom. The main issue I see is that you need a way to distribute the RCBO feed to the relays but without the triple height blocks you can't do this at the terminal block end. It's not an ideal solution but one option would be to take the RCBO feed and loop it across to one side of all of the relays which link to that RCBO so that when you wire the other side of the relay back to the terminal block you are effectively feeding switched live into each terminal block. Your neutral would then be commoned across the terminal blocks.

If those are double height terminals on the top DIN rail then you won't be able to use them to distribute power from the RCBO, through the relays and out to the individual circuits as there aren't enough connection points. I use triple height blocks for RCBO fed circuits. The Live connection sequence needs to be....... RCBO >> Terminal Block >> Relay >> Terminal Block >> Circuit. To achieve the correct connections, the RCBO Live feed goes to the top level and is commoned across all terminals at that level. The RCBO Neutral feed goes to the bottom level and is commoned across all terminals. The Live to each relay goes from the top level out to the relay and returns to the middle level. Circuit connections on the outgoing side are then made at middle level for the switched Live and bottom level for the Neutral. Hopefully this might help:

If there's no connection of those cores at the other end I just keep them the same length as the Orange/Green pairs and then coil them round the screwdriver shaft and tuck them into the back of the box. If they're left inside the back box they are easy to find later if needed. If they are behind the box in the wall space then you might need to remove the box to get at them, possibly damaging your decorations.

Yep, you can just push them in and out once and they should snap off cleanly, no cutting needed

I always do ferrules at both ends. Keeps it neater and straightforward for anyone else making wiring changes later on.

These are the labels I use

I've never used the label holders. I just use the standard individual pre-printed number tiles which click into the top of each block. I seem to remember it was a pain to identify the correct wago product reference as there are several different types and most online stores also get confused about which ones fit the 2002 series. I'll have a dig around in my panel build box and check which ones I used.