Roger440

Sounds like a "misinterpratation" of something. Just had mine done and its more than 5m away!

garagejournal.com flooring section will give you plenty of ideas!!

I investigated it some detail for retrofit in the cavity in my old house. Couldn't convince myself of any other system, especially has the bricks were rock hard, so much more likely that drivng rain would come through the mortar joints. I seen to remember it was £8K to do the whole house up to the roof. The other spinoff was air tightness improvement on an old house. The worry i had though was where the joists went through the wall, there were gaps. Lots of them. Realistically, they would need filling/taping before doing it otherwise loads of the stuff would fill up under you floor! Much easier on a new house where that problem wont exist. Ive toyed with doing it at my new please as there is a degree of flood risk, but the front half of the house is solid 9 inch wall, so probably wasting my time as that will fillup with water anyway! Just going to concetrate on re-plastering with lime, so it can just dry out again.

That link is wrong on so many levels. The new rules coming into force do not mean your septic tank is no longer legal, UNLESS its discharging to a watercourse. Their proposed worms are for the soakaway. If you have a soakaway, then the new rules dont apply. Plus of course, id like to see anyone prove that the worms have made a system compliant for discharge to a water course. Do they have an EA cert for this? Errr, No Irresponsible marketing and taking advatage of peoplesognorance.

Interesting. This i assume is because its resistant to water unlike plaster? I was going to do mine in lime, so after its got wet it can just dry out. Hadn't though of doing it this way.

When you say rendered, do you mean inside or outside. Assuming outside, what did you do on the inside?

Im unclear how you think this wont cause damp issues? Where will the moisture currently exiting the wall go. Assuming you have no dpc of course.

The OP doesn't say ifit has a DPC or not, but id guess not. In which case it must be a breathable solution. Anything gypsum/cement based will very likely cause damp issues. Indeed i have this problem, where the walls were covered in some sort of board with, in places a void behind, leaving nowhere for the moisture to go. This applies equally to exterior. Mike wye and theres another who escapes me do all this stuff. https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/lime-plaster/ The key on old buildings is dont try to stop the moisture, you will fail. Unless you fancy retrofitting a DPC.

As Dave said, perculation test as a matter of priority, ie, BEFORE you buy it. If you cant install the required soakaways, you cant build!

You can get cavity wall insulation that goes in as a liquid and then becomes, effectively expanding foam. Aside from some of the obvious advantages, it fully waterproof and ones of its claimed features is for use in flood prone houses. So it would be full fill and flood proof. Arguably, you could just do the 1st meter, then normal cavity insulation from thereup. Its expensive! https://www.completeinsulations.ie/spray-foam-cavity-wall-insulation/

Im with you on this!.News to me too.

By that would i be correct in assumimng inside the CU it would no longer be necessary?

Mainly because as they run up the wall, they will have to do a 90 degree turn which will look awful as they will stick out. It certainly a very visible area. Then of corse the same again inside. Currently its a plastic CU, though i guess i could change that. Even if i came in closer to the floor, ive still got to turn a 16mm cable through 90 degrees. I suppose could try going through at an angle, but its conventional brick and block with cavity. Still look crap though.

Thanks for the pics. Follow the logic on heatshrink on the single conductors. Hadn't thought of that. Like yours its all "inside" the cupboard with electrics in.

Im guessing thats the basis for the argument?