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Invoice now reissued without VAT. A load of hassle for not very much. He's trying to get 100% of the balance of the job tomorrow too, but we are paying half of what's left, 25% on arrival on site of kit and the balance when the job is completed to our satisfaction.

Or anti freeze valves, at around £100 each.

Agree they all look approximately the same and largely do the same thing but you need to ensure that you can get all the functionality you need from the range available. We are just going through this and in three locations I need 4 double boxes and a single to achieve what I need (2x13A, 2xCAT6, 1x5A, 1xTV aerial and 1x twin Audio plate) depending on range I can combine some of these or not and then there is the switches. Makes a difference to the socket real estate and so the range choice you have. EG MK do not do a Wifi controlled wall socket and have no plans to make one. Scolmore 'new media' has every sort of plate except white so while I should be able to achieve a smaller config with that it won't match white switches. Its more of a mine field than it first appears.

What you need is a competent plumber and electrician. I have done several now (each one with a different plumber) I can't speak so much for the plumbing side, but max 2 days for the electrics usually less, and I would find it hard to believe the plumber was any more. Even allowing for down south prices that would be less than £2K labour. There is a long held suspicion here that with an MCS install you can get a £5K grant, so the MCS guys just add £5K to the bill so guess where the grant money ends up? All pure speculation of course but none of us can see how many of the MCS quotes can get so high just by pricing actual labour and hours expected to be worked.

MSC quote are generally just taking people for mugs from what I see. Others on here as mentioned above have excluded the MSC grant and saved. Had a look at the unitower a while ago, the coil is the largest in the world, so reheat times and temperature will not be the best. And it just a cylinder with a 3 way diverter valve. You save a lot with a better performance cylinder and a £150 3 port diverter. If the UFH is a single zone, no buffer required. Then your material list is 3 port diverter - £150 Flexible hoses x2 - £150 Cylinder - £1000 to 1500 Heat pump - depends on make and size, but I just got a new one (Maxa 6kW inverter) from eBay for £1300. Basically the same unit as sold by (made for) Viesmann for £4000+. Flex feet for HP - £70 Copper pipe and insulation Maybe a couple of thermostats, expansion vessel, isolation valves, filter ball valve, antifreeze valves (or glycol) bits and bobs - about £600

One of my favourite books is Catch 22, because it makes me laugh. Unfortunately, these days I think it’s a required official training course text for all planning officers.

Yes for the labour but they could still claim the VAT back for the materials albeit the invoice would need to detail the labour and materials separately.

Yes, sorry you can't reclaim VAT on tool hire. However if you hire a groundwork man to dig trenches and he hires a machine his whole invoice to you should be zero rated. Not sure about scaffolding... I know you can't reclaim VAT if you buy or hire but what about hire and errect?

I don't think you can reclaim the VAT on plant hire, only equipment and materials that are part of the finished build (as defined by the planning) and labour charged including VAT are allowable I think.

Problem solved! Somewhat embarrassingly, it's turned out to be a failed zone valve head on the UFH circuit - the microswitch not sending back to the FTC2 to trigger the ASHP pumps. New head fitted today - pumps now working! Thanks all!

I’d use 3 or 4 different gravel types - I can get 20mm broken flint/gravel at £30/tonne delivered bulk so I would use that as the predominant “material” and then lay “rivers” of the blue slate connecting two or three feature type trees. I would go simple with structural trees that need no attention such as a multi stem Cornus or Betula and then 3 or 4 of these would make for a nice layout. I’d also look at using a decent geotextile on a 5m width roll, make sure it’s pegged down properly and also probably spray off the whole area with Glyphosate before laying the membrane 2 or 3 weeks later.

"The contractor who build the house (brick work) charged us vat 20%" All supply and fit work should be zero rated for VAT. You won't be able to reclaim this VAT from HMRC. You need them to void the original invoice and issue you a correct one, and refund you the overpayment. You might need to pay them an admin fee for the trouble. Going forwards, any supply+fit works needs to be zero rated at invoice stage. Providing them a copy of your new build planning permission is usually sufficient for this.

I would definitely keep the feet apart from the grass, by fixing them on plinths. This keeps them away from rot, insects and lawnmowers. For a blind system as shown, I think you have to commit to a full kit.

I'm chipping in because we have recently added 3kW of solar PV to an existing 4kW array, using a Solaredge inverter with a 9.7kWh battery. We asked the DNO what they would allow which turned out to be a maximum 4kW of export from both systems combined, and they would only allow us to add 3kW on new PV. I asked the "if I export limit why is there a limit on the amount of solar panels?" question and the answer was that inverters are allowed a 5 second window to limit output, so to protect their network they impose a limit on generation capacity. So it can be done. We have a CT clamp on our grid supply which measures import and export, this is connected to a Solaredge Wattnode device which in turn is connected to the Solaredge inverter. Solaredge support export limiting which dials back its output to limit total export to the grid to 4kW. The battery isn't cheap (around £7k) but for about 8 months a year we are pretty much grid independent. If you can use the power you generate on site, which we can, then I think it is worth it. If you are just going to export excess power to the grid I don't think it is economic at the nugatory rates paid at the moment.

I'm chipping in because we have recently added 3kW of solar PV to an existing 4kW array, using a Solaredge inverter with a 9.7kWh battery. We asked the DNO what they would allow which turned out to be a maximum 4kW of export from both systems combined, and they would only allow us to add 3kW on new PV. I asked the "if I export limit why is there a limit on the amount of solar panels?" question and the answer was that inverters are allowed a 5 second window to limit output, so to protect their network they impose a limit on generation capacity. So it can be done. We have a CT clamp on our grid supply which measures import and export, this is connected to a Solaredge Wattnode device which in turn is connected to the Solaredge inverter. Solaredge support export limiting which dials back its output to limit total export to the grid to 4kW. The battery isn't cheap (around £7k) but for about 8 months a year we are pretty much grid independent. If you can use the power you generate on site, which we can, then I think it is worth it. If you are just going to export excess power to the grid I don't think it is economic at the nugatory rates paid at the moment.

https://www.vpshotwatercylinders.co.uk/product/gledhill-stainless-lite-plus-heat-pump-cylinder-210-litre/ 3m2 Or https://www.cylinders2go.co.uk/shop/renewable-energy/200-litre-telford-tempest-heat-pump-cylinder/ 3.3m2 Coil area is the most important thing, otherwise you spend an age trying to heat the cylinder up and you will use loads of energy and still have no hot water. Couldn't find the oso, but think you need the geocoil on that range. Heat loss will be way less than they claim, as they are rated at the same temp something like 75 deg. Your cylinder will be at close to 50 deg.

You can get them from BC who will charge you a fee. However you will probably need written from the person who prepared the drawings before BC will issue you them to you.

A vapour barrier below the insulation will also help reduce risk of interstitial condensation.

If its a breathable membrane you may not need top vents. See what the BCO says. They are recommended if you have tight fitting slates (rather than say hand made clay tiles) but this is to ventilate above the membrane rather than below it. The void under the membrane can also be reduced to 25mm just to allow the membrane to drape correctly.

If the ridge height is really a problem could you have a mainly-vaulted ceiling with just a tiny dropped area at the apex to allow an air-passage/'plenum chamber'?

My apprenticeship was at a company that made destructive testing machines. One way to test a circuit would be to power it up and pop it in an oven at 100°C, then time how long it lasts, then pop another one in at 150°C and time that, finally at 180°C and time. Plot results and you can hind cast to normal temperatures.

Eaves-to-eaves ventilation works for a huge number of roofs, but it may not work for your BCO... My house has no ridge ventiulation and no moisture issues (well, not in the roof....)

Click is the best value for money and reliability. I must’ve fitted 10’s of thousands of their accessories. Very few failures. Schneider ultimate if you’re going screwless flat plate. Click Definity is poor imo. There is a vast difference in quality between the better brands like Click or Hager etc and cheap rubbish like LAP or BG. You’ll get loads of issues with that stuff in my experience. It’s not worth saving a few pennies a socket for.

yes you can

The plot thickens on the "poor signal at home" issue. (now solved with wifi calling so just academic interest) Today i have been out with 2 phones, old Sky ()2) sim in one, and new 1p (EE) sim in the other. Neither gets a signal at home in spite of both networks saying coverage should be good and no known network problems. Go about a mile away from home up a hill a bit so I am looking down on the local town, both phones get a signal and work fine. I have the app Network Cell Info lite on the phone that us supposed to tell you things like what network you are connected to what band and what signal strength. When "out of signal" on the phone it gives some really weird readings like sometimes the signal strength pointer jumping up to maximum. I am wondering if there is a local interference issue rather than a "fault" with one of the networks. Just musing possibilities, a portable spectrum analyser would be handy.....

Take 2:- Popped open one of the newer V2 stats. The PCB/PSU is slightly different, pics below. New one on the left, old on the right. So, I'm guessing that adds more weight to the fact the original V1 wasn't great and has definitely been improved in V2.

Still need glycol / antifreeze in the system as you have an air to water heater pump and there is water held in the external heat exchanger

Scholmore Click is my favourite range. Decorative https://www.toolstation.com/electrical-supplies-accessories/decorative-switches-sockets/c806?brand=Click+Deco White https://www.toolstation.com/electrical-supplies-accessories/switches-sockets/c660?brand=Scolmore+Click Never had trouble with the Click fittings good quality for not much money. Schneider is another make that gets good reviews. I have not personally rated MK as "quality" for a long time.

We had Nationwide, the coolenergy MCS installers do ours. We already had the cylinders in place for DHW and UFH buffer, so the costs were just for the ASHP and install. Came out a tad over the £5k grant that Nationwide applied for, for us. So net net a no cost addition to the build. Prices have gone up since then and I still haven't seen the MCS documentation a few months after the install. Roughly speaking, and from memory, this was about £3k for the pump, therefore about £2k for the install, which would include the materials. Our pump is the smaller one, the iVT9. We had to provide the mains supply to the pump and an additional cable and cat5 cable to the controller (there were a few issues there but that's another story). The install took a day, the plumber flat out, the sparky spent a lot of time in the van... From memory, the plumber from the main contractor took about a day to plumb the DHW tank and UFH buffer tank in. And for UFH, you'd need a sparky for the wiring centre, immersions etc. So nowhere near the daft 'double glazing salesman' style quotes that 'renewable energy' companies quote. The tag 'renewable energy' on a suppliers web site should be a red flag to anyone concerned about not being ripped off. Simon

2.5 m/s is a more common upper limit for air velocity generated noise so provded you are below that you should be OK.

our ASHP/UVC is a long story but after being left in the lurch I had to find someone to install the equipment that was already on-site. found a local company who did it for £3500. that's install the UVC, buffer, ASHP, electrics (although I ran the SWA cable to save a bit of money), about 10m of lagged 28mm flow and return copper pipework from ASHP to UVC and commissioning and connecting to our UFH system. they did a brilliant job and I thought it was a reasonable cost. so there are good reliable heating engineers/companies out there that don't take the pi$$ with costs. generally they've been going for a number of years and aren't just cashing in the grant schemes.

COMPLETELY different. What you are wanting is a 2 way valve, When energised, it switches to one port, when not energised it switches to the other. Nice and simple and reliable. A 3 port 3 way valve is the work of the devil, something dreamed up by a boffin trying to do something as cheap as possible. It has a complex switching system that can stall the motor (with DC) at mid point to send water to both ports. You might gather I hate them and would never have one in my house. If you can't find a 3 port 2 way valve I would plumb it instead with individual 2 port valves.

Thanks everyone, so it does seem MCS has become a get rich quick scheme for the installers. Shame really, at most you'd expect them to pocket the £5k grant instead of a typical lower margin, but in fact, it seems the situation is worse than that. I'm still keen on the Valliant Arotherm Plus which is a Monoblock so expect no glycol required, with Unitower. I've compared the heat exchanger size in the Unitower cylinder with comparable HP cylinder from Gledhill and seems to be within 0.06 m3 so seems alright? Valliant specs show a heat-up time of 125min which seems very decent. It also has a backup 8.7kWh heater (though I don't think this is used in the heat-up calcs as far as I can tell - as the pump itself can produce a flow temp of 75 degrees. This high flow temp is another reason I'd rather go with this unit (flow temp apparently achieved without backup heater). Valliant claim this higher flow temp means you can get over 300 litres out of their 180l cylinder due to blending down. This would be important for us as a family, one bath would potentially drain the cylinder at 50 degrees, so the ability to occasionally boost to 70 degrees to increase HW by over 100l is important. It also means a Sunamp could be added as they need 65 degree flow temp which is above the temp of most heat pumps. Finally the sound levels are also very low - important as plan to install Unitower in bedroom with heatpump on wall/flat roof opposite. Only downside seems to be the cylinder is enamel and not stainless - but something has to give! Apologies if this sounds like I work for Valliant (I don't)! Just trying to make an informed decision as simply don't have £17k in our budget for HP. Does sound from the advice above we can ignore the MCS installers and self-install + G3 plumber. Especially given the expansion vessel and all associated components are included in the single pre-assembled Unitower (if I've understood what's required for a functioning/safe system) should just be a matter of connecting the pipes and following the commissioning process. EDIT: Just to clarify too - the 7kW unit + Unitower is showing at £4999 or below online (before trade discounts) hence my shock at being quoted £17k to install.

As per dpmiller, it looks like you have put the diameter in, rather than the radius, so you would need to use 34mm

Here's an illustration to help answer your question Our design could not have been more different than the 'chocolate box' row of 18th Century houses further down the lane. How did we get it through planning? Listening hard to the planner, compromise and careful attention local micropolitics. Finicky, delicate work.

It's the radius not the diameter you need to enter.

I did mine myself. Spark did the electrics, I did everything else - system was running for a year before I had a plumber sign off the G3. He spent half hour looking at it and cost me £300.

I got a full package from coolenergy, heatpump, buffer, 300l HWC, carel controller, glycol, the works. That was £6300 after vat reclaim. I then got a team of plumbers in to do the whole hoise, from memory they spent about three days between connecting up the heatpump, plumbing the cylinder, commissioning the UFH (connecting manifolds, installing pumps, valves etc). So that about £1600 and that included two days of the G3 guy. Then there was 28mm pipe, pumps, connectors, brassware etc. So another £300 ish. Then there was the spark for a day, he couldn't get it all done so brought his mate in fro another half day... No bill yet but reckon £300. That brings it in at £8500. Is the valiant unit a split or monoblock system? If it split that that brings in extra costs.

The measurement isn’t taken from the ridge, it’s the point at which a horizontal line from the flue outlet (centre of) hits the roof surface. It’s a bit late for me to do some mental trigonometry but I guess if the ridge is 7m away then the point of interest on the slope is likely beyond the minimum required.

It can also write very useable Python code to a prompt.

@PXR5If not too late make sure there is a clause allowing sale to anyone if you can't find a local buyer after some period of time on the market. Your lender may also want to see the wording as occupancy restrictions affect the value.

@PXR5 Pity that you have this issue.. but you have started a great thread. The responses you have had are really informative (for me also), BH folk chipping with invaluable experience and advice. For me to all who have chipped in .. a big thank you, learnt loads and given me food for thought too. I can't think of anything I can meaningfully contribute to the legal side / just general great advice and input and so on. Other than this. This made me think.. what sort of things could other BH members do if faced with a similar situation and what might be a first small step you could take without aggrevating the situation. One might be.. how do you get something that is a bit of initial formaility to let your neighbours know that you are actively considering your own and importantly their circumstances... if you can show that you have been reasonable and proactive then if later it goes legal this will give weight to your side of the argument. The objective (test of reasonable) is to say... hey I can forsee a possible problem and I want to protect avoid risk (= cost) to us both. Now with things like retaining walls that are bulging.. they tend to slowly destabalise until some, usually environmental event, tips the balance and causes what can be a sudden and dangerous collapse. That could be wind / heavy rainfall / loss of tree root / vegitation stability. A non environmental event would be where someone say piles bulk bags of gravel on the high side of the retained ground or drives a digger up close to the fence. We would often call that a surcharge load. For all if you are designing a basement / retiaining wall we often allow for 10kN/ sq m surcharge loading (1 tonne per sq metre on the finished level of the ground). @PXR5 You could start out with your own survey.. as time is on your side you could probably do this without say an SE / Geotechnical Engineer. First thing to do is take some good record photographs from ground level. These should be panoramic and detailed. Detailed would include parts of the wall where bricks are obviously displaced, where the mortar is clearly falling out of the joints or where roots are growing out the mortar. The key here is to be able to reference the panoramic photos to the detailed ones. The way to do this is imagine you posted the lot on BH.. ask yourself.. would we be able just from the photos to see where the displaced bricks are in relation to the panoramic photos. You tell a story using the photos and present a cogent argument. Ideally you may know someone who has a drone. It does not have to be high tech. Fly it up to the boundary line and take plan photos. It's a good time of year (winter when I write this) as you can see what trees are deciduous and what are say Leylandi.. the evergreen trees and shrubs. This is really helpful. The canopy size of the evergreens is easier to determine when the deciduous trees are not in leaf. Next try and get you hands on a surveyors staff. They have cleary marked graduations that can turn out well in photos unlike a measuring tape, it also looks the part.. a proper staff. Fly the drone down a bit and photograph horizontally.. square on at mid height of the staff. Fly up and take photos level (or as close as you can) with the top of the staff. With a bit of maths if pushed this can give you an approximation of the tree height working from ground level. Objective is to establish roughly the height of the vegitation / trees. You can do this from ground level but you could you have perspective to take into account. If you can't get a drone then you can do this from ground level but it is a bit more complex. On the drone.. do not put any photos in any communication that are taken beyond your boundary.. or you may be subject to a "peeping tom allegation" but you may not want to delete any that have been taken accidentally.. the key here is to mindful of the data protection act. Next as time is on you side to some extent wait until spring then repeat. This all sounds a bit complicated.. but what you are doing is to establish the vegitation profile. In the spring once the leaves develop you can start to identify what kind of trees / vegitation is planted on the neighbours side and you have a record of it. In summary we are trying to record; vegitation height / canopy spread and species. From that we can predict the future growth and how the root growth may impact on the wall. That is what we need to know as SE's say. The above is a long winded way of what the NHBC provide in their design guidance or maybe I have expained how the NHBC guidance can be applied in real life? Next we ask.. how much and how fast are the neighbours trees / vegitation likely to grow? Now that is important as if you want to build a house say we need that information to design the house founds. We also need to know if your neighbours decide to cut down a big tree next to the boundary especially if you house found is only a metre from the boundary. When designing your house found I want to know if trees have been cut down near the boundary on your neighbours side. Turning back to the retaining wall. What we are trying to do is to get a handle on what impact your neighbours planting may have on the retaining wall looking forward. It could be that the trees / shrubs are old and about to die.. thus the movement you see may reduce / stop.. or they could be in their strong junevenile stage and have strong root growth... like teenage kids.. growing every where and trying to take over. Once we have identified canopy size / vegitation type and age then we have some info. We also need to know a bit about the type of soil / water table and so on.. but if I start on that I'll be writing all night. In the round though this is important as the problem may not in fact get significantly worse! which could be good news. Identifying what could happen should drive your strategy to some extent and how you couch your findings / approach your neighbours. Next we need to look at the existing retaining wall construction. Ok the photos should pick up the root growth / weathering of the mortar and so on but we need to look at how much it is off the plumb / possibly unstable. Get a string line and run it say 200 mm tight off the bottom line of the wall from end to end of the boundary wall corners. Do the same at the top. Don't do it on a windy day. At each end plumb the top and bottom line so they are vertically in alignment. DON'T use a spirit level.. use a plumb bob and photograph how you set it up. Take the time to get this spot on. You could use a lazer.. but again this can be easily challenged in terms of accuracy. If you use a spirit level then the first thing folk will say.. is your spirit level accurate.. saying.. I bought it new from B & Q won't cut the mustard in court! Go old schoool use the plumb bob all photographed. Make sure the photos show exactly how you have set up the top and bottom lines. Now you have a top and bottom datum to work to. Next get a straight edge and measure back to the face of the wall and the fence posts etc. Do this say at 3.0 m centres.. allows you to average things.. then take local measurements (odd centres) where the wall is clearly bulging but ALSO where the wall looks ok.. you must be impartial here. Now you draw / calculate a profile of the wall and can identify the real problem areas and compare with part of the wall that may be ok. You may well find that the problem areas coincide with cetrain trees? Now the above will take a bit of time and effort. But if I was acting for you I would want to gather the same info as any another Surveyor / technical bod would say.. The difference between you and I when acting in a professional capacity is folk can argue that my word (SE type hat on) carries more weight that yours cf you with long standing service / good personal reputation in the local the community. To easily resolve this you'll need a "helper" to help you take all these measurements. So long as you work together you can both put your hand on your hearts (the witness) and say.. we did not fudge the results as we relied on first principles.. like a string line and a plumb bob and took photos = someone like me.. Gus. Just don't pick a helper that has a conviction for fraud.. I'm sure you don't associate with the like.. just having a laugh. In summary you may ask.. but I'm not an SE /other professional bod.. so what.. if you think about it.. you can do a lot on your own.. looking / thinking, measuring in a recognised way and recording what you find. Next do a small report.. could be a couple of pages with an appendix with loads of photos. You may know someone that can make it look " more official in terms of presentation" Report.. Keep it factual and really simple. Avoid elaboration in any way as you can dig a hole for yourself if you get carried away. Stick to your comfort zone, the skills you have and avoid stepping into say SE / Geotech areas.. photograph and report what you observe ..don't try and interpret your findings. Report starts with an objective. Objective is to understand how much the wall is bulging and how straight it is.. you don't have to go all SE and say.. too much leaning over /unsafe blah blah.. you are just establishing the profile of the wall. Do not turn the report into what is acalled an interpretive report.. this is where you start to draw conclusions from what you have found / measured. That the report has been prepared based on the fact that you are intending to construct a dwelling within say one metre of the boundary. You are concerned that in doing so you may have to cut the "structural roots" of their trees.. ( pretty sure you are within your rights here just like if I had put the found of my extension on your land.. over to the experts on English law here). Also that as this is intended to be a dwelling house their wall must not pose a safety risk to the dwelling and use of. Next you say.. we have established the tree / shrub height, canopy and species based on observations from our side of the boundary. Lastly you write a bit of conclusion which from what you are saying is: 1/ The wall appears to have deteriorated and this could be as a result of not least a lack of maintenance by you (based on your stated claim of ownership) coupled with the apparent detrimetal impact of ongoing growth of the vegitation and trees on your side of the boundary. You are not interpreting here.. you are saying .. it looks like these are things that could be an issue. 2/ My initial findings based on limited information I have gathered is that the vegitation / trees ect on your side of the boundary will likely result in the wall for which you are responsible deteriorating further... It may be that you find that the trees etc are old and dying.. so that could become a mute point. Think carefully and identify if their trees etc are really a big problem. 3/ Lets say you find that the trees are vigorous.. growing like fury. First point is that you now have a record so you say.. here is the record.. it's your wall / trees etc not mine. But in the interest of public safety this is a potential issue for the "owner of the wall". Leave it at that as they will quickly twig that there could be some liability racking up on their account. 4/ Say that these are your provisional findings. Arrange as you see fit and put that in a "report". Next do a covering letter which says something like.. as well as being really nice to them..as you really want them to come to the table and be good neighbours and you want that kind of relationship also. Here is what I have found / measured. I want to get on and want to identify and resolve any potential issues. Here is my report. Unless I hear from you in 4 ( about 21 working days) weeks then the measurements and photographs must stand for record purposes. Here what you are doing is affording them the opportunity to engage with you. If they challenge your findings it will probaby cost them a bit as they will probably need to involve a professional.. unless they too are on BH say!. If they don't respond then you can say.. well I take it you have accepted my measurements. It may be that if you put together a good looking evidence based report coupled with a pleasant covering letter they will see the light. I don't think you can lose as the report you produce is evidence based and asks questions. Part of the intent is to sow doubt in their mind and makes them think.. hey this could be a bit costly for us if we keep being "difficult neighbours" .. it gets them thinking.. our structural tree roots should not really be on other folks land.. if our trees fall on someone else.. the Police / HSE could be at our door? The factual report is one part.. the way you finesse the covering letter is probably the key. The above is one appoach to getting difficult neighbours to "see the light" .. what you are doing is measuring/ photographing and giving them the opportunity to respond in a like for like manner.. which probably means they have to stick their hand in their pocket also. You basically say put up or shut up.

Don’t expect anything from the right to build registration, I’ve been on a couple of registers for around 4 years and chased then several times with nothing back except I am registered and occasionally how many planning applications they have approved to cover the number of previous registrations.

You might be able to get the SE to spec. a goalpost arrangement - we have a 6m UB supported at each end on a 100x100 square hollow section post. This hides in the inner leaf and is strapped to the blockwork courses. It has to have a good connection to the foundation though.

Engineered oak floor now complete in lounge, also brick slips installed for fireplace. Just awaiting the cream grout turning up for these to complete then wood-burner can be installed. Kitchen more or less complete, oak worktops oiled and fitted just need up stands fitting now. Also need to order up stands for laminate top in utility. Decided to get a custom aged/ blackened copper splash back to try and tie in the unit handles. Holding off fitting the range until this arrives.

I could not agree more with this ~ the quieter the house the more accute one's hearing becomes!

Is that why your name is Joe90 ?

All companies need someone good at woodwork. Was there not some research done where they asked stock brokers and black taxi drivers about there views on the economy, the taxi drivers were better, but then so where monkeys choosing numbered bananas.

"I’d compare ChapGPT to a very recent joiner at an accounting firm". Ah well, that's where they're going wrong! They need an accountant.

They wanted my phone number to sign up, so it can (expletive deleted) off. I was going to ask it to write a story about @pocster and his dungeon. Looks like I will have to do it myself, oneday.