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bmj1

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  1. Thanks all. Thank you for the feedback. As you say, cancelling the screed was never realistic. It's wooden floor anyway on the step. Appreciate all the support and advice. It's amazing how much you learn doing a build... Will do it better next time 😅
  2. Architect detailed screed first with all GF partitions and staircase on top of the screed
  3. To be fair, architect didn't detail this way, was the builder thinking he knew better...
  4. @nod @JohnMo @joe90 - thanks, good to know. The plan was to clad the step with engineered wood. Do I need to worry about moisture coming up through the concrete and damaging the wood ? We're beam and block, and DPC is in place underneath, so I'm hoping should be okay, but figured I would ask the question
  5. Solid concrete staircase sitting directly onto the beam and block oversite, bypassing our insulation. Is this a cause for concern ? Anything I should do to rectify ? W
  6. Hi all, We've got the following two options, please can you advise ? Option 1 Kingspan K103 at 75mm depth 45mm to 65mm of sand/cement screed with hardener Option 2 Kingspan K103 at 75mm depth 2nd layer of floor insulation at 20mm depth 25mm to 45mm of Liquid screed Thought process is: The K103 is already purchased and on-site, so no option to go with a different product This would be a significant improvement in performance: u value goes from 0.158 -> 0.138 A liquid screed would conduct more heat into the building, rather than below the house, so would be more efficient to run Key notes: 1) This is on Ground Floor. Construction is beam and block. 2) We have UFH. Questions: 1) Does this make sense ? 2) Is there a disadvantage to a liquid screed ? 3) Are there any issues with laying a 20mm depth PIR on top of a 75mm depth PIR ?
  7. I got my access hatch from fakro. They had one that wasn't plastic, which I preferred
  8. We're using 25.5mm insulated plasterboard in our reveals (17mm PIR + 9.5mm plasterboard) Given we've got sash windows with wide frames, this works nicely visually, and provides a good airtight finish.
  9. Cement fillet on the outside to match mortar colour might look nice also ?
  10. 1. Agreed to fix with brackets, this is the manufacturer recommendation 2. Compriband around sides sounds sensible. 3. Silicone or PVC trim ? Assume you'd match colour to the outside colour of the sash window ? I've seen examples of silicone and it doesn't look that neat to me - is trim nicer ? Or would you do clear silicone ?
  11. Hi all, We've got some PVC box sash windows to fit in straight reveals. Any advice in terms of how best to fit these? I.e. sealant, etc. Also, was thinking coloured sealant to match the outside colour would make sense, rather than cement ? Does that make sense? We've already put decent cavity closers in. Thank you in advance !
  12. I got a shock when our sparky drilled some decent size holes in our structural steel beams holding up the 2nd floor. Checked with our SE, and it was all fine. These holes were 30mm diameter.
  13. We did internally but using the blue acoustic soil pipes, to avoid hearing anything
  14. Thinking was that 75mm phenolic is like 90mm PIR... Should be okay? Especially with a liquid screed so heat won't have much resistance going upwards
  15. Proposed GF buildup: 1) beam and block (already done) 2) radon barrier 3) 75mm phenolic insulation 4) slip membrane 5) UFH pipes 6) 40mm liquid screed We are very height constrained.. I'm just wondering if there is any kind of radon barrier or slip membrane that would help me reflect the heat upwards ?
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