MJNewton

<Another duplicate post> Sorry for these duplicates... I should've gone for proper PoE! 😉

<duplicate post>

The type with injectors/splitters should be regarded as "poor man's PoE" (no slight intended; I use a lot of it) and is not standardised (unlike 'true' PoE). It does have the benefit of enabling non-PoE devices to be powered (over Ethernet) though.

If I were you, and I was not so long ago(!), I'd consider getting a couple of books on the subject as not only do they help answer questions you've got (this/similar forums are also great, often better given the dialogue and peer discussion) but they also help answer questions you didn't know you had too! Two that really helped me were The Construction of Houses and Home Extension Manual: Both really good bedroom reading, or at least I thought so...!

It need not necessarily cost that much if it's just a straightforward extension. It cost me £350 for an 'architectural technician' to my plans for permitted development check, detailed drawings for full-plans building control and builder quote, and the engineering calcs for a steel beam and lintel. Whilst I can't help but feel I should've paid more I must assume he doesn't lose money doing these and so must find it easy to knock all this out for so little cost.

Compliance with the regs is (mostly1) just that - complying with the rules laid down in legislation. It is only a matter of knowledge and skill, neither of which necessarily requires a professional. Forums like this can obviously really help with the knowledge side of things, and often times even if you don't have direct experience/skill of a particular task you often find that you have transferable skills from elseswhere. 1 Issues can arise from *proving* you've complied with the rules which, in the case of notifiable electrical work for example, means formal qualifications are required to be held in order to (self-)certify the work.

Of course, it does need doing in accordance with the regs though.

Not of they are just extensions to existing circuits, which it sounds like these are going to be given the low numbers.

Uugh.. Makes a sad situation even sadder.

Are you sure? My understanding was that lenders have a legal obligation to get the highest price for a repossession hence they are always sold on the open market or at auctions within the aim to achieve (and prove) this. Any valuation thus has no bearing on the final outcome.

I always assumed the recommended 'flexible duct' connections to mean something more like this 'semi rigid'1 ducting: Relatively stiff compared to the 'soft' flexible ducting (it retains whatever form you shape it) but still unlikely to transmit vibrations and being much smoother inside (particularly when stretched out). 1 Not to be confused with the 75mm/90mm semi-rigid ducting used for radial distribution! *sigh* I've never known a subject have so many ambiguous terms. Please nobody mention plenums, manifolds, vents, valves, terminals or grilles!

Ah, okay, I can understand the need more now. I think I am still thinking that by the time you've found and fitted a solution the problem will have gone away, and hopefully never to return!

Given that the dependency on the immersion heaters is a rare occurance, is it not sufficient to leave the switches on all day when required with the thermostats preventing power being continuously drawn? If you're not using hot water heat loss will be minimum, and if you are then the stats will just top things up as required. I can't imagine there's much energy to be saved by having greater manual control in such rare circumstances.

I had a 750mm in the last house and that worked well. Shallower could probably still give some benefit.

I prefer to go a little deeper whenever possible (ie assuming availability of the chosen worktop) as it allows for greater worktop area when you've got things sat on the top at the back. It can also make plumbing at the back a little easier.