MJNewton

I'd lower the Indoor Temp threshold slightly (to, say, 20C or perhaps slightly above your heating set temp) so that the bypass cuts in sooner when the right conditions are met (outdoor temp < indoor temp, indoor > 20C, outdoor >14C). Note that if the outdoor temp is greater than indoor temp then the heat exchanger should remain in-circuit as it works in both directions i.e. heat from the (warmer) outside air will be transferred to the outgoing (cooler) inside air hence cooling the supply slightly (I've seen up to -3C in practice recently). Is the humidity screen a measurement or a trigger setting (e.g. for boost)? The presence of an outdoor value is making me think the former.

On that basis this is non-existent in all honesty, particularly if looking through the glass rather than focusing in on it.

Ah, hadn't considered it being a different material. I think I'll just leave it as it is. If the light is right I can just about see it from about a metre away, but only as I know where exactly to look.

Thanks all for the thoughts. I might get the windscreen sorted and just see what they say whilst they're here. I may end up just leaving it as now that a few days have passed I can only really find the scratch from remembering roughly where it is.

I'm worried I could turn something that is only visible to me into something more blatant! Might there be coating issues to consider, or would any such coating be on the inside of the DG unit? This is the internal pane so whilst there's no self-cleaning coating (like there is on the exterior of our roof lantern glass) it is toughened Pilkington K Glass S 'soft coat' but which surface would that be on?

I discovered a 3" scratch the other day on the glazing in our lift and slide doors, and whilst I can't prove it I'm sure our lovely 3yr old daughter might've had something to do with it but I must admit I'm not entirely sure how. I was horrified when I first spotted it (whilst buffing off a hand print) and whilst it really bothered me I eventually realised that the odd cobweb and other blemish on the outside of the windows were far worse and didn't bother me so would should the scratch? It still did though. Anyway, the scratch is easy to feel under a finger/nail and, somewhat optimistically I'm sure, I tried running it with toothpaste but it didn't have any effect. I am nervous about upping the ante with something more abrasive but would welcome any tips/suggestions as to how I might improve/remove it? My wife's windscreen has a small chip in it and I was intending on getting that sorted through the insurance (for £20) and wondered if the repairer of that would be in a position to sort this out too if I bunged them some notes? I know with a previous windscreen repair a small contraption to hold the liquid in/above the chip was used and then UV light to cure, but not sure if that approach would work for a long scratch on a vertical pane? Maybe they've got a whole arsenal of tricks and techniques available to them...

The easiest way to spot if your DS18B20 is fake is by its ROM code as all genuine Maxim/Dallas devices have their 64-bit ROM code (consisting of 28<48 bit serial><8 bit CRC>) reporting as: 28 xxxxxxxx0000 xx Fakes don't have the 0000 in the most significant bits of the serial code. There's further information here along with ways of finding out what family of fakes you might have and known deviations from the spec for each.

If accuracy is important be aware that practically all DS18B20's on eBay and Amazon Marketplace are fakes and so you can pretty much throw the official datasheet out of the window. Worth buying from a trusted source (eg CPC), although of course they'll cost a bit more.

Yes, that's what we've got. With brush seals it obviously can't be airtight but holding my hands next to it when it's windy certainly shows there's no draught coming through. Our house isn't 'air tight' though so we only had to be sensible with how we made a hole through the wall. It is in an open plan Family Room though - next to a sofa! - so even the slightest of draughts would've been unacceptable.

I doubt there's all that much difference between them, not least given many (most?) will be using off-the-shelf components such as the fans (ebm papst being very common) and heat exchangers. That only really leaves control boards and external controllers left to fail which I wouldn't expect to see differences in reliability given modern manufacturing techniques.

My advice is to cancel - regain control of your money. Settle your final bill with Green manually when the time comes. Any credit you might be due will be passed to EDF and they can either credit your new account, refund via a new DD with them or, if you move to a new supplier, send you a cheque. Just been through all this with Tonik and Scottish Power. Took about 3 months to conclude (and I think I was one of the luckier ones) but just let it run its course.

As Rob99 says, cancel the direct debit. It's only their for convenience (and likely theirs in particular once the administrators are appointed).

At the risk of not being any use whatsoever it's usually down to the bulbs, the dimmer, or both... 😉 Joking aside (although that wasn't actually a joke!) if you like the bulbs then I'd look more into what dimmer you've got. Varilight V-Pro are often recommended as being compatible with a wide variety of bulbs, have a couple of different operating modes and are easy to get hold of. (Make sure you get a V-Pro - they have other, sometimes cheaper, models that aren't necessarily as good)

I recall reading of a patent covering a whole-house heating system consisting of a magnetron in the loft that 'gently' heated the occupants below!

I can't help on the technical front but I did want to say I'm sorry to hear about the passing of your Dad and how lovely a thing it would be to finish what he'd started, particularly when you're not sure how to do it! I could imagine it'd make him very proud!