• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


pudding last won the day on October 31 2017

pudding had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

27 Neutral

About pudding

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Personal Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It's mounted on the wall brackets that are supplied with it. Not sure if I have a pic of it before I put the cladding around it. It's an A2A heat pump unit for the wall mounted air con units, if that makes any difference compared to the normal air source units discussed on here? (dont think it does/should.) It's a Daikin system I installed, and with the app you can see the power consumption for each wall mounted unit. So far (a whole 5 days with cladding/3days with slate roof on), there doesnt appear to be any noticeable change in the power used (obviously it's very weather/temp dependent, plus the units automatically sense if someone is in the room and doesnt top up the heat as often if nobody is there). Apart from increased power consumption, what issues would/could become evident?
  2. I literally just finished doing exactly this, disguising my A2A external unit this week (plus radon outlet under there) and put the slates on this morning. Used left over cedar cladding and some old slates. Hopefully it won't kill the airflow too much. You can still feel a nice airflow coming through the vertical slats so dont think the COP is going to be killed from it. There are plenty of places selling stuff like this for a lot of money, so I doubt there's too much effect on performance.
  3. I put this in my Rage mitre saw - https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-tct-saw-blade-254-x-30mm-80t/4260v to cut some plaster-in aluminium profile. Worked a treat.
  4. Hi all, Little conundrum here regarding our extension, and cold bridging involving a granite post that is under an existing, now internal full height window. The top of the granite is pretty much at the level of where new engineered oak floor boards will go. Options to cover this area I see are:- 1. Drill/grind/cut away at the granite to lower it 50-100mm, then we can put some more PIR sheet and then screed on top before the oak floor. 2. Cut away less, say 20mm of the granite so that the oak floor boards can just fit on top of the granite, maybe with some adhesive foam to fill any small gaps/undulation left from the cutting 3. Leave the granite as it is, put the oak floor boards up to the edge of the granite in line with the rest of the full length of the wall (PIR upstands are wonky and not aligned with the full length of the wall due to the random stone wall), and then use a oak cover board on top to fill the gap between the oak floor and the wall, with adhesive foam (so a small amount of insulating material) as in the attached sketch Last solution will be the easiest, but of course would probably have the biggest cold bridge to the ground, but will it really matter much? This granite is now fully internal, so shouldn't get freezing cold in winter. Any comments, or other possible solutions? Cheers.
  5. Raise the rooflight upstand, add more insulation to the same height on top of joists so everything is flush. Then, have a step up from the existing door to the new higher level. You'll have one small area of the step where the insulation isn't up to the rest then?
  6. What was the other name for that and where from if possible?
  7. I did think about cutting the Iroko rather than the cladding battens. Could be a good reason to buy a table saw. I do have some builders doing the work, but am helping out here and there in between homeschooling and happy and would like to do this bit myself especially if its a good excuse to get another tool. With cutting the Iroko, on that internal corner, in order to get 50mm visible, it would mean getting oversize timber to cut down as the narrower cut down face would be facing outwards. How do you work that one out? Time for a scale drawing methinks, gonna be easier than trig. Last Q, decent table saw for a reasonable price for the job?
  8. Here's a quick sketch of the detail I'm trying to sort out :-
  9. Hi, Does anybody have any great ideas for a detail on how to finish cedar cladding on a bay window type wall on my new extension, for internal 135 and external 135 degree corners? I'm using some 50x50 Iroko on a couple of simpler 90 degree external corners to match our current house. Ideally we'd also use the same 50x50 ( or close to this) Iroko profile for these 135deg corners, but seems fairly tricky and I've not come across any cladding details for this type of corner before? Any tips?
  10. Hi all, Which of these two, (or any other better details?), would be best for our extension? Are there any problems with either of the 2 details below? The only difference is one has the DPM turned up behind the breather membrane. The thinking behind this is that is protects the bottom of the fibreboard insulation. Any issues? Thanks.
  11. Bit of a thread resurrection! I'm looking at my flat roof buildup. Currently proposed to use the tissue faced PIR. Which VCL did you use and what glue to stick it on? Alternatively, is there any reason or issue against installing the VCL under the OSB? So once the flat roof joists are up, lay the polythene VCL over it and then screw the OSB on through the VCL? Seems like this order would avoid any issues glueing down tissue faced PIR, and the VCL still protects. Ta.
  12. Fall achieved using tapered Kingspan boards. They are paper covered rather than foil so can be adhered to. I haven't yet had a cost from the builders yet but will need to chase them up before they order anything. My initial proposal was for firrings and OSB on the top of standard foil PIR boards, especially as it'll be a green wildflower roof and we'll be walking up there every now and then to trim the plants, so with OSB on top I felt it would be a bit stronger, as I'm not too sure about walking on paper covered PIR boards directly. The builders are keen on tapered boards as everything in the roof structure can be flat and they simply plonk the Kingspan on top. It avoids the need for any extra long fixings for that top layer of OSB, which could need to 220mm+ so would be a lot quicker I guess saving some money there. Thanks for your suggested design. I've sketched it out, so is it something like this, with the supplied rebated timber sat on top:-
  13. This is one idea I have, using a 100x50 Compacfoam block. On the edge of the shuttering for the RC slab pour, a 50x50 batten is attached, creating a 50x50 rebate. The compacfoam can then sit in this rebate, and then in order to attached it to the slab, it is screwed to 15mm ply, which is then bolted to the edge of the slab. Look any good? Lot of faff for not much gain? Not going to work for some reason? Ta.
  14. Morning all, Attached below is the general detail of our foundation/slab/timber frame wall. In this wall we're planning on a 3.6m triple glazed bifold door. Question is how to position the door and reduce thermal bridging. Builders will be pouring a slab next week I think (racing along v quickly, too quickly almost!) so before that really I need to come up with any requirements for the door thresholds. Options in my mind include 1. Simply placing the door on the edge of the concrete slab/inner leaf, with a 190mm cill from the door, spanning over the 100m cavity EPS, but I think this would be the worst thermally, but in the grand scheme of things perhaps not awful? 2. Using some 12/15mm ply to create a box (already doing this for cills/jambs/heads for other windows) that then projects 50mm over the cavity/EPS, and shifting the bifold 50mm out into the cavity/EPS layer 3. Using Compacfoam somehow, perhaps as in the GBS detail, but that then requires those blocks to be ordered and threaded bars, and quite a bit of effort and prep with the pour, so could delay things a bit 4. Using Compacfoam in some other way that doesnt require threaded rods set into the slab? 5 ??? Any bright ideas would be great.
  15. So this is the sketch I've come up with:- Thanks for the replies so far. I'd not really thought about any warranty for the rooflight and would hope a different rebated seat of the same dimensions wouldn't affect the actual rooflight and warranty, but I'm sure they would use it to wriggle out of any claim. I hadnt thought about adhering the roof covering, which at the mo is going to be EPDM to the compacfoam. Anybody any ideas about this and if it could/would work? I'll do some digging for that one. If i go down that route and the epdm wont stick to compacfoam, I could alter the sketch I've done and continue the 20mm PIR up to replace the outer 20mm of the compacfoam and make the rebated section slimmer down to 50mm. Hopefully the VCL blue line I've drawn would satisfy any BCO and is in the right place.