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pudding last won the day on October 31 2017

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  1. Good video here on how to do it using the Fugi kit, but i guess lots of the principles apply to all mehtods of finishing -
  2. Ta for that. In between Bodmin and Lostwithiel, on the side of the Fowey valley so nice and exposed to the elements so good seals are def important when the wind whips up here!
  3. Sorry, missed that bit. Can you say which company as I'm just down the road from you, and price if possible?
  4. Thanks for the reply. What brand are yours?
  5. Mega bump! Thinking about an extension and possible using bi-folds. This link has popped up in my browser ads - http://panoramicdoors.co.uk/product-details/ Looks slightly different to the usual bifold design and quite interesting and appealing, although there's not a ton of detail on the website, and the specification section is not too informative. Def one that needs seeing in person to check construction details/seals. Any body heard of this company or seen them before?
  6. pudding

    Oak frame direct glazing

    Yes that's true about the heat loss through the glass vs through the oak posts, although every little helps, especially if it would add virtually no extra cost. The building i dont imagine would be massively different from our main living area in terms of heat loss. At the mo we've got 2 large 3G sliding doors (2.2m and 3m wide), plus another two 2-2.5m wide windows., so lots of glazing. The new orangery extension wouldnt be vastly different in terms of % glazing i'd guess, but would have the extra heat loss through the roof/skylight. Quick crude sketch here, shaded areas would be oak posts/wall:- It would be off the 2.2m wide sliding door from the kitchen which we'd leave in place so easily shut off from the rest of the house if needed, although ideally we like to make the new extension usable all year around.
  7. pudding

    Oak frame direct glazing

    Hey all, I'm thinking of adding an oak framed orangery type extension to our house, with a flat roof and a large skylight. It would have a dwarf cavity wall, say 3ft high, stone clad to match our house with some form of cavity insulation (full fill PIR trying to keep wall thickness as low as possible?). Then atop this would be the oak frame. Insulating the dwarf wall to good standards wont be hard, but what about an oak framed glazing system. I'm thinking it would be fixed glazing, direct to the frame such as this:- I know this isn't going to be the pinnacle in terms on insulation but we'd like oak on view inside and out. I was thinking about improving the above standard detail by replacing the softwood spacer with some form of insulation (PIR strip?) and going triple glazed which would match the rest of our house. Anybody seen this done before or have any better ideas?
  8. pudding

    HMO wifi

    at the bottom of that message isnt there an 'advanced' link you can click on, then you can 'ignore and proceed' to get into the controller? Just looked in IE, you can click 'more info', then 'go to the web page, not recommended'.
  9. pudding

    How long can vermin live in a sealed cavity?

    +1 on making sure the trap is against a wall. I've used mine mainly without bait this year, but against walls where they run and caught over 10-20 mice.
  10. pudding

    How long can vermin live in a sealed cavity?

    Peanut butter works a treat.
  11. pudding

    Pressurising ground loops

    So, picked up most plumbing bits from screwfix, and the rest of the bits arrived today (brass tube and pvc tube). So it's all a bit heath robinson and now looks like this:- It now consists of 1" - 22mm adapter, 22-15mm internal reducer, non-return valve from the fill loop flexi-pipe, shut off valve, flexi pipe to pvc tube. Most important thing is it works! Had a bit of the glycol solution left over, diluted it a little, and have added 2 litres or so to the loops. Pressure gone from 0.7bar to 1.2bar. Result!! Saved me over £200 on a callout.
  12. pudding

    Pressurising ground loops

    Perfect, shopping list formed methinks! Will hopefully get it put together next week and give it a crack.
  13. pudding

    Pressurising ground loops

    Execllent, thanks for the idea. Already got that exact green sprayer here, so will look into the parts needed to adapt it.
  14. Hi, I've had my GSHP for 4.5 years now. All running well, only niggle is i've had to have the pressure topped up twice in the ground loops outside in the field. We've got about 550m straight pipe outside so a fair amount. The first time the pressure was topped up was after less than 1 year. The last time it was topped up was nearly 2 years ago, and the pressure is very slowly falling, so the time between refills is getting longer and I'm hoping it was entrenched air in the pipes and a little expansion which is now coming to an end, only time will tell. In the meantime, i'm reluctant to spend over £200 again for less than a half hr job, esp if the pressure needs topping up again, so would like to do this myself and with winter approaching i thought now is a good time to think about it before the system cuts out due low pressure in the middle of winter. Here's a couple of pics of the manifold chamber outside: Any tips on the best way to re-pressurise the system. The installers used this - https://www.gogeothermal.co.uk/category/27/Filling-and-Flushing-Station which i think would be overkill for my situation and even doubt they would sell to me as a private individual. I've seen this pump https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-rp30-pressure-testing-pump/83797 or even this https://www.amazon.co.uk/318927-Installation-Heating-Leakage-Pressure/dp/B00KBQPMII/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536048793&sr=8-6&keywords=rothenberger+rp30 which look like they could do the job given the appropriate fittings/couplings? I'm assuming this is fairly similar to pressurising an UFH system and doesn't need anything too fancy like the installers used? Will be looking at getting about 2bar, and the the pressure is measured on the GSHP unit itself so the accuracy of any pump i buy isn't essential. Thanks.
  15. Do you actually need screws? This foam will easily hold on those boards, no screws required at all. (apologies if this is just adding more complexity )