pudding

Members
  • Content Count

    99
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

pudding last won the day on October 31 2017

pudding had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

25 Neutral

About pudding

  • Rank
    Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Cornwall

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for all the replies and comments, I didn't notice them all yesterday. Their should be very little uncertainty and variation with the extension. I've designed it all pretty much apart from the structural elements and there should be no surprises along the way, unless building control come back with a load of issues! I'd already obtained a quote for glazing (bifold/2 full height fixed units/2 top hung windows) which should be the biggest cost item. No plumbing involved, just electrics, which should be minimal. As I've designed and specced so much and will be part time soon, I did want to get involved and do a bit of the work on site and arrange a few subbed items (glazing/matching zinc rainwater goods/a2a heat pump), however the builder replied saying everything needs to go through them with the 'plus', otherwise they couldn't afford their overheads. Which I kind of understand, but it will slightly galling to have to send my glazing quote through them and them add 10% to it when I've done all the leg work and got quotes and visited the company. I've replied to the builder and said to go ahead with a quote using a cost-plus basis. He sent me his terms of business, so i can see their markup etc. It is an extra 15% markup on materials, and an extra 10% on sub-contractors fees, all added prior to VAT. Then these costs will be added to the on site timesheet x labour costs for each bill. Does this sound reasonable?
  2. Yup, that will indeed be the case. I'm lucky enough to earn a good salary and be in the same position as doctors and stuck with PAYE so cant avoid it. Atm, we try and stay below £100k/yr to avoid the marginal rate where you lose your tax free allowance and would have an effective tax rate of 62% above £100k, and one way of doing that was to pay into the pension. A flat 20% relief will now make that a bit pointless and possibly be avoided, and even more of my colleagues will go part time as it's pointless working so hard and long for a little extra money. I'm going part time in a couple of months, and the marginal tax rate did enter my thinking as each years pay rise makes it harder and harder to avoid big tax bills somewhere (other lifestyle reasons were the main factor though, although a drop from 40-20% tax relief will make this issue become more front and center in future, and the end result will be less tax take for HMRC and we simply work less). First world problems tho....
  3. I'm just about to send over drawings to my proposed builder for my extension. He's asked if I'd like a fixed price for the works, or to go with a cost-plus arrangement? Any advice on which could be better and why? I've never heard of cost-plus so some googling is about to happen! Ta.
  4. Mine are up to our garage and it works fine. Think i just put them in each bottom corner of the little trench. It's 10mm SWA i think, and 2xCAT6, about 15m maybe in length.
  5. Thanks for the replies. We'd actually only be heating the dining room (study/bedroom will have carpet so no worries about the floor feeling cold there), which leaves about 28m2 for UFH as an option. I found an even cheaper place here for the kit - https://www.ambient-elec.co.uk/ambient-100w-loose-cable-3653-p.asp which i think makes going for a more complicated heating system of pipes/pumps etc too much, both complicated and costwise. Ed - that was my slight concern that if we run the UFH so we can actually tell its on, then the A2A pump and unit will never run and we'll end up using the more expensive electric UFH to proved the heating. It'll still be useful for cooling though. Does anyone know, do the electric UFH systems just run at full chat until the target temp is reached, no way to modulate? One solution is as you say, is to change flooring type. We were tempted to go with engineered oak as elsewhere in the house, from here - https://www.jfjwoodflooring.co.uk/supreme-engineered-oak-flooring-range-21mm-thick-220mm - I've still got a box of it in the garage which will help keep costs down. My concern with using it is the room will have large bifolds in it, and will be a walkway for kids/dogs and adults from outside to inside, so I worried about wear and tear on it. Maybe an entrance mat/runner and it'll be fine. Certainly the cheaper simpler option and removes the need for the UFH. Hmmm......
  6. Morning, For our new extension which will be approx 40m2, I'm planning on using an air2air heat pump and a couple of wall mounted units to provide the heating/cooling in the 2 rooms (study/bedroom, and a dining room). I've used Jeremy's heat loss spreadsheet which gives a heat loss of 565W for the worst case conditions for just the extensions rooms, so 2 small 2kW units such as these will be ample - https://www.saturnsales.co.uk/Daikin-3MXM52N-Outdoor-Unit-3-Emura-Indoor-Units.html (I plan on feeding the extra 3rd unit into our main house for some cooling) Now, onto the UFH bit. We've got wet UFH in the rest of our house. Unfortunately due to the location of the heat pump and manifolds on the opposite side of the house to the new extension, I don't think getting the wet loops out to the new bit is possible (without major disruption), hence going with the above for heating. However, we're planning on having ceramic tiles in the extension and don't want cold floors, which will be especially noticeable if going from nice warm floors in the main house out to the new extension. Soooooo......my current plan is to put some electric UFH in the extension, solely to take the chill off the floor and just warm it to 15-20degs (whatever feels 'good'). In this case, I think we'd probably need the lowest output UFH you can get. Hopefully this current plan sounds reasonable? Any other suggestions welcome. Floor build up is 150mm compacted hardcore/200mm PIR/150mm reinforced slab/15-20mm tiles. The lowest output UFH ive seen so far is this - https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/electric-underfloor-heating/underfloor-heating-loose-cables/100w-prowarm-loose-cable-kit . If i go for this loose cable rather than mats, I suppose I could space the cable out myself to reduce the overall output, but with the danger of cold spots if the spacing is too great. If anyone has any other recommendations for electric UFH that would be great. Also, do these electric UFH systems modulate their output at all, or is it simply full on until the target thermostat temp is reached and then off?
  7. Hi, thanks for the comments. Yes I was aware it is a hybrid roof. There is no architect involved, I'm coming up with the designs and specs here. As well over 2/3rds of the insulation is above the rafter, as per these links below, then I dont think there will be any issues - http://software.trada.co.uk/techinfo/library/send/3DC53CCF-9477-4190-9287-B4260CDA169D/How to design a flat roof/index.pdf - https://www.partel.ie/news/Flat-roof-construction---an-expert-guide-to-moisture-management/702 I carried a u-value calculation which includes a simple static dew point calc in there and the dew point is not reached until well through the PIR layer so there is no condensation risk to the structural timbers - https://1drv.ms/b/s!AkHh6rqs0aKmnul2ftYxythaIORavQ?e=uZ6cBN
  8. Hi, I've just had the draft building regs drawings from our structural engineers for our extension this week, based on my designs and specs after a few posts on here about it. The plan is to send them off to the LABC for full BR approval. The extension is planned 2 rooms, with flat green roof, timber framed and cedar clad to match our house. Heating is planned to used an air2air heat pump and air con units hung on the walls in the 2 rooms, and also I'm planning on using low power electric UFH with a floor stat only to take the chill off the floor tiles rather than actually heat the whole space. If anyone if feeling particularly bored or has lots of time on their hands, I'd really appreciate any feedback and comments. I've already noticed a few little discrepancies to change but nothing major. Below are links to the 2 docs I've been sent so far. https://1drv.ms/b/s!AkHh6rqs0aKmn4BjENnbHQ-uaVAo0g?e=VpwkbZ https://1drv.ms/b/s!AkHh6rqs0aKmn4BkpFMFIxqIkpMFbQ?e=iHD3oo
  9. So would a unit like this do for my orangery/study extension i'm planning, rather than having trickle vents on the windows?
  10. Whats the source of the heating and the flow temp from that of the water through the UFH circuits?
  11. Here you go - https://www.changeplan.co.uk/u_value_calculator.php
  12. No, the plywood was a former/shutter, open at the front i think, into which they stuffed the lime, then took the wood off and brushed it up to look ok. Ended up looking like this -
  13. Same with my house, builders made a plywood former and filled with lime, so there's a nice squarish profile covering the foam.
  14. Hi, Attached is a current sketch detail of my new extension slab/wall junction, with radon/dpm membranes. Had a meeting with builder/structural engineers last Friday. They, especially the builder, were keen to take the radon membrane back down the outside of the lightweight block and underneath the EPS/concrete block (think mainly as he thought it would be less fiddly and easier to do), and then wanted some kind of cavity tray detail with the DPM and were concerned about water getting in through the bottom of the Pavatherm. They mentioned maybe taking the current DPM back under the timber soleplate, and then maybe using another piece of plastic to form some kind of sloping out cavity tray. Like this:- Any suggestions or comments on either? Cheers.
  15. Netatmo? I use it in my crash pad, only had to change the old wall thermostat, although it's with a combi boiler.