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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/20/21 in all areas

  1. TBH I would use one set of brackets onto the stud and another onto standard PB fixings of some flavour. Won’t go anywhere.
    2 points
  2. Hi, I know SW6 well as used to work locally, what a lovely area you live in. Definitely keep persevering with an appeal and I hope you find a strong planning consultant. I know many of these companies will have ex planning officers etc who will be able to advise and support your case. I was reading about one company yesterday who also had the ex Head of planning from a local council now working for them which supported their success rates. Please don’t give up!
    2 points
  3. That’s an MI detail for a specific stone / recon stone lintel that requires a slip plane. Means the outer stone isn’t structural in any way and takes all the loading off it. Only works if you can get a concrete (or box lintel) the correct size and dimensions to match the stone on the inside leaf.
    1 point
  4. As I posted before I went to appeal and won. I told the planners I was going to appeal and they told me we would probably win if we did that but would not budge on their judgement (tossers).
    1 point
  5. @ToughButterCupIndeed - we read everything we could lay our hands on and worked out that a) they were wrong and b) we'd probably have to go to appeal but we'd try to get them to see sense first - stupid idea...... we should simply have let the application fail and gone straight to appeal! @JohnnytYep - this is where, if anywhere, consistency is applied. LPAs aren't consistent across the country and within LPAs, officers aren't consistent. Anyone wanting chapter and verse on case law on the NPPF should consult -> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Interpreting-NPPF-National-Planning-Framework/dp/1916431526 Excellent book and worth every penny if you want to find the relevant case law. Simon
    1 point
  6. Oh impulsive me! I just hit it with some black Rustoleum that needed to be used up: It's rustic...
    1 point
  7. Chalk is fairly permeable as an in place stratum. Once crushed if there is too much fines it can hold water and slow it's release hence my comment above 're grading
    1 point
  8. Something like a 20-40mm clean (503). This finer grading can be harder got with some chalk hence why it's worth asking.
    1 point
  9. There are still quite a few companies offering oak framed houses. Give some a call and ask about construction details and u-values.
    1 point
  10. There you are @oxo, hard won experience from @Johnnyt. Get a thicker skin, hit them hard. Get a full-on proper Planner. One who pays attention to detail - uncomfortably so.
    1 point
  11. You should just appeal and go through arguments against the reasons for refusal one by one. You could get a planning consultant but by giving you three clear reasons you have three easy points to argue. Frankly the map you have provided seems to show that 11/14 houses have all but identical extensions. It seems crazy to refuse yours. It also shows all the other nearby end houses with similar extensions. Is there a local right to appeal before going to a full appeal? I would right this up and threaten them with an appeal if they do not reconsider. It seems like nonsense. 1. Just for clarity the amenity they mean is outside space, you having more inside space is not relevant, otherwise everyone could just keep making their house larger. You need to gather as many similar applications nearby with the size of their gardens and extensions. Usually around 20 years of applications are available on line. It does look like you garden is a bit shorter so this may be an issue, but I doubt it is massively smaller. Again the house at the opposite end of the terrace also seems to have a very short garden, why was it not an issue there, the other two red boxed houses also have virtually no garden. Get their measurements if you can. There are probably also local guidelines on the percentage your garden you can build on. If it is 50% then why are they arguing against their own guidelines. Find the guideline and give the numbers for your extension. Often just putting these in writing negates subjective arguments e.g. the extensions cover an area of xx sq meters which is xx% of the garden ground compared ed to a guideline of yy% Also you should point out that they are contradicting their pre application advice. 2. Planning usually is a bit harder in end terrace/corner situations as they are more visible. However, this looks to be nonsense as the refusal gives the impression that the wall would be looming over a narrow footpath but in fact it appears that there is open space to the other side of the path. Did they miss this due to no visit? Again pictures and plans of similar approved extensions nearby, as shown in your red boxes. These look actually to be in a tighter situation than you. Why did conservation officer not object, yet planning thinks it is a conservation issue? 3. This again looks very dubious. Your extension is considerably further away from the terrace behind than many other extensions. Measurements again are your friend. Extensions at house x, y, z are xx metres from the opposing terraces. We are yy metres and much further away. In particular the extended house to the left in the map is way closer than you are, it is very tight to other buildings.
    1 point
  12. I've got two extracts in the Kitchen, and it works well with steam and smells, but I will give it a quick 5 min boost sometimes No problems in the bathrooms either.
    1 point
  13. Deals with kitchen ok. Shower could be better tbh. I wish I'd put directly over shower now although I'm sure bpc advised against. I do like particularly got and long showers though 20mins is about standard for me.
    1 point
  14. Here are the prices I have been quoted. It's interesting to see how much the price/performance figure varies (from 50p to almost £5). [t] Name lambda cost Price/Performance 90mm FrameTherm 32 £8.80/m2 £3.13 [lambda*cost/t] 90mm FrameTherm 35 £5.70/m2 £2.22 140mm FrameTherm 32 £?.??/m2 £?.?? {£14.11/m2} 90mm OmniFit Slab 35 £4.05/m2 £1.58 100mm RafterRoll 32 £14.15/m2 £4.58 75mm RafterRoll 32 £10.80/m2 £4.61 100mm LoftRoll 44 £1.15/m2 £0.51 150mm LoftRoll 44 £1.69/m2 £0.50 {£2.16/m2} 200mm LoftRoll 40 £?2.60/m2 ?£0.52 {£3.32/m2} 180mm OmniFit Stud 34 £18.05/m2 £3.41 Vari Rockwool Flexi 38 various £1.76 (e.g. £4.65/m2 for 100mm) All prices are from the same source except {prices}. You pay a large premium for self supporting rolls. OmniFit Slabs probably represent the sweet spot for Knauf between the rafters. It highlights how cheap the LoftRoll insulation is. I have heard of builders stapling this at rafter level and I can understand why. FactoryClad has a very large minimum order quantity. I have heard of price fixing of insulation in some territories and, given how expensive it is, I am not surprised. There must be a lot of fraud around it as well since someone could easily claim to have used something twice as expensive and it's hidden away, plus hard to tell even if you can see it.
    1 point
  15. I would advise preparing for an appeal (argumentation etc) and then get a local planning consultant to discuss this with the planners, with a 'look again' option held out as a way for them to gracefully stand down. We achieved this simply by producing some axiometric (i.e. as viewed on a 45o angle) drawings and low and behold the objections evaporated - it did not require changing the scheme, which had already been toned down once following the original refusal.
    1 point
  16. Let's face it, unless there is a policy change, you're not going to change opinion of the LPA My experience involving an infilling appeal in a village (outside boundary) in GB, after 2 applications and 2 appeals, the last being successful is once reasonableness has been exhausted, is to hit them and hit them HARD! Only then, would the LPA listen after they had to pay costs and I ended up with 2 properties on an enlarged plot. You have to be very thorough, persistent and try to find an angle for a costs award . You can then offer to drop the costs application if the LPA in the weight of the evidence choose not to defend the appeal. I also brought consistency to the table in my appeal and the relevant case law. You will get a fair crack of the whip with the Planning Inspectorate.
    1 point
  17. The electrician thinks the cost of running it most of the time will be cheap, but he likes spending my money!!!! im afraid if we don’t have measures in place to limit electricity usage then we might have some unhappiness when we get our first bills. He thinks I’m like a walking cashpoint. Little does he know that I live on beans on toast all week just so I can afford another roll of cable.
    1 point
  18. in that case the whole of the base needs to be 25mm smaller all round than the building and your building then overhangs the floor structure. You can then put some sort of DPC around the edges and a trim panel too to cover the ends and keep water out.
    1 point
  19. My alarm has just gone think it needs fuse would be wary of linking to temperamental alarm
    1 point
  20. Is there a cost implication or negligible? Which option is the simplest with least points of failure? Timer?
    1 point
  21. Very difficult to meet air tightness, We've had a large exposed frame extension and that was the only way I think you'd do it these days. In retrospect, I'd not do it again for the main structure, a single story room would be nice, the maintenance of it seems to be always ongoing.
    1 point
  22. No issue with a rad onto a stud but can’t see how it will only have one set of brackets unless it’s some sort of obscure shape such as the single upright with loops type rad ..??
    1 point
  23. Building Regulations Part H Approved Document (2015) https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf Sections 2.29 onward, notably Diagram 9 and Table 6, page 15 and page 16. All clearly stating the minimum gradients.
    1 point
  24. Got one of these and it is insulated and more importantly air sealed - seems to do a decent job https://www.toolstation.com/tb-davies-eurofold-timber-loft-ladder/p53695
    1 point
  25. Wish I'd known about this a few years ago!! Our 1st application was recommended for refusal by the case officer based on the pre-app report written by another officer. The plot is in the Green Belt but in-between a row of houses, so should have been recommended for permission to be granted based on the exception in the green belt for infill in villages. During discussions prior to the application going to committee, we pointed out that at the same time as the pre-app case officer was stating that 30m was too large a gap for the plot to be infill, she recommended granting permission for another application (also for infill in a village in the Green Belt) where the plot width was 100m. Permission was granted We couldn't get our case officer to make any concessions about consistency - he would always state that each application must be examined on its merits and this was repeated ad nauseum in the planning ctte meeting by the chief officer in answer to questions from ctte members about consistency. In the end the ctte was split 6-6 and the chairman voted against granting permission, we reapplied and had the exact same result the 2nd time. The appeal inspector though, essentially told the LPA they were 'WRONG' and permission should have been granted. We used all the various legal decisions about Green Belt and infill in our submission but I wish we'd known about this one as it would have backed up our request for consistency. And now due to that first officer in the pre-app report, we're 3 years down the line, should already have been living in the new house and are now faced with all the escalating costs due to Covid, Brexit etc. as we're only now about to break ground. If only we could make them accountable. Simon
    1 point
  26. I fitted one of these, are you looking for something better-insulated? https://www.keyliteroofwindows.com/products/loft-ladders/
    1 point
  27. Mapei do a cement coloured silicone. Mapesil LM Silicone Sealant.pdf
    1 point
  28. I used a breather membrane and hermetically sealed it to the blockwork by stapling an expanded metal lath over the edge and wet plastering over it
    1 point
  29. Mixing oak and pine (even if the pine is stained / dyed) is never going to end well imo. You will never, ever, make pine look like oak. They will also colour differently over time and with exposure to their surroundings. If you cant do it all in oak, I'd only paint the softwood if you have any oak doors or other natural timber surfaces exposed. Trying to mix totally different timbers and attempting to fake a look to match almost invariably looks awful.
    1 point
  30. Are you planning on a parge coat? No reason why block construction can’t be airtight - just needs attention to detail where different materials meet (as you are considering with the Tony tray) and some sort of render/parge coat on the blocks. Standard builder dot and dab won’t be airtight unless real care is taken by the builders (which is unlikely).
    1 point
  31. @oxo, I said I'd point you to some resources on Consitency in Planning. The Importance of Consistency in Planning: a good overview An earlier thread on BH about the subject Want the source of the decision? North Wiltshire District Council v Secretary of State for the Environment (1993) 65 P & CR137. (widely referred to online)
    1 point
  32. It's definitely an important point the the Conservation Officer didn't make a formal comment. The buzzwords are 'the proposal must preserve or enhance the Conservation Area'. Ours was deemed neutral because behind trees, so think a greenery idea is a good one.
    1 point
  33. Well @oxo, looks like you got your answer. Yes, appeal A quick canter through some of the reasons you should do so: COVID and no visit. - Pure tosh. Are they saying they can't jump in a car and visit cos of C-19? Sorry, that's convenient lazy-arsed b0ll0cks. Inspectors are at this very moment cruising the country on Inspection visits and have been throughout. Lazy, lazy lazy argument. out of character - no site visit hmmmm, how can a reasonable judgement be made if no site visit ? limits (to) size and space - tell me where those measures are limitless... do an accurate comparison of yours vs other locals, and suggest a compromise in %age terms. Skin the cat differently. Ignore local objectors. Develop a thick skin. In the words of one contibutor Stuff Em. Local comparisons: your post earlier today, excellent - the start of an evidence base: now go and get 3 more. Document them carefully. Present them well. Presentation and accuracy are key - the reputation of any Planner you employ should be based on results, and not local lore. Look at the decisions he / she wrote and analyse them carefully. You need concise, punchy, accurate attention to detail. Not reputation. Time to change Planner? Dont make yourself an easy target. Know the guts of all the local decisions in similar properties- yep, hard work. But the exercise will repay the effort. Know why applications were refused, and why they succeeded. Take @MikeSharp01's idea and run with it. It'll give the thing an interesting twist: sustainability / green agenda. Did I mention, develope a thick skin? Oh yeah..... sorry. Worth saying again. Persistence. Ian
    1 point
  34. Good idea, needs more gargoyle.
    1 point
  35. I went for oak veneer for all my architraves, skirtings and half my door casings (different wall thickness meant the veneered casing was not suitable for all openings). Stairs and window cills are real oak. All doors, architrave and skirtings are by Deanta. I think casings were around £40 - 50 ea. Architrave was only about £39 for a pair (enough to do both sides). Skirting was around £7 per meter.
    1 point
  36. Perhaps look at oak veneered mdf? I mean for internal use.
    1 point
  37. I also used frametherm for my room in the roof insulation. If it's cut to suit the gap in the rafters then it won't go anywhere. Like @ProDave I left a section not boarded for a few months waiting on plumbers to work their magic and it never moved a mm.
    1 point
  38. I was using the loft roll for insulating my sun room floor so it did not need to be self supporting. Frametherm 35 used in my ceiling, self supporting between the rafters before being boarded. I did one test section where I put a strip in long before I was ready as a test and left it there for 6 months and it did not sag or fall out.
    1 point
  39. What is the application? I successfully used Frametherm 35 for wall and roof insulation. If it does not need to be self supporting, I paid £20 per ROLL (about 6 square metres) of 150mm Knauff loft roll
    1 point
  40. I've got an AirFlow unit, and am very happy with it. AirFlow can design your system for you, at least they could in 2016. They have a very competent design office. I'm pretty sure that the system design was free, I can find no record of paying for it, accept they charged me £50 + VAT for iteration number 4. But that was after we'd agreed everything, and they'd issued me 45 page design report etc., so I thought that was quite reasonable. AirFlow then provide a full BoM and a target price, and you take that around to all their distributors to get the best price you can. I found that different distributors get different terms with AirFlow, depending on their sales volumes, and it turned out for me that no one could beat Travis Perkins. My local TP didn't have a clue what I was ordering, but they ordered it and delivered it for substantially less than the target price from AirFlow. AirFlow then provided very good telephone support for my self-install and later for getting the communication running between Loxone and the AirFlow unit.
    1 point
  41. Peter's suggestion is the bees knees but means crawling under to fix the PIR. A half way house might just be to fix battens across underneath the posi joists to support the existing PIR dropped down to the bottom, and use Earthwool as the infill above the PIR. You want te whole floor up to do this properly. Then an air tight membrane all joints taped over the top before putting the floor back down again. P.S Posi joists would not have been my choice. I would ave chosen Engineered I beams. They then are easy to fit a bottom panel of OSB that just drops in onto the bottom chord and you fill with insulation, no web section to have to fill. (that paragraph for the benefit of anyone thinking of using posi joists in a similar situation)
    1 point
  42. ? guide was in. My problem was I knew where I wanted the bend to happen but didn't give too much thought as to how to work out it occurred where I wanted it. Lots of bending, straightening, bending and frustration then hey presto, I'm left with that abomination to the plumbing trade?
    0 points
  43. Some days I just have the toast and no beans ??.
    0 points
  44. Time travel maybe.
    0 points
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