JFDIY

Members
  • Content Count

    406
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

JFDIY last won the day on June 13 2020

JFDIY had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

148 Excellent

1 Follower

About JFDIY

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Midlands

Recent Profile Visitors

523 profile views
  1. Excellent, does this still involve the remote sensor to the rear of the backbox, or using the internal one built into the thermostat faceplate?
  2. Have you considered smashing a load of holes in the white backplate, then spacing that off the wall (if needed) to get airflow
  3. What about making a spacer plate to sandwich behind the stat and protrude below enough to house the sensor. Could make from acetal or white perspex sheet and polish the edges to look decent.
  4. Mate of mine has a scruffy hi Viz jacket he always puts on when he goes to buy anything. If you look like you have money some places will pick a price accordingly.
  5. The wickes one is worth doing (assuming they have a branch near you) 10% off for making up a letterhead and business card for Joe blogs home improvements. Surprising how competitive they are on some things and how handy out of hours so might as well get a bit off. They're owned by Travis Perkins yet offer better than TP's price on some things.
  6. Definitely lag the cold to kitchen, nice to have cool(er) water when making a glass of juice/water in the summer
  7. How often are you likely to need to change the individual room temps? Just wondering if you can use the in-riom locations for a remote sensor and move the 'stats to the be next to the wiring centre at the other end of the cable? Though you might be then into a calibration exercise due to cable length (resistance) shifting the remote sensor output. You can get sensor enclosures reasonably cheap, bit like these; https://evatron.com/enclosures/sensor-enclosures/en30w-sensor-enclosure/
  8. I think it's the same as a grundfoss/reliance thermoguard mixer setup, notes are available, but the return loop to boiler and cold manifold are common with no valves and can be fitted either way. Does the boiler pump stop and just leave the ufh pump going? What do flow meters show for the loops in manifold. Something is being 'dead-headed' and causing chatter. As mentioned by others above a stethoscope approach with a piece off wood or large screwdriver to your ear and suspect parts will help you find what is making the noise, but this may well not be the cause of the problem. I still wonder if you have rads elsewhere if one is open, or if you need a differential bypass valve in the system.
  9. Had another look and I think the valve might be ok, be good to get the pukka JG notes though. How are the motorised valves configured, are they shutting before the pump has finished running? You may be able to hold the one serving the manifold slightly open if it has a manual lever ( don't latch it as you'll make unwanted electrical contacts inside it). See if when the pump is noisy moving the lever to open the valve off its seat, stops the noise, if so the pump is being starved of incoming water .
  10. Think your blending valve might be in the wrong way, not sure it makes a difference without a schematic or installer notes, but it spears the boiler connection to right in the middle of blending valve should go to the cold side of the manifold. Attached photo from JG website shows the issue, all the pictures I could find show the manifold configured with pump to the left. If you spin the mixer so the dial is pointing towards the wall it would be more as designed. ( Space permitting)
  11. Is there any by-pass valve or a radiator permanenly on without a TRV (thermostatic valve) Might be worth trying one in a bathroom for example.
  12. Is the rest of the house sapping the heat? I had issues with one of those actuators trying to get it to calibrate, the floor was always warm. In the end I loosened the body about one turn, did the calibration, then once completed tightened it back down on the manifold. Been fine since, I did email salus but never got a reply. I'd try running the calibration exercise a few times as I'm sure they get better each time. Failing that You could try the opposite of my bodge, but you'd need to just slacken the actuator to allow the pin to come up more after calibration to prove it. then contact wunda or salus to check if it's a common issue
  13. JFDIY

    Having a Go

    Even the pros can make a pig's ear of a job, I just spotted this while checking out a location on Google maps. Years ago I wouldn't have noticed the perps.....
  14. Try the re-calibration procedure, sounds like something went wrong when you first switched it on. You have to have stable or rising temperature on the hot side of manifold. Also if your floor was warm to start with it will have possibly fooled it with calculating the flow direction as water in return side was already hot.
  15. With heindseight I'd put it closest to the point of most frequent use. This may be to serve the kitchen/utility or a compromise of a mid point between kitchen and bathrooms. Ignore the infrequent room (use small bore pipe for faster hot water response to basin) and don't stress over the minor pressure loss due to height, it matters on a gravity system but less so on a pressurised one.