JFDIY

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JFDIY last won the day on June 13

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About JFDIY

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  1. Have you got your building regulations drawings approved or are you working under a building notice? Without those you may struggle to get them to accept you've made a start. For us, we piped in some sewers 10m and poured two 1m long footings that needed inspecting prior to pouring the concrete. That said the church next to us have a raft foundation for an extension so just dug 0.75m of the ground away in that area to constitute a start. You could dig out some decent footings, get them inspected and cast in some concrete with re-bar loops conveniently poking out the top, and polystyrene breaks sub-surface so you can break them and lift them out with a big digger when you need to later on.
  2. Only way to salvage that is a joining strip to provide a proper drainage route, gate to say it but only places you'll see them is where they re-roof a semi-detached and leave the neighbours original, see it a lot on local authority housing where the privately owned one next to it isn't done at the same time.
  3. They panel areas at my work like this and it looks quite good for the amount of effort involved, just keep your fixings away from the edge so you can fill and paint without loosing the edge detail
  4. Either a double scaffold clip, or buy another lifting sling and just wrap it around the cross-over and it will share the load through the two poles.
  5. Have a look for a steel stillage, you can get them with solid or mesh floors.https://metalcagesandpallets.co.uk/collections/all/products/metal-steel-mesh-stillage-with-removable-front-shallow-refurbished?variant=31757722026081 I guess the scaffolders call them single clamps. https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk/products/details/25.html You could also use half clamps to secure to the masonry with Rawl bolts, but you'd need to be cock-on with positioning https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk/products/details/1318.html Personally I'd leave the other two vertical poles long instead and run the lifting member to them. More stable due to being anchored to blockwork and leaves loading access from two sides The diagonals you show in later drawing will obviously help, but I doubt needed for 150kg
  6. Correct, but lap type clamps will be do-able if you build them as you go. But there not as strong, usually used for handrails, and under the planks
  7. Is the jib going to swing? If not, take two opposite poles higher and have a scaffold pole across the two to share the load, I'd choose the ones bolted to wall. In fact you could take three vertical poles higher then use a ratchet strap as a 'handrail/'edge protection for when you're loading
  8. I had mine set to 4bar for a few days checking for leaks, I dropped it to about 1.5 bar the night before screening, there was only about 30ml of water that made the difference. As those above say, a few degrees temp change can cause a modest change in volume and it has nowhere to go without the expansion vessel. The annoying thing is when you mark the gauge with a big of tape to check for leaks, then over 24hrs are seeing such big changes you can't really decide if it's good or not. In the end I decided that if there was any pressure left in after a few days then the pipes were good and a minor leak at the manifold would either seal itself or could be felt with later.
  9. Think they're having your pants down.😂 Wickes are best for cement round here, £4.20 a bag all in, don't forget you can get a trade card for 10% off. And £60 Inc VAT for a bulk bag of sand from Travis Perkins delivered Or £42 at wickes even with the £30 delivery fee on top makes.me think they've not given you anything like a decent price.
  10. JFDIY

    Retro UFH

    Having UFH can only help, and our experience is if you put your feet on the warm floor you actually don't mind the room temp being a bit cooler. Insulation below the screed and in the ceiling will also help. Make sure the pipe spacing of the UFH is quite tight (150mm or less) to help with the vaulted ceiling loss Worst case is that if it doesn't work then you re-instate the rads, or leave them in for this winter and see how you go before removing them?
  11. If it's down already then measure from whatever was declared as the datum for the floor if it's your project. Or is it somewhere you've bought already done, that is now showing a more serious issue? If not containing underfloor pipes, you could drill it and see where you break through, assuming it's over insulation it will go soft and you can gauge the point of breakthrough as the depth. Need a bit more info on the make up and what you're trying to determine I think.
  12. JFDIY

    Retro UFH

    Cemfloor quote that you can go as thin as 25mm over heating pipes if that helps. See also webber 4310 as a member on here said you could do 30mm including pipes https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/13427-col57-introduction/
  13. Are here any special requirements? I had quotes from the local council dept and other people they regularly worked with, then decided to look outside the county and found a self employed guy who was very good for less than half the price. He even gave me a hand for a day on the tools demolishing the old building, which helped me but also gave him the chance to do a better job reporting on the site history because he could see the methods of construction and date things better. He was on site for foundation digging and again happy to assist on the end of a shovel rather than watch everyone else. Drop me a message if you'd like to contact him and I'll dig out his details. I think Bedfordshire should be within his area - he's Leicestershire based.
  14. Buy an old forklift mast and bolt it to the wall, small hydraulic pack and away you go.
  15. I'm a bit late to the party on this; I made a ladder hoist some years ago when tiling my roof I used a 7m ladder to get to the height I needed. A friend borrowed it recently for his own place, assembled onto a 4m ladder this time. I'd happily out 100kg on it. Wouldn't need much extra work to take more weight. Hoist was a 125kg jobbie for sub-£50 at the time.