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  1. Yes, you just need the total flow to be correct, doesn't matter if you one or ten outlets from a compliance point of view.
  2. As above, but if you must have a Y branch, Osma/wavin 4d492 and cap the redundant leg. Travis Perkins usually discount osma massively so don't believe the list price.
  3. I've used them, similar to the Marshalltown ones, and they were a god send for laying 160mm wide 7kn blocks, they were very heavy, but these let you hold the block with two hands from above and prevent bending down on the lower courses. If I were buying i'd get the Amazon pair, two for the price of one, I'm sure they'll be just fine.
  4. I did wonder, I guess I'm looking for some plastic barrier pipe to allow threading without work-hardening like the PEX Al PEX probably will. I did ask Wundafloor, but they didn't seem to offer anything.
  5. It's a little bit more involved than suggested in the posts above. Certain models of the vent-axia range allow you to couple up a cooker hood, from what I can see, the hood is no more than a housing with greese filters and lights, its power is supplied from the mvhr unit, when the hood is switched on the extract speed increases to 100% (or your desired speed) and the inlet speed changes to 30% (again this is programmable ), the bypass is also opened to stop any fouling of the heat exchanger. I intend to build into my celling an extractor/hood arrangement with grease filters, and some electric actuated valves, so when this happens the increased extraction is mostly in the kitchen. I've wired the unit as a trial to test the mode switching which is pretty straightforward I've found the standard humidy controlled setting works so well the boost function doesn't really need hard wiring in at the moment, but it's there and might be better suited to when our next bathroom comes on line which is a lot further away from the unit so could be used to reduce lag. I also use the low mode (supposed to be when house is unoccupied), but I use it on an overnight timed basis to lower the noise (it's barely audible anyway) when sleeping. So work out the unit size you need and look through all the manufacturer documentation you can, there may be others, but I settled on the vent-axia one because of this and all the other features that come as standard, I guess there are other makes which may have similar, but they don't make it easy to find out, hence my closed shop comment in the earlier post.
  6. Which pipe is that? looks flexible to go the route you have done. I'm looking for UFH and have got to thread through metal web joists a lot
  7. Mine is a 100yr old barn, converted 10 years ago, by no means passive standards, I'm adding on a large extension and wanted to avoid the cost of a downdraft extractor for a kitchen hob in an island. We've always had issues with condensation and we've tried various things like keeping the place hotter and having windows on vent etc. I saw the £1k+ for a kitchen extractor and decided to put it towards MVHR, I'm yet to couple up the extension, but all the ducts are in. I've sited our unit above the bathroom in the original barn as this is the only place without vaulted ceilings. By comparison I was quoted £5.5k for an installed system, about £4k for self install but my own spec etc is going to run to about £3.5k with what I believe to be better hardware. Sure you can do it cheaper, but I wanted a self managing unit with humidity control, summer bypass and also a cooker hood mode, the last requirement only really left one option which was a vent-axia unit.
  8. Snap, I was looking into MVHR and there seems to be a closed shop from installers and suppliers to some extent, this place has by far the most info, and real world experience. I've DIY'd my own install from scratch (as have many others) and while I don't have figures to back it up, I'd say it has transformed the feel of our house, no condensation at all, previously I'd have wet windows every morning and a stale feeling to the place. I've yet to balance it up and I'm about 50% over suggested rates at the moment based on a quick check when I got my anemometer. Enjoy the banter, the 'bogus' thread has some interesting views
  9. Go with the mfrs recommendations on the vent area needed, that should know best. If there is a condensate drain on the unit then can't see an issue with s fall that goes either away from or to the unit, or a combination, what you don't want is anywhere water can gather, so no U-bend scenarios.
  10. You don't need flow restrictors if you swap to the salus self balancing actuators, that would save changing the manifold and draining it etc. As mentioned above, is the pump running and do the main manifold sections get warm? Also I could be wrong but I've only ever seen the actuators on the return to manifold, yours appear to be on the supply side, is there a chance the higher pressure on the supply side is blowing them closed and closing off the flow to the zones?
  11. Mine comes in as 32mm mdpe, then to a 28mm compression into which goes a 28mm/22mm fitting reducer followed by a short section of copper to a brass stop-tap, then a Tee to take an un-regulated feed to garden tap, where you might want the full mains pressure. The house run is 22mm into a 3bar regulator, similar to @Neil above, then splits for cold and unvented cylinder. I was wary of using plastic stop-tap, which based on @AnonymousBosch's experience seems to have been a wise choice, also insist on an isolation point outside the property for the same reason if you're going to have an unvented cylinder then it will most likely come with a regulator which you put before the cylinder to keep both hot and cold at the same pressure, this is for two reasons, to protect the cylinder from running at too high a pressure but also so if you have mixer taps there isn't a higher pressure at the cold trying to back-feed the cylinder and again over pressurising it. Oh and don't forget the drain cock, which I think I've recently boxed into the wall - doh!
  12. The losses in a 25mm pipe are proportional to the length, so a 32mm pipe will flow more even with a few meters of 25mm at the start. I fitted a 32mm supply for my place (a 40m run if memory serves) the water authority would only use a 25mm tapping off the main and a pre-piped 25mm meter box, it was then stepped up to my side of things and I felt it was all in vain, especially as the fittings within your property become large and bulky with 32mm. That said it only cost about £30 more and I'd probably do the same again.
  13. Foam is Probably not UV stable either. You cut scribe and cut a capping strip to match the windows and hide it.
  14. What make and model of mvhr are you using?