MortarThePoint

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About MortarThePoint

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  1. I'm looking at a total liquid screed thickness of 40mm, but there is no insulation between that and 50mm of concrete so I expect that is OK. Would you still be nervous?
  2. One of the £26k quotes is for fully painted, but not so keen on their design unfortunately and 8 weeks is a long time to wait to check a sample is OK as they don't have an example of the flush casement design we are after.
  3. We've specified flush casement timber windows and are pulling our hair out. I think normally we'd be touring various companies and looking at their options and buying with the confidence of having seen the windows. Covid19 makes that difficult. We've ended up with suppliers that seem to fit in to two categories, those that compete by having a good product at a good price and those that have a good product with a high price but a major sales and support offering. The price difference seems to be around £26k vs >£40k. One of the companies we are most drawn to has a really nice looking product, but they don't supply them paint finished, only supply them primer coated, treated or bare. Has anyone had a go at painting just primered windows? I can see the exterior surface and interior surface may be easy enough, but painting in with the mechanism seems like a nightmare. There would be a lot of painting to get done.
  4. I've only got a 2m straight edge, but I'll give it a try. I'm not clear how the remedy would change though as it's the same net effect isn't it.
  5. I have a supporting wall close to midspan (62%) and all the trusses look to be resting on it well except for one. This one is about 1mm above and deflects down onto the wallplate if I hang my weight from it. In the photo I've slipped a piece of galvanised steel between the two. Is this a good idea or should I do something else?
  6. I have a supporting wall close to midspan (62%) and all the trusses look to be resting on it well except for one. This one is about 1mm above and deflects down onto the wallplate if I hang my weight from it. In the photo I've slipped a piece of galvanised steel between the two. Is this a good idea or should I do something else?
  7. I did wonder about hiring a Paslode, but screws are petty easy and only dropped one noggin on my face so far.
  8. I've heard of people using construction adhesive with a flexible component in order to stop squeaks. That's the only reason I'd consider it. As you say it doesn't have to be pretty, but I really want to avoid squeaks.
  9. Interesting. I had wondered if anyone ever glues and screws noggins.
  10. I was wondering about your approach to framing (stud partitions, joists, noggins etc). I haven't tried them, but GoldScrew Plus look interesting as they have the drillbit like feature that Spax have. No idea if it really makes a difference or is just marketing.
  11. Naughty to resurrect an old thread, but @Onoff and @PeterW do you still drill and countersink?