MortarThePoint

Is that 30m set by regulations or looking at local emptying companies? If the later, you may just be able to buy a length of compatible hose and store it for whenever they come.

Below is a rough diagram of our main bathroom. The shower, toilet, bath and basin will all converge and exit through the wall to a soil pipe on the outside. Viewed from the front of the house, it is hidden by the chimney. I am wondering how close to the chimney to have the pipe. Is there any conventional wisdom on what's going to look right? It will exit the wall into an elbow and then go vertically down (no pipe above wall entry point). I'm also conscious that there are extra wall ties at the corner, so there is a reasonable chance I'll be hitting one of those. I had hoped to pilot drill (10mm) from the inside and then core drill (117mm) from the outside. I wanted to do it it that order so I get the height correct relative to the floor, but I may not be able to get the drill in to do that since it is below screed level. It may just work since the screed is around 50mm thick. I plan to tidy up on the outside with a pipe snug.

Is there much more to the article that how cheap panels have become?

That's amazing That's the normal way of looking at it but if you a considering it's cost Vs other roofing/cladding/etc it's very relevant. It's about the same cost as European Oak timber cladding so you could even put it on the walls of an outbuilding as well as the roof.

Interesting concept, amazing state of affairs when solar panels are cheap enough for that I can quickly see panels for £50/m2 (500W panels, 2.1m x 1.1m) which is only about double the cost of plain clay tiles.

I assume shower trays are a different matter though as they get tiled down to on the wall don't they?

Am I right to think toilet bowl and basin pedestal don't get fitted until after tiling?

The plasterer is pretty much done now, so the next external trade I have is the tiler who I am currently looking for but thinking about what I need done before they start. The rooms to be done are: Bathrooms (floors, walls to just over window cill level and shower cubicles to above head height) Loo (floor possibly wall to just over window cill level) Kitchen / Family room (floor) Utility (floor) I am trying to work out the jobs I need to get done before the tiler can start and think the list looks like: Bathrooms: plumb 110mm soil pipe to toilet position but not fit toilet(?) plumb shower feeds to shower bar tank shower area fit shower tray and waste plumb shower waste to soil stack fit & plumb bath with box-in frame but not fit panel (v-groove timber) plumb (feed and waste) basin as far as is behind tiles but not fit basin unless it is solely wall mounted (i.e. not vanity or pedestal) Loo: fit any plumbing connection points that are to stick through the tiling understand how waste will connect to stack connection in floor and make any adaptations needed Kitchen / Family: trim island 'conduit' (110mm soil pipe used) to near flush with floor so it doesn't stick up too much above tile though careful to avoid allowing mopping water to enter this so worth being >1cm above finished tile level extend screed into the exterior door thresholds. this is because I had the screed done before fitting door steps or doors (wouldn't do that again) Utility: fit door lining to cupboard extend screed into the exterior door threshold Screed was fitted >12mo ago and I have already had the UFH flow higher than likely end use temperatures. Any thoughts as to what I have overlooked?

You have to bear in mind each sales person is going to try to make theirs look better. Even if there wasn't glue, the beads would fill the space. I like the draining capability of beads. Watch some YouTube videos of that. Mineral wool on the other hand soaks it up and can go mouldy, though the newer wool may have biocides to stop that. A patchy installation should be observable with a thermal camera in cold weather. As a retrofit I would concentrate on minimising the negatives rather than maximising the positives.

Was that a complete reskim then? If so did you put MultiFinish between the original skim and the paper jointing tape?

The vast majority of rooms have gone fine and are crack free, but the two largest rooms downstairs have quite a few hairline cracks at board edges. All edges were definitely scrim taped (Gyproc FibaTape Xtreme). The rooms are 6.4x4 and 10x4.6 and each plastered with Thistle MultiFinish in a single hit. The larger room was 15mm TE MR boards primed with Thistle BondIt. The other was 15mm SE WallBoard. It was a bit warm inside for this time of year 'on site', but something like 17C. Boards were attached to Gyplyner system (400c/c with brackets at 900c/c max.) and screwed at 200mm c/c or 150mm c/c at board edges. I don't think the cracks appeared in the first couple of days, but can't be certain. The door is sometimes left open as work is done letting in cold air, but the room temperature has pretty much stayed above 15C. I know about EasiFill/Paper Joint Tape/ EasiFill feathered in and sanded approach, but that would leave a slight hump and I made a huge effort to get the MF and plasterboard super flat. Has anyone tried the Crack Free paints? Two come to mind (linked below) but I'm worried that they are too good to be true. First hand experience would be very helpful. @nod have you encountered them or are they snake oil? The cracks are very fine. PolyCell Crack Free Ceiling Paint Zinsser Ceiling Pro 5-in-1 Some impressive pictures amongst the pictures of leaking tins.

I dug it the hard way and it wasn't too bad 🙂 I'd say it's a good DIY job for anyone who enjoyed school science experiments

This is as much a roofing question as a window one I suppose. I have a rectangular bay window with 5 lights across the front and one at each return. Above the windows there is going to be about 45mm of painted timber and then the soffit leading out to the facia, guttering and roof structure. I don't want to do a mitre joint as it would be tricky and feels a bit fussy (shout if you think that's a mistake). That leaves two choices for a butt joint, both depicted below. Which is the better of these two options. I am leaning towards the top one as it will be harder to make out the joint when looking square on to the front of the house. What is the normal way to go here?

Some good thoughts

This link is now dead, but it can't be found by Googling ir761.pdf. I am attaching here anyway. Gypsum board walls: transmission loss data Halliwell, R. E.; Nightingale, T. R. T.; Warnock, A. C. C.; Birta, J. A. 20331556.pdf