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About jfb

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  1. you can always shave a bigger peg down but not the other way round!
  2. will be scraping the existing back so not simply going on top
  3. By 20mm base coat do you mean a base coat with 20mm aggregate? Which then needs sealing (with what?) if no wear course going on. So in theory you could have just an 80mm layer so long as it is sealed. I have measured the track on google and it comes to 215 metres - width looking at 3.5m. When you say 'done properly' in your estimate peter do you include materials/work for compacted sub base, tarmac and edging (kerbs or are there other options?)?
  4. Anyone with knowledge on tarmac? I have a 300m single track I share with neighbours and there is movement to tarmac the lot as it is a pothole nightmare despite multiple filling ins. Tractors/lorries all drive down it fairly regularly. I know there is a trade off between quality/depth of sub base and longevity but there are significant cost issues. 1. What is the minimum overall depth of tarmac anyone would suggest? 2. What size aggregate would be best? 2. How important is it to have a wearing course? Or can one get away with one layer? Presumably a wearing course has finer aggregate - 10mm? 6mm? Cheers
  5. I believe the first course has to be layed very precisely to make the rest go smoothly. Something to think about when hiring workers and assessing their work.
  6. What does it say on the tin?
  7. I've used hydraulic lime bags that are well out of date and they have been fine. Never had much success with out of date bags of multi finish! Goes off much too quick.
  8. Could I just go for a basin trap with built in AAV as I will have some issues getting an AAV behind the toilet? I think I hadn't quite clicked that an anti syphon trap is essentially an AAV.
  9. I have a small shower room in a small outbuilding/office with waste plumbing as in the drawing. It goes to a sewage treatment plant and this is vented at the end of the run through the roof of a barn conversion about 25m upstream of the shower room/office. In the interest of the toilet not sucking water out of basin/shower traps is my best option: 1. fit anti syphon traps to both shower and basin 2. fit an AAV - if so where should it go? can it go where I indicate on the drawing or should it be closer to the toilet (upstream of the shower and basin) 3. Fit all the above. 4. Don't bother with any of them - it will all be fine!
  10. As punter suggests - much much trickier to retrofit.
  11. Sips should be reasonably airtight as a build method without going the extra mile . I would just plan for Mvhr from the outset and make sure it's as airtight as you can get.
  12. I would mix up a dryish hydraulic lime/sand mortar and point that in having taken out any existing loose mortar. Finish with limewash to match existing. As Jeremy asks - do you know if the existing brick infill panels have the original lime mortar? And is the paint a limewash or a more modern paint that might not be breathable?
  13. interesting point. I'll have to check the electric situation. I have a 16mm feed about 40m from the 3 phase d/n it is coming from. Only plugs, lights and electric heater so I guess bigger than 8.5kw might be possible.
  14. I used some stone that came out of a floor I dug up and a render finish.