jfb

Members
  • Content Count

    340
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

63 Good

About jfb

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Oxfordshire

Recent Profile Visitors

1,180 profile views
  1. You just have to get windows that are large enough. Mine are a little too high for regs so I have to put in a permanent shelf/step up for access.
  2. I had a garden studio shed built out of SIPs including the floor and installed by a couple of Canadians where it is more common. They just put in some concrete piers and built off that. I didn't worry about vermin underneath and didn't have a problem (or maybe I just didn't notice the damage being done!). Anyway if the concrete base isn't already installed I'd definitely do that - much cheaper and provides the ventilation it needs.
  3. Any recommendations? For me ideally it would be able to reverse for cooling and have simple controls in the 5kw range.
  4. Normally Mvhr doesn’t move enough volume of air to be considered useful in heat redistribution.
  5. No, I often get called by landlords to pat test a brand new item. But Temp is still right?
  6. Is it not a regulation to have an accessible 3 pole isolator? If so how do you keep tenants from it?
  7. I always thought this whole thread is a weird form of therapy for us all!
  8. When I get a chance I’ll check it is still working - interesting I had assumed it is working but I guess it is possible it’s not.
  9. I’ve got an issue with mould growth in a Brink Mvhr unit. The extract fan has considerable mould on it. None in the ductwork/ manifold before it. The extract vents upwards (not ideal I know no) to a pitched roof cowl. So I presume the wet warmer air is condensing near the roofline and coming back down into the Mvhr unit. The ductwork is all insulated/eps ducting. the unit has been installed for about 5 years. I had the same problem when I last took it apart for a proper clean and I had to remove similar mould from the fan. I can see some mould in the heat exchanger on the extract side as well. given that both supply and extract go upwards through the roof can anyone suggest anything to help with the situation? More insulation around the duct to roof cowl?
  10. Having a bit of bother with the main water in to a barn conversion. I think the leak is from the stopcock - not from the compression joints but where the tap section (sorry don’t know technical term!) meets the main bit. See the picture where my finger is pointing. is that a likely place for a leak (stopcock is brand new)? I’ve tried tightening it but not sure I can go any more but there still seems to be a little leak. Any suggestions?
  11. it was a cheap shot I admit- I don't have a magic solution! But it really does seem poor for a scheme that already has low supplier take up to be a really slow payer to the suppliers.
  12. It appears that suppliers are having big problems getting paid months after the work has been done - is it yet another quality government outsourcing success! https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/jan/28/green-homes-grant-uk-standards-body-calls-on-government-to-pay-up
  13. boards should be glued down and screwed. expanding PU glue ideally. think there are some spray foams designed for this job as well. this sort of thing - https://www.stick2products.co.uk/products/chipstick-d4-liquid-pu-foaming-chipboard-adhesive
  14. Seriously Zoot - just do what Dave has asked multiple times and turn all radiators off but a rad in a cold room. Make sure you have temperature readings of that room so you know the current baseline (both room temp and rad temp as good as you can). Compare with how the temperature measurements you get when only this rad is getting heat. Report back to us with the figures before and after. It really is easy to do and pretty quick to get the results back. I wouldn't start any process of 'going up the chain' (which I understand you are loathe to do) until you have done this.