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My tiling behind the bath. Glad I did it this way as after moving in had a small weep on one joint so had to re-do it. Made sure it was easy to lift bath onto two pieces of eps and there where the unions, took me half an hour from start to finish.

Fark me, the thickener was £65 for a litre, I think I used 150ml, so that is a right con but if you build the £65 in with the total amount to do the whole job 25kg desmopol. £175 1 litre thickener £65 matting £40 so £280 did 10m plus 7m upstand.

Does Home Assistant have an option to do that Yes, I've taped DS18B20 thermistors inside the insulation on the feeds to each shower/bath hot tap. These could connect to loxone via a 1-wire extension but I'm pretty happy using EspHome with home assistant and a small ESP D1 mini board to read them. My goal is all mandatory functions (lighting, heating) will work in loxone server autonomously and any fancy optional automations will be driven from home assistant. So if anything is flaky unreliable or I'm not about to be admin or we sell the house, the home assistant stuff can just be turned off/removed and the core functions all continue fine in loxone on its own.

Should be OK in that case, will be 4.5kg per fixing

I prefer these for plasterboard https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-hollow-wall-anchors-8-16mm-m5-x-52mm-10-pack just make sure it’s not in a stud, but if it is then just use a wood screw ?

Well, funny you should ask actually. It's been on for two years now and recently I noticed that along some of the edge it was beginning to look like I could see the trims underneath. Actually, at first I thought it was dust/dirt, perhaps from birds sitting on the trims, but getting up there and rubbing it showed this not to be the case. (Not the prettiest of finishes there, but the rest of the roof is better when viewed as a whole) I got in touch with the builder who in turn contacted his roofing sub-contractor who said he'd come and take a look. To cut a long story short he never did and so I got in touch with the supplier as they arranged the warranty (product only) when it first went up. They came out to visit (really great bloke from Raven Roofing in Swindon) and despite being very familiar with the product and its use over many years he'd never seen this before. He didn't think it was UV degradation (as I thought might be the case) as this tends to make it go chalky when it happens (usually in far hotter countries where it is used a lot more than here in the UK) and we agreed it didn't actually seem like the white was the trims underneath as there's no definable 'edge' - it really does seem like it has just discoloured. Still not desirable and so he is going to get in touch with the manufacturer and see what they say and, ultimately, seek them providing replacement product to recoat the whole roof (only 15m2, less a 2.5m x 1.5m lantern opening). Amazingly he even said he'd do the recoating himself given I was having so much trouble getting my builder's roofer interested (not to mention all the issues I had with the poor finish when first applied which ended up getting a recoat even then). So, I do seem to have an issue here but I think I'm still a fan of Desmopol. Sure, this arguably shouldn't have happened, but despite it having done so the remedy seems straightforward - just repaint it like you would a painted wall. I think that is really one of the beauties of PU liquid coatings - very easy to repair and renew (indeed the warranty gets extended by 5 years every time you recoat it). The other benefit is that it can be used with zero falls due to there being no directional laps to worry about (it is actually used in full immersion situations eg swimming pools).

Meanwhile in @pocster's basement...

Council? I thought the police dealt with missing persons?

5 here soon!

As most of you (expletive deleted) wits are in tier 4 you can just sit inside and watch a free man work ?

The only person that sleeps better than kenny is me. 8 hours minimum for that boy, last night he had a cool 14 without a peep. But as for the sealants, i have not used that one, consideri g the brand i would assume id does as described, I have used this stuff reccomended by my tiler on my concrete worktop, travertine floor tiles and patio . Came up almost invisible/matt.

Eyyyyyyy-uppppp!?! Where the piss-stain coloured grout gone? ?. Ive just uploaded them pics to me “How ( not ) to” YT channel. MUCH better. ???

Can only help a bit, I have norrsken and really like them, went to look at rational and cannot understand why so many people buy them.

That is going to be a complicated extension, incorporating support for bedroom 5 that sits on the existing side wall of the garage. The planners may not like it extending further forward. If it's a recent development you may need covenant permission that might not be forthcoming. You will need to join it to the neighbours wall with their permission, or alternatively build your own wall very close to theirs with all the complications that entails.

Must agree again ! Grey grout better than wee yellow

And the grout looks really smart.

I used the fleece membrane, just like glass fibre mat really, you get a thickening product that you mix in to do the upstands, it removes the self levelling properties exactly the same process as grp but without mixing in the catalyst.

I would be looking at something else rather than grp, it’s very moisture sensitive when installing, if you will be looking at doing this in the next few months. I would look for somebody that does the new single component modified polymers, I’ve just done my flat roof in a product called DESMOPOL i did it on a damp day and it rained lightly 3 hours after I had finished, very happy with it, but it has only been on a week.

Go the stored DHW route, electric showers are pretty crap really. Even a 10 kW shower is not that powerful.

I've said it a few times on here, I have a thermostatic mixer on the supply to my toilet, (look for a tmv2 or tmv3 ) it's set to around 30c, this is to draw hot water through the system so the hot basin tap responds quicker when washing hands, as a by-product it does eliminate condensation on the cistern at the same time

You can play with this calculator. I find it tremendous fun, but then again that's just me. https://www.ubakus.com/en/r-value-calculator/? I knocked up @Russell griffiths and @ProDave roofs. Have a look at the Heat Protection page. Its shows much greater heat swings with the lower density insulation of PIR that with denser woodfiber. I'd be interested to know is this a problem in reality? Both have similar U values so should preform well in winter. prodave_roof.pdf Russel_G_roof.pdf

Exactly this. Whenever I tell people I have a home automation system installed, they immediately assume I get my phone out every time I want to do anything. Absolutely not - that would be a massive pain. The only time the app comes out at the moment is when the family sits down to watch the TV and I want to turn the living room lights to "TV watching mode" and turn off all the other lights in the house. That's done via a single button on the app. And the only reason that's still app-only is that I haven't bothered wiring up one of the switches in the living room so that something like a long press achieves the same result. I haven't done much in the way of actual automation. It's more things like: - an "all upstairs lights off" switch at the bottom of the stairs - an "all downstairs lights off" switch in the middle of the landing upstairs - an "all lights off" function: when you double-click either of our bedside light switches, it turns off all lights in the house. Single-clicking the same switch just toggles the adjacent bedside light. The latter is my favourite function by far. I expect it to eventually also do things like closing the front gates (once we've installed them), checking the garage door is closed, changing the function of the external movement detectors, etc. I don't have any pics of my Loxone install and it's a bit of a faff getting the cover off to take them. However, we had the same issue - three spare pairs for almost every CAT6 run, and LOTS of CAT6 cables, all coming into the same place. In the end, we stripped off the outer insulation (we didn't use screened) and ran only those cores that would be used into the cabinet. To allow us to run the data pairs without the outer insulation, we were ultra-cautious to completely physically separate mains power from the data pairs. In cases where this wasn't possible, we sleeved the data pairs. We carefully rolled up all the spare cores and housed them (carefully labelled!) in a plastic box that abuts the cabinet. It can take a while to find a particular core if you want to add it to the system, but once you do so, it's a relatively easy matter to thread it through to the relevant Loxone input. It looks like you're using the Tree system. It certainly makes for a neater install - we have several times the number of CAT6 cables arriving at the cabinet compared to your setup.

Finished.... Didn't make the Christmas deadline or do it without some help so I can't take all the credit. It wasn't the cuts that got me but the grouting. I nearly walked off my own site vowing never to return during that job!

. http://planninglawblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/permitted-development-for-outbuildings.html

Google found.. https://kingwest.co.uk/guide-to-converting-outbuildings-into-living-spaces/

LPA’s would consider whether or not proposals are considered to be inappropriate development within the Green Belt. The proposals would of course have to be reviewed against Planning policy and LPA’s do have different rules and regulations relating to the GB. The shower room is interesting as some LPA’s take a different and stricter view. I’m also quite sure they’re not actually allowed via PD but would need to check that. From a BR point of view, they would not be that concerned about the provision of an annexe as they’re just there to make sure the habitable space is BR compliant. There could be issues should Building Control speak to Planning, especially if you were going down the PD route. I’ve had experience with one LPA that said absolutely no to an annexe, which was in that case an extension to the main dwelling. Their argument was that it ‘could’ be turned into and used as a self contained unit and they couldn’t control it as such. I begged to differ but they wouldn’t budge so we ended up withdrawing the application. Another situation I came across with a different LPA granted approval for an annexe but asked the applicant to agree and enter into a legal agreement. This specifically stated the annexe can never be used, let or sold as an independent self contained unit. I think it does boil down to the actual LPA.

Yes, I admit the way that Jay held my enquiry was very reassuring, and refreshingly straightforward. Also, their company values resonated very well with me, and the way I run my businesses. I will try to provide a brief summary of my experiences so far in a new thread later, as I feel it could help many in their early evaluations. Bart

Some of us are here for life... ?

Also if you are going to use an angle grinder, dont use a normal diamond blade, use a tile (porcelain) blade.

@Ferdinand The phase change freezer was essentially the answer to "How do I eat steak followed by ice cream in the middle of the Atlantic, while transiting in a 34" wooden yacht?". My father on law was a very clever chap who had the knack of seeing the very simple and obvious solution to a problem that everyone else had missed. When I tell you how it worked, it will be so simple and obvious that it won't seem impressive. It would be fair to say a sizable number of his ideas have been incorporated into my house design. It's a real shame he never got to see the house other than in drawings. The problem with sailing is getting power for use in "hotel services" as the RN call it. It was even worse in the early 90s when solar panels were expensive and pretty awful things. So you're limited to power sources like running an engine, towing an altenator etc to charge batteries (again, in the early 90s these weren't anything like we have now), so efficiency is key for long range sailing. He built a massively insulated top opening box with the best volume to surface area he could fit in the space, and pieced together a reverse carnot cycle freezer using parts such as an airconditioning compressor - because taking mechanical power from the engine was more efficient than driving an inverter. To minimise engine run time, he used a pair of aluminium plates with a "bag" filled with strong brine. The freezer oviously froze this in the cooling cycle, taking the box temperature to -20c or so, and it acted as a cold store for many days at a time provided the box wasn't opened much (and there's plenty of spare PCM sloshing around should the bag leak...). Thus engine runtime was minimised and used relatively efficiently (5 to 10 minutes every 3 days), there was no battery load imposed and he and the crew (a younger SWMBO) ate well. Simple solutions tend to work well.

I think it is too high a price. In my opinion the high-street custom fit are at least 50% too high - so when they have their "half-price sale" they can still make a profit. I bought an IKEA flat-pack for about £1,000 (including all internal fittings, drawers, shoe-racks, jewellery trays etc) and paid my carpenter to hack them to fit under the sloping ceilings. I think it cost approx £2,000 in total. The only limitation with IKEA is that they have standard widths of carcass, so if your room dimensions do not conform you could end up with wasted space. Similar number of wardrobes to your schematic.

Another leak???

Ha, you’ve not been there, even squatters would turn their nose up at his dungeon.

Oi ! PM me ! . I’ve got everything you need girls , drugs , walk on glazing .......

@pocster, (I think I have a buyer fir you, dont forget my 10% ?)

How they deal with this is very variable between council areas. I have had several visits and each time they have decided it is not complete enough to value. You will have to let them visit and see what they say. Telling them to do one is not an option.

I would prefer plasterboard. While your boy is skimming it he could go over the ceiling.

Yeah its mostly dangerous stuff but its the only list I can find. So far sausages are the only thing I've seen we can't export to the EU. I recon it in retaliation for.. https://youtu.be/OzeDZtx3wUw?t=90

Agreed. Much better than that yellow stuff! ?

Or crack a few more and go for a crazed effect? ?

I wonder where you could buy some glazing for a flat roof, perhaps you could even walk on it ?

I assume you are bequeathing all this to a non favoured child or somebody you don't like? ?

What vehicle are you wanting to park in there?

I have been playing in AutoCAD:

Ffs ! Sort the ufh in the bathroom . Poor SWMBO after her shower stood there shivering ( I’ll put the binoculars away now ) ?

They were stacked vertically on a pallet just unbelievable. What size spacers you use