willbish

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About willbish

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  1. It's what I've got and no issues raised yet. I am wondering whether it is correct/acceptable to push a single socket pipe down on to the stub? Feels like using the pipe in this orientation is wrong...
  2. The porch window pictured above, as an example, was £785
  3. Hi Dan, This thread has a few pointers and pictures of how not to do it
  4. Possibly time to renegotiate the purchase price. Do you have a copy of the valuation you can use as 'evidence'?
  5. End2020 Code for euro carparts just got me 40% off a new battery 👍🏼
  6. I should say the wall feels bomber solid
  7. Hi @nod any tricks on how I can avoid this happening? It doesn't look pretty but maybe I shouldn't be worried and just carry on. Using self tap dry wall screws. Screwing out and back in again doesn't help. Niether does a pilot hole. VID_20210106_151039~2.mp4
  8. Where's the MVHR ducting going? I thought that would require the false ceiling. Then you've got the voids for the cables. What's your plan for wall finish on the precast concrete? A service cavity could be easier than chasing.
  9. I'm not familiar with the Kore system, are the boards interlocking? There's potential for a bit of seepage with gaps and a wet pump mix. A thin DPM would prevent this but it's extra time and cost especially if you start getting the internal corners cut and taped nicely. I'd question the usefulness of filing and emptying the UFH pipes, particularly if you haven't got a mains water connection. That sounds like hassle. There's always a chance if you pump out prior to pouring, potentially damage could happen between then and pour day. It's a risk but very minimal. I'd trust the pipe, you are buying from a reputable company, it won't be full of holes!
  10. I took a different approach 1a Certainly easier if you csn staple to the EPS. I cable tied to the top of the mesh. Are you putting a thin layer of DPC to stop any concrete seepage between the EPS joins? 1b No I don't think it matters at all. Over time, the slab will be heated to a uniform temp regardless of the position of the pipes. I imagine some vertical variation in slab temp will occur when cooling down. It could be advantageous to have the pipes lower down, Im not sure. 2 I capped the ends 3 I didn't test prior to pour. Pex-Al-Pex is surprisingly rigid. I think the only conceivable way of a puncture is sabotage. I was concerned with having people walk on the pipe during concrete placement, but it didn't flatten them. If you do decide to pressure up the pipes, are you going to have someone watching the gauge during concrete placement? What are you going to do if mid-pour you notice the pressure has dropped? 4 Leave them empty, forget about them 5 6 If cable tying, no need to snip the ends off as well. Just rotate the tie as you are pulling tight and have the excess pointing down. Cable tying is certainly time consuming but it definitely works.
  11. That would be a neat and quick solution @nod has just proposed. In my amateur way I would have cut timber noggins in between the ceiling joists. Yes, yes and yes. Spacer clip SC1
  12. I've been on a metal stud learning curve the last week. So far so good, only the single one inch laceration to my finger to mention. But it sure flies up quick once you get used to it I chose a mixture of wall make up. Between bedrooms and corridors I've used 72mm track with 60mm I studs staggered. For cupboard, wardrobes and areas where sound transmission is not so critical I went for 52mm track with 50mm C studs. 9mm ply then PB The British Gypsum white book is really useful for selecting the components, then when purchasing switched to Tradeline brand as significantly cheaper. Chatting with a plasterer today and he's saying I really should be using noggins, even though White book says not necessary. I mentioned that Im using 15mm soundbloc board and he said even more reason to nog, anyone know why this might be? So that got me thinking about chucking some in there just to be sure. But with the staggered studs this is not going to be possible. Is the flat plate really going to make much difference? I cant see how thin plate (0.3mm thick i think) is going to make any difference. All my boards are vertical, just under 2.4m ceilings, perhaps that makes a difference.
  13. @NickK Walls will be rendered, in a TS06 from the Fassa range https://www.fassabortolo.it/it/365-a-year-of-colors?line=Tuscany