willbish

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About willbish

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  1. Nice one thanks @nod Do you notice any difference in rigidity with say staggered I studs at 300 centres compared to C studs not staggered at 600. Neither are fixed top at bottom so I'm guessing no/not a lot of difference
  2. Not that much to read on the forum regarding metal stud walling and the different configurations. Ive got 26 running metres of partition walling to put up, most at 2.4m high Having had a good gander at the 'White Book' Im drawn to a couple of options Either I studs staggered with 1 sheet of soundbloc each side, 50mm acoustic roll. 102mm depth overall Shown here, pic 1: Or C studs with double sheets of standard board, 50mm acoustic roll. 100mm deep. Closely pictured as number 2: I haven't yet done any cost comparison with timber yet, any good suppliers to approach? I'll give my local builders merchants a buzz tomorrow but I'm not confident they'll be at all competitive or even know what Im on about.. @Dreadnaught was going down this route, how far did you get?
  3. Majority of slabs 900x600 so should fly down.... 😀 only 86m2 to do. Will probably take me til Christmas
  4. Farmhouse flags have said no issues with a mortar bed, but then backtracked when UFH is mentioned As.. and I think Im good to carry on with plan A
  5. True that. Adding UFH to the mix though and I begin to doubt myself Nope, trying to sell me flexible adhesive.
  6. A screed to bring the level up has been considered but I thought it would be a bit thin and risk of cracking plus it adds another layer of work/labour @PeterW You haven't suggested flexible adhesive on top of the screed, so it's not really necessary in this case?
  7. On top of my insulated raft slab I had intended to lay flagstones reclaimed from the old property and have left 60mm for these. Not having enough intact flags and tired of reclamation yard Del boy's I've decided to do the whole lot with concrete imitation flagstones. These are 20mm thick and I was thinking to lay them on a stone dust mortar 40mm thick to bring it up to the required height. With the backs coated in an SBR slurry Now with low temp, wet UFH in the slab is this going to be an issue?
  8. If your steel beam is level and your padstone is slightly on the pi$$ you aren't going to be able to pour a runny grout mix up hill. Wedge a few steel shims in there
  9. Yeh I agree. The big advantage of them is avoiding the messing around involved with feeding pipe through the webs of posi joists where you can't notch them out. A job I've not completed yet but fills me with dread every time i think of it!
  10. I used second hand site hoardings, painted sheets of OSB, from a fencing supplier as a temporary deck through the winter. No need for DPM to protect the joists, they were unaffected. Sheets were £6 a pop and can we sold on
  11. No timescale to collect. Judging by the speed of communication it could well have been Christmas. I'm going to take the £55, and yep get some larger hinges. With regards the lock, no idea yet, filler and then router? I just need to get the frame fitted tomorrow for the renderer to start. Will sort the door another day
  12. Unable to reach a reasonable solution to this issue, I am going to post the last correspondence from Doordeals Ltd below. After receiving the below email, I asked Doordeals Ltd if they were happy for me to post their email on a public forum. 48hrs later, I assume their lack of response indicates they couldn't care less. Hi Mr After looking into this further we deem the issue to be minimal and easily fixable. . We don't see any issue with the hinges and the lock cut can be repaired easily, this is due to the specification of the doorset being altered. We have previously offered to collect and repair the door which we would do as and when passing and then redeliver. This would have a lead time involved. If the doorset has been worked on or attempted to be hung we would not offer this option as the door would be classed as accepted. Alternatively we would offer the good will gesture payment as previously stipulated by my colleague Tim for £55.45 to repair the door on site. These are the only options I would offer. alternatively we would happily see you in court. Regards Their offer to collect and repair the door seems reasonable and it is. Although they are hiding behind the fact I explained in my initial complaint that I was pressed for time and looking for a speedy response. They asked if I would like a replacement and I agreed. It took 6 days to establish that they don't have anything remotely similar in stock. A company who cared could have had the door collected, repaired and possibly on its way back to me by day 6. This is clearly a company that doesn't care about quality or customer service. Avoid
  13. I've gone for the drill through after approach. Hasn't been too much bother. 20mm plastic conduit inserted and 100mm square section of EPS removed on the inside to be able to form airtight seal between hole and conduit
  14. Won't the ceiling void be warmed from the ground floor anyway? In a low energy house all areas near enough same temperature and UFH flow temps low. I'll shortly be considering this too. I am going to install 4 loops of UFH upstairs despite not really needing any heating upstairs. Aluminium spreaders installed from below. You've got me thinking now, services or sound insulation next...
  15. I used Logix, think the block is called XRV6-8, the thickest block they do. As I understand for Nudura if you want to increase the U value they use a standard block with a larger concrete void, you then push EPS inserts in which reduces the concrete to a normal ~6 inch. Advantage of that is the plastic webs are close to outer face so good for fixings. Disadvantage is it's extra work pushing the inserts in. One self builder I visited mentioned it was a right pain and slowing him down a lot.