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About willbish

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  1. Are the strip footings shown on the drawings? And do you have a build warranty to satisfy? Worth considering that the BCO you are dealing with might change throughout the build and the next BCO may have a different opinion which could cause a headache if you don't follow the SE design.
  2. I had a huge amount of rebar in my 90m2 raft. Two layers of A393 mesh, perimeter cages and lateral cages criss crossing the middle. Steel cost £2.2k Rebar for the ICF house on top was only used above window and door openings. £200 Amount of rebar varies depending on brand of ICF I believe.
  3. Got a few other 'jobs' while you're at it
  4. Thanks for your replies. The stone wall on the boundary is to be taken down and rebuilt so when this happens I'll put a root barrier under the footing. It's a shame he's planted them now because it's going make rebuilding the wall more difficult when the time comes.
  5. Should I be concerned about the 5ft trees my neighbour has planted just the other side of my boundary? He's planted a row of mixed Hawthorne varieties the closest being 5.0m away from my raft. The ground condition is pretty poor here, the raft is 300mm thick throughout with significant reinforcement. I'm reluctant to rock the apple cart with the neighbour; we have a tolerable relationship! Im also reluctant to start asking questions of the raft designer. NHBC guidance seems to make reference to existing trees when designing rafts but doesn't mention or recommend minimum safe distances for new planting.
  6. My understanding perforated pipe is used for collecting water a la french drain stylee, where it is then sent to a soakaway. Although it is used in leach fields to distribute waste water post septic tank/treatment plant but I dont think this is what you are building
  7. This post might have what you are looking for
  8. Agree with @Sensus on your options but I wouldn't consider you a fool if you proceeded to ignore the Heritage Officer without a planning consultant onboard. If you are required to take further action by the LPA, that would be the sensible time to engage a consultant and not before in my opinion.
  9. Hi @AdamSee Thanks for sharing your experience. I have a quote, well two now, second is just for the board only. I think if I'm going to use it, I will go for a half and half approach. Using normal P5 chipboard around the perimeter and then TorBoard everywhere else. This might reduce the cost enough to make the extra expense justifiable and will avoid passing the pipe under the joists with the spreader plate method.
  10. Thanks for the explanation. I dont have the height to build up off the joists unfortunately, (can swallow 6mm for ply) so no option other than to take the pipe under the joists.
  11. Pretty much although it has 'prebonded heat diffusers'. I'm awaiting a sample. But I'm guessing very thin aluminium tape stuck on top. Fortunately I'm not that concerned as my heat demand is low. Other brands of routed chipboard recommend aluminium spreaders are pushed into the board before the pipe. I could see that turning into a massive task.. Joists are already in unfortunately. What was your method when laying the pipe and having to go under the joists instead of notching them? I'm imagining this to be an awkward job that involves pulling the required length of pipe off the decoiler for each loop. Then feeding the snake through the joists being careful not to snag on the metal webs. I've considered attacking the job from underneath, fixing pipe and aluminium spreaders to the underside of the P5, that'll encounter the same issue but maybe more suitable if working single handed.
  12. There’s very few mentions on the forum of TorBoard or any other chipboard grooved to accept UFH pipe. I’m trying to decide if paying extra for TorBoard is worth the minimized installation hassle when compared to using aluminum spreader plates. Lots of you seem to have used aluminum spreader plates but I’m imagining a difficult job pulling pipe through posi-joists as they can’t be notched. Is there an easy method? This is how the pricing looks 22mm P5 chipboard (£7/m2) and aluminum spreader plates (£14/m2) Vs Torboard (£24.8/m2) plus 6mm ply on top at £4/m2. I’m assuming pipe, fixings and everything else balances out. My heating demand is very low, upstairs UFH isn’t really a necessity but I would prefer a fitted system rather than having to plug in electric heaters on the coldest of days. Because of the low demand I’m also considering a ‘half arsed’ job, where I make sure a smallish area of each room is covered with spreader plates and pipe. A similar style could also be achieved with TorBoard but I would then still need to cover the entire floor with 6mm ply. Any thoughts always appreciated.
  13. Let us know how you get on, I'd be interested to see
  14. I'm not familiar with the compressive limits of PIR but here is XPS with pedestals on top without a plywood layer. This detail may also be of use, which I am broadly following.
  15. Time to move on to the next job I reckon. Sounds like you've got it well covered