MAB

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  1. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best 'Anti-Snap Euro cylinder door locks' to replace the standard ones which it seems are vulnerable to being snapped off? (See videos below)
  2. I have a low profile Walk-in shower tray 1700 x 800 plus glass panel with a 600 wide opening. Water supply comes from a Stuart Turner 2-Bar power shower pump, 200mm diameter shower head and a further hand held shower on the wall. It is not a wet room but so far I have not needed to fit an extra hinged glass flap to the end of the glass screen to retain any splash from there...although it does of course depend to some degree on the care of the person showering, or when using the hand held shower to clean the tray. The problem is sometimes excess water can travel along the tray next to the back tiled wall then around the corner of the end tiled wall and end up dripping off the walk-in tray drying area onto the ensuite floor. The only solution appears to be a Threshold seal fitted on the shower tray entry area, this one in link below seems to be widely available locally and online from Uniblade.......any thoughts welcome? "The Uniblade Chameleon® wet room seal is an ideal solution for situations in wet rooms or shower areas where the flow of water runs out of the floor area it is not intended to. The Chameleon® wet room seal is made from a soft translucent (also grey or white) rubber that simply silicones to the required position on the floor area - tiled or vinyl. It offers an indiscrete barrier to stop the water escaping the shower area." https://www.uniblade.co.uk/chameleon.php
  3. Clear CT1 worked well for glass panel onto a walk in shower tray for me as described by Nick in the link above.
  4. I think by the 'map of sewers' it means the main council/water company or any shared drains/sewers which may cross your property. Your own properties drain runs and manholes can usually be moved or redirected by your builder to suit any proposed extension as long as no one else is affected. The OS location map can often be 'cribed' for free if one of your near neighbours has had an extension done and their plans are on the local council website online......but don't tell anyone! Also useful to look at the councils online plans for other extensions nearby for ideas and also see what drawing details are required. Unfortunately Building Reg drawings are not usually available online on Council websites but some planning drawings do include many of the Building reg detail notes required.
  5. The Planning drawings don't have to be done in CAD although most are these days, I still see plenty of 'professional' planning drawings that are not much neater or detailed than your sketch but seem to get the job done! If you are going to use Building reg drawings then the plans will need to be more detailed but much of it can be covered by typed standard notes. However with such a small extension you could go ahead under a Building Notice without any formal plans:- https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200137/how_to_get_approval/78/pre-site_approval/3
  6. A friend of mine had a two story extension built on the back of his detached 1930's house back in 2006. The ground is South London/Surrey clay. The house rear garden backs onto a golf course with 2 large mature oak trees belonging to the Golf club and dense hedge/shrubs forming the border between his back garden and the golf course. The house extension was built with 2m deep foundations and approved by Building Control but has recently had subsidence cracks appearing which have got worse with this years long hot summer. Oak roots have been found in samples near the foundations and the house owners insurance company are going through a process of monitoring and investigation. My friend is in his 70's and was hoping to downsize house soon but is now worried this could be a long and protracted process making it impossible for him to sell and with much upheaval to come in order to fix the problem. The golf course have offered to reduce the canopy of the trees but want to keep them in place and some say that removing the trees could possibly create a clay heave problem instead. i would be interested to hear any opinions or possible solutions on this problem or any similar experiences and what might be the various possible solutions/outcomes and the best way for my friend to proceed or where he could best get some independent expert advice? (I will try to get some accurate height and distances of the oak trees from his house and/or photos in the next few days).
  7. Thanks for all the helpful replies, I am now thinking of going for this L-Shape Unit which also looks to have a larger cistern access panel above the back to wall toilet:- https://www.bathrooms.com/bathroom-furniture/combination-vanity-units/mydesign-white-1100-extra-depth-l-shaped-combination-unit-with-sink-and-cistern-rh There seems to be a very wide selection of makes, types and prices for the concealed cisterns eg: 2 pages worth below.....any recommendations or things to avoid when choosing? (I would like front access for most maintenance because of the one piece worktop/basin and bottom inlet for water supply). https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/Bathrooms/Bathrooms/Cisterns/Product/576.htm
  8. If I was to fit one of these compact L-shaped Bathroom cabinet units (see links below) which are designed to use a back to wall style pan how easy is it to service/repair/replace the cistern fill and flush valves, etc? The style I like has a one piece L-shaped basin which also fits over the top of the cistern. It would be a pain to have to remove the basin/worktop taps and waste just to access the concealed cistern in the future. So is there a concealed cistern that fits this type of unit but can be serviced by removing the cabinets front panel and push button and that is a good make or recommended by plumbers? http://www.elationbathrooms.co.uk/cat/l-shape https://www.diy.com/departments/cooke-lewis-ardesio-gloss-white-lh-vanity-toilet-pack/1056515_BQ.prd If not I think I will go with a conventional stand-alone WC and a separate basin/cabinet unit alongside.
  9. I did not fill them with grout yet as I have read and heard conflicting advice on searches as to whether the corner tile to tile interface should be grout or a flexible sealant (and if sealant you should grout tiles first leave corners ungrouted for the sealant). eg. Tilers Forum:- https://www.tilersforums.co.uk/threads/silicone-internal-corners.33500/ The back wall of the shower is the external solid brick wall of the original 1930's house, coming off this, one of the shower corners is the new extension external celcon blockwork side wall, the other shower corner is formed by an internal stud wall so I suppose there could be some relative movement over time between the different wall constructions. (As an example a kitchen tiler grouted my worktop splash back tiles some time back but included the worktop to tile interface to save time as he could not get a suitable cream colour sealant on the day........within a year the grout line between tiles and worktop was breaking away and had to be dug out and replaced with the correct colour flexible sealant.)
  10. Some pics, the corner gaps where the tiles meet at 90 degrees vary from approx 2-4 mm The tile trims are around the tiled recess/pocket which used to be a small window. I will use clear CT1 under the glass side panel as you have often advised but what about the tiles to shower tray joint, the gap from tray to tiles is very small so I could probably get away with a bead of clear CT1?
  11. No not used those plastic strips anywhere.......the joints I mentioned are where the tiles meet at 90 degrees leaving a small gap in the vertical corners for grout or sealant.
  12. I have grouted the wall tiles in my new walk in ensuite shower at last and now need to seal the two internal corners where the tiles meet. I believe these corner wall joints should not be grouted or they will crack. The tiles are fixed on Hardi-backer cement board which was sealed in the corners (before tiling) with white Sikaflex EBT and the shower tray was also sealed to the tile backer board (before tiling) with Sikaflex creating an upstand as recommended in other helpful Build Hub posts. My question is what sealant (or sealants) should i use in the finished tiled shower internal corners, the bottom tiles to shower tray corner, the ceiling to tiles corners and the tiles where edges meet metal tile trims? (the grout i have used is white) Sikaflex EBT (white)? CT1? (I have read on here white CT1 changes colour over time?) or Dow Corning 785 Sanitary Silicone sealant? (white) I am no expert at applying sealant....so should I apply it between masking tape, if so how do I prevent a raised edge forming by tape edges and should the tape be removed immediately or after sealant has cured? Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
  13. The 15 Year Shed felt works well for me.......the standard felt which comes with most sheds tears easily and only lasts around 5 years.
  14. MAB

    Bifolds

    I fitted two sets of aluminium folding doors a couple of years ago, supplied by 'The Folding Sliding Door Company' using their installation instructions and video below:- Installation Instructions The first set took me most of a day to fit but the second set took about half a day.......
  15. I have a 15 year old Whirlpool USA Fridge /Freezer.......water/ice dispenser is hardly ever used, some large very expensive parts, digital display and various pcb's have been replaced over recent years but have been covered by an annual repair plan for parts and labour since the warranty ran out!