Construction Channel

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Construction Channel last won the day on December 11 2019

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About Construction Channel

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  • Birthday 20/05/1987

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  1. I would remove the beads, measure the glass, put the top and bottom beads back in, then wait for the replacement, only 2 beads will hold it fine and it's a lot easier to get them out afterwards. The first bead is always the hardest.
  2. Don't worry about the rest of the video but I remove the beads at about 2 mins and put them back in towards the end Hth
  3. Also I don't think you can mix metric and imperial without converters, 22mm pipe would be the metric version of a 3/4 pipe. (I assume the ID would be close to 19mm ish), 15mm would be 1/2inch and so on. At least that's my understanding of it. One thing I learnt doing mine was the merchant will always tell you the simple fitting you want isn't made by anyone and you will need to use between 2 and 7 alternative fittings to achieve the simple task. But as long as you can find out what to search for someone on the Internet will sell the simple fitting you need
  4. 28mm x 1" Male Iron Straight Compression WRAS Approved Heavy Pattern Embrass I had to buy a few for my system, I think the inch part is referring to the thread size but I really don't know, I just bought what the plumber told me to
  5. I hand formed my screed as well. It's really not hard because screed is so stiff. Just messed about with a level and a float. You'll be amazed what a decent Tiler can get over
  6. Everbuild EVBSILSPRAY All Purpose Silicone Spray 400ml I used this. I found out the hard way not to rush taking the mould off.
  7. The window sits on the cill so it's not connected as such. Because I wanted my windows as far back as possible the cill needed to bridge my cavity. The white board (orange arrow) was some offcuts of plastic soffit, it is just a formwork to hold the concrete until it went off but I chose that as it was waterproof and will never rot, black tape was just duct tape to seal all the edges. One bit you may not be able to see is I fitted some draught excluder on the back of the mould to stop the muck running down the wall (blue arrow) also in the bottom of the mould I tacked some cable to create a drip. Other than that they were as simple as they look. Hold the mould in the right place with clamps, fill them with your choice of sand/cement, vibrate them a Lot. Then remove once it's gone off.
  8. Why not dig even more of the eps out and replace it with celotex? Or raise the floor in the bathroom a bit. (you could lose that with a ramped threshold depending how much you need)
  9. Can't is a strong word. I'm sure there will be a way round it but it's not standard practice to render below dpc as it bridges it. Dpc is usually set 2 courses (150mm) above ground level so that rain splash / snow won't reach above the dpc. This can sometimes be overcome with a French drain (100mm wide gravel channel around the building) but all these things will come down to what the BCO will accept.
  10. Generally if we're going to render we build with fibolite blocks (lightweight aggregate), but we would also put 3 courses of bricks below dpc on the external skin (not always engineering, depends what the architect asks for). This is just for looks though as render will generally stop at the dpc height and there will be 2 courses showing before ground level. We also avoid aerated blocks (celcon) as they have a bad reputation for cracks but they may have improved since they got that reputation Hth
  11. That part has always baffled me. As a self builder surely you will be much better going online. Less overhead, actual prices shown, usually minimal delivery fees.... The standard British builders merchant will only give you an noticeable discount (slightly below online prices) if you look like it will be a) a repeat purchase b) you have a very big order (multiple houses)
  12. 😊 I know about as much as you about this stuff but I was trying to ask the inevitable questions. Next questions. What is your planned floor finish? (tiles, vinyl etc) will effect tile in traps... Do you have a link to the trap you had planned to use? Someone will want to look over the technical specs for you. Would the "tray" you mentioned be wheelchair accessible? Do you already have a boss fitted to the stack dictating a height/fall or will you install that after?
  13. Fwiw the Tiler I used. (and have known and trusted for a long time) did the floor first. Also +1 to plenty of tanking. luckily we had a bunch of the liquid left over from work but I had to buy the tape from here. Lots cheaper than finding a leak Sealing tape D11, 10-50 Lfm,...
  14. Estimated delivery is the 2nd I'm afraid.