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ragg987 last won the day on June 7

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About ragg987

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  1. Important updates to BuildHub

    Nice one. The new site looks "cleaner" on both desktop and mobile devices. Also seems faster on my mobile.
  2. Glue Down Engineered Oak

    My builder had these in his toolkit. It was a steel plate scraper about 8 or 10" wide on a long handle. Bit like a broom. And used just like a broom, push out to scrape the laitance off. Our screed company told me to scrape off within a week or two both to aid drying as well as to make it easier. They said it would be harder to scrape off of left on.
  3. Glue Down Engineered Oak

    I used Sikabond 54 over a liquid screed floor. We removed the laitance by scraping it off with a blade. I spoke to Sika technical and they advised that I need not apply anything on the dry floor provided we had removed the laitance and were on clean and dry screed. www.flooringvillage.co.uk gave me a great price based on the quantity I needed (250m2 worth). Transition oak to tile: we used a simple steel at the transition. Works beautifully, very clean and elegant. I cannot find the name, but is an inverted T with floor tile on one side and wooden on the other, all you see is a thin steel line at the transition.
  4. This is likely to be limited to wi-fi that the phone provider has access to. With BT every wi-fi BT router has the potential to be connected to by a BT broadband provider - it requires an App on your phone which will intercept the wi-fi network and recognise your BT credentials. Vodafone have the same arrangement, I don't know about the others. This is only useful if you are in a built-up area - out in the sticks there is no wi-fi. Dongles also use a SIM card, so if you have a 'phone and use that as a mobile hotspot it is essentially the same. If your mobile package has a generous data allowance use that. One thing to watch out for, what are you connecting to the mobile hotspot? if it is a Windows PC, then you can be sure that will gobble up your data allowance rapidly even when you are not browsing. You can reduce this by setting Windows to treat the hotspot as a "Metered Connection" - this will reduce background services from connecting to the internet.
  5. Structural warranty

    I went with self-build zone, £2,300 for 330m2 ICF basement and timberframe above ground. 600k build cost. They were the cheapest I could find. So yes, your figures do seem mental.
  6. This is not an easy post to write.....

    Sorry to hear the news, Ian. In case this helps, our build mortgage process was the most stressful part of our build. We had it all agreed, but once the formal application went in all sorts of obstacles started to be presented even though all the aspects had been discussed and agreed on the initial query. I owed a builder over £100k and was unable to pay it all until the mortgage came through. After over 10 weeks of this and with no end in sight (process was supposed to take 6 weeks) I rang the BS and asked to speak to the CEO. It went to his voicemail and he (unexpectedly) called me back later in the day. Funds were released within three working days, so all credit to him for seeing it through. We turned the corner after this and all later issues to build completion were minor in comparision. I subsequently complained to the Financial Ombudsman who disagreed with a lot I said but directed the BS to pay me a few hundred pounds for messing me around. Another piece to the funding - we tried to stick it out in our current house during the build as we thought it would be upsetting to move us and the kids into rented temporarily and then into the completed house. In the end we had to sell and rent for 6 months - this was a very good move as it immediately released a pot of money that would see us to the end of the build without restriction. The inconvenience of the temporary rental was trivial. Funny how you can get fixated on an idea but in the end it is not important. As someone said earlier - cash is king.
  7. I suspect your energy is going towards drying out the house, it has been exposed to the elements for a while prior. Think of all the surfaces and materials that could have soaked up moisture. Not to mention plaster, paint and other finishes. When we first moved in we used up a lot of energy, it seemed to take a couple of months or more to stabilise.
  8. Fingers crossed!

    Very nice. If you have not already, suggest you use the 8 weeks to talk to neighbours and other interested parties like the parish council. Communication is key in heading off objections. Of course, planners are supposed to use objective criteria to assess the plan, but they are only human...
  9. Greentrees

    Welcome, seems in interesting project. Lots of knowledgable AND helpful people here - you are in good hands. Gave me the support and confidence to complete my new build.
  10. Moving off a self build mortgage

    Regarding BC sign off, they were OK that some internal and external build was incomplete, I discussed prior to final inspection. Also, VAT on materials after this date was refunded no problem, though bear in mind you have 3 months to submit the claim.
  11. Moving off a self build mortgage

    I did this in January, we went with Melton who had also provided the build mortgage and avoided all redemption and new mortgage fees, which represents quite a big saving. The new mortgage was not the cheapest in the market, but the rate difference would have required 3 years to pay back the fees. I decided to take the variable rate and took on the risk that the base rate remains low for the near term. Fixed rate was higher. BC sign off was a prerequisite, same for moving off build insurance to standard insurance.
  12. Vinyl, linoleum what to choose?

    We looked at Marmoleum as this seems to be the real deal (i.e. linseed based) rather than some of the cheaper and flimsy products claiming to be lino. It looks very durable and should be fine with wet cleaning. In the end the lack of a colour we liked meant we used Amtico in our bathrooms and plant room. I agree with the warmer underfoot comment. Tiles tend to be unpleasant in that respect.
  13. @JSHarris, you're a star, this is just the kind of practical info that I need. I guess I could do this on the external wall near my plantroom and run the cable behind the render carrier from roof level to give a nicer appearance, though I imagine getting the dangling cable from roof level to the hole at ground(ish) level might prove tricky. This has given me the confidence to proceed - awaiting quotes from the service provider before I decide. Those custom tools of your might come in handy - I will reach out if needed, really appreciate the offer.
  14. Having lived in our new house for 10 months, I am on the verge of chucking out my BT line for internet and switching to a village supplier who mounts a small dish at roof level that points to a central receiver. This is not a scenario I had catered for and have no ready-made solution to bring this cable into my house. The closest I have is a small duct into which I supply the aerial lead, though the inside of this duct is in our upstairs bathroom and sealed and boarded up. I would ideally install the wi-fi router centrally inside the building to give max coverage - this is on ground floor (as we have a basement) so quite a way away from aerial point. In a traditional build we could simply run the cable externally and drill a hole into the brick at ingress point. So, question is how can I proceed with providing this cable into my house without destroying the integrity of the MBC cellulose insulation fill plus the air-tightness we worked hard to achieve? Any sensible ideas welcome... Wall construction is (outside to inside) render, render mesh, render carrier, cavity, MBC external board (OSB?), cellulose, internal board, cavity, fermacell, plaster, paint.
  15. Online Calculators

    No it is not. IE11 is current and supported and is packaged in supported versions of Windows. It is still used by a significant portion of desktop users. I think this was the point that @recoveringacademic was trying to make in his "Maintenance" post?