ragg987

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ragg987 last won the day on June 7 2017

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About ragg987

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  • About Me
    Detached 330m2 house on 3 levels with separate garage, MBC timberframe, Integraspec ICF + Kryton waterproof concrete basement, Norrsken 3G glazing. Clay tiles and zinc roofing, STO render on carriers plus some timber cladding.

    Designed to Passiv standards and tested to 0.57 ACH @ 50Pa. Heating and DHW using 7kW ASHP. UFH to ground and basement only. Airflow MVHR with in-line electrical heater to first floor. PV 4kWp
  • Location
    Aylesbury

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  1. ragg987

    Pressure Washer Recommendations

    I second the Nilfisk, purchased a c130 from their outlet store for £80ish. It has variable pressure so can be used on cars at low pressure and patios at high.
  2. ragg987

    Next steps after planning

    My thoughts are that design should be done hand-in-hand with the construction technique - as each method will have it's own peculiarities or limitations and these should be factored into the thought process early. In our case we knew we wanted timberframe and basement using ICF / waterproof concrete. Our architect then designed and detailed in collaboration with the appropriate suppliers. I employed a PM from pre-planning through to watertight shell, then managed it myself from that point on. The package included QS, and they guided me to some cost optimisation opportunities, plus were able to provide key contacts e.g. basement supplier and contractor. PM me if interested.
  3. We installed a Bette shower tray flush to the floor. The installation kit creates a box and the screed poured outside that. Works well. You might need something solid over the polystyrene to support the frame.
  4. ragg987

    Anyone used an electric stair climber?

    Probably the one you need after hauling 150kg upstairs without the trolley. Never used one of these but have seen a Xerox copier carried on one many many years ago. Non-electric version with 3 wheels per side in a rotary frame / configuration, when you hit the stair the wheel assembly rotates to simulate a walking movement.
  5. Not sure I follow the logic. Solar gain is usually more of an issue in the shoulder months when the sun can be bright but low enough. During this period, a low energy house needs very little heat input, so ufh / slab will only be about 1 or 2C above room temperature. As the room warms from solar gain, the slab emits less and less energy. Once room temperature is above that of the slab then the heat is transferred into the slab. Delta T dictates this. In theory, a thicker slab will provide a better "cushion" so might be more beneficial.
  6. ragg987

    Roof Windows - Will they drive me mad?

    Our bedroom has a triple glazed Fakro roof window, directly above the bed. North facing. Yes you can hear heavy rain but not excessively noisy.
  7. ragg987

    people with clever socks required.

    Best of luck!
  8. ragg987

    people with clever socks required.

    Don't have the time to read it, but my story as input: We purchased an old bungalow on about 0.25 acres. Approx 90m2. We got approved for a replacement of 330m2. So far so good, alighned to your experience. However, before we purchased the developer who owned the bungalow attempted 3 times to get planning for 2 houses. He started with large houses and scaled downwards with each iteration, by his last attempt the 2 houses were smaller than our single dwelling. Planners insisted it was "over-development" and then aspects like over-bearing etc came into play. Our single dwelling probably has similar bearing but was not deemed an issue.
  9. ragg987

    Shower screen needed.

    Thanks for the plug @Simplysimon. I have also offered them on buildhub classifieds for free if collected - still clogging up space in my garage. @TheMitchells the wall channel we screwed into the wall and the rubber seal prevents the glass from rattling around in it while providing a water-seal. No need for Sika - getting the glass to be completely square to the wall as well as level on the floor is not likely to happen, so the channel and seal provide for 'latitude' when fitting. Also we found our shower tray settled a few mm after a few months so the glass was able to slide down the channel. On the bottom we left a gap of about 5mm and filled it with clear silicone. Works a treat and seals perfectly. Small, clear, wedges of some plastic were used to lift the glass as well as to level it.
  10. A number here have. Some have found overheating, I have not though the room tends to be a touch warmer (maybe 1-2 C) than the surrounding rooms. Our plant room also doubles as utility and is about 6m2. 300l DHW, 90l buffer, indoor ASHP unit, 3 circulation pumps, MVHR, electrical meters, UFH manifold, PV inverter, PV diverter, internet and router, washing machine. I have a MVHR extract in there as we also dry clothes on an indoor line. I have taken care with insulation - DHW tank was pre-insulated at above normal level, I took care of all pipes including junctions to the tank.
  11. ragg987

    Grand Designs Gravenhill - Budget vs Reality

    You calling me barmy? Exactly what I paid for our old bungalow. New build is valued at £100k + above the total cost of the bungalow, demolition, build. Now that is barmy, but no complaints from me 😀. I had done the maths before we demolished, a local estate agent have an estimated value of the plan, on paper should have about broken even.
  12. ragg987

    Timber cladding, recommendations

    We ended up with Canadian Western red Cedar, half lap, from vastern. Very helpful and good prices. Now nearly 3 years and is silvering nicely, though not completely even e.g. areas in shade are less silver. As I understand it, if you want to keep that red or brown colour you have to protect it immediately and then reapply every couple of years. Seems too much faff so we used timber in the raw. For a while I was hooked to the smell of the natural oils in the timber. Had to have a sniff when I walked past. Faded after a few months.
  13. ragg987

    Soundproofing 95mm bathroom stud wall

    All good stuff above, but do remember there are three modes of sound transmission and you need to tackle them all equally. AIR-TO-AIR TRANSMISSION - e.g. through holes and other apertures. This is usually the floor or ceiling junctions - seal these carefully. Also, think about the doors (usually the weakest point) and if you have MVHR and were counting on gaps under the doors you will have to think again. This one is a lot more effort to solve, requiring baffles in the air-flow. VIBRATION - e.g. vibrating drywall. As you mention "daughter singing" this may be less of an issue, vibration becomes more of a problem at lower frequencies. Staggered stud and resilient bar solves this problem. TRANSMISSION THROUGH SOLID MATERIALS - which you can solve with the techniques mentioned above - mass (double plasterboard) and rockwool - no more than 65% of the void. If you decide to go with double-plasterboard, suggest you consider a flexible "glue" (I used Green Glue - probably have some left lying around if interested) between the sandwich and pay attention to sealing all the way round on both layers, plus stagger and seal all joints. Done right this technique will tackle all three modes, above, to some degree.
  14. Not necessarily. We used the built-in controller in our ASHP to provide UFH cooling, plus the ASHP manufacturers room thermostat to provide heating and cooling control in one unit. All we needed use to set a link in the unit to enable cooling. No need to add any other components or controls, just switch the word "heat" for "cool" - e.g. the heated buffer becomes a cool buffer. My view on battery storage is that it is not (yet) cost effective. I divert extra solar to my DHW, and having a hybrid electric vehicle helps to consume some of the excess electricity. I don't think this one was addressed - our MVHR keeps humidity steady at around 40 to 50%. Why would you want to adjust this? It is possible to add a humidity sensor to the MVHR which would boost it when (e.g.) showering.