BartW

Hi, Thanks All for replies. Sorry, I took some time to get back to this. I investigated and water gets under GRP and facade treatment, and my suspicion is it drips into the balcony screen U frame then somehow through bolts fixings and gets inside. I sketched it below:

Hi, I am after some advice... We have windows and sliding doors in the timber frame, and a couple of them are leaking. One is in fact allowing water to pour into the property. We have them installed on installation foam, then sealed with silicone on the inside joint, and butted against with plasterboards. There is timber cladding externally, and upon discovery of the leak, I stripped timber and added silicone externally, but that has not helped. I am now at the point where I need to miracle something out before we move in four weeks time. How do others do in in a timber frame construction? Many thanks! Bart

Yes exactly my point and yes I read the exact same page. And it does mention circulation pump, but which one. as for the buffer, yes we have three floors of UFH. I just still don’t know if there is a pump in the tower already…

Hi all, a bit of a call for help. I have finally started the installation of vIllant unitower plus with Heat Pump. Many months ago when discussing this in relation to primary / secondary pumps and ways to connect the buffer it was said no need to have an additional pump as the one in the heat pump will pump the water in the circuit, and then individual manifold pumps will do the rest. well… when following the installation guide today, I cam across “connect the pump”. Wait a minute. I have not got one, I thought it was built into the unitower right? I am assuming that whatever pump the external unit comes with is part of a completely separate sealed circuit. So do I actually need another pump to push the water out of unitower and around the heating pipes? Many thanks! bart

Hi, Quick question: I am wiring multiple RGBW Tree dimmers and using them as separate "individual" dimmers. So 4 channels per device. The way they are wired is common positive, and separate negatives. Can I common up all positives from, say, 3 separate dimmer devices into one 8x4 terminal block, and then just run separate negatives to all individual channels?

Thanks, my only issue is that if I don’t do it now, I will never get around to changing them. Flex switches are cool, but turn out to be pricey when you consider pattern runs and their cost to set up the print. the Alibaba equivalents seem attractive option and fairly straightforward whilst giving dry contacts and looking “okay”. Then there is a mini computer option gia rs485 but as you said, will ever use that…

thank you! that’s one sensible answer that has been seriously considered. would they look odd if I mixed them in the same room? does faradite pose a slightly better value for money option than standard pure? And how usefule are the temp / humidity / co2 sensors in bedrooms? I was hoping to have one co2 switch per room to help trigger mvhr. Or should I not bother?

I bet they look pretty when are set to operate 2 blinds, and 4 light circuits all off one single switch plate?

What about something like this: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/90MM-size-12-24V-DC-dry_1600322834351.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_image.3be1382bHSdj09 A lot of dry contacts and ability to specify what particular buttons might / should refer to, which could be interesting and make for an easy all in one solution. Or even this for RS485 interface: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Custom-4-Inch-Smart-Hotel-Multi_1600589507298.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.30d5754ev1Pdnt Anyone tried something like these?

Does nobody use the expensive Loxone Pure CO2 then? Or even ones without CO2?

Hi, I am still debating which switch to choose. my thoughts: - Loxone Pure CO2 in bedrooms and Standard Pure in all other locations. Downside is that I would end up spending around £5k on switches alone - Loxone Pure. Forget CO2. Still nearly £5k… - Pure Co2 in key areas, but everything else would be standard tree switch in black. All in for less than £3k, but aren’t they ugly… - as above but replace Tree switches with retractive where feasible. Just over £2k for switches, but a complete mix of different solutions - Faradite - good looking, still £3k for switches with nanos, but missing a black glossy finish any opinions please? thanks bart

Good idea. i might know a person or two, but otherwise ignore would be my choice. Unless they insist to see it as part of the sign-off.

yes, and yes I will no doubt need someone to sign it off.

runs on 28mm diameter which is full bore. I think I will triple check .

I would find the valve a lot cleaner solution (and quicker, and I have already bought it...)