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Get it drawn up properly by a solicitor. It's not worth scrimping on a few hundred when there are many, many thousands at stake. One of my biggest regrets of our build was taking the word of a trusted main contractor and not having things in writing, only for our verbal agreement to be reneged upon in the final stages. Hope for the best but plan for the worst.

Hi and Welcome @selvbygg We did just as you are doing in 2003, we moved from Oxfordshire to the Inverness area in 2003, so I am fairly well placed to help you on your journey. Our search actually started in 2002 when we had a holiday up here and bought a 1 bedroom flat (to become a buy to let) Later after completing on the flat we came for another holiday to get the flat ready for rental and that's when we bought our first plot, which we completed building in 2004. We are now nearing the end of our second self build just 2 doors up the road from the first one. We had a similar range criteria that we wanted to be no more than half an hour from Inverness and we ended up pretty much on the northern limit of that. North of Inverness is cheaper than any other direction, even more so if you are prepared to go further up into Sutherland. By far the best place to search for plots is here https://www.hspc.co.uk/building-sites.asp If you want another recommendation for a solicitor I am happy to send you a PM. If you are wanting a static caravan I can point you to the two local dealers And if you find a plot close to here that you want someone to have a look at I am happy to oblige if I can.

Talk on 22 Jan, University of Surrey: https://events.theiet.org/buildings-that-breathe-how-to-save-energy-through-intelligent-design/

Sorry I hadn’t read the text that accompanied the post I thought you had done this yourself so I was reluctant to be to harsh The whole floor needs to come up Trying to rectify this won’t help The going rate for a company is about £30 m2 for a good job

Thanks Christine I will have a look at them. Not sure why the font is strange, perhaps I will have a look and try to change it.

Absolutely not, this is the finalfinal amazeballs design worthy of the Bill S. Preston Esquire and Theodore Logan price for excellence and anyone raising any critique is wrong and makes me and multiple puppies very sad. Form over function, obviously. Slightly more seriously though, what I think you're saying is that for simplicity and therefore build cost, walls should ideally be in a straight line through multiple floors, not offset. Makes a ton of sense, and well, this is frankly purely laziness on my part. Meaning: our architect has provided quite a nice design for our top floor (I'm not sure I can share her work freely on this open forum.. I think they retain some ownership on this, plus they were just sketches so far. I can share privately if interested, PM me, but it wouldn't fit the ground floor either.) so the top floor of this house is not really mindfully designed to actually fit, but really just a bunch of ideas thrown together. You're very right that ha, pretty much no 1st floor walls match with the ground floor ones. I award myself a B- for Bogus design. Single-storey roof though, not sure if that's a problem? I guess we have 'more than one roof' - one 2nd floor and "a few" 1st floor sections, is that dramatically more costly than one big roof? I'm sure it is.. but the house does look prettier for it. As an example - compare a pretty old version of the house design: with the current (sorry a bunch of render artifacts in the current that I meant to fix, but you get the idea) Perhaps it's not worth the $$$ and of course mindful of your point of supporting walls vs beams and columns etc but IMO the new one is a more aesthetically pleasing design.. Uh. Ask a pro, not me. QUick note: many people speak about very expensive omgomg and actually mean "5000 GBP extra cost" - yes it adds up and I strongly appreciate sturdy/solid/elegant designs, but purely from a financial point of view 5000 isn't making me blink too badly.. Yup, sounds sensible Difficult to be honest about from my point of view, I'd like to think my view is more 'as a whole' than you give credit for but frankly it is true that my requirements doc provides a ton of 'atomic' requirements that are patched together rather than a big vision through and through. You and I had the same discussion earlier and perhaps I'm too engineery and not artistic enough ... for one, this is exactly why I'm using a proper architect in this as well I'm hoping my design has a decent philosophy behind it, and ticks a ton of boxes.. but there you go Do you have some examples of what it would look like? Well, I do agree, but if anything that's what I'd argue I was doing.. for example not going for a full garage, having a large hall sacrificing 'bedrooms' (both number and size.. I could easily do 5BR if I really wanted) etc. Well, surely that's exactly what we have with the very oversized living area? Example? As for under-sized rooms: - Utility is currently massive, obviously. Only turning it into a real garage is a compromise the 'next buyer' could choose to make - Sneak pantry... I could imagine this going away in favor of even larger garage but there should be plenty storage anyway.. it got there mainly because the wife envisioned the whole 'not bothering the movie-watchers' scenario. - secret/consumer unit- reason it's there is that for having a nice TV watching experience, the office was actually too big.. the sofa was far away from the screen... Anything else? I kinda agree with the 'feeling' but I'm not sure what exact steps to take. I think EGreedy suggested removing pantry/toilet, but he(she?) needs a massive garage, we definitely don't.. This I think you might be correct in.. of course that pantry is a culprit there.. but I'm hoping our Architect will optimize that. Yes, that's Ferdy the Fern. No, it's.. one of the artifacts of my design crappitude.. which is that my top floor is not reallly solidly designed. The key reason that I didn't do your below suggestion: Is exactly because the space is only a small amount of sqm and it makes the spacious feel of the hallway much much better in the renders: vs I would much prefer that walkway to 'go somewhere sensible' but even when it doesn't, the spaciousness seems to matter... Well, perhaps.. I'd love to hear better solutions.. maybe I'm a cynic but I think *most* of houses such as this one don't have any solution for 'sneaking into the kitchen while the main living is in use' use case, they just assume that people will have to deal with people barging through the 'theatre'.. But maybe no solution is better than a poor one? It's a fair point. I guess this might come from my simple assumption to create a small-but-feasible optional garage, and take everything else from there. The space was there, the hallway had to be in its current place to not clash with the pillars in the living room... it's good of you to flag since it might not even be needed. Good idea. Hm, choices. The problem with such a design would be that we enjoy "looking at the garden" - in particular from the seating area. Either the seats would face directly away from the garden(as I think you are proposing), or the screen would block said garden view... Someone put it to us once that "unused space is a luxury" - I wonder if thats a correct sentiment in general and here in particular. Agreed that you could never put something permanent where the bifolds are now, but Id note that the bifolds will probably be open 99% of the year, only to close in the case of guests who we would want to shield from kitchen mess/noise. This is an interesting idea i'd have to mull over a bit more, thanks. Still, the point stands that in your proposed spot, the cineroom would be too 'cine-room-y' and not 'family-living-area-with-nice-multimedia-y' - eh, depends on how many kids there will be "Very Carefully" .. Worth thinking about but that one doesn't sound too hard with some extend-o-pole-swiping thing. A lot harder with windows above a piece of flat-ish roof on the 1st floor. Thanks a ton for all your candid comments, they are much appreciated, I was hoping for you to respond

Had the same problem trying to read it ? Scotframe seem to be the big name in Scotland however we used claymore timber frame in fife and our engineer complemented their kit, said it was one of the best he’d seen recently

A footnote to this thread with a bit if unscientific follow up research. A couple of buildhubbers visited yesterday and we were chatting about the different qualities of softened and filtered water. My main house water is softened but the kitchen sink tap is a Quooker that provides filtered water. A glass of each was poured and a taste test completed. The softened water had a pronounced salty tang to it but the filtered water was neutral. 3 out of 3 voted for filtered as drinking water on the basis of taste.

Why don't you buy it if it's going to be in your name at the end? Also, the planning process can be slower than you might think, if there is any controversy, it might take a lot longer than 3 months.

As a sign of the times, my old cleaning lady had a law degree and she advised that all agreements have written terms. If you think of all the possible permutations and unforeseens that could conceivably happen you will save a lot of money, as their job is to make you aware of just these issues. At the very least, if you decide to DIY get signatures witnessed. I might need to borrow from a family member but will do this to protect other members of my family who stand to inherit and would not be pleased if this was not clear, in case the worst happened. I guess you need to have wills too.

I have two thermostats on my DHW tank and I use the upper one for the two of us and switch it to the lower one (greater capacity of DHW ) when we have guests, it’s worked so far.

Funnily enough I have just lent a “chunk” of money to my stepson to help him buy a house after his split with his partner so he has a decent home for their daughter, against some peoples opinion it’s just an informal loan with no paperwork but I trust him 100%. Life is a gamble and I believe in gut feeling, but I know most people will think I am bonkers. Fastest way to fall out with friends and family is over money issues.

1. My cladding will be vented, with an insect mesh at the bottom, but doe's it also need to be vented at the top ? Yes 2. What about around any windows ? Do i need to close off the gap formed by the battens on which the cladding is hung, for fire etc . Battens all round windows to close the cavity but leave the vertical battens for the render board short at the top and the bottom so the air can flow round the window 3. Would you run strips of DPM down the battens before hanging the cladding ? It will not hurt. Staple it on. 4. As the cladding is rot proof, would it not be ok to just to have the vent at the bottom edge, to allow for any condensation formed to get out ? Top and bottom. 5. The battens would be treated, so would the DPM strips be considered over the top ? Not that hard to do so you may as well.

Appreciated nod what are u paying for the membrane? I prices it up the osb is near on 3 quid a m2. By the time you buy membrane and tape was coming out more expensive and I think fiddly/harder to Do. Like I say not trying to achieve and super performance just enough to make the mvhr worthwhile

Blame Brexit/election fever/school milk/20 MPH speed limits/wood burning stoves/Carol Vorderman/ @Ferdinand's cat

He's saying why use osb. I'm thinking if it's good enough for @joe90 it's good enough for me I'm not trying to beat the world

All plastered on the inside. Let the painting commence.

That's a bit cruel... @pocster deserves a break...

I once saw 'mini' spray foam blowing out a brick wall into the street below. Given this is on a major bus route I suspect the mortar on these Victorian buildings was pretty much dust.

I have played around with this over the week. Tesla power wall pre-charges itself during E7, based on the forecast weather. DHW is now schedule for 50 degrees from 2-5am Heating comes on to 21 degrees between 3:30 and 07:30 (end of E7) Setback to 19 degrees from 07:30 - 13:30 Heating comes on to 21 degrees from 13:30 - 17:30 Setback to 19 degrees from 17:30 until next day repeats. I have successfully used no peak electricity from doing this, as between the powerwall and minimal solar from our 7kw array, it covers off all electricity need from 07:30am through to 00:30 House is toasty as well

Screwfix also have red & black.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/nexans-speaker-cable-2-core-x-24-strand-25m-black-red/8895t

If you just need wire.... 0.5mm^2 red and black speaker cable.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-METERS-2-X-0-5MM-Red-and-Black-Speaker-Cable-Auto-HIFI-Boat-speaker-wire/152132141794?hash=item236bc842e2:g:feQAAOSw-dBTv8Um&redirect=mobile If you need connectors each end these will be specific to the make of LED fitting.

Most manufactures recommend a mortar mix (4 or 5 parts sand to 1 of cement and some plasticiser). Should probably prime the WBP with PVA first. Think the idea is to ensure the uneven underside of the tray is supported uniformly to prevent the tray cracking. Some make this a warranty requirement. Probably a few YouTube vids on this.

@AnonymousBosch 2 core cable here Grippa connectors here I get all my stuff from them, buy the profiles and the strip - even the trade stuff is very good.

I recall our electrician just soldering some white two core cable to the end of the strip and wiring the other end into the transformer. Stranded i suspect as its more flexible (was put in at first fix) and easier to solder. In my experience, solid has a habit of snapping off at the end. @ProDave is the qualified person here!

I went for the Cortizo and installed a few weeks ago. Seems good for the money, will be very slim sightlines once the floor and plasterboard etc is in.

I will love to see IQ glass in place! I am comparing all the slim sliding doors, including IQ glass, fineline etc. The cortizo cor vision system seems to be more reasonable and still looks pretty good.

Welcome to the forum. The self build journey starts here! By the way, what is this strange font you're using? I had to get my glasses out to read it. Might be best to change it to something more readable.

This may be controversial, but I also think there's a need to differentiate between a self-build, where the individuals who intend to occupy it have significant input into the design and build (method/specification) even if they're not particularly hands on in the actual construction, and what I'll term as 'custom build commissioners' who purchase a largely off the shelf design/turnkey build package (maybe choosing only the kitchen/bathroom finishes).

PCDB = Product Characteristics DataBase - performance characteristics used in RdSAP (epc's) and SAP

Theoretically (...) it shouldn't be unsafe.. of course lifts of any kind can theoretically malfunction, but in general other than that it might be a bit scarier than the kid imagined while trying it I don't really see a major issue? (not that I would encourage him to do that, but.. you should be able to open from inside etc..)

Marine ply is better quality as far as I'm aware, 100% void free. WBP isn't.

The rest of the glazing ? arrives tomorrow. So in theory all done apart from front door . Photos to follow

We found some land without PPIP that was not on the market and approached the landowner. We negotiated a price then drew up a contract with the landowner basically stipulating that we would purchase at that price if we could get PPIP and that he would sell it to us for that price. If we did not purchase it within 12 months of PPIP being in place he was then free to put it on the market. We paid for the PPIP and split the cost of getting the contract and conveyancing done. We had some engineering surveys done to mitigate some of the risk involved with groundwork then made then purchase.

A few up here in the Highlands and Islands. Scotframe are used often, they were not us and we decided to have our timber frame stick build on site. Remember services as well, assume nothing until you have firm quotes from utility providers.

I know conveyancing is different in Scotland, but the uplift in value is in gaining the planning, so someone has to take the risk, either you or the seller, you can't have it both ways unless you come to an agreement to split or apportion the costs/risk/profit and make an offer 'subject to planning'. If you have a plot in mind, you could visit the planning office and ask for a view, but it's still not cast iron. In areas where land values are lower and you can get a nice large plot, it may not be so problematic as down south. How about asking your family if they can sell you some land?

If the PIR is on the inside it will lower the temperature of the masonry and make it more likely to suffer from condensation, which could lead to serious structural issues if left unchecked. IWI tends to come with detailing for a vapour control membrane, but even then if it ever gets damaged, you could end up in trouble. Its all about the dew point within the structure, IWI moves the dew point further inside, EWI moves it further out. If you have PIR in the cavity I would imagine IWI is probably not a good idea, and EWI would be pointless since cavity PIR always comes with a cavity gap. Most people opt for EWI as you can also then use the masonry as thermal mass to help balance temperatures across the year. Sand/Cement render is very old school, thin coat render systems are very good at their jobs and if applied correctly they will last a long time, much longer than sand/cement render.

Why I moved to Cornwall, oh hang on.

Me too. Quarter-Irish Englishman with a Welsh surname building in Scotland as a hoped-for refuge from the decades-long slide of England into narrow-minded nuttiness.

The Englishman here! Embarrassingly admit to being born in England but as the country seems to be suffering from a widespread mental illness at the moment we have decided to move up to the Highlands to be with my family and live a simpler life in Britain's most beautiful place.

Oh well, looks like the standpipe outside for me, then!

That's your age Steve!

*stops digging*

Shall we have a sweepstake for whether it fits ? (Sacrificing future invitations to @pocster's whilst he is still alive and in possession of capacity.)

It's the skeleton cupboard ... ? .

My father, in later life, was head of maintenance at a public school. He once sent to apprentice over to the kitchens, as they had an issue with the Dumb Waiter. On arrival he asked, which one of you is the Dump Waiter? He never lived it down!

Realistically, if you have that problem already, the new, more expensive problem will be waiting for someone to feel like loading/unloading the dumb waiter! Just put up with a load of crap at each end of the stairs (everyone has it ?), count down the years 'till the kids move out and invest the cost in a holiday!