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vivienz last won the day on June 27

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About vivienz

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  1. Ah, thanks chaps. OH has managed to get it undone and there is no washer. Looks like a trip to Screwfix.
  2. I noticed a leak from our washing machine waste pipe, on the upper entry side to the u-bend. It's been leaking for a while, as you can see from the effect on the plasterboard. What's the best way to seal this? I should add that I can't loosen the joint.
  3. Mine was supposed to have had more silencing things added to it, but they weren't done. There are a few things that need remedial work, so I will add this to the list.
  4. I'd silence every part I could. Ours has been in for a couple of months now and is located in the loft space above the upstairs landing and our en suite. On any setting above the lowest fan speed, the noise from the unit is like being on a car ferry when it revs its engines up. It's especially noisy when the integral cooling pump comes on - quite thunderous in the en suite and enough to keep you awake at night in the adjacent bedroom.
  5. I have 2 heated towel radiators in my bathrooms that are wired to come on with the electric UFH. Can anyone recommend some not too clunky/expensive elements to put in these? Thanks!
  6. Ah, thanks. It seems that I have some redundant switches, then.
  7. My unit is an ecocent from earthsave products; other than that, I can't tell you much about it, I'm afraid.
  8. Giving this thread a bump. My bathrooms and downstairs loo have a switch next to the light switch, on the same face plate, that is to allow a timed boost to the MVHR to extract any overly pungent smells after the deed has been done. Although the switches are there (they are rocker switches, I believe) there is no circuitry to link and tell the MVHR system what to do. What should I be looking for to put this right rather than have redundant and confusing switches? Is there a proprietary box of tricks that can be purchased? Thanks.
  9. That makes sense. The system has been designed to have zoned heat as, otherwise, what's the point of thermostats in each room rather than one single one for everywhere. The hardwiring is in and I currently have cables dangling out of the walls next to the light switch in every room.
  10. Depends on who is behind it.
  11. Not the best time of year for weedkilling as they are dying down anyway about now. If you use glyphosate it's best to hold off until late spring/early summer when there is maximum leaf coverage as the chemical is absorbed through the leaves.
  12. Why does it need to be glass? We've got a pocket door to our main bathroom and it's a standard door but with sliding kit into a twin stud wall.
  13. In the near constant temperature world of UFH and a highly insulated building, does the GMT/BST thing matter?
  14. Thanks, chaps. The bathrooms aren't in the wet UFH loop, I have electric UFH mats and heated towel rails, although there are no elements in the towel rails yet, so the bathrooms will be okay once this is done. I don't mind not having the downstairs heating zoned - there's not much point as far as I can see, but I would prefer the upstairs to be zoned as one of the rooms is my office/sewing room and I don't want to get chilly in there. For the downstairs, then, I'm okay to get hold of some programmable thermostats (not interested in smart ones) and get them wired in, from the sound of things, and that will at least sort out the ground floor.
  15. Sorry for the delay in posting pics here, Sunday lunch for the outlaws gets longer every time; it will extend into a candlelit supper before long (on Royal Doulton china with hand-painted periwinkles, of course). Anyhow, these are photos of the ground floor UFH manifold and the gubbins in the garage, including the willis heaters. I believe that the UFH circuit isn't commissioned yet, in so far as the pump isn't wired up and the pipes need bleeding, so it's just the ground floor for now. I'm not sure how much longer the house will remain at a comfortable temperature so I need to get the room stats sorted asap.