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Oz07

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Everything posted by Oz07

  1. Oz07
    Might be in the compo
  2. Oz07
    I screw linings after pilot and countersinking all legs at the same time. It's slow but I like linings to be spot on. Watch out your not fixing linings where lock or hinges go. Recipe for blunt chisels. I would never screw the architraves on that just seems rough as hell to me. 2nd finish nailer all day. I've seen people do the whole set at time but seems to much agro to me. I go bang all the heads on then cut all legs. Leaving out rooms where flooring to be fitted first.
  3. Oz07
    I always join on joist it's not hard if you've set joists out for a multiple of 2400. Doesn't waste too much and I just trim all outside after finishing deck
  4. Oz07
    Would that hall give enough space with regards to disabled regs. You need the 800mm clearance between doors plus certain allowance to turn? Same issue for gf wc. May just need tweaking with slightly wider stairs and hall
  5. Oz07
    Yeh my guns never been right since I used this gas 2/3weeks ago. I've serviced it twice but never had a lint free cloth to hand so hoping when I do it next time with the cloth it's 100%. Is there anything else you can do apart from clean and oil? I can't see what else goes wrong
  6. Oz07
    Really struggled on last build as used some left over 4" duct for water and kept catching on corrugated sides. Tried a few tricks which didn't work before I noticed some 10mm speedfit knocking about. Straight through with rope on end, rope tied to mdpe, mdpe pulled straight through
  7. Oz07
    No I mean you don't rip 200mm into 25 you cut 25mm gear to the desired width. You'd certainly struggle at 200mm thick
  8. Oz07
    Are you having a laugh?
  9. Oz07
    Seen it loads. 100mm rip will be fine. Merchants will do it on wall saw if you ask nicely. The polythene holds it in place. You will prob end up using a lot of 25mm otherwise and more wasteage on your thicker sheets
  10. Oz07
    Keith vaz will sort u out
  11. Oz07
    It's being built overhand. Guessing he doesn't want to climb out on the corner to take the line up!
  12. Oz07
    I saw one used on a job last year. As has been said the finish was so good I pity the bloke who has to touch up when done
  13. Oz07
    Never done it at a shed. What did you pay out of interest? I don't pay that much for 70x45 and find it much more rigid
  14. Oz07
    Is your mains water to come in one of those 63mm ducts. Be weary of water supplier and their inspection criteria. Sometimes they want to see 4" duct. God knows why.
  15. Oz07
    The windows are fixed into timber frame thru reveals over there too. They're a "structural" part of the window I suppose
  16. Oz07
    The windows come with reveals pre fixed in oz and are put in before brickwork skin on 1st fix. Anyway i I don't think that ply is 3 layers. They're probably cleverly using some rips as an architrave. I agree looks cool
  17. Oz07
    I'd rather have ic's and ridding points than not have them and need them! You know you can use the lids which can be paved
  18. Oz07
    Why have you discounted a standard cavity closer?
  19. Oz07
    Patching plaster it's lean and weak to seal dust. Then slightly stronger and tacky before filling with plaster
  20. Oz07
    Hope it's not the difference between Phillips and pozi. 90% of blokes I work with can't tell between
  21. Oz07
    Something to keep in mind also @joe90 should have no trouble insuring or obtaining finance on build method he has described. Other methods may be considered non standard and cause a hiccup for lenders. Right or wrong that's the world we're in and warrants some thought depending on your intentions.
  22. Oz07
    Sorry yes
  23. Oz07
    Cmon Ferdinand if floor area was that crucial the big boys wouldn't be doing dot n dab! 50mm round a perimeter adds up but I doubt the internal area/value is going to stack up exactly like that. Especially with how the British buy. Bedrooms as opposed to floor space
  24. Oz07
    Your near Midlands aren't you? EH Smith do 2 good ones. The black one is around 100 quid. Supposed to be non permable but I've noticed water pool on it. White one is better but closer to 200 quid. I've used both before Wait till you start talking to groundworks people. They reckon there's about 500 different specs.
  25. Oz07
    To be fair I had blown in dritherm on last house I built. This was after bad experiences of brickies installing poorly. However I'm not sure how well the blown in job was. If going down glass fibre route you just need to make sure subbies are thorough. Eps beads are the way forward though as you say. Better flow and better performance
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