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Oz07

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Everything posted by Oz07

  1. Yeh my guns never been right since I used this gas 2/3weeks ago. I've serviced it twice but never had a lint free cloth to hand so hoping when I do it next time with the cloth it's 100%. Is there anything else you can do apart from clean and oil? I can't see what else goes wrong
  2. Really struggled on last build as used some left over 4" duct for water and kept catching on corrugated sides. Tried a few tricks which didn't work before I noticed some 10mm speedfit knocking about. Straight through with rope on end, rope tied to mdpe, mdpe pulled straight through
  3. No I mean you don't rip 200mm into 25 you cut 25mm gear to the desired width. You'd certainly struggle at 200mm thick
  4. Are you having a laugh?
  5. Seen it loads. 100mm rip will be fine. Merchants will do it on wall saw if you ask nicely. The polythene holds it in place. You will prob end up using a lot of 25mm otherwise and more wasteage on your thicker sheets
  6. Keith vaz will sort u out
  7. It's being built overhand. Guessing he doesn't want to climb out on the corner to take the line up!
  8. I saw one used on a job last year. As has been said the finish was so good I pity the bloke who has to touch up when done
  9. Never done it at a shed. What did you pay out of interest? I don't pay that much for 70x45 and find it much more rigid
  10. Is your mains water to come in one of those 63mm ducts. Be weary of water supplier and their inspection criteria. Sometimes they want to see 4" duct. God knows why.
  11. The windows are fixed into timber frame thru reveals over there too. They're a "structural" part of the window I suppose
  12. The windows come with reveals pre fixed in oz and are put in before brickwork skin on 1st fix. Anyway i I don't think that ply is 3 layers. They're probably cleverly using some rips as an architrave. I agree looks cool
  13. I'd rather have ic's and ridding points than not have them and need them! You know you can use the lids which can be paved
  14. Why have you discounted a standard cavity closer?
  15. Patching plaster it's lean and weak to seal dust. Then slightly stronger and tacky before filling with plaster
  16. Hope it's not the difference between Phillips and pozi. 90% of blokes I work with can't tell between
  17. Something to keep in mind also @joe90 should have no trouble insuring or obtaining finance on build method he has described. Other methods may be considered non standard and cause a hiccup for lenders. Right or wrong that's the world we're in and warrants some thought depending on your intentions.
  18. Sorry yes
  19. Cmon Ferdinand if floor area was that crucial the big boys wouldn't be doing dot n dab! 50mm round a perimeter adds up but I doubt the internal area/value is going to stack up exactly like that. Especially with how the British buy. Bedrooms as opposed to floor space
  20. Your near Midlands aren't you? EH Smith do 2 good ones. The black one is around 100 quid. Supposed to be non permable but I've noticed water pool on it. White one is better but closer to 200 quid. I've used both before Wait till you start talking to groundworks people. They reckon there's about 500 different specs.
  21. To be fair I had blown in dritherm on last house I built. This was after bad experiences of brickies installing poorly. However I'm not sure how well the blown in job was. If going down glass fibre route you just need to make sure subbies are thorough. Eps beads are the way forward though as you say. Better flow and better performance
  22. Out of interest is the timescale for payback no good on swapping full fill 37 with dritherm 32? What difference in u value would you get and how long would it take to pay back?
  23. Seen it from a decent sized tf manufacturer here before. Probably not ideal.
  24. So I thought to till I had one turn up once. They have a tablet and big pole connected to satellite
  25. 40:1 gradient in line with grooves. Go back and jack it up one end or firing strips
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