Jump to content

stepheni

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • Location
    Scotland

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

stepheni's Achievements

Member

Member (3/5)

2

Reputation

  1. ok guys cheers will see how it goes
  2. I have uploaded a few pictures of the floor. Would you say that I am right to be disappointed with this. The builder is coming tomorrow morning to take a look so just wondering what I should be expecting from him as a resolution. After speaking to the karndean installers they say they would always be laying a 3-4mm screed anyway before laying floor but there is no way as far as I could tell that it would fix this floor. Do I ask him to grind/sand the ridges away and level of any bad areas (can this even be done) or should I just leave the levelling to the karndean installers. The karndean guy said the screed they use for levelling has latex in it and normally goes down after kitchen is installed. appreciate any further advice
  3. He has only done a couple of jobs for me and things have been fine until now. Haven't paid anything yet so onus on him to resolve. Just popped into the karndean place round the corner from my work to explain what has happened. He kind of laughed and said 100% of the jobs they do need the floor screeded no matter how smooth the builder says he has got the floor too. So it looks like I would have had to pay to get this done anyway about £6 m2. I still need to get the worst of the ridges sorted though.
  4. I figured they could just be cut off with grinder but would appreciate the builder just saying that after coming to take a look rather than having a go at me. Even if I was laying a carpet with thick underlay wouldn't hide these ridges!
  5. wet concrete finished about 5pm last night. I haven't walked over it but standing at the door looking across I can see about 3 or 4 ridges about a metre or so long which are sticking up about 20mm. It is obviously where they have just lifted up the float and it has stuck to the floor a bit and created a ridge. Overall it looks pretty flat and they were using a laser its just these few ridges. The builder said on the phone that I was just "being difficult". He hasn't turned up and hasn't responded to text yet.
  6. I have just had my concrete screed laid yesterday for my ufh. I explained to the builder that it needed to be a smooth flat finish as I was just laying karndean directly to this. I was told this was no problem and that it would be perfect. Got home last night to see a far from perfect floor with a 3 or 4 long ridges protruding some 20mm. I have phoned the builder and he is supposed to be coming round this morning. What are my options here? Pretty disappointed.
  7. amazing looking kitchen Ian. What about something like this on ebay for £569 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Orion-T1-100cm-Stainless-Steel-Ceiling-Cooker-Hood-700m3-h-Motor-AUGUST-SALE/182698602731?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D65998f82dd5a4c54b81d01344fd68f13%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D7%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D152002824031&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042
  8. Really appreciate the feedback guys. Unfortunately too late for ducting any of the downdraft type extractors as the floor slab and ufh is in with final screed being laid this week. I did consider these a few months ago but again discounted them due to cost and I suppose wrongly assumed a flat ceiling one wouldn't cost much, Declan - Whats the overall depth of the drop ceiling you have there. One of the kitchen designers suggested the same as you that putting a standard canopy extractor in works fine. I was concerned about the depth of the drop required as the extraction duct seems to sit on the top of the all of these type whereas the flat ceiling ones come out of the side. I only have standard 2400 ceilings so really wanted to keep the drop minimal.
  9. We are installing an island in our new kitchen with an induction hob on the island. My wife doesn't want a large extractor hanging down over the island. Just wondering what the options are for ventilation in an open plan kitchen area. Looked at building a dropped ceiling area over the island to house a flat ceiling mounted extractor but it seems a very expensive option. Alternatively looked at a wall mounted unit but not sure how that will look aesthetically or how effective it would be away from the hob. How would you even switch it on/off. This is a new extension to a renovation project so no MVHR installed. Anyone any suggestions?
  10. Cheer Nick I have done just that worked out great. one follow on query is regarding the area around the bifolds. I take it I just have to run the screed right up to the door as I obviously can't knock out the blocks the doors are sitting on. My plan was to run 25mm insulation around the perimeter as insulated plasterboard will sit over this and place the thin blue explansion foam in front of the 25mm insulation. In front of the doors all I can really do is run the thin blue explansion strip between the screed and the doors. Is that correct?
  11. This is picture of my floor to ceiling window where it meets the floor. I am about to lay the insulation boards for below the ufh(example board cut in photo) but I am unsure how to finish off this area from the floor across to the window. Should I just leave as is per photo and just run the concrete screed straight across from here to meet the cavity insulation board? Alternatively do I knock that last course of brick out and run the insulation right through to meet the cavity insulation therefore all ufh within the insulation. Also I am using paper backed insulation boards rather than foil with a standard concrete screed. Do I need to a plastic sheet over the top of this prior to screed going down or tape the joins? thanks Stephen
  12. my wife was adamant we weren't putting in a damaged/repaired bath so after much moaning at the supplier they have agreed to give me a new one at a cut down price. Perhaps I could sell the old slightly damaged one online for someone willing to diy repair thanks for the suggestions
  13. My plumber has just went to fit our new bath and he has noticed a big chip in it beside the plughole (see pic). Unfortunately I bought the bathroom suite about 5 months ago and the supplier is refusing to exchange it. It has been sitting in the corner of our new extension all this time and I am sure I would have noticed it when it got delivered but couldn't gaurantee that someone has dropped something on it. Do I either stump up the cash and buy another or look at something like this to attempt a repair? I am concerned the repair won't last even though the reviews on the product seem really good. http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/cramer-scratch-and-chip-repair-1845-14381
  14. Cheers nick got it. Anyone got an answer on the first question on whether it is ok to use the non foil boards?
  15. I am soon to be laying my underfloor heating in my extension but have a couple of queries. Is it ok to use non-foil PIR insulation under the screed? I am sure I read on the celotex website that the foil was only necessary if there was an air gap behind the insulation. This would then be covered in polythene before pouring the screed See from picture that I have 75mm left from top of insulation. Was planning on a traditional sand/cement screed (65-70mm) then leaving 5-10mm for vinyl flooring (karndean or similar). Would this be ok or should I look at liquid screed? What do you do round the perimeter for UFH for insulation? Also if you see in the photo at the bottom of the doors there is a ridge how do you deal with this for the perimeter insulation
×
×
  • Create New...