Oz07

i wouldn't worry about it if it was being covered and has reinforcement.

Theres also maximum bay sizes with certain types of concrete. The agilia mix I usually use for instance. Like you say, a neat saw cut following on from a nib or wall, or in the centre of a room looks proper, a wonky crack doesn't

Conventionally it's just there too control cracking. You might get away without if steel reinforced. I put them in at every weak point. Doorway etc. Also try and split tiled rooms with the direction you will be tiling. If theres no ufh then no reason not to put in for how long they take

Had to leave a 600x1200 section out of boarding for stairwell to be done other month. Said to plasterer, who also boarded, when you've skimmed stairwell don't forget to insulate that section before u board and skim. All other partitions had been filled with rock wool of which we had a few slabs left. Also just by chance had a piece of celotex knocking around near enough that size. What do u think the genius put in the wall?!? just shows what your dealing with

De Ja Vu, The regs state the level of sound which must not pass thru, not how you achieve it. Posi joists comply on their own in England, without need for wool in most cases. I'm all for 50mm of wool as above as this fits neatly between top/bottom chords and out the way of services. 42db from memory

nail guns to fix plastic windows. Check for spurs on their boots n all

Split blocks for cupboards if your not putting noggins in. Should at least get a fixing into two battens that way. Otherwise I usually nog at 2100 centre with 4" on flat

Makes sense if you want to sell the machine. Can't fault you. How did the repair go?

40db sound reduction was my understanding http://www.mitek.co.uk/Products/Posi-Joist/Product-Brochure/ Note how much difference the 100mm wool makes! Less than 5%

Sorry I think thats the one i used last rock wool RWA45. Seemed pretty stiff and self supporting. With regards to ceiling acoustic insulation I am pretty sure posi joists conform to english acoustic regs but not scottish regs (on their own). Although if the house was for myself i'd prefer a bit of ceiling wool aswell. 50mm would work well being the approx thickness of either I beam or Posi joist top/bottom rails.

Rs45? Look for robust details or a general spec online

Depends how much risk you want to take on without speaking to planners. Are you getting it at the right money?

By the way even National Grid are now requesting 110mm. You need to lay any smaller stuff really well with minimal bends to avoid problems. I got a bit nervous when I saw the size and stiffness of the 95NCE? which had to be pulled thru my 110mm. Lucky we had some digger tracks to wind the rope up on!

Not bad price. Last time I bought 3no. 100mm rolls (gas, leccy, water) I seem to remember it being over 300 with Vodka and Tonic. Citrus rings a bell as the firm who supplied

I'd err on the side of caution as others say. It may be safe to assume what has stood before will be okay for replacement but as terry says may have to be re built the same design and size with it being a conservation area. Are you happy with how the house was prior to burning down? Also any reason why current owners haven't sorted any planning?

Don't talk in degrees it confuses the situation! How many MM of fall per metre? Like nick says you can get away with less. I was talking to some civils blokes and they reckon they go 6mm per m on the bigger stuff

We can all think of ways to save money but think of all the "surveyors " etc it would put out of a job!

12m X 12.5mm is 150mm fall thats if if the full 12 is horizontal and at 1:80. Plenty of force if just dropped from 1st floor level. Plenty of clips in pipe to keep nice and straight if hung from joists

Good advice but no way would they stand for that here! I'm not having a dig excuse pun but there is that much computer says no going on you wouldn't be able to say to the gas board- by the way don't quote me for any street works I've already laid your ducts in the road!

I wouldn't use lightweights if I were you. Use conc with a similar desinty to existing brickwork. Lightweight is asking for cracking still take the above precautions also

Doesn't seem to be the case where I am. I've had a few delays lately due to double booked street permits. Our council doesn't let 2 utilities have them they the same week. The only solution I can think is to get in touch with someone at the company doing works and say what you've said above. Perhaps they will adjust?

Well I used a couple to span a low spot on a temporary access as a bridge. Eventually cracked but that was with a loaded 3.5t on top. Under a full bed these are about as strong as slabs get I think. Loads of paths don't in them and I've seen grab lorrys and all sorts on top. If your gravels nice n flat. Perhaps a bit sharp sand n cement to blind gravel then you will be well ok

If it's listed on plan then tread carefully. Perhaps wait till your works are complete. Lesson for future have planning drawings be as vague as possible!

Acrylic seal along where skirting meets floor. Expanding foam around any holes for ducts or drains. Floor or walls.

Will you be painting the riser? I'd opt for ply if not. It won't develop any shakes so reduces chances of staircase creaking in future. Oak is susceptible to shakes so probably go for 30mm if it doesn't bust the budget.