Oz07
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Posts
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Everything posted by Oz07
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hmm perhaps the change in level doesn't help in gauging a flat slab but still disappointing. Perhaps MBC should consider self compacting concrete if struggling with skills shortage?
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Was @JSHarris slab not power floated? From the sounds of it the two latest slabs haven't been? Has this been dropped from the spec or is it an 'extra' within the package? I usually use a self compacting concrete which with not much skill you can get to within 10mm. Dare say tighter tolerance if you spend a little more time and effort on it.
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Definitely apply once you own the plot but before you start the build. I found in the past these landers want to be in from the outset regardless of how little you want from them. Once mortgage agreed you may only need the initial valuation or 1 further mid build valuation to enable the LTV to be sufficient to release funds to complete the build.
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Couldn't believe how expensive those flat ceiling ones are. Do look good though
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I'm late to this just read thru. Cracking looking staircase. Whether i'd put 8k into it is another thing but does look the dogs.
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Surely a lower pitch is more susceptible to uplift. I bet manufacturers don't approve straight bond. I wouldn't be paying
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Were you forced to have sprinkler system? looking good. Love a screeded first floor feels so solid. Did you get on ok screeding ground floor with the water ?
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Can I have kudos for my initial advice then!?
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That was hard work wasn't it
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I have 20mm of packers taped on an old 800 level and do the same ratio to a 6ft level when I lay drains. When the bubbles right the fall is good
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Don't send them an email you might show the bloke up and get his bad side. 1:40 is 25mm in a meter. 1:80 is 12.5mm in a meter. Just do do what I said. Run it at 1:40 and have one steep section between two ic's
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The whole point of graded batten is to use as a ladder. Give it an hour you'll get a feel for it
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Latch or spindle hole may be tight. Wiggle spade bit round usually solves
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Your going to need a dpc all around at 150 above ground level. Not bridging cavity. I'd probably leave a few perps out in the first course of brickwork externally sitting on ring beam. Free drawing gravel with no fines to let any trapped water/moisture drain from cavity.
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He's saying he's got to drop too much in 15m
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Btw why don't you condense all these drainage posts into one?!
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People say blockages occur if pipe too steep. However if you were to set 2 ic's up around 4' apart I reckon you could get away with a steep fall between. I can't remember finding a blockage in a too steep section of pipe. Much less a 4" smooth plastic pipe with decent velocity. Have a word with your BCO he might even be ok with IC and rodding eye. Otherwise you can do backdrop but above seems simpler to me
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Yeh third round for hip
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Isn't the whole point of b&b that the ground inside can move and heave? I've never been a fan of long runs underneath beams for this reason. I think it would be preferable to dig a trench filled with pea gravel allowing a big of movement without upsetting the falls.
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To be fair this scenario is still cold roof as far as venting is concerned isn't it. I.e. The insulation will be between and below rafters meaning you will need ventilation to stop condensation on timbers. A true warm roof would have insulation above rafters and no condensation risk. thats my understanding anyway...
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Because the big bad BCO says so! I dunno it's just standard
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Can it be in the pub for 3? Bet it can't hold its ale
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sorry I'm wrong that is also cold roof what I described but utilising roofspace
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Think you are getting confused here OP. Sound to me like you're putting on a warm roof if insulation is to be between rafters. You will have to leave a 50mm gap not 10mm gap from insulation to the outside face of the rafter. Membrane to droop approx 10mm as you say. You leave the membrane short at the ridge by 30mm because you have a ventilated, dry fix ridge. The air comes into the roof at fascia level and exits at ridge level.
