Oz07

I'm late to this just read thru. Cracking looking staircase. Whether i'd put 8k into it is another thing but does look the dogs.

Surely a lower pitch is more susceptible to uplift. I bet manufacturers don't approve straight bond. I wouldn't be paying

Were you forced to have sprinkler system? looking good. Love a screeded first floor feels so solid. Did you get on ok screeding ground floor with the water ?

Can I have kudos for my initial advice then!?

That was hard work wasn't it

I have 20mm of packers taped on an old 800 level and do the same ratio to a 6ft level when I lay drains. When the bubbles right the fall is good

Don't send them an email you might show the bloke up and get his bad side. 1:40 is 25mm in a meter. 1:80 is 12.5mm in a meter. Just do do what I said. Run it at 1:40 and have one steep section between two ic's

The whole point of graded batten is to use as a ladder. Give it an hour you'll get a feel for it

Latch or spindle hole may be tight. Wiggle spade bit round usually solves

Your going to need a dpc all around at 150 above ground level. Not bridging cavity. I'd probably leave a few perps out in the first course of brickwork externally sitting on ring beam. Free drawing gravel with no fines to let any trapped water/moisture drain from cavity.

He's saying he's got to drop too much in 15m

Btw why don't you condense all these drainage posts into one?!

People say blockages occur if pipe too steep. However if you were to set 2 ic's up around 4' apart I reckon you could get away with a steep fall between. I can't remember finding a blockage in a too steep section of pipe. Much less a 4" smooth plastic pipe with decent velocity. Have a word with your BCO he might even be ok with IC and rodding eye. Otherwise you can do backdrop but above seems simpler to me

I wouldn't bother trying to bring it back into the house. Watering the garden though yeh

Yeh third round for hip

Isn't the whole point of b&b that the ground inside can move and heave? I've never been a fan of long runs underneath beams for this reason. I think it would be preferable to dig a trench filled with pea gravel allowing a big of movement without upsetting the falls.

To be fair this scenario is still cold roof as far as venting is concerned isn't it. I.e. The insulation will be between and below rafters meaning you will need ventilation to stop condensation on timbers. A true warm roof would have insulation above rafters and no condensation risk. thats my understanding anyway...

Because the big bad BCO says so! I dunno it's just standard

Can it be in the pub for 3? Bet it can't hold its ale

sorry I'm wrong that is also cold roof what I described but utilising roofspace

Think you are getting confused here OP. Sound to me like you're putting on a warm roof if insulation is to be between rafters. You will have to leave a 50mm gap not 10mm gap from insulation to the outside face of the rafter. Membrane to droop approx 10mm as you say. You leave the membrane short at the ridge by 30mm because you have a ventilated, dry fix ridge. The air comes into the roof at fascia level and exits at ridge level.

Some suppliers will offer pump and conc. save the vat and also no risk of paying for pump if the gear is no good

If you put a batten or perhaps 2 battens on top each other (if needed) at the very bottom of your rafters it should give your tile enough kick as if it's sitting on another tile then you can leave fascia till roof is done

Bt normally drop off a whole roll of about one million metres with 2 lengths of duct. +1 to above. I nearly had a heart attack when I seen the 60 odd mm cable they had to pull thru a 4" duct I laid!

Are you doing this yourself? Personally I'd swallow the cost of a roofer. See if you can find a good one on day work and labour to him. There's a lot of tips and tricks they know and I doubt you'll find all the answers here! Also they've got all the right kit which will come within their rate - less consumables. Not saying this to sound rude, it's just what I'd do! Goes against ethos of forum I suppose!