Oz07

Not explicitly ( can't spell nessecarily?!). Most BCO would accept a ramped threshold a bit like a hardwood window board. It could be better practically to have a 200mm wide 25mm ramp in oak say than a 15mm hard step. As ever discuss with BCO as it's their interpretation.

What do you suggest just pick the house up and move it then?! i suppose it's an unfortunate thing that gets overlooked or not noticed until you've had a winter on site. if downwards snorkel doesn't work suppose you just have to turn off mvhr, crack a couple of windows a touch and maybe put a small bit of heat into dwelling? this is what keeps me from wanting an all singing and dancing passive level house atm. A lot of issues to be ironed out. Ok if your a scientist like @JSHarris but a lot of it goes over my head!

Can mhvr not be modded to filter smoke out?

Think there is s section for receipts without any details on. You send details of the build and I think they will quickly glance over to make sure you're not taking the Micky. Is security fencing detailed on your planning? Wouldn't imagine it is liable for vat recovery

As an aside I've never found out what fully happened there and I'd probably been a member since 2011.

I think min investment would have to be 1000 maybe 500 at a minimum. As Ferdinand said above though on the whole a mortgage on Dave's existing house at low LTV would probably produce the cheapest borrowing. The debt would be serviced by the rent you receive and maybe even cover it a good number of times depending on amount you raise. Think that is the answer.

I'm not sure you even understand what you are asking. You sit the internal vent on the same course you place your beams. The beams hold the block infill 50mm above this course. Your vent fits in this gap what alternative is there?! What are you asking?!

So are underground fittings ok inside as long as no uv exposure? I've always kept them for underground use only.

Ground level outside

I'd get your building regs drawings done first if you haven't already. For pricing. A lot can be fixed, some will be provisional

If you fix to external skin your only really limited by how good a fixing you can get. 30mm over brickwork 40mm into cav seems to work ok. Last new build I used a different method for better fixing. Fixed a 2x2 treated batten up the inside face of brickwork, cavity closer thickness back from edge and dpc between timber and brick. This enables you to drop it back more but still get decent fixing. Although with a thinner cavity it might be hard to do.

Or do as we are on current job. Let partitioners do all work on price with double plasterboard. Don't bother to spec ply on back layer. let dry liners steam ahead covering everywhere. Later cut out patches everywhere to put support in for everything after skim and mist coat. Proceed to complain job is behind and wonder why finish is crap.

Just buy a box 10/12

Looks good

2 layers of dpm if pir insulation.

Thought there would be a solution! how was your racking done @ProDave? Studs set to imperial or metric boards sourced?

Is there no metric sheets of OSB made specifically for this issue? Or can t&g sheeting be bought which works with 400/600?

Didn't notice till you said! Small pictures on these phones! nice looking drum!

Op suggest 10% perhaps and payable day work starts?

Cmon @JSHarris your maths is better than that

BCO usually agree during build providing your as built SAP will still stack up

Providing you have the easement and could lay new pipe I'm guessing if the economics worked for one house it will certainly work for 5! I.e. You should be able to afford a new main with the uplift in value of land

Pm'd

Definitely coming from the flue. @Nickfromwales any ideas?

I wish! seems to be coming out the flue though. Just been outside and is as loud as inside.