Oz07

Also what are treads covered in? i assume those end caps hide the fixings from glass to treads?

I remember the discussion anyone got a link. Does look good. Well done

Last milwaukee cordless repaired halfway thru warranty period then failed again 1 month out of warranty. Tried to get repaired as goodwill but no joy. I bought milwaukee again but only because I got 18v naked for £100 odd. 3 year warranty. To be honest I've come to conclusion that I use a drill so much it's bound not too last for ever. If I can get a drill for £33 per year thats a good deal. Although will have to renew batteries at some point.

Any builder worth his salt will come to same conclusion as brickie. Exclude. Unessecary.

It's also the same price as oak and i've seen oak windows a lot older than 70 years!

Is that the pedestrian protection recommended cover? i drove a machine over soil pipe once to test how strong it is. Took a few tonne of Jcb before started to crush a bit

Clay spade bucket. Like you say more or less cheekless and tapered

Looks nice and dense. Quality

A PCC enables you to borrow money on your finished house without the expense of a warranty. I think the comments above are a bit OTT. Alot of people view nhbc as worthless remember!

If just submitting your costings to lender then definitely don't waste too much time on mortar! like you say use online calc and multiply if you have a 300mm thick solid wall. Although usually 2 100mm leaves ie times 2

What is it?

Wherever something will crack you use a gap or a champher to create a gap where it cracks. Hides the crack in the shadow rather than trying to stop it happening

Laminate is hardly a product designed to last forever. I think we all know we're changing it every 10 years. Buy it the kitchen variety, save the money and stress then do it all again in 10 years. The style will be out of date by then at the least!

Stop bead and shadow gap at newel to plasterboard? Would likely crack otherwise. You could fill shadow gap with flexible caulk see if the looks ok?

+1 to snips

Mine have always been ok straight onto the egger protect flooring which I think is the same as weyrock. whats the theory behind the ditra mat. Is this glued to the flooring then tiled onto?

You just need the black and white plan at 1:200 a3 then you can draw lines on it and shade yourself. Surveyor doesn't need to do that for u

I thought these had already been done by someone or is this an innovation? The integrated units don't look bad anyway. How serviceable and easy to install will these be?

Who's bothered about how much damage the fire brigade do, that's what insurance is for!

1:60 is fine with good workmanship on 110mm. I've just gone 1:80 on a job to keep it low as you say. I've never used solvent weld underground so couldn't comment. If you did ever have a leak though don't forget they repair them from inside the pipe this day and age!

If you're going to test do it in stages. Don't want to put all your drains in and not know where a leak is. I normally just put a Bing in at start and put a bend on where I want to test to. Fill with water. Think you're actually allowed a not insignificant amount of leakage depending on surface area of run. I've never really seen the level drop on PVC systems

Suppose low expansion would be key to it working well. Wouldn't want to come back to a wall for all the boards to be 10mm out at the top! when doing a ribbon bead I genuinely find that the gear fills up the space

Yeh look up egger p5 online OP. Looks like it has been used with right glue aswell. There are 2 types 1 with film as said above but both are waterproof. Give it a good scrape down now. Run your planer or sand any joints which you feel are protruding excessively. I'd of thought it will be ok.

Oh just seen 4 months!

Looks like egger protect to me? your flooring isn't sagging it's your joints swelling. Sand back before carpeting if worried about feeling thru. This egger is garunteed weather proof for about 4 weeks