Oz07

Whats the way to fix garden wire to wooden posts to grow a climber up? Posts are every 6ft with a run of around 11m. I want horizontal wires at around 150mm centres I thought vine eyes at each end and staples on the 6 or so intermediate posts. How do i tension the wire or keep it taught while putting it up? Any tips so I don't make a mess of it...

As in out the side underground re your drains? I take it your groundwork people are doing this?

Yes I would of thought 100mm just where the doors are is no major. With regards to cutting a channel into eps is this done with hand saw. Also where is the shuttering added and what does it achieve in @TerryE solution? Any sketches? edit. Think I understand the shuttering lowers the frame Cill below ffl to help with part m

There you go a custom calc well done

My understanding is double eps =pir so rough and ready you'll have 360mm eps. Work your figures on online calc based on that. Sure someone will give you a more precise answer though!

I think the point of permeable paving is that unless it's heavy rain the paving shouldn't be directing the run off anywhere. Therefore the rain should fall where it has always fallen and shouldn't pose any extra risk to your foundations. Obviously it makes sense to put a channel in for surge capacity though.

Boarders are rough. They're too used to being on a price and having to throw them up. Did any of you have to buy a special waster adapter with those frames. The last one I bought didn't come with some kind of adapter I needed as waste was something like 80mm. Ended up ordering one of gerberit from Germany or somewhere on continent.

Look like they're enjoying the inset valley boards! Bit of a pain that job.

That's crap if your loo isn't going to cover that hole. Cut PB off as high as tiling allows (hopefully to the nogs) and replace with ply or backer board with better sized holes. Ply prob be better in this scenario.

Typo. It's amazingly -158°C. The entropy of a crystalline structure is a lot lower than the liquid phase which is why converting from one to t'other soaks so much heat. And this is also why the specific heat of ice is a pretty much half that of water. This effect is also why steam is so dangerous. If it condenses into water on your skin it chucks a lot of heat and causes serious scalding. still don't get it completely! anyway so once your out of power your out of hot water? Do you have any form of backup? How long do these take to charge and can you use them at any amount of charge?

How much work are you doing on your house? Is bco involved upto now? Put the 33" door on wc if you have/want to but you don't have to swap all the doors leading to

God I can't even grasp all that water phase malarkey even when dumbed down. They do sound good thought. What happens when you run out of the 10 kw and want a shower? Can the sunamp heat on demand? i know you pointed out gas as being dear but my last connection was below 200. It's subsidised

Down to around 1200 for labour. Not overly cheap but who wants cheap. If he's done work there before and is neat give him the job.

I use tent pegs for the clayboard. Just watch it as conny rises up past the bottom. Sometimes use a bit of timber to keep it tight against trench wall until the conny is holding it back. Depends how rough or good machine driver has been

Just be frank. Say you may not be able to give him the whole project after planning and you would want to own the copyright. Not quite sure how it works might be a grey area but as long as you've discussed it.

Done before myself. Horses for courses remember. Some are good at putting schemes together and getting planning. Others are more technical. Make sure no copyright issues.

Think it's more to do with load bearing capacity. I always use pb and tank with ceramics

Never had a bco check this.

Just on the gas I thought. Cant travel thru water pipework of interrupted by plaggy?

Jeremy I slagged off plumbers for zip tying pipes but had interesting convo with a new build plumber last year. He says 1st fix work is inspected and it's how they win pride in the job awards. They use metal noggins which clip out to joist centres, always put the matting stuff between pipes and metal. Then use colour coded zip ties. I can't remember the full ins and outs but the way he explained made it seem a rational and near way of doing things. Not a bodge like I thought! agree with general consensus about de skilliing though but it's happening to every trade. Look at underground drainage!

I did look upthread but it didn't really explain the clever fixing. Obviously that neat little bracket just fixes through into your nogs or cls? whos the supplier. I'd have a set.

Great looking set of stairs but how do they work?! Must be some pretty clever fixings into that osb! Even then I think I would want the fixing into the noggin to be sure.

The only way you could come unstuck with the addition of b&b is it could end up pushing ffl up if you've taken your trench fill too high. Also it could have paid to have spine walls if you'd have known beforehand. Could be the difference between needing a machine to move beams and being able to do it with few lads. Also again a longer beam may be 9" instead of 6"

3.6 max at Howdens from memory. Standard lengths 3m certain ranges 3.6. Depending on joint gives you 4.2

15mm = no need for perimeter and board end dogs on NHBC last I heard... So you save there too *nogs