Barney12

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Barney12 last won the day on September 9 2019

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About Barney12

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  1. I drew what I wanted and the kitchen fitter made it from standard kitchen drawers/cupboards and panels. My original plan was to make a stud frame/wall, clad with plasterboard and skim which would have been equally effective,
  2. Yep and it works fantastically. Zero risk of it toppling out with a very simple clamp bar to the feet.
  3. Wago's.....Oooooh for some reason I find a huge desire to collect them and keep them neatly stored in compartments. They have the same allure as stationary. I think I better stop typing. 😲😀😭
  4. Thanks for the input guys. I've gone for 160mm on the doors. 224mm on the 600mm drawers and 354mm on the 900 drawers.
  5. I'm bother I'm procrastinating again....... So I've just designed a kitchen on DIY-Kitchens. Its a shaker style but with a modern presentation. The decision is to go with bar style handles but you have to select your own length for cabinet doors and drawers. I asked them to say whats the "standard" and they said "its personal choice but keep the handle 100mm from the ends of the drawers"............no don't give me such tough decisions! So far I've selected: 160mm for doors and 224 for drawers: All the units are "hi-line" and there are only two drawer units: a 600mm 4 drawer unit: and a 900mm pan drawer: Should the bar handles perhaps be longer on the pan drawers? Any other views? Help!
  6. Alas I have instances of both. However, I don't want to get into the specifics on this thread.
  7. I didn't think FENSA covered any install in a "new build" property?
  8. So my window saga continues. In short; (and I am keeping this deliberately vague so please don't ask me to expand in an open forum) They leak. The leaks are damaging my internal fixtures and fittings. The installer has been unable to fix. The installer is being "challenging". I'm well and truly fed up. I feel I've reached the end of the "sensible negotiation" road. So I guess that means things are going to get "formal". This leads to the basis of this topic and in the spirit of the forum feel it might be of benefit to others down the line; What is the best way to obtain a second opinion? Especially considering such an opinion may form part of a formal claim? I'm no slouch, commercially minded and technically reasonably proficient and reckon I'd have a pretty good stab at putting together a claim. But, I'm not an "industry expert" or "experienced" in the supply and fitting of windows so potentially could be argued as not best placed to provide a genuine third party opinion. Any thoughts, insights or experience out there? TIA
  9. Ours was MOT1 followed by sharp sand. We used a powered roller to compact the MOT1 to the required specification. The MBC guys did the sand binding layer with nothing more than a few bits of baton to get it level.
  10. Could be crud but equally the cartridge might have failed. No. 5. here. https://blancotapspares.co.uk/blanco-culina-s-mini-chrome.html
  11. I’ve had one of these for years. Really clever little jig and very accurate. Joint Genie Professional 8mm Dowelling tool for precision jointing of furniture, diy projects, carpentry, garden furniture, kitchen fitting. Ideal for all woodworking needs where strong, precise jointing is required simple and easy to use dowel jig. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0034IA9YW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wqAeEb9WH80H2
  12. Another vote for leaving it on site. You are likely to cause way more environmental impact by removing it from site. The key factor is finding a sensible (and most likely smaller and local) ground works contractor who is going to be sensible. If you use a big firm you’ll likely get a machine operator who just ticks the boxes and a contracts manager who’s job it is to maximise the price on the job. I’m not ignoring the risks of asbestos but as others have said if it’s sheeting encased within concrete then the risks are incredibly minimal. All H&S starts with a risk assessment and the method statement follows with actions that are practicable.
  13. Large amount of guess work going on but I would imagine (hope)..... ASHP heating the water cylinder (thermal store?) in the low 40’s for max COP. Cylinder possibly acting as buffer for UFH. Cylinder passing pre-heated water to Sunamp for DHW delivery. (Sunamp being charged by solar where available).