Oz07

I wouldn't bother trying to bring it back into the house. Watering the garden though yeh

Yeh third round for hip

Isn't the whole point of b&b that the ground inside can move and heave? I've never been a fan of long runs underneath beams for this reason. I think it would be preferable to dig a trench filled with pea gravel allowing a big of movement without upsetting the falls.

To be fair this scenario is still cold roof as far as venting is concerned isn't it. I.e. The insulation will be between and below rafters meaning you will need ventilation to stop condensation on timbers. A true warm roof would have insulation above rafters and no condensation risk. thats my understanding anyway...

Because the big bad BCO says so! I dunno it's just standard

Can it be in the pub for 3? Bet it can't hold its ale

sorry I'm wrong that is also cold roof what I described but utilising roofspace

Think you are getting confused here OP. Sound to me like you're putting on a warm roof if insulation is to be between rafters. You will have to leave a 50mm gap not 10mm gap from insulation to the outside face of the rafter. Membrane to droop approx 10mm as you say. You leave the membrane short at the ridge by 30mm because you have a ventilated, dry fix ridge. The air comes into the roof at fascia level and exits at ridge level.

Some suppliers will offer pump and conc. save the vat and also no risk of paying for pump if the gear is no good

If you put a batten or perhaps 2 battens on top each other (if needed) at the very bottom of your rafters it should give your tile enough kick as if it's sitting on another tile then you can leave fascia till roof is done

Bt normally drop off a whole roll of about one million metres with 2 lengths of duct. +1 to above. I nearly had a heart attack when I seen the 60 odd mm cable they had to pull thru a 4" duct I laid!

Are you doing this yourself? Personally I'd swallow the cost of a roofer. See if you can find a good one on day work and labour to him. There's a lot of tips and tricks they know and I doubt you'll find all the answers here! Also they've got all the right kit which will come within their rate - less consumables. Not saying this to sound rude, it's just what I'd do! Goes against ethos of forum I suppose!

1" to 2" off studwork. 2" if blockwork and dot and dab. Could get technical and space off the amount of a bracket. If so just buy a few and measure

Any of that work going near me? i have a gce in bullshi......

Doesn't look like a ridge beam to me

Didn't fancy fixing ceiling joists first or are the raised?

Cant see why it's been specced up. Does se usually design residential drainage strategy? Depends on drain depth I suppose but good groundworks contractor will put you right

Springvale?

Don't want a boundary box with gas if you can avoid. The governor after the meter restricts the flow or pressure I believe which means big pipe size to appliances if far away (could be wrong here @Nickfromwales). Also that flexible gas pipe costs a fortune! Far better to get it as close to house and appliances as poss using the 41m or so that national grid provide at subsidised rate.

Not quite the right profile I think it's more "niagra ogee" if that is a thing. Thanks though hopefully that website has the right product

No ogee both sides. One pvc one cast. I might be being thick but I can't find anything. I can sense a bodge coming on with some pvc ogee sealed between the two internally with some ludicrously expensive sealant?!

Is there a connection/ adapter on the market that does ogee cast to pvc? I couldn't find one with google. Friend bought a house. Standard problem seen it a million times. Her gutter replaced, not connected to next doors as was previously, next doors now filling, overflowing at low end, running down brickwork causing damp. Thanks

Buy the gear ready mixed. Be cheaper!

I'd have said pond too. 4/5m square and deep enough for the 10000. Sure their pumps pumps can handle pond water

I would have said mondeo or Saab too going on rear lights