Russell griffiths

Spray foam installed is very expensive, with other types of insulation you can install yourself so save on the labour. Look at a deeper frame so you can use more of a cheaper form of insulation. Start building as soon as you can you will never save enough to match rising costs.

Why put it in the bottom, it will always be under water, fitting it at the high water mark keeps it up out of the water a lot of the time.

Take some tablets to keep calm. They are the worst organisation I have dealt with.

Starting this back up. I have a couple of issues raised this morning when the gas man turned up to look at sticking in my lpg pipework. The first one is the distance vertically to a combustible material, my house is a bungalow and he was concerned about the height from the top of cylinders to the soffit and facia board, my soffit is timber, I cannot find any drawings that say anything about the actual fabric of the building is more about openings. Please see pic. Any thoughts @ProDave

Morning does anybody know a number to contact bt connections dept on, we are trying to get a line connected and have had the job cancelled 3 times. Every time I ring up I have to go through all the different departments to get to talk to someone, so far I have been on hold for over 5hours with 3 different phone calls. Getting pissed off does not even come close.

You don’t need to increase the size of the roof joists you counter batten on the inside to provide more depth. Look up ISOVER. Insulation for some ideas. Are you happy the roof roof is in good shape before you do this.

What part of London. If you get that built for under £400,000 I will be very surprised.

Why should a contractor take ANY risk, it’s your project, all he wants to do is earn a wage and go home. You want to build your dream but let somebody else take the risk. He could do it another work out how many days and put 25% on top for risk, then put 20% on top of all materials. This is what I would do. Price it as as high as I could get away with, he probably is doing you a favour.

How high has your brickwork been taken, the shallower the facia the more bricks on show, have they come up high enough. Your facia needs to project up the correct amount to provide seating for the first row of slates.

Have you sized the unit, when you first said 3-4 circuits I thought that’s doable, but then you spoilt it by saying 500mm cupboard. Get the drawings for the manifold, but make sure you have all the blending valve measurements as well. I personally would look for a better solution. It will certainly be a hot cupboard.

Reading Jeremy’s thoughts on his Tesla confirms it won’t be on my shopping list.

That sounds like a silly way to do it. Why would the speaker wires not run in the wall and come up under the window board, through a rubber gromit and into the speaker, I see no reason to drill the window at all. In my last sat place I had 4 high level speakers mounted in book shelves, all wires hidden behind the shelving and the speakers looked like a wide book.

Keep quite. Just get it done, if asked just act innocent.

But you have 136m 113m is definitely not spacious.

Did you get the hint. ?

113m is small, retirement home, not family home. Depends what you want. We have 180m internally, 3 beds nothing is overly large.

What is the ceiling height? How much height can you afford to lose ?

Look at some posts by @SeanDean he’s been looking at doing the same sort of thing and upgraded his drawings massively from his first design.

Going to double board walls and ceiling with pink. Sod the money I’ve got used to eating beans on toast every night ?

It depends on what you are trying to achieve, that drawing can be improved in many ways. Your architect is a bit out of date.

Who on earth would go to all that trouble and not rip out that shonky kitchen.

Do not consider getting them unpainted at the very least you want them primed and undercoated, the work involved in applying 4-5 coats of paint to a sash window is immense. All your savings in driving to god knows where will be wasted after you have spent 6-7-8 weeks painting them. If you you can save £200 per window fitting them then that’s what y our need to save money. Piss poor preparation and priming will lead to you having to repaint them in a few years time. Fitting them is a a piece of cake, and you will make a better job of sealing them than the monkeys the window company will send around. The 100kg one is a two man lift anything around 50kg you can do on your own. Just get a friend around around for an hour and lift the heavy ones into the holes, secure in place with a batten screwed to the inside overnight and level and fit correctly the next day. You will need a pair of glass suckers and some pump up wedges to level the windows. If you have multiple windows in one room a laser level and tape will get all the windows windows the same height. Read up on the regs regarding the correct glass for the location and fire escape sizes.

100mm floor insulation is just above building regs, it needs to be more.

You may also have point loads from a post carrying a beam that requires different foundations.

What’s misleading @SimonD its clear from where im sitting, you can chuck a sheet of 9mm osb on the frame fixed with a dozen nails, or you fit it correctly with a nailing schedule detailing the amount of nails per sheet. Its like lots of stuff you can work to a minimum standard, or do the job better to a better standard. Sheathing board, racking board totally different things, you can install racking boards at corners and not fully sheath the wall, if a frame is designed to not have sheathing boards on its outer skin you still need to supply racking support.