Russell griffiths

If I was to go timberframe again I would look at a similar design to what MBC do with a twin wall system, or I would use i joists as studs just to get more depth for insulation. Look up a company called cullen timberframe design, that’s who I would look at to get the design done.

Have you thought of moving, if you added £100,000 to your current house price what could you buy, could you go a rung up the ladder, semidetached better road. You will spend £100,000 in the blink of an eye doing that work.

You cut the blocks to fit whatever you want. A bloke by me designed his house to fit block sizes, all windows exactly block sizes, no cutting and no wastage. sounds easy but a bit restrictive.

You can certainly use them with a porous bedding under them but not on those plastic things. ??????✊✊??

Is there an echo in here.

Oh god just stop. Put them on Facebook and get the right thing, by the time you’ve faffed about ( I changed my original wording to save @PeterW having to ) you will have cost yourself more than you saved. Just dont FFS.

I think this all needs a rethink, if you are restricted on height you need a concrete slab type foundation to get it low.

You should really have the hold down straps specified in your roof design, it should show length of strap and distance apart, it would also detail any restraint straps for other roofing members. Should be on the roof drawing that went to building control.

So I would look at this differently and do the lot in EPS buy it in bulk and save a fortune on PIR prices. Sell the pir or use it in the roof. Go to an eps manufacturer dont buy it from a re seller, they will cut it to any thickness you want so you can tweak your finished floor height.

Concrete is cheap blocks good on full load dont buy reinforcement in those small sheets, more cost effective in larger sheets dont buy 150mm kingspan, use two sheets of 75mm, 150mm is a pain in the arse to cut and fit with 75mm you can stagger the joins and do a better job. 75mm sheets are about £22.

I don’t think you can, but I’m no expert. We have a room that is going to be my wife’s sewing room, no need for another bedroom we already have two spare guest rooms. But building control have made us install fire escape windows, just in case someone puts a bed in there.

Your paving is already too high, it should be 150mm below the damp proof course. You need to keep the gravel to lesson water bounce going above the dpc. Don’t fill it in with cement.

Concrete in some metal rings so you can strap down the mobile home to stop it blowing over.

Careful measurements. You will need to know the exact floor finish, what this floor finish is fixed down with etc etc, you then mark FFL on the wall and fit doors to match that. Easier to do if your tiling as you can alter adhesive under tiles a little bit. Also better to be low with the screed as it’s easy to bring the screed up 3-4mm with a floor leveller than it is if you are too high. So I would side with caution and go 4-5mm low and allow for a few mm of wiggle room.

I thought of this a couple of years ago and Jeremy Harris ran some numbers and said it wasn’t a problem, as the ground the piles are in isn’t actually that cold as it’s all under the eps and the piles are surrounded in soil. Its a bit like why does your water main not freeze underground, it’s actually not cold down there, it’s cold bridges coming from above ground that are more a problem.

Just think if you don’t use a raft you are definitely piling anyway. So might as well start looking into them.

Have you chosen your windows yet, I would look at some pdf files of the windows to look at the section on drainage and cill installation.

you can pile under an insulated raft. Theres a few on here who have done it.

Now you just need to move that bloody heavy door.

@WWilts I think the confusion is your drawing wasn’t clear, it looks like you have just drawn orange lines and not stopped at the walls. If you mark it up with rodding eyes on the end then that looks like a much better idea. Has your architect done you drawings with layers that that can be removed, that way you can have a drainage plan without all the other junk clouding peoples view.

That’s good, they won’t be cheap.

I don’t think quality and price are two things you can associate with each other.

Wait for someone to ask before you throw yourself under the bus.

@Adsibob it was pointed out to me that you need to look at frame height in relation to the push plate in relation to tile height. So it would be wrong to have half height tiles in a bathroom and the flush plate was half on and half of the tiles. More things to think about.

Not fitted the tiles yet, but lots of American garages have them, I’m definitely looking at the tough polypropylene type not the foam ones.