Russell griffiths

Drop the thickness to 100mm of c35 concrete on the mesh he suggests. Unless you are going to park a boeing 747 in there. This is standard spec for an insulated raft for the main house, obviously thicker at the edges to take wall loads, but thicker than 100 is not needed to park a car on. You are maintaining a drop in height from house to garage I presume. Just done mine, 100mm concrete with mesh, self levelling compound, interlocking plastic/ rubber floor tiles, no ufh. You need to forget screed and think concrete.

Yes like this, have it all folded up neatly then take it to get it welded. If it’s too much agro to get somebody out.

I like the wooden box they made to hide the pipework.

Who did the stepped flashing, that bloke should know the answer it looks nice and tidy. I think that junction will be impossible without a bit of welding. I take it your osb box box will be extending up under the slates.

Ok cool, just check it comes under new build and not renovation or conversion.

@Tim2021 I’m a bit confused as to why you are wanting to involve building control, and what your thoughts are with the vat. Why would building control be interested in a garden wall, unless it is on the boundary and likely to fall on a passing pedestrian. If you are trying to get building control involved to get the vat back then what vat do you think you can claim. If your build is a renovation then I believe your vat is rated at 5% I could well be wrong, in which case your talking £50 on a £1000 wall. Is this worth the agro of involving bc. ?‍♂️

No I meant with a camera ??

Pictures.

So @PeterW what’s been the problem with the silo stuff.

What’s all the problems the mass builders are having with mortar joints all falling out. Was it just a bad batch or are they specifically getting weaker mix to save money.

@Dunny1234, you need to stick to your roof manufacturers approved method if you want a warranty. As to which is best, that’s up to you to decide. You need to do your own research and pick which you think is best. Every manufacturer will say his is the best.

Apart from design costs I think build cost difference will be so small it’s not worth worrying about. I would build the second option, but I would also do the same with the other corner that is indented.

We do method B.

Griggs timber Gloucestershire. I went back and fourth altering things and it was never a problem. My joists where too long for a ridged truck so neede an artic, I told them I could not get an artic on site, so they borrowed a longer ridged and delivered them. Perfect service.

Your dimensions of steel will be in the BAR BENDING SCHEDULE this is produced by the engineer, you send it to the steel stockholders and they produce a quote for you. £7-9 grand I would just pay it, the time you pay for all the separate elements you will be lucky to save £1500 for weeks of agro. Foundations is not a place for you for you to try and make savings. Fitting plasterboard, door linings doors, skirting and painting are the things you can do unless you have done it before. now im all for everyone having a go, I did all my own steel work and ringbeam and saved £5000 but I’ve been involved in the building game for nearly 40 years. What about drainage, do you have drainage going under the raft?

Look at the YouTube vids of it. But make sure you are happy your roof is vented correctly.

But how do you take the blender out if you have a full pipe. I think I would fit a 40mm full bore gate valve so I could fully isolate the vertical run.

1m gap 5m house 1m gap. Does it have planning.

Sensible question now. If your poo soup is rising vertically, do you have a one way valve or something just after the poo blender. If the poo blender suddenly stopped, would you not have a 2.5m high pipe full of poo soup so you cannot disconnect the blender.

Sitting here bored tonight I thought I would do some research for you @pocster after a couple of hours of thought I think I have sorted out your problem. I did consult @Nickfromwales on his views but he was a bit drunk, so not much help. Hope this is of help, if not pease contact customer service on 1-800 couldn’t give a shit dot com. Your welcome.

Griggs timber, Gloucestershire.

I haven’t used them but I did get a quote of pasquil and it was 25% dearer than the company I used.

I don’t think the width is as important as the depth, it’s the depth of a beam that provides most of the strength. I have a steel beam holding up my roof roof that is something like 147mm wide but 450mm deep.

1200gauge, what’s that for ? have you got a dpm under the insulation? the membrane that goes on top is just very thin polythene it’s not a dpm buy the thinnest clear polythene, then you can see your kingspan as you staple it, avoids trying to put a staple in a join and them pulling out. As @ADLIan said what does it say on kingspan site. I would try try to do two layers not one then you can stagger joins.

My personal opinion is you have no chance whatsoever. Of getting that at the back. Why not build the workshop at the side, two beds above it and kitchen diner around the back. Its a fairly standard thing, so planners are familiar with it, ask for something rather unconventional and you make them twitch and start looking at reasons to refuse. Has anybody done this rear rear extension near you.