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Russell griffiths

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Everything posted by Russell griffiths

  1. Russell griffiths
    Do not consider getting them unpainted at the very least you want them primed and undercoated, the work involved in applying 4-5 coats of paint to a sash window is immense. All your savings in driving to god knows where will be wasted after you have spent 6-7-8 weeks painting them. If you you can save £200 per window fitting them then that’s what y our need to save money. Piss poor preparation and priming will lead to you having to repaint them in a few years time. Fitting them is a a piece of cake, and you will make a better job of sealing them than the monkeys the window company will send around. The 100kg one is a two man lift anything around 50kg you can do on your own. Just get a friend around around for an hour and lift the heavy ones into the holes, secure in place with a batten screwed to the inside overnight and level and fit correctly the next day. You will need a pair of glass suckers and some pump up wedges to level the windows. If you have multiple windows in one room a laser level and tape will get all the windows windows the same height. Read up on the regs regarding the correct glass for the location and fire escape sizes.
  2. Russell griffiths
    100mm floor insulation is just above building regs, it needs to be more.
  3. Russell griffiths
    You may also have point loads from a post carrying a beam that requires different foundations.
  4. Russell griffiths
    What’s misleading @SimonD its clear from where im sitting, you can chuck a sheet of 9mm osb on the frame fixed with a dozen nails, or you fit it correctly with a nailing schedule detailing the amount of nails per sheet. Its like lots of stuff you can work to a minimum standard, or do the job better to a better standard. Sheathing board, racking board totally different things, you can install racking boards at corners and not fully sheath the wall, if a frame is designed to not have sheathing boards on its outer skin you still need to supply racking support.
  5. Russell griffiths
    Compac foam do a system fo fixing windows into EWI it consists of very rigid insulation that carries the window load. Charlie Luxton used a fibreglass angle section that was screwed to his framing that projected out into the EWI, the window then sat on this angle and the insulation butted up to it completely hiding it.
  6. Russell griffiths
    Who is the most disorganised organisation you have had to deal with. For me it’s BT, which I think should stand for bloody terrible. Trying to get my old phone line re connected, and had my job cancelled 3 times due to them not having the correct address.
  7. Russell griffiths
    This method is perfectly adequate, however your relying on your sheathing board transferring the resistance to other parts of the frame. With a tie that is fixed to a stud it uses the stud to hold the frame down, not just the sole plate. Really down to the engineer designing it and what loads are on it and wind loading. The last stick frame I did was in a cyclonic area so I tend to be a bit belt n braces.
  8. Russell griffiths
    This is what I have used in the past, however they can be overkill for the uk market, it depends on your wind leadings and other stuff.
  9. Russell griffiths
    Look up Simpson tie down straps.
  10. Russell griffiths
    Sheathing boards cover the frame. A racking board is sort of the same but has a more important role it provides the racking strength to stop the building folding like a pack of cards. So a sheathing board might just cover up your frame. But a racking board covers the frame but also adds structural stiffness, racking boards should have a fixing schedule it’s normally a nailing schedule so one 50mm ringshank nail will be provided every 150mm apart on all studs and sole plates and top plates. Some walls that need need a lot of added stiffness might have racking both sides. If I was building any frame I would fully board both sides.
  11. Russell griffiths
    There is a 100% sure fire method to not cut a finger off. Fit the grinder with the side mounted handle. One hand on the trigger one on the side handle, so two hands both in use out of the way. The thing that stops you cutting your self is focus and having your mind on the job. Thinking of bacon sandwiches or that bird that just walked past is likely to end up with a didget missing.
  12. Russell griffiths
    Gloves not needed, unless your silly enough to put it on your hand. What you do want are goggles and ear defenders.
  13. Russell griffiths
    here you go
  14. Russell griffiths
    I think I would look at some 150x75 treated timber and build a subfloor, hold this off the ground with 100x100 treated posts at corners and intermediate areas. 250 deep holes and a bucket full of concrete around every post. Lay a dpc on top of bearers and drop sips on and screw down. TBH there’s a thousand ways to do it. I would use ground screws as it involves vo digging and no concrete, just find them cheaper. Just done a quick google your ground screws will cost you £350. If you put them at 1200 centres.
  15. Russell griffiths
    You can get a strap that does all of those jobs in one. Think it’s made by CULLUN timber connectors, it’s basically a strap with a foot on it with a hole in it, so it nails to the stud, pushes down onto the sole plate and bolts through to the underlying blockwork. With regards spacing this is normally dictated by your racking board layout, so position is at the start and finish of racking boards. So up the first stud then on the one 1200 away. But that all needs someone far cleverer than me to decide.
  16. Russell griffiths
    I don’t think you have allowed enough for your tiles, I’ve allowed 25mm overall for a 10mm tile. That’s with matting.
  17. Russell griffiths
    Why not, if the load above is the same as all the other studs why double them up. Obviously check with your structural engineer designer.
  18. Russell griffiths
    No nothing, it’s meant to go on top of hardcore to take out the sharp pointy bits, not needed on a concrete slab.
  19. Russell griffiths
    What’s the 4 studs for, do they carry a point load, if not I see no reason for them.
  20. Russell griffiths
    You set the roof out so you end up with an even cut at both ends, then you cut the first sheet longways and re bend the upstand, do the rest of the roof and if you lucky when you get to the far end you have the same size cut, cut this and again re fold the edge.
  21. Russell griffiths
    What’s the sand blinding for, that’s not needed.
  22. Russell griffiths
    Use the bricks no problem, as long as you keep your courses level so ties work.
  23. Russell griffiths
    If it’s on strip footings, I would look at knocking all internal walls out and form an insulated raft inside the face brickwork the only part I would keep would be the footings and face brickwork. But it does depend on what you paid for it and if you have any height restrictions. Your neighbours version is woefully inadequate.
  24. Russell griffiths
    I’ve put in many thousands of screws and I don’t have one, in fact I sold it as the noise it made was horrible.
  25. Russell griffiths
    Why’s that???
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