Russell griffiths

Multi tool, tungsten blade.

Have you taken the packer out and seen if you can pull the truss down. TBH your only talking 2mm it won’t matter if it’s up or down.

Have you put a straight edge on the trusses, you might find it is bowed up high when you need to pull it down, do that first before you pack it up too high.

Not necessarily, I have a screed laid on top of eps insulation. It depends what is supporting the insulation. If the insulation is on top of compacted hardcore then I would use concrete with mesh reinforcement. If the insulation is over a concrete slab or block n beam then a screed. Depends what is suppling the strength and support. @Tetrarch what is this insulation going down on to.

I did a Reno on a 1980s built timberframe, I found the easiest thing to do was just rip out every piece of plasterboard, all ceilings all walls, no messing about, it’s easier to move around internal walls and easier to run all new electrical and plumbing. Just pull the lot out, no point in trying to join on to old stuff or patching walls.

New battens wouldn’t correct the bow in the roof, your roof would have settled over time, but the section between you and the neighbours wouldn’t droop as the party wall is there. TBH those tiles are very unforgiving for cutting around things like windows, it is always hard to make them look good, always looks a bit clunky.

This will be really interesting to see what the frame looks like after that length of time, depending on how the sole plate was fitted to the foundations. Lots of pictures please when you start gutting it.

Why not screw another bit of timber along the edge, bit of 2x2 screwed on to protect edge as you lift.

That’s how I would do it, glue them all together while on the flat, batten and clad then get 3 mates around and stand it up. Have props ready. And nails and a hammer.

If you want to reduce cost you will need to add a column to the corner with the overhang, trying to do that as a cantilever will be costly.

IMHO all aircrete is rubbish, as I said I wouldn’t use them if they where free, beer or no beer.

I wouldn’t use 3.6n aircrete if they where free and came with a pack of beers. 7.5 n lightweight aggregate blocks or called aglights.

No it won’t make a hint of difference you can cover it in gold bars and it will still squeak if the joists are moving. You really need to locate the movement.

No. Life is too short it’s not a bloody Chippendale.

You definitely need help.

Don’t use him, simple.

I use it all the time just for inspiration, probably look at it twice a week.

He meant trap. Not tap.

Did you use the correct amount of water ? What was the temperature when poured and overnight, it should be 5 degrees and not dropping whilst curing. The stuff i used set very hard overnight, but was only 10mm thick.

How are you going to prevent water bouncing up onto your external finish. The 150mm upstanding from ground level to external finishes has been around for years, and it works. In your part of the world I really think this is something to reconsider. You can have the front entry entry level but why the whole house. Definitely something I would re evaluate, you will get problems with snow blowing up and piling against your external finish.

Whats your budget to do this, I would think the disruption and making good of areas cut out to install it could seriously effect your view on putting it in. @MJNewton how much do you think you spent on the system and the making good afterwards.

As nod said, why are you not taking the whole roof off and re new it all.

It works if done correctly, boards have to be fitted with full strips of adhesive, not dabs, all back boxes need fully sealing, any penetrations sealed. Its all about getting the details right.

I thought you wanted to improve the airtightness not destroy it.

I know this was already discussed, but why the trench if you have root problems. A simple raft is what you need. Buy some scaffolding boards as shuttering, weekends work and it will be in.