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Found 8 results

  1. I have an old lead water pipe which I am looking to replace with MDPE. My supplier (Southern Water) state: "If you have lead pipes and you decide to replace these, we will also replace our part of the pipe that connects your pipe to our main (known as the communication pipe) free of charge if this is also lead" My part of this is to bring the MDPE to the boundary which in this case is the pavement. The question is could I bring the pipe to the gate shown in the image below by the blue arrow rather than use the existing shown by the red arrow? Would the water supplier then trench to the street stop cock? Clearly this assumes a trench dug to the correct depth etc. We're renovating the property and in future would make more sense to enter at this point as we are moving the boiler to the building on the right side of the gate.
  2. Hi guys, Doing my extension and the foundations are in as are the blocks upto floor level. Hoping to get the slab done next week. Im planning to run two lengths of 25mm mdpe blue pipe through the hardcore that goes under the slab and out through a gap in the blockwork. One will be a conduit for running an electric cable out in the future so we can have power in the garden. This will come up by the fuse box. The other is to allow a water supply to the garden. This will.be connected in just after the stop cock. Is there any problem going 15mm (main feed) 25mm (under the slab) 15mm (outside tap). Was just wondering if this sounds ok? Or if I'm missing anything? Thanks Paul
  3. We have an outside tap (temporary) situated not far from our boundary boxes. Our house 32mm MDPE supply is ready to connect. It can’t get to the boundary boxes (yet) as there is a caravan in the way. What advice please for connecting, potentially to this outside tap (a 15mm copper pipe)? And what should we lag the MDPE with - it’s going to probably be overground for these 5m all winter. Thanks
  4. Laying my water main - 32mm 100m coil. Got within 10m of the end of the trench and yep it kinks good and proper, looks knackered to me. Solutions greatly appreciated as I'm backfilling tomorrow! Is a join below ground a disaster waiting to happen? Many thanks in advance!
  5. Mulling over water ducting issue. Can't duct to the boundary because our caravan is in the way, so can only duct up to the caravan (which will mean running the duct under our garage - slab to be poured shortly). To cut a long story short, at 8pm tonight we decided to test a theory - join some MDPE pipe onto our existing (not being used anymore, but only shut off at the boundary so could be opened again) lead pipe which runs from the boundary under the caravan. So we exposed the lead pipe and cut it in half to measure it. This lead to MDPE joint will hopefully do as the water supply for the new house, at least until we move the caravan (after we have moved in) and dig a pit to replace the lead bit back to the boundary boxes. Our question is how to connect MDPE (assume 32mm) to the lead pipe (internal diameter measured at 3/4'', outside diameter measured at 26.5mm which we think might be 6lb pipe (1 3/64'' outside diameter)? What sort of coupling could we use? Can't find anything "standard" in the usual builders merchants (online, tonight). I wish I could post a photo but its too damn dark outside now.
  6. Just working, in the drizzle that is Whitstable today, on re routing the water from the meter to the utilities building. Just dug down to find the existing pipe and found it is lead going into 25mm MDPE. See pic My question is / are two fold. 1 can I just unscrew the connection to the blue pipe coming out of the meter and make my new connection or do I need to go bacl to the meter itself? Also I correct in assuming I can do this myself or are there regs I should be reading?
  7. In this 'renoextension' the original MDPE supply was 20mm which I had to pull out during structural works and now looking to pull back in. It's a private water supply coming in from landowner next door in 20mm MDPE (no chance to replace that all the way to source at the moment). Not noticed any issues with water pressure living in the static, but I recall reading somewhere on BH that it's probably best to opt for 22mm in the house itself (after stopcock) if there is a chance of low incoming pressure. The landowner next door rents out various commercial units units next door (so there is a potential for a drop in pressure but I haven’t noticed so far) so just want to insure myself against pressure issues. I need to get my UFH pressure tested soon, so just need a connection in the house again and may as well get it right from the very beginning. I was looking to go for 20mm MDPE to 22mm but options seemed very limited (though typically did find an option last night, typically here https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/mdpe-water-pipe-fittings/mdpe-to-universal-copper-adaptor/20mm-x-15/22mm/) I can either stick with the 20mm MDPE or would it be best to replace my incoming MDPE from the boundary with 25mm? Not sure what I'm going for in terms of UVC, boiler, TS etc etc but was reading that 20mm is a safer bet (for runs to bath at least), but that will be more questions in another post. TIA
  8. Hi, almost certainly a question for our resident eggspurt @Nickfromwales The picture below shows the connector to join the 32mm ground pipe to the 22mm internal pipwork. The brass is (I think) just one of those bog standard 1" tank connectors. But the male union thread on the other fitting is plastic. Whats the best method to join these? I'm concerned that too much PTFE tape/chord could cause the plastic thread to strip or crack. This joint is going to be buried in the wall so I need to be sure of a permanent connection. Ta muchly in advance.
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