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TryC

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  1. would the brace be the diagonal piece? These are the original doors, I am surprised that without the diagonal piece would 'drop' the door.
  2. i see! thanks for your advice. I will get onto an electrician tomorrow! About the plasterer - least this one didn't dot dab my ceiling this time ha ha!
  3. thanks @SimonD, yes! wow, i really love this forum, so many new thing I learn! a plank/ledge braced door - here is a pic of the door in question
  4. he overboard the ceiling and said that was the only way he could get around the ceiling rose (didn't know this was the name! learn something new every day!). Guessing he didn't want to remove the rose and fix it through the new plasterboard. Can the electrican sort it out with a new rose then?
  5. would you know what type of trade can do this? getting a joiner is like a 14 month wait or is there a cmpany that i can use, i just don't know what the proper search terms would be
  6. ideally, i would like the top part to be glass for viewing
  7. Hi All, So the plasterer wasn't able to put back the ceiling light and we bought a new one to be put in its place (as it was pretty old style - probably over 30 years). I had intended to keep it after plastering was complete, but since it wouldn't go back up and it was eventually thrown away in error, we got a new one. But I am not sure how to put this up - or is it best to get in an electrican? I had bought this from B&Q and reviews did say installation was pretty easy!
  8. @saveasteading, think you are spot on! I've re-visiting this project now since I cannot find a reliable bathroom installer. I found a structural engineer, and they have a ton of good reviews on google and we have him scheduled to come. I did also research for builders and asked the SE if he could recommend. He actually recommended one that I had found myself (one with a number of good reviews on Trust a trader), but it makes me feel a bit more comfortable since the SE recommended him too. Anyway, the builder informed me that it is likely a load bearing wall but the SE would confirm, (just so happends builder could come out before SE), anyway, he is quoting about £3k - which is pretty eye watering Currently, the wall to be removed, one the other side, has a old wooden cupboard attached to it, and along that is the sink with a battered cupboard under it (not sold wood, more like mdf or something). If the wall is removed, of course the attached wooden cupboad needs to go (I am assuming the builder will do this within his quote and not expect us to remove it) - or maybe if we do, it will save us some money (tho it is pretty sturdy!). My question, is, is it possible to get a tempoary kitchen sink in situ or continue to use the one we have now (which is not technically connected to the wooden cupboard attached to the wall). As there might be some wait for a joiner to come in to put in some worktops (need to find one/or there is a long wait list).
  9. we use virgin cable for now, but who is to say we won't go back to BT in the future, the little bt box is still there.
  10. Hi All! The ceiling has finally been overboarded and skimmed!! how is this (compared to the dot dab debacle!). In the last photo, the plasterer advised there was a bit of a deep hole there and he filled it in (with cement I think, because he filled the areas where the picture rails with cement prior to skimming), anyway, where I have circled, is the deep hole in question, is this still drying? as the rest of the room is essentially pink. It has been 2 weeks since it was done. Should I leave it to dry some more or is it ready to be sealed?
  11. Hi @ProDave, Is the below clearer? It is a BT line, so technically, it does not belong to us and we cannot remove it? Had it been skimmed into the wall, wouldn't it of left a bump in there?
  12. Hi All, I'm looking for some advice. We have a door that is due to be removed and we would like to re-use this door in its new location (so all our doors are still matching with the same wood). Although, it is probably easier to purchase a new door than trying to upcyle the one we have. Please excuse the look of it - this is the aftermath of removing the paint off of it, still needs a little tidy. Does anyone know if it is possible to add glass in this type of door - I have seen youtube videos of doors having glass put in them, but they are not panled like the ones we have. Why do it want to keep this door - because it is very good wood, probably better than the type you buy from the likes of b&q (it is original, old wood that came with house), and if i do replace the door with a new one, it would not match the rest of the doors in the house! Thanks.
  13. Hi All, All the walls have now been skimmed and the ceiling boarded and skimmed. Now we have a telephone line that used to sit on the picture rails and was hidden, but since we had the picture rails removed, we have the telephone line just dangling above the door way - apparently, we cannot cut it, even though it is not in use - but the wire is not long enough to go up and follow the lines into the corners of where the wall and ceiling meet. Any ideas on how to make this wire less of an eye sore please?
  14. Hello everybody, Wondering if I could get some advice. There is a hole in the floor within the house (ground floor), and it seems when the electrical cord/wire was decomissioned, they cut it and just left it hanging out of the floor (which they broke to get into said cord/wire) - and just left it broken. I was told to get the owner of the cord/wire to delay with it as British Gas said it was not theirs and hence could not touch it. When I finally found who owned the cord/wire, all they did was tuck the cord/wire into the broken parts of the flooring - told me to fill it in myself. Does anyone know what I need to get this filled in? can I do it myself or best to get someone professional in to do it. The floor is uneven at this point (there is a hole in the floor around the cord/wire). it isn't live, but there is another wire that is, which feeds into the electric box to the side. I asked the fella how best to deal with that to get the floor even, he just said, break the concrete up under that wire and tuck that wire into the floor as well and then fill in the hole - that it is OK to do that....is it? Any advice would be appreciated.
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