NeilScotland

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  1. hmm - i guess not. This is original builders wiring. They do seem a little less stringent here. Iโ€™d have at the very least expected them to be on a separate circuit /rcd on the main board too. But doesnโ€™t seem to be the case.
  2. Hi Peter, The wago I had was lever type - the cable was too thick. I'll measure properly. The problem is - the wago is perfect for the stranded wire but not for the solid wire. And Prob vice-versa..... I could just use conductor block - but I like the neatness and quality of Wago. Neil
  3. OK.. so here are some pics. - 1st pic is the main CU / board - 2nd pic - same but wider view - FYI - 3rd pic the switches for light in the shed (other line is for outdoor light) - 4th pic - this is the junction box where the supply that comes from the house goes into the shed (it's about 1m below the switch in pic above). - 5th pic - 'instructions' in Dutch. But has a diagram I've still to test which of these controls the shed. Can't do while Mrs is doing her work calls! - but I think 1 2 or 3 will control the power in the shed. thanks, Neil
  4. haha - I know...... I'm not sure if i can change it or not. I'm originally from there (and actually have an electrical testing question relating to my house in Scotland that I'll be posting soon! haha)......
  5. I'll take some pics. but we recently had the house extended - and I remember seeing the cable that runs under the garden to the shed (was done as part of the building of the house 12 years ago). It was a cable inside a PVC tubing (like a grey plumbing /drainage pipe). I should add, i'm in Amsterdam, their building practices here are a bit different. Neil
  6. Hi Nick, thanks for the reply. I couldn't actually see which circuit this belongs to - since there doesn't seem to be a separate circuit (oddly enough) for the Shed - So I think it belongs to one of the others. I'll do some trial and error to find out - and report back. The old light (fluorescent tube) was wired straight to the supply cable.... ๐Ÿ™„ thanks again for taking the time to respond, Neil
  7. OK - that was my thinking..... I think my current waggo's are maybe too small.... because the solid wire wasn't staying. thanks!
  8. Hi all, Sorry if I'm not using the right terminology - or if this should be in the lighting forum, I couldn't work out where it should be. I'm rewiring some lights in my shed - which already has a supply installed by the builders of the house. It has a basic tungsten light, and I'm replacing with two LED panels - which have transformers. I have done this with a block connector to test it out, but I'd like to know the correct practice to make this better /neater - preferably with a Wago connector or something (and then I'll put a little box in place to house this). - The supply comes in, L, N and Earth - it's a solid wire. circa 2.5mm (I'll check exactly). - Supply has an earth - but the transformers don't... is this ok? - The wire I'm taking to my transformer(s) is a stranded wire, circa 1.5mm. I'd like to take the supply, and then split it into two - and then have each light supplied from this - you can see my drawing below - hopefully make sense. Thanks for any help, Neil
  9. haha - we thought a lot about it, we have one oven just now (smaller) and it's enough.... and we don't clean one often enough, so we thought having two wasn't necessary. in retrospect - kind of wish we had. I think we can add it if we wish, and did consider it, but the heights are all wrong now.
  10. So... in the end I needed a proper saw, and even then it was so powerful it was chipping at the end of each cut. Luckily, on the side I didn't need. I don't think I will ever buy these tiles ever ever again!!! haha..... 100 x 100 x 1 porcelain. Nightmare - i'm sure easy for a pro, but this is only my 2nd time tiling. Most are now laid (had to lay a few before kitchen fitters came the following day). I also done all the cuts for the step (And laid one row). I leveled all tiles to the highest point on the step and used a self leveling cement to take up the difference - before I tile the step itself. And that's where I'm at now. Builders didn't leave such a level step and also some concrete was taken away when they done a repair job on the underfloor heating. Overall, happy with it - but don't think I ever want to use such large format tiles again.
  11. Thanks Pete - i reckon I've clocked up 10hrs on this! haha.........
  12. Hi All @Taff @wozza @Pete Picking this up again, only finally got my tiles on back order. And not many to spare - I started to do some practice cuts on my Ruby cutter with some off cuts (I will hire a 120cm 'Carat' branded manual cutter for the proper cuts)..... My practice cuts did not go well ๐Ÿ˜ž - It seemed that I could not get the cut started very well - and when I went for the snap, they didn't snap well.... I found I was either too light or too heavy (and the slider doesn't slide very well) Do you have any tips I can follow to avoid this happening? I found If I placed a little off-cut at the end - to start the cut on, this helped to get me started a bit..... See images below (ignore they are thin pieces - that was because I was using an old off cut). I have a selection of wheels available I was mainly using a 10mm one for these. Any help is greatly appreciated - I'm not confident at this point ๐Ÿ˜ž
  13. Thanks - what specs would you use for the concrete pads? neil
  14. I'm starting a decking project in the spring (Keen DIY'er) and so I'll have many questions to come... but, the first questions I have are about which type of structure to use. And are my spans ok? There is an absolute mountain of information out there about what is the best way to do this, it's quite over-whelming - but, from what I can see, there are two distinct differences in the base structure. And I'm not sure what is best for my own effort.... 1. Build a frame, put your joists in the frame, attach the frame to the support posts that you put in the ground. 2. Put supports in ground. Add some bearers. Place the joists on top of these bearers. (this requires more digging). Is there a right way or a wrong way of these options? I've drawn out a plan (Note: noggins to be added), based on all that I've seen - and it takes option 2 above. It's a hard wood deck and my decking boards will likely be 21-25mm (I will have them milled - was thinking 25mm). I'd appreciate any help on the best way forward and if the spans seem ok. I found this document to help: https://www.trada.co.uk/.../3809/design_a_deck_planning.pdf I was just going to get standard 2x6 for the sub-structure. (i'm in Amsterdam but the materials are largely similar to UK). thanks Neil