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Found 9 results

  1. I have an old lead water pipe which I am looking to replace with MDPE. My supplier (Southern Water) state: "If you have lead pipes and you decide to replace these, we will also replace our part of the pipe that connects your pipe to our main (known as the communication pipe) free of charge if this is also lead" My part of this is to bring the MDPE to the boundary which in this case is the pavement. The question is could I bring the pipe to the gate shown in the image below by the blue arrow rather than use the existing shown by the red arrow? Would the water supplier then trench to the street stop cock? Clearly this assumes a trench dug to the correct depth etc. We're renovating the property and in future would make more sense to enter at this point as we are moving the boiler to the building on the right side of the gate.
  2. Hi guys, Doing my extension and the foundations are in as are the blocks upto floor level. Hoping to get the slab done next week. Im planning to run two lengths of 25mm mdpe blue pipe through the hardcore that goes under the slab and out through a gap in the blockwork. One will be a conduit for running an electric cable out in the future so we can have power in the garden. This will come up by the fuse box. The other is to allow a water supply to the garden. This will.be connected in just after the stop cock. Is there any problem going 15mm (main feed) 25mm (under the slab) 15mm (outside tap). Was just wondering if this sounds ok? Or if I'm missing anything? Thanks Paul
  3. Hi just trying to decide if I should use 10mm Hep20 or 15mm Hep20 pipe to feed three radiators and four towel rails via a manifold. 10mm is much easier to run and turn etc. but when you look at the inside dia. compared to the 15mm especially with the insert in, the difference looks huge. Will it create too much resistance or be prone to noise and clogging. The runs will be circa 5-8 metres between manifold and rads. Would it be possible to mix the pipe dia on the same manifold. Have used 10mm pipe to the basins and 15mm to the kitchen sink on the potable runs. Finding the plumbing a little more confusing than anticipated!
  4. Sorry if the question has been asked before (I did do a quick search) but I'm really tired after a couple of hard days and Part H is confusing me. Can someone be kind enough to advise me as to what the minimum depth is for foul water pipes running along side the house and then across the garden to a sewage treatment plant is. I see information for fields and roads but not garden etc... I guess it may be different near the house from in open garden. If the regs don't set a minimum depth, then experience appreciated. There are some things you don't want to step in when walking in the garden and, without a dog, this could be the greatest risk.
  5. Hi Folks, Nearing the stage of starting and another question has popped into my head! So we will have a duel fuel rangemaster cooker in our kitchen (electric, gas hob), to which the gas will come from gas cylinders (47kg Propane). Now our cooker is located at the front of the house and the last thing we want is the cylinders outside at the front! What would be involved to get the gas pipe to the back of the house, this would be approximately 12m in distance. Would we have to incorporate a duct into the foundation slab to carry this pipe from the kitchen? If so i would hate to forget and be left with horrible cylinders at the front of the house! ?
  6. I have two orange waste pipes sticking out of the slab for the en-suite bathrooms. I have to put a solvent 110mm boss connector https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sp583g-short-boss-pipe-grey-110mm/17138?tc=HB7&ds_kid=92700048793290397&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt-WllOfz5wIVmK3tCh2 onto each pipe and was supposed to use gap filling cement but as per the thread title used normal solvent on one pipe (not concentrating) and gap filling cement on another. So my question is will it matter as both pipes seem to have adhered but I cannot test the joint as the drains are not finished, have no access to outside at the moment as I could fill the pipe up with water. I still have access to inside the pipe so could perhaps do something to the inside if it is deemed that the wrong solvent has been used. This joint will be inside a tiled wall when finished so need to get this right, may be stop daydreaming when doing important jobs!!TIA
  7. Been digging to find drainage from old bungalow so can connect into that rather than breaking another pipe into the manhole. Found this sewage pipe? What is it? Can we connect a modern plastic pipe 110 diameter to it? cut through it with a reciprocating saw. Slightly flexible and smells like bitumen? outer diameter 125mm
  8. .....I thought to myself, as I instructed my man to cut the excess tail off a coil of Wunda UFH pipe. He cut some more, the noise got much worse. What’s going on ?!? We hadn’t hooked it up yet so a leak was impossible.......and then I twigged. The good folk at Wunda now sell the coils of UFH pipe pressurised with compressed air, and when I say pressurised, I mean pressurised. If you cut straight through you’d better be holding both pieces as it’s like stabbing a car tire ( probably ). They must have it close to 6 or more bar guessing by just how much air came out of a 100m coil. I then noticed the pipe ends. They’ve basically got plastic plugs glued / crimped into each end to keep the pressure up and keep any crud out, and I assume this pre-pressurising benefits in a couple of ways. Wunda know the pipe is sound at dispatch, you know it’s sound when you get it, and if dopy gits with long screws or multi tools inadvertently damage the pipe after installation / floors down etc there will be an undeniable “whoosh” of compressed air to let them know. Can’t help thinking that would also be of benefit during Ufh at the slab stage too as the pipe is likely to be a bit less susceptible to compression perhaps. Folly, or first class. ?
  9. Has anyone had the issue of having to divert a gas main for the foundations and idea of costs? The contractor is 3/4 through the foundations and discovered a steel pipe. The initial inspection points to it being an old gas pipe that has since had plastic fed through it. We now await follow up inspection, then can apply for a quote to divert. We checked prior to building the location maps it looks like the network drawings are slightly out. It should be under a flagged footpath the same as all the other utilities, we can only think that many years ago it was decided lower cost to put under what was softer ground compared to taking up old flagstones. Disappointed that not only has worked stopped for an unknown period we will get hit with the extra costs to divert despite carrying out all relevant checks. Anyone ideas on pricing per metre or how the process works in terms of time would appreciate comments, online I can only find prices for meter diversions. ? I couldn't find any other information on this forum so think its another potential hidden pitfall to be aware of for future self-builders, we were grateful it wasn't damaged.
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