Russell griffiths

I wouldn’t worry about 100m area, I have 170m of standing seam into a 125mm wide deep aluminium gutter and it performs perfectly, it’s all about how many downspouts to get the water away, if you put one at each end you will have trouble, I have 4 outlets over 17m run of gutter. Its your sheet length that is the problem, as a join might be needed this is what gets tricky at 5 degrees. @KevinJ is your man to answer this.

@DragsterDriver. Do you have any form of planning in place? I had a house on site so was applying for a replacement dwelling, in the end with all the surveys it took 16months to get planning. When I had a topo done I told the surveyor I would be building that summer, he looked at me and chuckled and said you won’t stick a spade in the ground this year, 16months later. You might be really lucky, but just be prepared for how slow these council wallys are. If I had to do this again I would sell up as soon as I could to free up money and move into a mobile home, we have been selling a house in London to finish our place and it has taken over a year to sell, obviously Covid shit messed things up, but we could get another lockdown.

Yes, don’t fanny about, get a big bucket and a soft broom, soak the walls from the top down, proper soaking needed.

So forgetting about lunch, what are you going to do about materials what happens if halfway through the day he needs a fitting, will you go and get it or are you going to pay for him to sit in the traffic for half an hour to go to the merchants, if you are worried about a few quid for a lunch break what will you do if he’s a week over schedule. If hes good and you value him I would not be nitpicking about £20 here and there.

I’m not sure why you think there will be a hold up, you put your planning in to build a house, not the foundation design. Get a soil survey done now and get the foundation designs done now, then when you pass planning you are ready to go, 2 days to site strip and start setting out. I had my place demolished about 4 days after planning passed. Make sure you have the cil levy signed off so you can start.

As above. But this will not stop your walls being dusty, the parge coat will dry and as you rub against it will dust up and bits fall off, for the cost of 3-4 sheets of plasterboard why not just slap up a couple of sheets and chuck a coat of emulsion on them. Better finish, will reflect the light rather than absorb it.

Ok so I’m on the other side of the fence, I think they will look hideous. Get some Gabon baskets filled with a local stone, or no baskets and just a rough built rock wall or do nothing, why do you need to build a vertical wall to hold back something that isn’t moving, can you not leave it as is and just plant it.

We had this also council wanted planning for a fence as on the plan it looked like it was right against a small lane, but in reality the thickness of a pencil line on the council plans was actually nearly two metres. The guy from the council looked and said that adjacent would have actually been right against the highway. I think in effect what what they are concerned about is a fence that could cause visibility issues.

Fold up the 2.2 bit and pick it up, you might find a shorter piece easier to handle, unless there are two of you to support and guide it into position.

I would also be concerned with the flashing ( or lack of) on top of that wall, you will need a trim to come down the face of that wall as when it is rendered water can penetrate the tops of the blocks.

Pay someone to do some 3d renders with different materials on different elevations. Are you locked into materials choice by planners.

You won’t be carrying the 15mm boards anywhere on your own, some 15mm acoustic is 45 kg a sheet, as mr punter said either get a pack lifted up with a forklift or get a pack put upstairs with a crane as they are putting the trusses up. You will I’ll need to plan for this, carrying them through a scaffold maze is a non starter. And dont even think about smaller boards thats just creating more work.

That’s good, I don’t think they are worth the paper they are written on.

While I’m sitting here with a mild dose of man flue I thought I would spread some of my pain around. Enjoy.

I have recently used one, cannot remember manufacturer sitting here, but it did use nearly twice what the manufacturer said, which was a major pain as I had to run around like a lunatic trying to find another tin at 3pm. Fairly happy with the results, but cost in extra material when pricing. I liked the idea that it could be applied in damp conditions as I was doing the job in January.

If you have a mortgage you will need a warranty. By by £3000.

If your building a new house just get the groundwork crew to get it chopped out ready for when you do the foundations, then order a bit more concrete and fill them in at the end of the day.

That picture looks like concrete, why would you repair concrete with tarmac ? Kango out the broken sections then straighten up the reinforcement, don’t cut it out and re concrete. Tamp it to match the original finish.

I think the best information I can give is to stop going to B+Q you can use a cheap emulsion paint, but did they tell you it should be diluted down so it soaks in, otherwise it will sit on the surface and not adhere properly, then it can peel off in big sheets.

you don’t want a telehandler, it’s too big, you need a small forklift call a buggyscopic, not a lot bigger than a 3 tonne dumper, your packs of blocks are not heavy compared to a pack of concrete blocks so no problem with weight. You are still looking at a couple of hundred quid.

@Dreadnaught please look at this mans toilet, I’m afraid it makes yours look rather humble.

Ok so hire a reciprocating saw for brickwork, it looks like a curved blade not a spinning disc, it moves up and down instead of spinning so doesn’t make the dust so you can see where you are cutting.

Not sure what you mean, the cavity should be open and the closer will just slot in, do you just have bits of face brick in the way from the face, or has he fully bricked it up.

I have something completely different that is invaluable, I have an 8x4 bench on wheels, it sits in the middle of the biggest room I use it as a workstation for making up fiddly stuff and also for cutting sheet materials with the circular saw, just drop a sheet on top with a couple of bits of scrap wood underneath and I can just rip through with the saw.

Why not buy another one, keep one on site, and one mobile in the car van, then on site get an 8x4 top that stays on site.