Tom's Barn

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Tom's Barn last won the day on January 5 2020

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  1. Morning everyone, Does anyone have a Steibel Eltron ashp installed? The brand looks good from the online information but I was after some real world experience of their ashp products. Thank you
  2. Thanks Peter. I am meeting him next week so we have this as my first agenda item. Many thanks
  3. I planned my tank on the first floor within feet of three bathrooms. However, it would have been 15m from my ashp. This is not a good thing my ashp installer has informed me. I am therefore re locating both buffer and heating tanks near to the ashp and running a pipe with bronze return to the bathroom location. This will be kept warm, and to save water, by a small grundfos pump which will be triggered by PIR sensors in the bathrooms. Just when I thought I had a great plan it was in an instant by the installer. Lesson - tank location also depends on what method you use to heat your water
  4. Hi All We are installing cast iron radiators in our new house so that they are a feature as well as a heating system. From the insulated slab to the finished floor level (FFL) we have 45mm but could stretch to 48mm if needed. My wife wood like wooden floors (we will go engineered). So far I have come up with a plan for the floor build up but I just wanted to share this to see what the broader BH team felt was the right way to go. So from top to bottom: A. 20 or 21mm engineered oak flooring B. 3mm Elastilon - very good and used in current house - https://www.jfjwoodflooring.co.uk/elastilon-underlay. This provides the structure for the floating and ensures gaps do no open up C. 20mm XPS (300kpa) - this is laid across the entire floor area and because we are installing a wooden floating floor it does not need to be glued to the slab. Some general thoughts and points about why I have chosen this approach: 1. I am always concerned with leaks and they happen in every house so having an XPS underlay to the wooden flooring will ensure I don't have a chipboard flooring layer (one other approach) that is slowly rotting below are feet if we did have a leak 2, The above approach can be fitted quickly, cheaply and it is much lighter than say using a self levelling compound to bring the floor height up. 3. In some PHs, plus on a recent visit to a PH that had a small radiator system, it suffered with something I have read before which is 'warm head, cold feet'. The visit we undertook was to a beautiful PH in the North Cotswolds, arranged through the Green Builing Store, but the first thing my wife said when she came out as just how cold her feet were - we had to take off our shoes becuase the light coloured wood flooring. 4. We have triple glazed windows, a well insulated roof structure plus we are not over glazed 5. In order to provide some thermal consistency (nearly said thermal mass but I know how you guys feel about that term) we will have wood floors throughout, we built the walls from the ISOTEX 380mm blocks, we have a 25mm service cavity on the inside which will be filled with Rockwool RW5 and then on top, a mixture of wood panelling and plasterboard. I know that we need to concern ourselves with the first 100mm in terms of thermal buffering so I almost have that amount before the concrete core of the wall system. 6. The building is not a PH but simply a well insulated building with expected low levels of energy needs EDIT - I forgot to mention that I could put 25mm battens across the floor area and insulate inbetween; wood fixed directly to battens. This would negate the need for B and overall would be 2mm higher. A lot more work on installation but a much more solid final floor covering. Any thoughts on a better way to fill the space currently described as B and C above? Many thanks
  5. Good luck with your search; sorry to hear you have missed out
  6. it also depends on which system you use to fill the concrete. The choices are: 1. One large pump that arrives onsite to pour everty 7 courses - I believe you are going ISOTEX 2. Crane onsite which means you can pour every four courses and removes the need for bracing - small self erecting style. If I were you I would speak with Jamie about the two approaches above and based on the 6 house development they are completing in Marlborough right now, using the crane, it is definitely the way forward. We spent a great deal of time on bracing which could have been saved if we had an onsite crane. Plus with the crane onsite you move other materials around the site as well. Whatever information you get it will only be a best guess; the weather also plays an important role in determining progress
  7. Hi.....sorry no name.... Thank you for the feedback - a labour of love it was during construction and it will be for some time moving forward as we complete the fit out. Bracing is required if you have about 6 to 8 courses to fill. However, with the onsite crane (the new approach) you can pour every 4 courses which means no bracing and less worry. The advantage of woodcrete over the plastic ICF is that it allows air and water to escape - leaving behind a strong concrete mix with no air gaps. Definitely the way to go. If you think a phone call would help to talk things through just let me know. Regards Tom
  8. Hi Bart Thanks for your feedback. We are just outside Cirencester so you can pop over and have a look if you have time. I can provide an overview as to why I chose Isotex. Let me know if you would like meet up. Regards Tom
  9. Ok a quick update.....the cladding is finally complete! We are just working on the first fix and internals now. The isotex is still very much on show internally if you would like to view. T
  10. Hi Dave, they sit on the concrete slab mainly with the outer edge on foam. I hope that helps
  11. If anyone is interested in visiting just let me know. We will be on hold for a while whilst we try and sell our house to fund the remainder of the build. The Isotex blocks are very much on show internally - see attached picture. Also, I have dropped in a picture of a the largest box gutter roof I have ever built. The fibre glass is attached to a 36mm deck of OSB3 with a separating layer of VP400 (to reduce rain noise - separating the layers of board).
  12. Hi All just a quick update on my Isotex build: 1. I gave up on corrugated roofing, after many months of searching for a competent installer. Not many could give me clear information on ventilation, keeping insects out, detailing around windows, ridge ventilation etc. I finally moved to Prefa standing seam from Austria - anthracite grey 7016. 2. I have installed an internal ventilation systems for each building. The link building profile needed to be kept low and I didn't want all the ventilation pipes coming to one place for both buildings. I therefore installed two separate systems. Here is an interesting point (for me anyway). The fitting company suggested both intake and output pipes go through the roof. However, I realised iin a waking moment one night that this would effectively be pulling in very hot air on a sunny day - a dark metal roof becomes very hot indeed! I therefore had the intakes moved and drilled through the ISOTEX. Important - the chap who drilled the 170mm holes took about 5mins to drill each hole. He said that it was easy because of the 10mm stone used within the concrete mix. He said had we put 10mm flint in the mix, for example, he would have walked offsite and not tried to drill. Each hole would have taken over an hour. Therefore, if you are going ISOTEX make sure you choose your mixing stone carefully. If you live within the Newbury area you are more likely to be given flint. 3. The link building roof has been installed. We have installed it with zero fall but each end has a sunken gutter system within the overhang. Furring stips over 11m would not have left any upstand for the south building which has a lower facia board than the north building 4. Isotex is a rough product despite it being planed. I noticed in the wind whilst trying to keep the horrible winter out that it will tear material on corners where it constantly rubs. I wanted to use Tyvek Housewrap for the external fabric because it allows for 4 months of exposure to UV (perfect for Covid 19 situation). However, it is a very thin material and I was concerned that it would tear on corners whilst waiting for my windows. I also like Proctor VP400 Protect - an amazing breather membrane. So I covered the buildings in VP400 first. This is a thick layer of material which is then topped off with Tyvek housewrap. The added layer will also help with the overall thermal efficiency of the building - think of it has adding a t shirt before putting on another layer. 5. Due to the VERY wet winter and bad weather the ISOTEX blocks did get soaked with rain. It has taken quite a bit of time to get them dry. Whilst building try where possible to keep them as dry so that internal work can happen very soon after the roof is on. 6. Windows - Internorm - these are being fitted on Monday of next week. 7. Ventilation of cladding and roof - one of my concerns with a metal roof was ventilation and also for our wooden cladding. Therefore I have designed (not the architect) a system to ventilate the entire structure. The walls are covered in 38mm battens which go up underneath the facia boards and the roof has been designed to provide an inside layer of OSB3 and an outer layer of Russian birch ply. In between these boards we have a 50mm batten. The cladding and roof ventilation plane is linked allowing air from the the base of the building perimeter to come up and out through the ridge. In detail, at the ground level we have insect mesh to allow air in under the cladding; at the gutter level we have a 40mm ventilation gap with insect mesh just underneath the roof edge; at the ridge we have 40mm gap either side of the ridge with insect mesh. The gable ends have the same ground level arrangement but we have stopped the battens short of the gable end detail by 20mm. We will fit the Jamie Hardie top trim insect mesh (right angled aluminium) first before fitting the cladding. This will allow the gable ends to breath in much the same was as the sides. I am sure there are more points to make from the journey thus far but this is we have got to so far. Windows Monday! Tom
  13. BPS - I am using them as well. I will drop in and take a look. Any chance I can pop over and see how you are getting on. Have you gone with the TATA steel standing seam? thanks Russ; I hope to see you soon. You are very welcome to drop in and see the new build - just drop in when you are passing. We are the site (Ewen Barn) on the way out of the village towards Coates - the road that takes you under the old railway. I always thought that with a raised seam / standing steam roof you needed to have a flat deck. I like what you have done because that ensures ventilation all the way through and under parts of the metal. Talk soon Tom
  14. Hi Russ, what metal are you going with? I assume based on the support structure you are creating it is standing seam? Nice edge detail... I have looked online for 25x100 and the sites say 22 x100. Is that what you have? Tom