Tom's Barn

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Tom's Barn last won the day on January 5

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  1. If anyone is interested in visiting just let me know. We will be on hold for a while whilst we try and sell our house to fund the remainder of the build. The Isotex blocks are very much on show internally - see attached picture. Also, I have dropped in a picture of a the largest box gutter roof I have ever built. The fibre glass is attached to a 36mm deck of OSB3 with a separating layer of VP400 (to reduce rain noise - separating the layers of board).
  2. Hi All just a quick update on my Isotex build: 1. I gave up on corrugated roofing, after many months of searching for a competent installer. Not many could give me clear information on ventilation, keeping insects out, detailing around windows, ridge ventilation etc. I finally moved to Prefa standing seam from Austria - anthracite grey 7016. 2. I have installed an internal ventilation systems for each building. The link building profile needed to be kept low and I didn't want all the ventilation pipes coming to one place for both buildings. I therefore installed two separate systems. Here is an interesting point (for me anyway). The fitting company suggested both intake and output pipes go through the roof. However, I realised iin a waking moment one night that this would effectively be pulling in very hot air on a sunny day - a dark metal roof becomes very hot indeed! I therefore had the intakes moved and drilled through the ISOTEX. Important - the chap who drilled the 170mm holes took about 5mins to drill each hole. He said that it was easy because of the 10mm stone used within the concrete mix. He said had we put 10mm flint in the mix, for example, he would have walked offsite and not tried to drill. Each hole would have taken over an hour. Therefore, if you are going ISOTEX make sure you choose your mixing stone carefully. If you live within the Newbury area you are more likely to be given flint. 3. The link building roof has been installed. We have installed it with zero fall but each end has a sunken gutter system within the overhang. Furring stips over 11m would not have left any upstand for the south building which has a lower facia board than the north building 4. Isotex is a rough product despite it being planed. I noticed in the wind whilst trying to keep the horrible winter out that it will tear material on corners where it constantly rubs. I wanted to use Tyvek Housewrap for the external fabric because it allows for 4 months of exposure to UV (perfect for Covid 19 situation). However, it is a very thin material and I was concerned that it would tear on corners whilst waiting for my windows. I also like Proctor VP400 Protect - an amazing breather membrane. So I covered the buildings in VP400 first. This is a thick layer of material which is then topped off with Tyvek housewrap. The added layer will also help with the overall thermal efficiency of the building - think of it has adding a t shirt before putting on another layer. 5. Due to the VERY wet winter and bad weather the ISOTEX blocks did get soaked with rain. It has taken quite a bit of time to get them dry. Whilst building try where possible to keep them as dry so that internal work can happen very soon after the roof is on. 6. Windows - Internorm - these are being fitted on Monday of next week. 7. Ventilation of cladding and roof - one of my concerns with a metal roof was ventilation and also for our wooden cladding. Therefore I have designed (not the architect) a system to ventilate the entire structure. The walls are covered in 38mm battens which go up underneath the facia boards and the roof has been designed to provide an inside layer of OSB3 and an outer layer of Russian birch ply. In between these boards we have a 50mm batten. The cladding and roof ventilation plane is linked allowing air from the the base of the building perimeter to come up and out through the ridge. In detail, at the ground level we have insect mesh to allow air in under the cladding; at the gutter level we have a 40mm ventilation gap with insect mesh just underneath the roof edge; at the ridge we have 40mm gap either side of the ridge with insect mesh. The gable ends have the same ground level arrangement but we have stopped the battens short of the gable end detail by 20mm. We will fit the Jamie Hardie top trim insect mesh (right angled aluminium) first before fitting the cladding. This will allow the gable ends to breath in much the same was as the sides. I am sure there are more points to make from the journey thus far but this is we have got to so far. Windows Monday! Tom
  3. BPS - I am using them as well. I will drop in and take a look. Any chance I can pop over and see how you are getting on. Have you gone with the TATA steel standing seam? thanks Russ; I hope to see you soon. You are very welcome to drop in and see the new build - just drop in when you are passing. We are the site (Ewen Barn) on the way out of the village towards Coates - the road that takes you under the old railway. I always thought that with a raised seam / standing steam roof you needed to have a flat deck. I like what you have done because that ensures ventilation all the way through and under parts of the metal. Talk soon Tom
  4. Hi Russ, what metal are you going with? I assume based on the support structure you are creating it is standing seam? Nice edge detail... I have looked online for 25x100 and the sites say 22 x100. Is that what you have? Tom
  5. Hi Col An interesting approach, thank you for sharing and providing a graphic, it is very clear now. I don't think your tin is coming off any time soon. Question....what screws did you use through your tin? I have been recommended to use timberlok screws but with 50x25mm counter battens they seem a little chunky. Tom
  6. Hi @Visti Thanks for your note and guidance. I have this evening received the notes from the structural engineer re battens and screw sizes. He has confirmed your idea of 20x50mm vertical battens, and the 25x50mm counter battens that hold the sheets and provide a drainage plane below. He has also confirmed the need to penetrate into the rafters when the counter battens cross the verticals which makes perfect sense. The only you mentioned that he has not provided information for is the screws holding the tin. You mention domestic screws and caps. Is there any chance you can send me a link to a type you are referring to. Thanks again for your points. They all serve to confirm the way forward. I did look at the fitting instructions online at the cladco and there are some good points on there. T
  7. Hi Adrian This will be brief because I am doing it on my phone. Because I was using and enginered wall system I thought an engineered raft would work best and it has. We have a very dimensionally accurate building. The other reason is cost certainty. The raft has an exact cost. Trench foundations come with the uncertainty of what the ground provides. I chose izodom because I thought it was more robust than the white stuff everyone else sells. If it is good in Poland Iit is perfect for me. I will look at Instagram but I cannot give you certainty I will sign up. Good luck with you build..... Tom
  8. that is not good; sorry that you have been left with that mess.
  9. thanks Patrick. It has arrived and looks good. I will use that on the first and last row of purlins.
  10. Many thanks for sharing this info. Are you saying you have now closed the ventilation gap within the roof space completely? I talked with proctor recently and they said as long as the roof space was completely filled with rockwool and a vapour membrane was attached inside then there was no need to ventilate due to the 75mm of ventilation above the membrane. Thank you
  11. Thank you. Just ordered some to see what they are like. Much appreciated.
  12. Hi Does anyone have any guidance on fitting corrugated roofs? I am struggling to find a contractor to do the work. Any insights greatly appreciated. We are just getting the rafters in and OSB over the next two weeks. I am going with a 25 x50 vertical batten to hold down the membrane but am struggling to find information re the horizontal batten. 65mm timbertek screws recommended by Thomas profiles. The corrugated profile is 19mm high. Any guidance is appreciated Tom
  13. Hi @Cpd Thanks again for the previous info. Question if I may.....what batten sizes have you used on your roofs?
  14. Hi @Visti I hope the roof installation went well....any lessons learnt? Also I cannot find any guidance re batten size. How did you choose the 38 X 25 battens? Surely in a strong wind the uplift on the screws for the horizontal batten at 25mm is too much. I would have thought a 50mm horizontal batten at the very least. Any guidance appreciated. Do you have a spec sheet for fitting the sheets. I am struggling to find a capable person to fit. I know in the end it will be me that ends up fitting it which I don't really have time. Thanks oh and any photos?