Russell griffiths

I would say then that you are looking at the wrong manufacturers, my windows are have a 125mm wide frame, you won’t find any 2g windows with frames like that. We went 3g and at about 10% uplift on 2g, they are silent and just feel completely different from any other 2g windows I’ve owned.

I have the older all cast aluminium workmate, long before they went pressed steel. Try and find a second hand one and just put a new top on it as they normally are full of drill holes and saw cuts.

i would do it as you have drawn and fit it all dry on a bench and mitre bond it together, then fit in place.

Being that I’m a caveman, can I get standard tv channels from one of the companies that supply things like Netflix and stuff. Do i I have to have a tv aerial? im struggling to think of where to put a tv aerial i really dont want one on my roof, can you get a super version that goes in the loft. Can i I get free view channels down the BT cable that supplies my internet ? oh god more stuff to think about.

best pic I could find quickly.

@PeterTweeter with most frames over here apart from the double stud stuff you will end up having to install extra insulation over the studs for the cold bridges and also to achieve the required u value, so is there much point in trying to save a bit of timber if you need to do this, I can understand trying to remove a stack of 6 studs all together holding up a beam or something.

I think you will find the whole stick building situation nearly non existent in the uk. I stick built my last place but over here most things are built off site in panel form. So the whole California corner stuff just doesn’t come in to play. I think some of our timberframe builders are miles ahead of the yanks, look at the builders over here doing the double stud walls.

Can you raise your height to 200mm if so go eps. Will save you a fortune.

450x450. Lots of groundwork contractors will say go 600 wide. But that’s to allow them to be less accurate with their measurements as the have a wider surface for the brickies to get the walls somewhere like in the middle.

With two layers you can stagger the joins, you can also flip one over to counteract and bends in the sheets. Not being able to get 150mm has probably done you a favour.

I do not have a single screw anchoring my stud walls in place. All held down with a generous tube or two of PU adhesive. I needed to adjust one and dismantled the stud wall, I had to use a crowbar to get the sole plate up, and it actually pulled lumps out of the screed rather than coming unstuck.

Sounds shit to me with a capital S as has been said DO NOT RUN A POWER CABLE THROUGH A PIECE OF MDPE , unless of course you are a complete fool. Run the power cable in an appropriate duct for electric, it is pennies in the grand scheme of things. Nobody will hack through a duct without asking themselves what’s in this, whereas a bit of blue poly I would just hack through it with a mattock and kapow surprised at some of the people above who think this isn’t a silly idea.

If you don’t put a screed on top of the insulation how are you going to get your floor flat, I bet the block n beam floor is far from level or flat, also have you first hand experience of a floating floor. All the ones I have seen if you jump up and down in one corner the telly changes Channel all by itself. I personally would rethink this idea, but obviously that’s my opinion.

You don’t generally hire needles you make them out of as Peter said short bits of rsj or buy some steel box section and cut it to length.

All ours are top hung, due to size and. Weight. I like them, glad we didn’t go tilt n turn

There’s another topic knocking about regarding timber flooring, but it didn’t specifically cover ufh. Can anybody recommend a flooring that is lasting well and has ufh under it.

What sort of prices have you been quoted for the trespa.

How many of you lot who are happy with your floors have UFH under it.

Grab lorry get it gone, unless you smash it into 50mm pieces it is no good under a slab. Ok for a shed base. Or a path, but not the house.

Your drawings don’t mention a vapour control layer, you need to prevent moisture entering the roof structure.

@Grian, I think your problem might be to change your cleaning routine, the word mop needs chucking out and you need to look at cleaning practices and products suitable for the flooring you choose. I laid a floor for a friend and it failed terrible, we had the rep out to try and find what had gone wrong, my mates wife had been cleaning it with a mop and water, splashing it everywhere, unaware that she was meant to use a certain non wet product and a micro fibre duster thing on a pole. Operator error, she thought as it was allowed in kitchens and bathrooms that it was fully waterproof.

All the hanger manufacturers make screws now, just don’t use standard wood screws.

Depends how many you need to put in, I hired a positive placement nailer for a week, about £100 all in but I had a few hundred joist hangers plus triple grips for the roof in total over 2000 nails, so it was a no brainier

If this is your final home then you need to build it right, 150mm frame with frametherm is not decent,this will need pir board on the inside to meet regs. If you build a wider frame you can use cheaper insulation but more of it, any form of pir board is wicked money. Forget pir on the floor and go eps insulation, you will need more of it 200mm, but as it’s new build you just adjust your floor build up now.