Mr Punter

+1 It is fairly pricey but works very well and is long lasting. It is not the quickest to apply but will leave the wall breathable but rainwater will form beads and run off. It goes quite a long way.

I have used the Hardie starter strip. It give the bottom board a kick provides ventilation and insect / rodent barrier. It comes in different sizes according to your batten size. https://www.squaredealupvcshop.co.uk/product/hardieplank-starter-strip-with-ventilation/

The consented scheme needs to be completed before PD rights can be exercised.

I hope this is not the same solicitor who advised you on the purchase? The seller specifically limiting your ability to connect drainage should have been very clearly communicated to you by your lawyer. That is what they get paid for. They have PI insurance for this sort of negligent blunder.

Did you choose HiTherm for the SAP friendly psi values? What insulation are you using? I am considering using some for a 150mm cavity with eps beads. Only a few in brickwork. The rest is rendered and I will use 2 x concrete ones.

I would go with the load table and option 3. I could not view the pdf.

+1 Send your lintel schedule to 2 or 3 suppliers well in advance. It is a big discount market and you can get really stiffed if you need one in a hurry.

You can step brickwork in and out by a fair amount without any structural issues. I have seen chimneys held up by corbelling 350mm. It is not considered be practice but it holds up. 50mm would not cause structural issues. The industry standard tolerances in construction are pretty lax. If the standard is +-30mm it could be 59mm out and still be acceptable. To be structurally unsound it would need to be out by a very large margin. You need to choose your battles here, because if the majority of your complaints can easily be countered you may just lose all of them.

I don't think that SAP is keen on air-to-air.

I enjoyed the previous ones because the results were so bad and it was fun to slag off the architects in their collarless shirts. Last night was disappointing as the architects were not precious, listened to the client and the solution was near to budget. Where is the sport in that?

Space heating in a properly built new house or flat is not tricky or energy hungry. Hot water and solar overheating can be bigger issues. Air tightness can be more significant than insulation.

+1 Don't mess with the VAT people.

You don't need to chop the joist, just shave a bit from the bottom so it is at 45 degrees.

You are going to be a busy boy. I suggest the extra Shredded Wheat is in order.

+1 Get the engineer back. I have done work on existing to engineer spec and had "issues" when removing what was thought to be a non-structural wall. Looks quite dry down there, which is good.

I would have a chat to building control and if push comes to shove chop a 45 degree angle off the bottom corner of the offending joist.

I use an architect who is very good at gaining planning consent. He is not interested in progressing the project any further, unless the clients wants this, as there are others out there who are better and cheaper for this.

I have done some of these a few years back. We were only moving down one band and had a comparable or two so they didn't put up a fight.

Yes. When the bungalow is demolished you can have it removed from the register. Your Council may deem when the new building should be completed, so they may start the new CT before actual completion.

There is a LABC warranty scheme. Still expensive.

Get a couple of other merchants to quote as well. Play one against the other. Free delivery too. And low charge for restocking should you wish to return anything, or you will end up with lots of bits and pieces you will never use (not that I ever have!)

Is the water running off the parapet coping as well? There is not much wall above the window so the problem maybe stems from the roof.

The simplest way to do this may be to obtain planning consent and sell the plot to others on the basis that they complete the project within an agreed time, then use some of the proceeds to do up the bungalow.

Can you remove the trees that are causing an issue BEFORE you do your planning application? In my experience, the willows could cause major issues and would be better off removed.

I don't think the CDM role of principal designer would have anything to do with this.